Tag: dive watch

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa: A Magnificent Diver Instrument And Watch, Even If It Wasn’t The One Many Wanted

Posted on by Adam Keith
(An uncompromising dive tool and superb luxury watch in one, Blancpain’s Tech Gombessa is special and distinctive)

Blancpain has a way with their customer base. The general theme is, they do what they want under the protection of the massive Swatch Group phalanx, and the pandering of their small but passionate customer base and fans be damned. If consumer demand were the prime motivator of Blancpain’s output, we’d have seen a 41-42mm standard production Fifty Fathoms at least half a decade ago, with a plethora of cool variants in tow. Instead, the world gets a handful of tantalizing and all but perfectly attired limited editions that are nearly impossible to obtain at retail and carry significant premiums when available on the secondary market. So close…yet so far! The watches you can readily get, ones which some of us (like me) admittedly love despite it all, represent the gorgeous but sizable classic 45mm Fifty Fathoms, deemed as “the most beautiful dive watch in the world, but too big for most” and the more easily wearable, yet quirky and often misunderstood Bathyscaphe variants which run the same superb caliber in the 43mm variant and suffer from what I’ll playfully call “Excessive Negative Dial Space Syndrome” (ENDS, if you wish). The penny whistles and groans from the forums and Instagram feeds are almost audible at each new Blanpcain release, in the same instant as dreams for the perfect daily wear diver are dashed yet again. Yes, it’s amazing what you can get away with when a multi-billion dollar, family-owned luxury conglomerate has your back.

(THIS is the kind of Blancpain product that most want. Unfortunately, the painfully small limited editions make FF like these a fantasy for most)

Is this really bad, though? Blancpain makes dive watches, which aside from being exceptional examples of classic high horology in every sense, are also some of the most dedicated and purpose-driven tools for that task you will encounter–a strange and seemingly conflicting set of identities in the world of mechanical watches. No, I’m not talking simply making a watch which can go way, way deeper under water: we’ve seen that very recently. No, what I mean in this context, is a dive watch with brains, one that can measure–as a primary or backup to more modern systems–those specific durations of time that those hardcore users need most, lest they fail to return to dry land…alive. Those not sure of the veracity of that statement, need only look back to the extraordinary X Fathoms, which was–and is–possibly the most advanced and ambitious mechanical dive watch ever conceived. This year, while naturally disappointing their clients yet again, Blancpain has created another exceptional tool for modern pushers of underwater boundaries, the aptly named Fifty Fathoms Tech, which is the first dive watch specifically set up to allow for the longer dives that divers can now undertake, the sort of which Laurent Ballesta, a leader in the field of ocean exploration and photography (and happily for Blancpain–a luminary brand partner) does often with his team, as they explore and chart important marine environments, and the creatures they inhabit. Ballesta, who has been known to rely upon the above mentioned X Fathoms in timing the periods underwater in which he does his award-winning work, has now helped the brand to conceive a different Fifty Fathoms model, which–while obviously less complex than the X– is again tailored to specific needs. In a more haute horlogerie kind of way, the Tech Gombessa appeals to me for much the same reason as the Tudor Pelagos FXD–which was conceived with objectives from French naval divers–and like that watch, yet with subtle differences for needs underwater, is very much intended to be a tool for specific work, its lofty price tag notwithstanding.

(The technical demands of long-duration exploratory dives were the driving force behind the Tech Gombessa’s technical features and design)

Let’s discuss the basics, first. The watch movement inside the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is dubbed 13P8…yet astute eyes will grasp quickly that the base caliber is the rugged, refined, and proven 1315 base caliber with 6-position adjustment, impressive 5-day power reserve, and free sprung balance wheel that has for some time now proven its mettle in Fifty Fathoms models such as the 5015 and its slightly less flamboyant Bathyscaphe brethren. The caliber range also has a silicon balance spring now, making these movements champions against magnetic interference. I’m hardly the first to gush over the caliber’s sturdy construction yet beautiful, tasteful decoration (the buttery anglage in particular, the kind of which can only be laid down by hand, is simply sublime) yet the Rolex-like durability and performance under pressure is what keeps this specialized engine a real one, despite luxury touches like the skeletonized 18K gold rotor and the general excellence of every small detail. To reiterate, watchmaking refinement doesn’t necessarily mean….fragility, and the 1315 has proven that the two can in fact, happily coexist. Blancpain has, in this instance, adapted this prodigy to drive a special 3-hour dive time hand, supplementary to the standard 12-hour one, which completes a single trip around the dial in appropriate time. Paired with the unique bezel calibration, we now have a straightforward and instantly legible tracking of dives of up to 3-hours duration–the kind which Laurent Ballesta and his colleagues perform with regularity in their oceanographic adventures. The conical crown at 10 o’clock controls a helium escape valve, a feature which is hyper-specific to certain extreme dive application, but isn’t entirely out of place here given the extreme duration divers that can appreciate the timing capabilities of the Tech Gombessa must endure, and the specialized gas mixtures they must breathe through the lengthy periods they move under water at significant depth. As with saturation divers, recuperation in underwater dwellings may require periods where such gasses are best vented out of the watch via a specialized valve, making it–on this watch–more than just an additional technical boast for serious use with no further qualification.

