Tag: Tudor

Tudor Pelagos 39: An All In One “Best Hits” Dive Watch That Tantalizes And Frustrates

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A splash of red is a little touch, but has huge gravitas, especially within the confines of dive watches in the Rolex universe)

Wow, it’s been over a month since my last post! Time sure does fly when you’re embroiled in the busybody machinations of a move, and all the sundry re-organizing that accompanies it, but such is how things go, as nearly anyone who’s been there a time or four can begrudgingly attest. Now that I’m in new and tidier quarters, Dear Readers, it’s time to get back to our favorite idiosyncratic hobby. And while there are many watches I could blather on about to dust off the keyboard, I think the proverbial crosshairs will settle on some low hanging horological fruit–the new and blazingly white hot Tudor Pelagos 39, Reference M25407N-0001. A titillating mashup that combines beloved design cues from both vintage Tudor and it’s big brother Rolex, as well as appealing, practical modern materials, and near-perfection in the realm of universal sports watch proportion, the Pelagos 39 is a new superstar of luxury divers that ticks so many boxes–and that’s even before considering the shockingly reasonable price tag. Indeed, one might wonder what out there can possibly challenge it as the watch to beat in its segment.

(It might be marketed as a lifestyle watch, but the Pelagos 39 is as capable as any Tudor Diver. Style points are just extra!)

Nothing is perfect of course. But the Tudor Pelagos 39 comes shockingly close, at least in the beloved realm of sports watches, and the dive watch genre particularly. I’ve stated before, and I’m far from the first to make the point, that watches in the 38-40mm range occupy a rare happy medium that satisfies arguments for large and bold, as well as smaller and more classic, watches with equal aplomb. At 39mm, the Tudor Pelagos can be worn beautifully on daintier wrists at six inches in below, and behemoths over eight inches, a feat smaller or larger timepieces can’t really pull off to the same degree, its feathery lightness from the soft gray, hypoallergenic Grade 2 Titanium making it almost an afterthought of effortlessness. The dial, blessedly free of a date display to mar the classic symmetry that makes us all sigh a little, recalls classic plexiglass-adorned 5512 and 5513 Rolex Submariners. At the same time though, it adds new spice of its own with Tudor’s three-dimensional block luminous plots, which incidentally are matched in brilliance by the fully luminous bezel insert, a real feat of pyrotechnics when the lights go low on your Pelagos 39. And we can’t forget that alluring “Pelagos” in crimson, a nod to famous references made by Rolex in the 1960s and 1970s, such as the wildly coveted “Double Red” Sea-Dwellers and the “Red Submariner” variants of the 1680 Submariner Date. The bezel and crown and both crisply and usefully knurled, the former extending usefully past the case edge, giving just the slightest amplification to the 39mm case diameter (making it wear more like a 40 or perhaps 41mm watch) and assuring operational ease no matter how slippery the hands turning it may be; the large winding crown now far more recalls the design and look of it’s famous Rolex counterparts than previous editions of Tudor divers, and with the backing of Big Green (Rolex) behind it, you can be certain that water most certainly will not pass its many protective gaskets…at least assuming the owner attends to servicing at even the most modest intervals. And man do those pointed crown guards look good, providing both plenty of protection to the winding crown, and recalling the profile of some of the rarest 1950s and 60s treasures of Rolex and Tudor alike. Yet at the end of the day, the modern Tudor concept remains potent, chiefly through the signature Snowflake hands and seconds hand lume pips. It looks the business, yet keeps tool watch functionality undiminished. In keeping with that theme, the all brushed case and bracelet flow together lithely, just as you’d expect from a hardcore, titanium dive watch bearing the redoubtable Tudor shield, now with no faux rivets to spoil the party. It seemed that Tudor heeded the laments of its faithful fans, who’d been rather unhappy for some time about these sorts of overwrought vintage design elements. And Tudor even went a step further to rectify those sins of the recent past by throwing in a complimentary, very well designed rubber strap with the Pelagos 39, as if to sweeten the deal, and show these buyers and enthusiasts that versatility and value are the way forward.

