“As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster”. Or so mob associate Henry Hill was known to have said, in a line that kicked off 1991’s “Goodfellas” in explosively red-hued and violent fashion. In my case, though, what I wanted, was Rolex dive watches. They caught my attention as a young preteen obsessed with mechanical watches, and I couldn’t be taken out in public (translation: typically, a then-thriving American upscale mall) without drooling in front of a family-owned Rolex authorized retailer, an institution that is now sadly getting far more rare, but that…is a topic for another time. The Submariner, Submariner Date, and the storied Sea-Dweller in production then (Ref. 16600), far less commonly seen in the retail case, were on the brain, and I wanted one in the worst of ways. The Sea-Dweller in particular ignited my imagination the most, because it was so utterly more suited for deep water–four times more in fact–than the already very capable Submariner, and its association with COMEX and the rapidly developing deep diving industry made it mythic beyond any proportion. A legend amongst dive watches. It so happened, that due to fortuitous circumstances—and some help from a loved one–that the Sea-Dweller would be my very first Rolex watch in my early 20s. What a time! And not just for how amazing this watch felt to me as a budding watch fanatic who finally achieved “the dream”, but also for the hindsight perspective of a sadly bygone period when Rolex watches were readily available via authorized channels, and, relatively affordable as well.
But, I digress. Rolex and the dive watch are an inseparable association–even though rivals like Omega and Blancpain have innovated just as much, and in some cases more, Blancpain for being the first to innovate the features we know as being integral to what a dive watch is and Omega for offering watches every bit as technically demanding as those from the crown, even if those watches–such as the famous Ploprof–never got the commercial recognition they deserved when they equaled or even outdid their rival Rolex in certain ways. (Click here for a great video on the revolutionary Ploprof, and ultimately, Omega’s disappointing fortunes in their battle with their greatest rival, despite it all.) So, why Rolex? These watches were the epitome of the Oyster Case development that dates back to 1926, and even now, knowing what I do of other brands, there is an almost magical invincibility to the idea of a Rolex dive watch, that no other brand really conjures in quite the same way. Part of that is certainly the technical competency of the product, and equally certainly is the nearly black hole-level pull of Rolex marketing, emblazoned across the pages of National Geographic, Smithsonian, and myriad other popular lifestyle and environmental publications. And of course, there were the most insane examples of specialized Rolex creations, such as the Deep Sea Special, which went all the way down to the bottom of the Marianas trench on Jacques Piccard’s submersible “Trieste” in 1960, itself the ultimate expression of the Rolex Oyster’s capability, as strange and alien as it looked in its quirky, prototypical might. The concept was refined again–greatly so–in 2012, when director James Cameron piloted a craft to the bottom of Challenger Deep in the Pacific, its robotic arm wearing a piece unique stainless steel prototype that clearly very closely inspired the creation of the sensational titanium watch we’re discussing now. Omega followed up with their own ocean-conquering masterpiece in 2019, the gargantuan Ultra Deep Professional, that also headed to the bottom of the Marianas Trench in their own expedition/adventure with Victor Vescovo, a feat that even bested Rolex’s earlier descent with James Cameron by a few meters. Even today, the idea of a watch withstanding the unimaginable pressures at the deepest chasm in the Pacific Ocean is mind-boggling. Without any doubt, both Omega and Rolex have both achieved the ultimate technical feats in mechanical dive watches, but Rolex has again cemented its ultimate reign by offering a commercial version, officially ending the “Deepest Diving Dive Watch You Can Buy” contest. (By contrast, Omega’s obtainable version of the Ultra Deep, introduced earlier in 2022, “only” goes to 6000 meters.) There is quite literally nowhere left to go in the depth contest, and Rolex’s crown is firmly back on, where the ultimate diver is concerned. So what is this Rolex leviathan, the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, all about?
