Long past are the days of Tudor being simply that value-priced, second fiddle sibling to Rolex–not that the brand wasn’t appreciated for its virtues then, and, since my very first so-called real watch was a 79190 Submariner Date, I’ll have to include myself amongst the admirers of Hans Wilsdorf’s “other” brand, which from its inception was intended to offer the Rolex Oyster Perpetual’s essential virtues in a more affordable format. No, these days, Tudor has become a sort of retro-creative laboratory for the Rolex brand, a place where interesting materials, fetching vintage designs recalling historically beloved Oyster models, and a refreshingly honest “tool watch” constructive and aesthetic alliance can still thrive. My own love for Rolexian virtues was forged back in the late 1980s onward, when ADs (family-owned ones in particular) were far more plentiful, stock was ample, and Rolex ads graced nearly every Smithsonian and National Geographic magazine. While those advertisements often showcased precious metal Day-Dates and two-tone Datejusts on opera singers and golfers, they just as frequently had famous explorers, underwater photographers, and other bold human beings the watches of whom certainly bore more than their share of love marks for lives fully lived. Folks like George Schaller, Reinhold Messner, David Doubilet, Dr. Bill Stone, Erling Kagge, and the ill-fated yet daring Steve Fossett, were but a few. That was the Rolex I loved, but one that seems sadly relegated to nostalgic remembrances. For those who do recall (and are lucky enough to have a watch or two bearing the five-point crown), or those who wish they could experience it as they wistfully wait for an AD to grant their wish for a watch some year down the road, Tudor still allows you some of that historic, inclusionary Rolex thrill. With that trip down memory lane shining brightly, we’ll segue into one the best–and most readily attainable–releases for 2022, the Tudor Black Bay Pro. It is, quite simply, the hottest watch Tudor has come out with since the legendary Black Bay 58 burst on the scene four years ago.
The first thing that blew me away, was how intensely and immediately this 39mm Tudor recalls the great 1655 Rolex Explorer II—the very first Explorer II of course, known by some as the Freccione, and others as the “Steve McQueen”, never mind that it was a 5512 Submariner that the actor favored, and known to wear. A wacky 1970s combination of shapes and colors, yet still fully carrying the combination of elegance and strength that other Rolex professional models like the GMT-Masters and divers did, the Ref. 1655 Explorer II was a striking statement of form following function–a true spelunkers watch (and marketed as such) with ample splashes of lume, readily discernible hour hands, and a fail proof fixed bezel bearing deeply engraved 24-hour military time indicators. The model would evolve subtly but noticeably through the 1980s and 1990s, starting with the reference 16550, evolving into the long-produced 16570 and ending where we are now with the still attractive but notably bulkier 42mm 226570. Beginning with the highly collectible 16550, the Explorer II would gain the independent hour hand complication of the GMT-Master II, as well as a sapphire crystal to keep up with the times. Yet, that closer alignment and design consolidation with its sibling model in the professional range also heavily diluted much of what was dazzlingly original and quirky about the classic 1665–with the changes, the Explorer II had become, in essence, a more spartan GMT-Master II, with a fixed bezel. While I can certainly appreciate the evolution of the Explorer II range, and acknowledge the technical improvements, I also feel somewhat wistful when seeing the first generation of the model, wishing for a modernized interpretation of the original aesthetic, yet with all the goodies. With the Tudor…you can come closer than ever before to that idea, reliving that sports watch nostalgia, while getting all the performance in a cutting-edge mechanical dual time model that can take all the life adventures you can dish out above, or below, sea level.