(Low-key, lightweight, and impervious to corrosion, titanium construction defines the Tudor Pelagos 39)

Less harmonious perhaps is the modest sunburst effect on the dial and the sheen of the subtly striated ceramic bezel, and that brings us to our first points of discord. Would a (*sniff*) “real tool watch” have these crass, glamorous cues? Does this seem in fitting with the Pelagos design ethic that brought forth such technically brutish beauties like the original Pelagos 500M, to say nothing of the purpose-built Pelagos FXD, with it’s unique strap lugs and unflappable connection to the hardcore combat swimmers of the French Marine Nationale-an outfit who still relies upon that watch’s capabilities to this day? Is this new addition to this distinguished company–the upstart Pelagos 39–conceived to be a dive watch that might be a fashionable tag-along…or a fashion item first that just happens to be a kickass tool that any diver would be happy to tote as a backup? Tudor’s marketing angle suggests the latter, and while that’s just marketing–not the essence of the product itself–it really does sort of affect how buyers might be swayed by the watch. Ah, but the general luxury owner and the true enthusiast are zebras of very different stripes, aren’t they? Needless to say, it is us (the watch geeks) that seem to be less unsure of the combination offered us, even if we recognize that the result is, like a multi-platinum song we hear far too often, damn catchy to say the least, even great…despite being a well-calculated commercial juggernaut. But Rolex and its more modestly priced sibling brand have not achieved the success they enjoy by being blind to the larger public, so should we be surprised? This is indeed a watch created to sell supremely well and increase Tudor market share. At the same time, there is nothing cheesy or inauthentic; it is quality through and through, and a watch worthy of admiration beyond the hashtags of a fawning consumer base. As I result, I suspect that many aficionados who might now feel aloof to this Prom King of dive watches, might just be tempted to pick one up when pre-owned examples begin to circulate at prices too tempting to pass up, and more are seen in the wild. I mean, just consider what you get…

(Much has been made about the sunburst dial, but it really only comes alive in the light…still, can’t a tool watch be pretty too? I think it can!)

I see the Tudor Pelagos 39 for exactly what it is: a ridiculously well-balanced and attractive diver with a useful and entirely appropriate, but not necessarily overpowering, amount of water resistance. On that issue, 200 meters is more than enough for the vast majority of serious dive usage, and while helium valves might excite the dive watch tech-heads, the fact is, beyond the hyper specialized world of saturation divers, the presence of one of these little gas release valves means just another potential vulnerability in the case, a tiny hole that might fail when the chips are down. So, the lack of that specific feature might actually make the Pelagos 39 a better tool for most, be said buyer be a dedicated diver, swimmer, or an active person who happens to be around aquatic environments of any kind, and in fact, the aforementioned Pelagos FXD is similarly non-equipped for exactly the same reason. The MT5402 movement inside the Pelagos 39 is of the same COSC-certified dependable Kenissi/Tudor family tree that powers the Black Bay 58, and most other modern Tudors. In short, the full balance bridge, silicon escapement, and 70-hour power reserve means the movement within is exceedingly well matched to the task at hand, and offers quality of the highest practical level, mechanically speaking, minus any decorative or finishing excess. And what of the bracelet? In addition to the lightweight and corrosion resistant titanium material that means featherweight comfort for just about anyone, the Pelagos 39 offers a brilliantly engineered “T-Fit” clasp extension system that really leaves you wanting for little (where slick on-the-fly fine and gross adjustments are concerned) even when directly compared to the rightly adored Rolex Glidelock unit found on the far more expensive Rolex Submariner; if for some reason you don’t like said bracelet, then swap it out for the very nicely designed rubber strap with titanium buckle (and clever wetsuit extender piece!) that comes along at no additional surcharge. Great looks? Check. True dive and all-round sports watch capability? Check. Brand heritage? In spades. So, what exactly is the problem? Perception. By that, I mean that had the Pelagos 39 been introduced in a campaign showing professional divers moving about in dimly lit water, signalling to one another whilst glancing purposefully at the brightly lumed bezels of their 39s, rather than models lounging in the pool on a set, this watch would have come up nothing but raves amongst the cognoscenti…well, at least for those who can accept an exceptional all-rounder. As it stands, Tudor’s newest Pelagos entry somehow appears too slickly packaged, too commercially coiffed, like a superstar athlete such as Tom Brady, or chart-topping songs by one of several Butt Rock bands over the years that everyone claims to hate, but has probably hummed–or perhaps even sung along with–more than a few times, at least when no one else was around, because y’know…the lyrics and riffs were in fact, just that catchy. Only here, the salability of the thing doesn’t diminish its excellence.