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Think the alreadly formidable Deepsea…but on the craziest dosage of steroids you can imagine. Any semblance of reasonable wearing is out the window with this one, where perhaps…just perhaps…a large-wristed individual of probably notable stature could pull of the already imposing Deepsea as a daily wearer, this one can only be reasonably wielded by a very few supersized humans on the planet. (Like say, Hafthor Julius Björnsson, the late Andre the Giant, or maybe Ronnie Coleman in his prime if we must include someone just a little more diminutive in height, if not sheer physical mass!) With a thickness of 23mm and a lug-to-lug span of 61mm (!) the measurements speak for itself. But be assured, those of less Brobdingnagian physiques are already giving it their best shot, as a quick search on various watch fora shows. And, you know what? More power to them, I say! The new Deepsea Challenge is certainly a conversation piece, and underwater, for those who choose to take this $26,000 (MSRP!) Rolex dive watch along below the waves, the size won’t seem out of place at all, amidst the myriad of other technical gear atop a diving wetsuit. It is after all, the distillation of every Rolex diving advance since the word Submariner first appeared on a dial, so why not indeed? If a Rolex watch were ever made to do a demanding job, this is the one, and while the long-honored idea of Rolex as a mechanical tool watch seems to be deader than the dinosaurs, there’s no doubt the products made by the Geneva powerhouse can still perform the role in spades. That said, it’s clear that the vast majority of Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenges that manage to find their way out of an authorized dealers will be just be for showing off, with nary a body of water in sight. Shame really, but it is what it is.
Thirty six thousand and ninety feet of stated water resistance, with another 25% safety margin of pressure engineered by Rolex, as per all their diving models. Think about that for a moment, and consider the sheer technical feats, to say nothing of exacting manufacturing precision, wrapped up in producing a watch like this: The thickness here, as admirable or abominable as you may find it, serves a very real purpose, that–along with the 9.5 mm thick sapphire crystal, and the pressure defying Ring Lock system first seen on the standard Deepsea model, all working in tandem to stave off the incomprehensible tons of merciless water pressure. The watch is also–very notably–Rolex’s first foray into the use of titanium for the entire construction of the timepiece. The long-serving Ref. 16600 Sea-Dweller 4000 had a helium release valve component in the metal, and the Deepsea offered an innovative case back with titanium at its center for flexibility under extreme water pressure, but that was the extent of it. The new king of Rolex dive watches is full titanium, from the case, through the bracelet. Not content with some lower grade of the material, Rolex uses their own iteration of Grade 5 Ti alloy, and machines it expertly as you might expect, with some interesting polish contrasts that distinguish it from more typical Oyster models, as well as recalling the now-nostalgic chamfers so associated with four and five-digit Rolex sports models. Not only hypoallergenic and nearly impervious to the ravages of saltwater, the titanium construction is a blessed relief from the relatively monstrous weight this veritable hockey puck would have in a typical 904L–excuse me, Oystersteel–variant. And, it somehow seems appropriate for a true Titan of a watch. And yet, despite the Deepsea Challenge’s size, those dimensions are entirely reasonable, even modest, when considering what this watch can withstand. Were it not for the aforementioned Ring Lock technology, which provides ample pressure dispersion between the crystal and the back of the watch, the end result would’ve been much chunkier yet, rather like the 1960s Deep Sea Special. And then there’s the special titanium Oyster bracelet, which with a ratcheting Glidelock system, offers the ultimate adjustment factor to get the brute secured properly, and comfortably. To say that Rolex has certainly learned a thing or two about dive watch technology in their many years of manufacturing would be a supreme understatement!
I like it. I like it a lot. It’s not an everyday watch and its in no way intended to be. For a lover of Rolex history, and appreciator of their contributions to water resistant watch technology like yours truly, the Ref. 126067 Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge is an object to nerd out over like few others. The price is extreme, even at the retail level–and I shudder to think what secondary market prices will be for those that start ending up there–but given the cost of research and development, as well as the years of testing and evaluation, things sort of make sense and explain the significantly increased ask compared to their already impressive Sea-Dweller Deepsea, and even the (now) almost modest Sea-Dweller 43 and classic Submariner. The fact that Rolex produced this as a non-date watch is for me, another big plus, and a nod to the hardcore enthusiast. The Deepsea Challenge generates an excitement that transcends the watch itself, stimulating our imaginations about exploration, adventure, and the world around us. That, to me, is the Rolex brand I always remembered, and have grown to miss dearly. I’m glad to see a watch like this bringing some of the old magic back, even if modern prices (and the inevitable brand hype) make it unfortunately much more an ownership fantasy than the references of decades past.