(Luxury, durability, and proven performance: the 1315 base caliber has been adapted for the 3-hour dive hand here)

The Grade 23 titanium case is large, there’s no denying that point. At 47mm, and just shy of 15mm tall, this Blancpain diver isn’t exactly for the faint wristed—and that’s where a lot of the complaining in the webisphere is coming from (“another giant Blancpain dive watch?? C’mon man!…”) Yet, the case design, reminiscent to me of early Ikepod watches that first surfaced in the 1990s, and sort of space saucer like, has an interesting aesthetic appeal all its own, much like other pieces of specialized diving gear. Besides that, when married to the curved rubber strap that plunges right off the edge of the case at integrated lug attachments, it becomes quite clear that this sea creature will indeed wrap itself very compactly to the wrist. This, in concert with the feathery weight of the titanium, gives the design a lot more utility (and adaptability to myriad wrist profiles) than might otherwise seem to be at first glance, so I’d suggest taking a closer look if the watch tickles your fancy. I feel too, that with the dedicated tool watch ethos that brought this specialized Fifty Fathoms variant to life, the large size just makes sense. While the hoots and jeers of the peanut gallery tell us that the mechanical tool watch is now nothing more than an utter anachronism, you know, “no one” uses them, and luxury dive watches should reflect market realities for the Desk Diver, Blancpain has, nevertheless, done it their way. (And really….just because you don’t, doesn’t mean some other enthusiast, somewhere, might not.) The Fifty Fathoms Tech might be nearly thirty grand, at retail price, but the heads of the stubborn little manufacturer intended it to be the best, mission-specific diver they could, all while giving us the usual Blancpain attention to finishing detail, and watchmaking quality that can only be found at the haute horlogerie level. This is apparent in every aspect of the watch, from the base movement, to the case finishing, the dial detail rendered over a base in nearly “absolute black” finish for exceptional light absorbtion, and the superbly rendered luminous bezel with its glossy sapphire cap. Some may scorn the brand for making an oddball hybrid high luxury hardcore dive tool, and insist that this is why Blancpain remains in comparative obscurity next to its peers as relative to the quality of its watches, but the contrarian in me quite profoundly admires the sassy bastards at Blancpain all the more for it. Maybe someday the magical standard-issue Fifty Fathoms in a 40-42mm size will see the light of day, but I’m honestly pleased with what Blancpain is doing now…but then again, I love the underdog Bathyscaphe and standard 45mm Fifty Fathoms plenty, so I can’t really wish for more, minus my own desire that fellow watch lovers someday find a Blancpain diver they can see donning with pride. Should that day come, I promise you…you will find the Blancpain diver on your wrist something quite special, against anything else on the market.

(A great mechanical backup for specialized divers, and a luxurious mechanical watch all in one. Classic Blancpain recipe!)

There are lots of classic looking dive watches out there, most of them homages to the Two Greats of the 1950s: the groundbreaking Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the eternal Rolex Submariner. Being that Blancpain started the genre we now know and guard so much, I think they have earned the privilege to do as they like. The fact that brand CEO Marc Hayek is a hardcore diver, and actively plays a role in the development of watches like the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is massively cool, and in fact, if it weren’t for his role, the Fifty Fathoms line might never have seen the resurrection it had beyond the tribute model in the “Trilogy” line from the late 1990s. The modern Fifty Fathoms occupies an interesting niche, both a beautiful luxury watch, and a tool for serious use. But what I admire most about the Fifty Fathoms, is that its origin was rooted in real life use, and it has stayed true to that mission, even with the high horology credentials of Blancpain that emerged from the brand’s resurrection in the 1990s onward. The Tech Gombessa is obviously a tool first, and a luxury object next, an idea which is anathema to some, but will appeal to a select few. Will most of these watches see hard use under the waves? Doubtlessly no, but to say that no one will, is rather presumptuous, and those who will will probably find great utility in the Blancpain Tech as a backup instrument. The remaining buyers will enjoy a unique object with superior watchmaking inside it, as well as a purpose-built aesthetic. I appreciate that Blancpain continues to have a purpose-focused approach to building its dive watches, even if those watches happen to be among the most beautifully finished and constructed in the world. Indeed, quite probably the most. Who says you can’t have Beauty and Beast, all in one?