The heart of the new Tudor Black Bay Pro is what enables this excellent travel functionality, and a simple unscrewing of the crown and pulling it out to the secondary position enables you to advance the 12-hour hand back or forwards as you need, the date coming safely along for the ride in either direction. Based on a Kenissi caliber base developed by Tudor in conjunction with Breitling, Norqain and Chanel, the MT5652 offers up a pleasing blend of durability and precision just the way many of us tend to value in a sports watch. The large, 4Hz-pulsating balance wheel is supported on a full bridge, much like many Rolex calibers–and is similarly freely sprung–although unlike its illustrious sister brand that features a hairspring in Parachrom alloy with a Breguet overcoil, the Tudor employs a component in hyper-modern silicon. Each MT5652 has earned a chronometer certificate from the COSC, and should offer excellent precision and accuracy. (While admittedly only a sample size of one, a Black Bay 58 I owned for a time in 2018 performed in exemplary fashion, easily staying within less than two seconds gain per day regardless of how active or inactive I was, or what position the watch was rested in.) And, in the manner of other modern Tudor calibers, power reserve is excellent, with a full 70 hours at maximum mainspring tension, meaning that this piece will fit in very well with a several watch rotation, if you so desire.
The dial is compelling too. Not a direct rip off of the Rolex 1655 by any means–nor quite as delightfully quirky, I have to add–it manages to deftly span the gap between tasteful conservatism and period-specific 1970s flamboyance. The snowflake hand has become the design calling card of Tudor, owing to its use in legendary dive models of the brand’s distant past, and that theme continues here…quite well I think. Despite being triple featured on the hour hand, the second hand, and the mustard yellow 24 hour hand, I don’t feel beaten over the head with it, although some may naturally disagree. Critically, as this is a sports watch at its soul, legibility is superb, and Tudor gets some creative points for their application of luminous material; rather than the usual luminova paint, the hour markers are actually raised monobloc plots in a ceramic material, which add dimension and visual interest to the matte, all-business deep charcoal toned dial. Those things, along with the lean, sparingly engraved 24 hour bezel (whose engraved numerals I find more focused and clean than those seen on the current Rolex Explorer II, by the way) create a very appealing essence of function and clear design, with enough retro to please the old guard of the Wilsdorf adventurer’s watch mythos, and the novelty to distinguish itself amongst a competitive field of upper mid-tier luxury watches. And true to Tudor form, the buyer gets choices, from a natty (and very well made) Jacquard nylon strap with a color-coordinated yellow stripe, a rubber and leather hybrid that exudes rugged casualness, and finally, a rivet-style bracelet with a so-called “T-Fit” 8mm on the fly extension system, that keeps the Oyster-inspired design language strong, if perhaps just a touch heavy on the obligatory vintage cues. That subjective critique aside, the matching stainless steel bracelet is a very appealing match to the Pro, and the way I’d order it if I get pushed over the edge. Besides, straps are much easier and more cost effective to source later, as most of us have learned–probably the hard and financially painful way!
But about that multiple watch thing I mentioned before: the toolish charm inherent in the Tudor Black Bay Pro means it could just become that attainable “one watch” companion so many aspiring timepiece owners fantasize about. In the absence of modern Rolex to buy at retail prices, and high horology brands offering watches that might be beautiful and exquisite, but a little too posh to be truly enjoyed to the fullest, the Tudor fills a real void. As has been echoed by others in the hobby, I think it is important to recognize this watch (and other Tudor kin) for its own merits, rather than being a second class citizen to the now-fanatically coveted Rolex product line. While the heritage between the companies is undeniable, and we certainly understand who’s design language influences who, the more attainable products of Tudor are refreshingly honest in their presentation, all while offering truly laudable watchmaking value. It goes without saying that it also has the clout to offer that all-important backup for servicing down the road, a not inconsiderable point which many competitors cannot match. It still amazes me to see how far Tudor has come at defining itself as a brand, especially in the shadow of its sibling. Indeed, Tudor remains, along with modern Omega, as the brand I recommend for new (and returning) watch buyers who want top quality and heritage in a mechanical watch, yet feel alienated by the allocation games and high prices of our current market. I suspect that warm sentiment towards Tudor is shared by many, and it’s something which would surely have pleased the late Hans Wilsdorf himself, who could scarcely imagine the state of the watch industry in 2022, even if he would also hope you stay on that waiting list for whichever Rolex model you secretly desire most. 😉
