Tag: Rolex

Rolex Deepsea Challenge: Who Can Best The King Of Dive Watches Now?

Posted on by Adam Keith

(There’s no ocean on earth too deep for this Rolex watch, a culmination of the brand’s mastery in water resistant construction)

“As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster”. Or so mob associate Henry Hill was known to have said, in a line that kicked off 1991’s “Goodfellas” in explosively red-hued and violent fashion. In my case, though, what I wanted, was Rolex dive watches. They caught my attention as a young preteen obsessed with mechanical watches, and I couldn’t be taken out in public (translation: typically, a then-thriving American upscale mall) without drooling in front of a family-owned Rolex authorized retailer, an institution that is now sadly getting far more rare, but that…is a topic for another time. The Submariner, Submariner Date, and the storied Sea-Dweller in production then (Ref. 16600), far less commonly seen in the retail case, were on the brain, and I wanted one in the worst of ways. The Sea-Dweller in particular ignited my imagination the most, because it was so utterly more suited for deep water–four times more in fact–than the already very capable Submariner, and its association with COMEX and the rapidly developing deep diving industry made it mythic beyond any proportion. A legend amongst dive watches. It so happened, that due to fortuitous circumstances—and some help from a loved one–that the Sea-Dweller would be my very first Rolex watch in my early 20s. What a time! And not just for how amazing this watch felt to me as a budding watch fanatic who finally achieved “the dream”, but also for the hindsight perspective of a sadly bygone period when Rolex watches were readily available via authorized channels, and, relatively affordable as well.

(Ads like this kept me fascinated with Rolex as a teenager and young adult. They still do, to be honest!)

But, I digress. Rolex and the dive watch are an inseparable association–even though rivals like Omega and Blancpain have innovated just as much, and in some cases more, Blancpain for being the first to innovate the features we know as being integral to what a dive watch is and Omega for offering watches every bit as technically demanding as those from the crown, even if those watches–such as the famous Ploprof–never got the commercial recognition they deserved when they equaled or even outdid their rival Rolex in certain ways. (Click here for a great video on the revolutionary Ploprof, and ultimately, Omega’s disappointing fortunes in their battle with their greatest rival, despite it all.) So, why Rolex? These watches were the epitome of the Oyster Case development that dates back to 1926, and even now, knowing what I do of other brands, there is an almost magical invincibility to the idea of a Rolex dive watch, that no other brand really conjures in quite the same way. Part of that is certainly the technical competency of the product, and equally certainly is the nearly black hole-level pull of Rolex marketing, emblazoned across the pages of National Geographic, Smithsonian, and myriad other popular lifestyle and environmental publications. And of course, there were the most insane examples of specialized Rolex creations, such as the Deep Sea Special, which went all the way down to the bottom of the Marianas trench on Jacques Piccard’s submersible “Trieste” in 1960, itself the ultimate expression of the Rolex Oyster’s capability, as strange and alien as it looked in its quirky, prototypical might. The concept was refined again–greatly so–in 2012, when director James Cameron piloted a craft to the bottom of Challenger Deep in the Pacific, its robotic arm wearing a piece unique stainless steel prototype that clearly very closely inspired the creation of the sensational titanium watch we’re discussing now. Omega followed up with their own ocean-conquering masterpiece in 2019, the gargantuan Ultra Deep Professional, that also headed to the bottom of the Marianas Trench in their own expedition/adventure with Victor Vescovo, a feat that even bested Rolex’s earlier descent with James Cameron by a few meters. Even today, the idea of a watch withstanding the unimaginable pressures at the deepest chasm in the Pacific Ocean is mind-boggling. Without any doubt, both Omega and Rolex have both achieved the ultimate technical feats in mechanical dive watches, but Rolex has again cemented its ultimate reign by offering a commercial version, officially ending the “Deepest Diving Dive Watch You Can Buy” contest. (By contrast, Omega’s obtainable version of the Ultra Deep, introduced earlier in 2022, “only” goes to 6000 meters.) There is quite literally nowhere left to go in the depth contest, and Rolex’s crown is firmly back on, where the ultimate diver is concerned. So what is this Rolex leviathan, the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, all about?