(On male or female wrists of many dimensions, this 39mm diver will be a handsome, versatile companion)

And therein lies the watch purist’s conundrum. This is a very capable dive tool that just happens to be a ravishingly good looking wristwatch on top of it, and fully ready to be the companion for anything a wearer might desire…even if those wearing habits are far more poolside (or river side, or snowy mountain side even) than on the slimy slop inside a diving boat or bell. That this watch can take on the hardcore adventure duties with ease is just frosting on the cake, but Rolex/Tudor know you (the watch nerd) know that. They also know that the general luxury buyer who desires image and lifestyle above all else is the prime force that drives their revenue, and if a few watch idiot savants want to come along, well…so be it. Unlike some, I accept that my proclivities are not what drives growth in the industry, but I’ll take my victories when I can. And, when compared with the indignity of admitting you’ve hummed a Nickelback song, there’s really no need to save any face if you return from the authorized dealer with one of these buckled on. It might not be the most hardcore Tudor diver ever designed, or laden with the edgiest personality, nor a replacement for Rolex’s all-important icon (the Submariner and its kin), but the Pelagos 39 does everything a great everyday watch needs to do, while looking superb in the process, and can accompany you to more elegant places after you conquer the wilds atop or below the waves. Come to think of it, that comprehensive talent would make the Pelagos 39 just about the very archetype of the wristwatch ideal envisioned by Rolex (and not long after, Tudor) founder, Hans Wilsdorf, back when the Oyster case was but a gleam in his mind’s eye. The clincher? All of this goodness comes at an asking price of just $4,400. And with that, there’s nothing more I can add other than saying, “go on…treat yourself“. Stop being the contrarian elitist, and quietly succumb to the worthy charms of a timepiece whose popularity will be unstoppable, and understandably so; be it an addition to a watch collection, or a first and only watch for the aspirational watch lover, the Tudor Pelagos 39 is a winner already poised to be a contemporary classic.

(The rubber strap would be a cool addition to buy…wonder what it costs? Oh wait: it comes with every watch standard! Bravo, Tudor.)

Tudor Black Bay Pro: Vibes Of The Great Rolex Ref. 1665 “Freccione” Explorer II, But With Modern Performance. (It’s A Great Value, Too.)

Posted on by Adam Keith
(The Tudor Black Bay Pro, in the several options it can be configured in. As always, the bracelet is the best value option, and you can add straps later)

Long past are the days of Tudor being simply that value-priced, second fiddle sibling to Rolex–not that the brand wasn’t appreciated for its virtues then, and, since my very first so-called real watch was a 79190 Submariner Date, I’ll have to include myself amongst the admirers of Hans Wilsdorf’s “other” brand, which from its inception was intended to offer the Rolex Oyster Perpetual’s essential virtues in a more affordable format. No, these days, Tudor has become a sort of retro-creative laboratory for the Rolex brand, a place where interesting materials, fetching vintage designs recalling historically beloved Oyster models, and a refreshingly honest “tool watch” constructive and aesthetic alliance can still thrive. My own love for Rolexian virtues was forged back in the late 1980s onward, when ADs (family-owned ones in particular) were far more plentiful, stock was ample, and Rolex ads graced nearly every Smithsonian and National Geographic magazine. While those advertisements often showcased precious metal Day-Dates and two-tone Datejusts on opera singers and golfers, they just as frequently had famous explorers, underwater photographers, and other bold human beings the watches of whom certainly bore more than their share of love marks for lives fully lived. Folks like George Schaller, Reinhold Messner, David Doubilet, Dr. Bill Stone, Erling Kagge, and the ill-fated yet daring Steve Fossett, were but a few. That was the Rolex I loved, but one that seems sadly relegated to nostalgic remembrances. For those who do recall (and are lucky enough to have a watch or two bearing the five-point crown), or those who wish they could experience it as they wistfully wait for an AD to grant their wish for a watch some year down the road, Tudor still allows you some of that historic, inclusionary Rolex thrill. With that trip down memory lane shining brightly, we’ll segue into one the best–and most readily attainable–releases for 2022, the Tudor Black Bay Pro. It is, quite simply, the hottest watch Tudor has come out with since the legendary Black Bay 58 burst on the scene four years ago.

(Rugged character, design heritage, and real-world capability. Could one want for more in a pedigreed sports watch at $4,000 these days?)

