Indications of lunar behavior, the well-known moon phase indicator chief among them, have always been some of the most beloved of complications in classical watchmaking, the slow rotation of the little disc with double moons on it marking the waxing and waning of the earth’s natural satellite over the 29 1/2 day cycle. But few if anyone in the field has quite the fascination with our moon as does young, yet accomplished independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, who studied watchmaking in both Switzerland and his native country, and was a protege of no less than Kari Voutilainen and complications master Christophe Claret. In time, perhaps inevitably, the talented and restless Sarpaneva would strike out on his own, to forge a creative ideal unique to his distinct vision of independent horology. I remember the first time I beheld one of Sarpaneva’s Korona Moon Phase models around 2008/2009–I was transfixed, perhaps even a little spooked, by his expressively large, and even slightly diabolical moon phase, that last bit being as much over the intense expression on the Man in the Moon’s face (phase?) as the shockingly large size, which went far beyond a mere afterthought like a moon phase indicator typically might be in more classical watches. Yet, I found it engrossing, beautiful, and undeniably unique. That uniqueness has come to define Sarpaneva’s entire output, irrespective of complication (or simplicity, as the case may be), but it’s pretty clear that watches showcasing the moon have become sort of his signature. And with that, we come to the Nocturne, an absolute delight of horological theatre, even if that drama must–by necessity–play out in gradual fashion, just as the real thing does.
Highlighted against the intricate and unmistakable contours and finishes of the 42mm case in a special stainless steel alloy native to Finland, is a dial that strikes you simultaneously with its breathtaking three-dimensional depth, and, rich use of color and texture. An owl gazes intently over a graduated, sparkling body of water over which clouds float, all creating a scene of calm and picturesque beauty as striking as any from a proper Elvish fantasy. Rotating through and over the scene through the passage of the month is the signature Sarpaneva moonface, omniscient and oddly benevolent, yet slightly mischievous and maybe even stern at times, depending upon how your interpret the mouth and eyes. Stars float around it, and a shooting star gradually makes its way across the night sky as the phases progress, this brilliant little interloper eventually covering the Moon’s face completely at the arrival of the New Moon.
According to Sarpaneva, as he has related it in various interviews, the Moon has always been a massive influence, and an actual guiding light in the beautiful yet rugged Finnish landscape, particularly in the harsh winter. We sense that very clearly in this dramatic dial conception, which came about in part from the creative input of Ville Tietäväinen, a fellow Finn and celebrated illustrator and graphic novelist; the latter’s works include “Invisible Hands”, a prize-winning story of existential and fundamental human struggles, among other projects known mainly within Finland. Be that as it may, the struggles of this watch are measured and precise, its functions driven by a Soprod caliber that has been modified as needed for Sarpaneva’s purposes, beats at 28,800 vph, and has a 42 hour reserve at full mainspring tension. While fairly simple, as automatic movements go, the sight through the exhibition caseback has decided charm, with thoughtfully composed details such as an openworked rotor complete with a smiling–and partially luminous–moon-face motif. That said, unlike many watches most celebrated by collectors, the Sarpaneva Nocturne is best enjoyed for its wonderful dial, which comprises no less than six separate components, including a lower plate with 233 individual openings, and of course…the creative and ample application of luminous material to create an otherworldly aspect to a creation that is as much a story of moon and earth, as it is a timekeeper. Yet, with it’s large lance-tipped hands, it still tells the hours and minutes with great clarity by day or night…a point not to be unappreciated in a timepiece so seemingly fantastical.
This is not a fast-paced, frantic watch with a 1/10th thundering chronograph, rapidly turning tourbillon, or some such virtuoso thing; the Nocturne’s functions are slow and measured, barely perceptible yet clearly progressing and advancing the cycles of life. Watches that allow contemplation beyond the essentials have become something I deeply appreciate in the world we inhabit today, and this is a very special example of the breed, rendered with real love of the details, and a sense of how the relationship of earth and moon give us the very life we have to be able to measure time with in the first place. “#Not for everyone” is the motto of Stepan Sarpaneva, and it’s clear that this accomplished Finnish watchmaker will continue to find joy in creating unique mechanical watches that are as far from a corporate committee as you can get. Those who do understand, are already seeking these watches out, and just 30 of each version will be made, at a price of 19,000 Euros each.