(Two great predecessors from the Abyss: the 1960s Deepsea Special on right, and the experimental Challenge model from 2012)

Think the alreadly formidable Deepsea…but on the craziest dosage of steroids you can imagine. Any semblance of reasonable wearing is out the window with this one, where perhaps…just perhaps…a large-wristed individual of probably notable stature could pull of the already imposing Deepsea as a daily wearer, this one can only be reasonably wielded by a very few supersized humans on the planet. (Like say, Hafthor Julius Björnsson, the late Andre the Giant, or maybe Ronnie Coleman in his prime if we must include someone just a little more diminutive in height, if not sheer physical mass!) With a thickness of 23mm and a lug-to-lug span of 61mm (!) the measurements speak for itself. But be assured, those of less Brobdingnagian physiques are already giving it their best shot, as a quick search on various watch fora shows. And, you know what? More power to them, I say! The new Deepsea Challenge is certainly a conversation piece, and underwater, for those who choose to take this $26,000 (MSRP!) Rolex dive watch along below the waves, the size won’t seem out of place at all, amidst the myriad of other technical gear atop a diving wetsuit. It is after all, the distillation of every Rolex diving advance since the word Submariner first appeared on a dial, so why not indeed? If a Rolex watch were ever made to do a demanding job, this is the one, and while the long-honored idea of Rolex as a mechanical tool watch seems to be deader than the dinosaurs, there’s no doubt the products made by the Geneva powerhouse can still perform the role in spades. That said, it’s clear that the vast majority of Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenges that manage to find their way out of an authorized dealers will be just be for showing off, with nary a body of water in sight. Shame really, but it is what it is.

Thirty six thousand and ninety feet of stated water resistance, with another 25% safety margin of pressure engineered by Rolex, as per all their diving models. Think about that for a moment, and consider the sheer technical feats, to say nothing of exacting manufacturing precision, wrapped up in producing a watch like this: The thickness here, as admirable or abominable as you may find it, serves a very real purpose, that–along with the 9.5 mm thick sapphire crystal, and the pressure defying Ring Lock system first seen on the standard Deepsea model, all working in tandem to stave off the incomprehensible tons of merciless water pressure. The watch is also–very notably–Rolex’s first foray into the use of titanium for the entire construction of the timepiece. The long-serving Ref. 16600 Sea-Dweller 4000 had a helium release valve component in the metal, and the Deepsea offered an innovative case back with titanium at its center for flexibility under extreme water pressure, but that was the extent of it. The new king of Rolex dive watches is full titanium, from the case, through the bracelet. Not content with some lower grade of the material, Rolex uses their own iteration of Grade 5 Ti alloy, and machines it expertly as you might expect, with some interesting polish contrasts that distinguish it from more typical Oyster models, as well as recalling the now-nostalgic chamfers so associated with four and five-digit Rolex sports models. Not only hypoallergenic and nearly impervious to the ravages of saltwater, the titanium construction is a blessed relief from the relatively monstrous weight this veritable hockey puck would have in a typical 904L–excuse me, Oystersteel–variant. And, it somehow seems appropriate for a true Titan of a watch. And yet, despite the Deepsea Challenge’s size, those dimensions are entirely reasonable, even modest, when considering what this watch can withstand. Were it not for the aforementioned Ring Lock technology, which provides ample pressure dispersion between the crystal and the back of the watch, the end result would’ve been much chunkier yet, rather like the 1960s Deep Sea Special. And then there’s the special titanium Oyster bracelet, which with a ratcheting Glidelock system, offers the ultimate adjustment factor to get the brute secured properly, and comfortably. To say that Rolex has certainly learned a thing or two about dive watch technology in their many years of manufacturing would be a supreme understatement!

(A creature engineered for extreme pressures; case, crystal, crown, and back must all do some very heavy lifting!)