(Superlative lume! Not just a lightshow, the indications are clear and concise, in the manner of a proper instrument)

Rolex Deepsea Challenge: Who Can Best The King Of Dive Watches Now?

Posted on by Adam Keith

(There’s no ocean on earth too deep for this Rolex watch, a culmination of the brand’s mastery in water resistant construction)

“As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster”. Or so mob associate Henry Hill was known to have said, in a line that kicked off 1991’s “Goodfellas” in explosively red-hued and violent fashion. In my case, though, what I wanted, was Rolex dive watches. They caught my attention as a young preteen obsessed with mechanical watches, and I couldn’t be taken out in public (translation: typically, a then-thriving American upscale mall) without drooling in front of a family-owned Rolex authorized retailer, an institution that is now sadly getting far more rare, but that…is a topic for another time. The Submariner, Submariner Date, and the storied Sea-Dweller in production then (Ref. 16600), far less commonly seen in the retail case, were on the brain, and I wanted one in the worst of ways. The Sea-Dweller in particular ignited my imagination the most, because it was so utterly more suited for deep water–four times more in fact–than the already very capable Submariner, and its association with COMEX and the rapidly developing deep diving industry made it mythic beyond any proportion. A legend amongst dive watches. It so happened, that due to fortuitous circumstances—and some help from a loved one–that the Sea-Dweller would be my very first Rolex watch in my early 20s. What a time! And not just for how amazing this watch felt to me as a budding watch fanatic who finally achieved “the dream”, but also for the hindsight perspective of a sadly bygone period when Rolex watches were readily available via authorized channels, and, relatively affordable as well.

(Ads like this kept me fascinated with Rolex as a teenager and young adult. They still do, to be honest!)

But, I digress. Rolex and the dive watch are an inseparable association–even though rivals like Omega and Blancpain have innovated just as much, and in some cases more, Blancpain for being the first to innovate the features we know as being integral to what a dive watch is and Omega for offering watches every bit as technically demanding as those from the crown, even if those watches–such as the famous Ploprof–never got the commercial recognition they deserved when they equaled or even outdid their rival Rolex in certain ways. (Click here for a great video on the revolutionary Ploprof, and ultimately, Omega’s disappointing fortunes in their battle with their greatest rival, despite it all.) So, why Rolex? These watches were the epitome of the Oyster Case development that dates back to 1926, and even now, knowing what I do of other brands, there is an almost magical invincibility to the idea of a Rolex dive watch, that no other brand really conjures in quite the same way. Part of that is certainly the technical competency of the product, and equally certainly is the nearly black hole-level pull of Rolex marketing, emblazoned across the pages of National Geographic, Smithsonian, and myriad other popular lifestyle and environmental publications. And of course, there were the most insane examples of specialized Rolex creations, such as the Deep Sea Special, which went all the way down to the bottom of the Marianas trench on Jacques Piccard’s submersible “Trieste” in 1960, itself the ultimate expression of the Rolex Oyster’s capability, as strange and alien as it looked in its quirky, prototypical might. The concept was refined again–greatly so–in 2012, when director James Cameron piloted a craft to the bottom of Challenger Deep in the Pacific, its robotic arm wearing a piece unique stainless steel prototype that clearly very closely inspired the creation of the sensational titanium watch we’re discussing now. Omega followed up with their own ocean-conquering masterpiece in 2019, the gargantuan Ultra Deep Professional, that also headed to the bottom of the Marianas Trench in their own expedition/adventure with Victor Vescovo, a feat that even bested Rolex’s earlier descent with James Cameron by a few meters. Even today, the idea of a watch withstanding the unimaginable pressures at the deepest chasm in the Pacific Ocean is mind-boggling. Without any doubt, both Omega and Rolex have both achieved the ultimate technical feats in mechanical dive watches, but Rolex has again cemented its ultimate reign by offering a commercial version, officially ending the “Deepest Diving Dive Watch You Can Buy” contest. (By contrast, Omega’s obtainable version of the Ultra Deep, introduced earlier in 2022, “only” goes to 6000 meters.) There is quite literally nowhere left to go in the depth contest, and Rolex’s crown is firmly back on, where the ultimate diver is concerned. So what is this Rolex leviathan, the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, all about?