I like it. I like it a lot. It’s not an everyday watch and its in no way intended to be. For a lover of Rolex history, and appreciator of their contributions to water resistant watch technology like yours truly, the Ref. 126067 Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge is an object to nerd out over like few others. The price is extreme, even at the retail level–and I shudder to think what secondary market prices will be for those that start ending up there–but given the cost of research and development, as well as the years of testing and evaluation, things sort of make sense and explain the significantly increased ask compared to their already impressive Sea-Dweller Deepsea, and even the (now) almost modest Sea-Dweller 43 and classic Submariner. The fact that Rolex produced this as a non-date watch is for me, another big plus, and a nod to the hardcore enthusiast. The Deepsea Challenge generates an excitement that transcends the watch itself, stimulating our imaginations about exploration, adventure, and the world around us. That, to me, is the Rolex brand I always remembered, and have grown to miss dearly. I’m glad to see a watch like this bringing some of the old magic back, even if modern prices (and the inevitable brand hype) make it unfortunately much more an ownership fantasy than the references of decades past.

Tudor Black Bay Pro: Vibes Of The Great Rolex Ref. 1665 “Freccione” Explorer II, But With Modern Performance. (It’s A Great Value, Too.)

Posted on by Adam Keith
(The Tudor Black Bay Pro, in the several options it can be configured in. As always, the bracelet is the best value option, and you can add straps later)

Long past are the days of Tudor being simply that value-priced, second fiddle sibling to Rolex–not that the brand wasn’t appreciated for its virtues then, and, since my very first so-called real watch was a 79190 Submariner Date, I’ll have to include myself amongst the admirers of Hans Wilsdorf’s “other” brand, which from its inception was intended to offer the Rolex Oyster Perpetual’s essential virtues in a more affordable format. No, these days, Tudor has become a sort of retro-creative laboratory for the Rolex brand, a place where interesting materials, fetching vintage designs recalling historically beloved Oyster models, and a refreshingly honest “tool watch” constructive and aesthetic alliance can still thrive. My own love for Rolexian virtues was forged back in the late 1980s onward, when ADs (family-owned ones in particular) were far more plentiful, stock was ample, and Rolex ads graced nearly every Smithsonian and National Geographic magazine. While those advertisements often showcased precious metal Day-Dates and two-tone Datejusts on opera singers and golfers, they just as frequently had famous explorers, underwater photographers, and other bold human beings the watches of whom certainly bore more than their share of love marks for lives fully lived. Folks like George Schaller, Reinhold Messner, David Doubilet, Dr. Bill Stone, Erling Kagge, and the ill-fated yet daring Steve Fossett, were but a few. That was the Rolex I loved, but one that seems sadly relegated to nostalgic remembrances. For those who do recall (and are lucky enough to have a watch or two bearing the five-point crown), or those who wish they could experience it as they wistfully wait for an AD to grant their wish for a watch some year down the road, Tudor still allows you some of that historic, inclusionary Rolex thrill. With that trip down memory lane shining brightly, we’ll segue into one the best–and most readily attainable–releases for 2022, the Tudor Black Bay Pro. It is, quite simply, the hottest watch Tudor has come out with since the legendary Black Bay 58 burst on the scene four years ago.

(Rugged character, design heritage, and real-world capability. Could one want for more in a pedigreed sports watch at $4,000 these days?)

The first thing that blew me away, was how intensely and immediately this 39mm Tudor recalls the great 1655 Rolex Explorer II—the very first Explorer II of course, known by some as the Freccione, and others as the “Steve McQueen”, never mind that it was a 5512 Submariner that the actor favored, and known to wear. A wacky 1970s combination of shapes and colors, yet still fully carrying the combination of elegance and strength that other Rolex professional models like the GMT-Masters and divers did, the Ref. 1655 Explorer II was a striking statement of form following function–a true spelunkers watch (and marketed as such) with ample splashes of lume, readily discernible hour hands, and a fail proof fixed bezel bearing deeply engraved 24-hour military time indicators. The model would evolve subtly but noticeably through the 1980s and 1990s, starting with the reference 16550, evolving into the long-produced 16570 and ending where we are now with the still attractive but notably bulkier 42mm 226570. Beginning with the highly collectible 16550, the Explorer II would gain the independent hour hand complication of the GMT-Master II, as well as a sapphire crystal to keep up with the times. Yet, that closer alignment and design consolidation with its sibling model in the professional range also heavily diluted much of what was dazzlingly original and quirky about the classic 1665–with the changes, the Explorer II had become, in essence, a more spartan GMT-Master II, with a fixed bezel. While I can certainly appreciate the evolution of the Explorer II range, and acknowledge the technical improvements, I also feel somewhat wistful when seeing the first generation of the model, wishing for a modernized interpretation of the original aesthetic, yet with all the goodies. With the Tudor…you can come closer than ever before to that idea, reliving that sports watch nostalgia, while getting all the performance in a cutting-edge mechanical dual time model that can take all the life adventures you can dish out above, or below, sea level.

(A vintage Rolex ad, showing the Ref. 1655 which clearly inspired the latest Black Bay from Rolex’s sister brand)

The heart of the new Tudor Black Bay Pro is what enables this excellent travel functionality, and a simple unscrewing of the crown and pulling it out to the secondary position enables you to advance the 12-hour hand back or forwards as you need, the date coming safely along for the ride in either direction. Based on a Kenissi caliber base developed by Tudor in conjunction with Breitling, Norqain and Chanel, the MT5652 offers up a pleasing blend of durability and precision just the way many of us tend to value in a sports watch. The large, 4Hz-pulsating balance wheel is supported on a full bridge, much like many Rolex calibers–and is similarly freely sprung–although unlike its illustrious sister brand that features a hairspring in Parachrom alloy with a Breguet overcoil, the Tudor employs a component in hyper-modern silicon. Each MT5652 has earned a chronometer certificate from the COSC, and should offer excellent precision and accuracy. (While admittedly only a sample size of one, a Black Bay 58 I owned for a time in 2018 performed in exemplary fashion, easily staying within less than two seconds gain per day regardless of how active or inactive I was, or what position the watch was rested in.) And, in the manner of other modern Tudor calibers, power reserve is excellent, with a full 70 hours at maximum mainspring tension, meaning that this piece will fit in very well with a several watch rotation, if you so desire.

(Case diameter is a svelte 39mm, although this watch is noticeably thicker than the Explorer II. Gotta love the case bevels, too!)

The dial is compelling too. Not a direct rip off of the Rolex 1655 by any means–nor quite as delightfully quirky, I have to add–it manages to deftly span the gap between tasteful conservatism and period-specific 1970s flamboyance. The snowflake hand has become the design calling card of Tudor, owing to its use in legendary dive models of the brand’s distant past, and that theme continues here…quite well I think. Despite being triple featured on the hour hand, the second hand, and the mustard yellow 24 hour hand, I don’t feel beaten over the head with it, although some may naturally disagree. Critically, as this is a sports watch at its soul, legibility is superb, and Tudor gets some creative points for their application of luminous material; rather than the usual luminova paint, the hour markers are actually raised monobloc plots in a ceramic material, which add dimension and visual interest to the matte, all-business deep charcoal toned dial. Those things, along with the lean, sparingly engraved 24 hour bezel (whose engraved numerals I find more focused and clean than those seen on the current Rolex Explorer II, by the way) create a very appealing essence of function and clear design, with enough retro to please the old guard of the Wilsdorf adventurer’s watch mythos, and the novelty to distinguish itself amongst a competitive field of upper mid-tier luxury watches. And true to Tudor form, the buyer gets choices, from a natty (and very well made) Jacquard nylon strap with a color-coordinated yellow stripe, a rubber and leather hybrid that exudes rugged casualness, and finally, a rivet-style bracelet with a so-called “T-Fit” 8mm on the fly extension system, that keeps the Oyster-inspired design language strong, if perhaps just a touch heavy on the obligatory vintage cues. That subjective critique aside, the matching stainless steel bracelet is a very appealing match to the Pro, and the way I’d order it if I get pushed over the edge. Besides, straps are much easier and more cost effective to source later, as most of us have learned–probably the hard and financially painful way!