(Two great predecessors from the Abyss: the 1960s Deepsea Special on right, and the experimental Challenge model from 2012)

Think the alreadly formidable Deepsea…but on the craziest dosage of steroids you can imagine. Any semblance of reasonable wearing is out the window with this one, where perhaps…just perhaps…a large-wristed individual of probably notable stature could pull of the already imposing Deepsea as a daily wearer, this one can only be reasonably wielded by a very few supersized humans on the planet. (Like say, Hafthor Julius Björnsson, the late Andre the Giant, or maybe Ronnie Coleman in his prime if we must include someone just a little more diminutive in height, if not sheer physical mass!) With a thickness of 23mm and a lug-to-lug span of 61mm (!) the measurements speak for itself. But be assured, those of less Brobdingnagian physiques are already giving it their best shot, as a quick search on various watch fora shows. And, you know what? More power to them, I say! The new Deepsea Challenge is certainly a conversation piece, and underwater, for those who choose to take this $26,000 (MSRP!) Rolex dive watch along below the waves, the size won’t seem out of place at all, amidst the myriad of other technical gear atop a diving wetsuit. It is after all, the distillation of every Rolex diving advance since the word Submariner first appeared on a dial, so why not indeed? If a Rolex watch were ever made to do a demanding job, this is the one, and while the long-honored idea of Rolex as a mechanical tool watch seems to be deader than the dinosaurs, there’s no doubt the products made by the Geneva powerhouse can still perform the role in spades. That said, it’s clear that the vast majority of Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenges that manage to find their way out of an authorized dealers will be just be for showing off, with nary a body of water in sight. Shame really, but it is what it is.

Thirty six thousand and ninety feet of stated water resistance, with another 25% safety margin of pressure engineered by Rolex, as per all their diving models. Think about that for a moment, and consider the sheer technical feats, to say nothing of exacting manufacturing precision, wrapped up in producing a watch like this: The thickness here, as admirable or abominable as you may find it, serves a very real purpose, that–along with the 9.5 mm thick sapphire crystal, and the pressure defying Ring Lock system first seen on the standard Deepsea model, all working in tandem to stave off the incomprehensible tons of merciless water pressure. The watch is also–very notably–Rolex’s first foray into the use of titanium for the entire construction of the timepiece. The long-serving Ref. 16600 Sea-Dweller 4000 had a helium release valve component in the metal, and the Deepsea offered an innovative case back with titanium at its center for flexibility under extreme water pressure, but that was the extent of it. The new king of Rolex dive watches is full titanium, from the case, through the bracelet. Not content with some lower grade of the material, Rolex uses their own iteration of Grade 5 Ti alloy, and machines it expertly as you might expect, with some interesting polish contrasts that distinguish it from more typical Oyster models, as well as recalling the now-nostalgic chamfers so associated with four and five-digit Rolex sports models. Not only hypoallergenic and nearly impervious to the ravages of saltwater, the titanium construction is a blessed relief from the relatively monstrous weight this veritable hockey puck would have in a typical 904L–excuse me, Oystersteel–variant. And, it somehow seems appropriate for a true Titan of a watch. And yet, despite the Deepsea Challenge’s size, those dimensions are entirely reasonable, even modest, when considering what this watch can withstand. Were it not for the aforementioned Ring Lock technology, which provides ample pressure dispersion between the crystal and the back of the watch, the end result would’ve been much chunkier yet, rather like the 1960s Deep Sea Special. And then there’s the special titanium Oyster bracelet, which with a ratcheting Glidelock system, offers the ultimate adjustment factor to get the brute secured properly, and comfortably. To say that Rolex has certainly learned a thing or two about dive watch technology in their many years of manufacturing would be a supreme understatement!

(A creature engineered for extreme pressures; case, crystal, crown, and back must all do some very heavy lifting!)

I like it. I like it a lot. It’s not an everyday watch and its in no way intended to be. For a lover of Rolex history, and appreciator of their contributions to water resistant watch technology like yours truly, the Ref. 126067 Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge is an object to nerd out over like few others. The price is extreme, even at the retail level–and I shudder to think what secondary market prices will be for those that start ending up there–but given the cost of research and development, as well as the years of testing and evaluation, things sort of make sense and explain the significantly increased ask compared to their already impressive Sea-Dweller Deepsea, and even the (now) almost modest Sea-Dweller 43 and classic Submariner. The fact that Rolex produced this as a non-date watch is for me, another big plus, and a nod to the hardcore enthusiast. The Deepsea Challenge generates an excitement that transcends the watch itself, stimulating our imaginations about exploration, adventure, and the world around us. That, to me, is the Rolex brand I always remembered, and have grown to miss dearly. I’m glad to see a watch like this bringing some of the old magic back, even if modern prices (and the inevitable brand hype) make it unfortunately much more an ownership fantasy than the references of decades past.