But about that multiple watch thing I mentioned before: the toolish charm inherent in the Tudor Black Bay Pro means it could just become that attainable “one watch” companion so many aspiring timepiece owners fantasize about. In the absence of modern Rolex to buy at retail prices, and high horology brands offering watches that might be beautiful and exquisite, but a little too posh to be truly enjoyed to the fullest, the Tudor fills a real void. As has been echoed by others in the hobby, I think it is important to recognize this watch (and other Tudor kin) for its own merits, rather than being a second class citizen to the now-fanatically coveted Rolex product line. While the heritage between the companies is undeniable, and we certainly understand who’s design language influences who, the more attainable products of Tudor are refreshingly honest in their presentation, all while offering truly laudable watchmaking value. It goes without saying that it also has the clout to offer that all-important backup for servicing down the road, a not inconsiderable point which many competitors cannot match. It still amazes me to see how far Tudor has come at defining itself as a brand, especially in the shadow of its sibling. Indeed, Tudor remains, along with modern Omega, as the brand I recommend for new (and returning) watch buyers who want top quality and heritage in a mechanical watch, yet feel alienated by the allocation games and high prices of our current market. I suspect that warm sentiment towards Tudor is shared by many, and it’s something which would surely have pleased the late Hans Wilsdorf himself, who could scarcely imagine the state of the watch industry in 2022, even if he would also hope you stay on that waiting list for whichever Rolex model you secretly desire most. 😉

“Days long past” Or, with a Tudor, are they?

Reflections on the 41mm Rolex Submariner, Keanu Reeves, Generosity, And What Really Makes A Watch Memorable

Posted on by Adam Keith
(Indeed! The engraved back of Jeremy Marinas’s Submariner Date. The other recipients were Li Qiang, Bruce Concepcion, and Dave Camarillo.)

This week, in a typical world of vice, graft, and general societal discombobulae, at least according to the way our media outlets present it, I took a moment of blessed solitude to sift through the goings of the watch universe. In doing so, I was pleased to see a certain story which completely transcended one very recognizable and coveted luxury watch, and struck touchingly into broader issues appreciated by humanity at large. As it turns out, Keanu Reeves had added a horological twist to his well-known generosity and humility in success, by treating the five members of his “John Wick 4” stunt team to a special and very personal gift: individually engraved stainless steel Rolex Submariner Dates, in the revised 41mm version the brand unveiled in 2020. It was his way of thanking and commemorating each of the men involved in helping the John Wick character achieve ultimate realism, and by all accounts, the gesture was received by the recipients in the way you might expect: a lot of joy, a little bit of disbelief, and most certainly, considerable gratitude for the opportunity to experience not just a phenomenal timepiece, but a sense of belonging with an exceptional team of performers engaged in a project larger than each of them. The precious and utterly unexpected gift unified the group in that satisfying moment, and the Rolex watches they all buckled on that day with Mr. Reeves will hopefully connect them in an unspoken, yet profound way for years to come, no matter where their careers and life circumstances may ultimately take them.

By all accounts, Keanu Reeves lives very modestly and humbly, despite his considerable fortune as one of the biggest earners in Hollywood; philanthropy is a passion he has spoken quietly of, although again, never in a way which aggrandizes himself. The same can be said for his generosity to others, which certainly didn’t start with these Submariner watches. One senses perhaps that Keanu the individual probably cares little what type of watch he wears, and if there are any preferences, they are his and his alone to enjoy quietly and discreetly. Yet, the well-circulated image below shows his palpable joy and satisfaction at creating–and sharing in–a communal experience with his team of close associates. It’s safe to say that the watches being sized and put on have gone far beyond being “just another” 126610 Submariner Date…as if such a thing were possible in the current days of never-ending Rolex AD wait lists, and grey market prices of astronomical height.

Many watches could have been chosen, from Rolex or other esteemed brands. But why Rolex, and why the Submariner model specifically, within the diverse Oyster range? Despite its current hype, the Submariner is one of the world’s most honest and steadfast sports watches, remaining true to the design which first saw the light of day in 1953, with only subtle evolution as the decades progressed. For many years, it has seen stalwart service on the wrists of men of action around the world, from those who needed the watch to keep them alive below the waves, to others who simply required a good tool to stay punctual to business commitments. Due to the Submariner’s much more reasonable price then–even accounting for the greater buying power of the dollar–it wasn’t just socialite bigwigs, stars, and magnates who wore them. Indeed, it and other Rolex models were available even through military retail channels, and frequently saw service on the wrists of Marines, soldiers, sailors, and others going in harm’s way. Individuals of this breed, and others like them, genuinely needed and appreciated a watch which was both accurate and tough enough to withstand the elements, and Rolex had established a reputation around those virtues that was all but ironclad; within the range of Oyster models, how could one resist the tough suaveness of the Submariner, which could just about as easily slide beneath a tailored cuff as it could below fatigues or over a wetsuit, the shrieks of sartorial harpies concerning proper dress etiquette be damned. Hell, even the archetypal James Bond, Mr. Sean Connery himself, relied on a Rolex Submariner, as did more than a few other Bonds who followed in the role of 007. If he could wear one with wetsuit or tuxedo alike, well…why can’t we? Few watches have defined versatility like the Rolex Submariner, a true companion for all seasons.

(You’ll scarcely notice the extra millimeter of this reference. It wears like a classic Submariner, and is ready to accompany you through life.)

Rolex’s current iteration, now slightly enlarged to 41mm from the classic 40mm (but well balanced in that increase by a 1mm larger lug width expansion) got our attention in 2020, but the formula’s magic hadn’t changed. This newest Submariner Date which “The John Wick Five” will sport, bore all the sleek charm of its predecessors. The only difference was, now it was materially all but perfect in its shining inky black Cerachrom bezel, sleek, slimmed down lugs, a perfected Glidelock clasp for precise, incremental sizing and, of course…a state-of-the-art Rolex 3235 caliber movement ensconced securely within, offering the latest in Rolex watchmaking technology and performance. Again, as before, the icon of all icons is ready to take on the decades to come, just as the classic four, five, and early six digit models had…and often still do on the wrists of long-wearing owners worldwide.

(“The John Wick Five” celebrating a perfect wrist shot with their new Submariners)

I think we’re getting somewhere here. The Rolex Submariner perfectly reflected the qualities of these top stunt men: tough, capable, utterly reliable under pressure, yet necessarily elegant when need be. No, I don’t think Keanu could have possibly chosen a better watch for his team to commemorate the spirit of John Wick, and while I can’t divine his thought process…I’m quite certain the Submariner wasn’t chosen by accident. Wisdom lived, wisdom shared, wisdom worn. There are a lot of watches out there to buy, sell, and trade, but friendships, life milestones, and close associations? Those are much rarer, often fleeting, and truly unique. To unify both in one such moment is very cool indeed, and made me think about what keeps a watch (or watches) truly irreplaceable. The watch itself is part of it, but unless the piece is a Philippe Dufour, George Daniels, or something similarly rare or unique, there will be others out there like it–and probably more than you’d rather consider. To me, it is the context in which a certain watch came to be on your wrist, and what it symbolizes as an extension of self, that gives it lasting power in a collection…even if that “collection” happens to be a cherished only watch. At the end of the day, it is the experiences and people attached to our watches which make them vessels far beyond an overpriced conglomerate of tiny parts. Intangible experiences of life passing, achievements fulfilled, tragedies worked through and overcome, and dreams yet unrealized…all unified and connected, by the very tangible quality of a beautiful watch that stays joined to our wrists through it all. We should all be so lucky to mark our most precious asset…Time…with something like this. And to that vision of horological philosophy, I give a hearty cheers to Keanu and his team!

Rolex Sky-Dweller: The Most Practical Annual Calendar In The World, And Rolex’s Coolest Modern Watch

Posted on by Adam Keith

Complicated watches can be quite the pain in the ass. Oh sure, they’re beautiful, fascinating, and fun to play with. But the Devil always has his due, and that due here is a greater likelihood of complex mechanisms going out of whack through inadvertent physical activity, or the unscrupulous fiddling by an eager new owner not familiar with the ins and outs of when and how to set or operate various functions safely. Minute repeaters and sonneries are surely at the top of the list, with complex calendar mechanisms close behind—and for those that combine both, God help the owner, for they had best be of delicate touch and meticulous service with their masterpiece(s)! When legendary manufacturer of complicated watches Patek Philippe introduced the annual calendar to the world in their Ref. 5035 back in 1996, we saw a glimpse into a new sort of complication—the practical one that would require less adjustment (and hence room for user error) yet still offer the aficionado something special, as well as useful. Requiring only a single adjustment each year at the end of February, the now-popular annual calendar has seen implementation by a wide variety of luxury watch brands, but it was Rolex—that decidedly practical, not-into-complications manufacturer–who ended up perfecting the annual calendar complication, evolving it into a truly exceptional companion for everyday wear.

Hans Wilsdorf and the titanic luxury brand he created in the early 20th century has always been about creating timeless designs, whose watertight cases house precisely built and tough movements that are supremely well protected against moisture and the elements. A fanatical adherence to this consistent formula, along with exceptional mass manufacturing quality, (as well as absolutely stellar and cogent marketing through the decades) has created a luxury brand without peer in public admiration, even if other companies offer far greater diversity, hand workmanship, and particularly so, mechanical complication–at Rolex, the chronograph and GMT/dual time was as far as it went. So it was with considerable surprise to many of us when Rolex introduced the Sky-Dweller in 2012: here was a watch that gave us everything Rolex was known for, but with an ingenious annual calendar complication in tandem with a GMT mechanism! It was quite the shock, but even more striking was just how intelligently and practically the mechanism was designed to operate. Again, pure Rolex—and love ’em or hate ’em, the result was solid. So solid in fact, that years later, I can’t think of a watch that does what this one does better.

Why is the Sky-Dweller, even now, such an impressive piece of kit? Well, first off, its hermetically sealed Oyster case keeps it as water ready and impervious to life’s vicissitudes as any other modern Rolex Oyster model, all the way down to an official 100 meters (although we know they test all their Oyster Perpetual models to well beyond the stated pressure rating). So yes, you can swim to your hearts content with your Sky-Dweller on. But beyond that, there’s the annual calendar mechanism itself, powered by Rolex’s 9001 Caliber, of course made in-house, like every other caliber in the brand’s lineup. At basic level, the 9001 features all the Rolexian horological goodies, including Paraflex shock absorbers and a Parachrom Blue hairspring for enhanced resistance to magnetism, and is naturally held to the brand’s demanding “Superlative Chronometer” standard of -2/+2 daily deviation. Beyond that, is where thing’s get a lot more interesting: Holding no less than 7 patents, Cal 9001 brings together a fascinating calendar system, dubbed Saros as a reference to a Greek astronomical system, which as Rolex describes it, “has been used since antiquity to designate an approximately 18-year cycle of alignment patterns between the Sun, the Earth and the Moon”. Controlling it is a fluted gold “Ring Command” bezel whose underlying mechanism allows the user to discreetly toggle between the fundamental functions of date and month, local time, or home time–the last being shown on a 24 hour rotating ring. The mechanism is, in essence, no simpler than it should to be sophisticated, yet more complex than it needs to be reliable: the Saros system, for example, has just four gear wheels and two gear ratios beyond that of the proven Rolex calendar system. The most intricate aspect is the ring command mechanism for the rotating bezel, which comprises over 50 parts, and determines the functions you choose to operate–these include a cam and lever system which interacts with the various gear trains driving each function. Most impressively–and what makes this arrangement so ingenious–is that the calendar, home time ring, and independently adjustable 12 hour/local time hand can all be moved forward and backwards at will across the international date line, precluding any chance of a user damaging the mechanism. This is Rolex’s brilliant best, and what’s more, it’s clean and amazingly legible, given all it does: rather than bombarding the viewer with another subdial and pointer hand that would clutter things up, the month is elegantly shown in stealth fashion via a disc which moves discreetly at window cutouts behind the hours to indicate the various months from January (12 o’clock, logically) through December. Very, very cool.

Gone, at least for the time being, are the days in which a person could walk into a Rolex authorized dealer, browse a nice selection of their wares, and walk out with a Rolex watch on their wrist the same day, or, for that matter, buy a gently pre-loved Rolex sports watch from the secondary market at a nice savings from MSRP. So here’s my thought: if only a Rolex will scratch the itch in your collection, and your wallet will see no mercy regardless, might as well get the single watch that represents Rolex’s practical yet elegant watchmaking philosophy best. And that watch, in my opinion, is the versatile and opulent Sky-Dweller, which has only gotten more desirable through the addition of attractive dial, metal combinations, and bracelet/strap choices. In these jaded times, it’s probably the modern Rolex reference that gets my pulse going the most, and it might just make yours do the same. The SkyD is really a watch that can do it all—so long as the aesthetic of a sort of supersized (42mm), notably chunkier Datejust is something you fancy seeing on your wrist.