The first thing that blew me away, was how intensely and immediately this 39mm Tudor recalls the great 1655 Rolex Explorer II—the very first Explorer II of course, known by some as the Freccione, and others as the “Steve McQueen”, never mind that it was a 5512 Submariner that the actor favored, and known to wear. A wacky 1970s combination of shapes and colors, yet still fully carrying the combination of elegance and strength that other Rolex professional models like the GMT-Masters and divers did, the Ref. 1655 Explorer II was a striking statement of form following function–a true spelunkers watch (and marketed as such) with ample splashes of lume, readily discernible hour hands, and a fail proof fixed bezel bearing deeply engraved 24-hour military time indicators. The model would evolve subtly but noticeably through the 1980s and 1990s, starting with the reference 16550, evolving into the long-produced 16570 and ending where we are now with the still attractive but notably bulkier 42mm 226570. Beginning with the highly collectible 16550, the Explorer II would gain the independent hour hand complication of the GMT-Master II, as well as a sapphire crystal to keep up with the times. Yet, that closer alignment and design consolidation with its sibling model in the professional range also heavily diluted much of what was dazzlingly original and quirky about the classic 1665–with the changes, the Explorer II had become, in essence, a more spartan GMT-Master II, with a fixed bezel. While I can certainly appreciate the evolution of the Explorer II range, and acknowledge the technical improvements, I also feel somewhat wistful when seeing the first generation of the model, wishing for a modernized interpretation of the original aesthetic, yet with all the goodies. With the Tudor…you can come closer than ever before to that idea, reliving that sports watch nostalgia, while getting all the performance in a cutting-edge mechanical dual time model that can take all the life adventures you can dish out above, or below, sea level.

(A vintage Rolex ad, showing the Ref. 1655 which clearly inspired the latest Black Bay from Rolex’s sister brand)

The heart of the new Tudor Black Bay Pro is what enables this excellent travel functionality, and a simple unscrewing of the crown and pulling it out to the secondary position enables you to advance the 12-hour hand back or forwards as you need, the date coming safely along for the ride in either direction. Based on a Kenissi caliber base developed by Tudor in conjunction with Breitling, Norqain and Chanel, the MT5652 offers up a pleasing blend of durability and precision just the way many of us tend to value in a sports watch. The large, 4Hz-pulsating balance wheel is supported on a full bridge, much like many Rolex calibers–and is similarly freely sprung–although unlike its illustrious sister brand that features a hairspring in Parachrom alloy with a Breguet overcoil, the Tudor employs a component in hyper-modern silicon. Each MT5652 has earned a chronometer certificate from the COSC, and should offer excellent precision and accuracy. (While admittedly only a sample size of one, a Black Bay 58 I owned for a time in 2018 performed in exemplary fashion, easily staying within less than two seconds gain per day regardless of how active or inactive I was, or what position the watch was rested in.) And, in the manner of other modern Tudor calibers, power reserve is excellent, with a full 70 hours at maximum mainspring tension, meaning that this piece will fit in very well with a several watch rotation, if you so desire.

(Case diameter is a svelte 39mm, although this watch is noticeably thicker than the Explorer II. Gotta love the case bevels, too!)

The dial is compelling too. Not a direct rip off of the Rolex 1655 by any means–nor quite as delightfully quirky, I have to add–it manages to deftly span the gap between tasteful conservatism and period-specific 1970s flamboyance. The snowflake hand has become the design calling card of Tudor, owing to its use in legendary dive models of the brand’s distant past, and that theme continues here…quite well I think. Despite being triple featured on the hour hand, the second hand, and the mustard yellow 24 hour hand, I don’t feel beaten over the head with it, although some may naturally disagree. Critically, as this is a sports watch at its soul, legibility is superb, and Tudor gets some creative points for their application of luminous material; rather than the usual luminova paint, the hour markers are actually raised monobloc plots in a ceramic material, which add dimension and visual interest to the matte, all-business deep charcoal toned dial. Those things, along with the lean, sparingly engraved 24 hour bezel (whose engraved numerals I find more focused and clean than those seen on the current Rolex Explorer II, by the way) create a very appealing essence of function and clear design, with enough retro to please the old guard of the Wilsdorf adventurer’s watch mythos, and the novelty to distinguish itself amongst a competitive field of upper mid-tier luxury watches. And true to Tudor form, the buyer gets choices, from a natty (and very well made) Jacquard nylon strap with a color-coordinated yellow stripe, a rubber and leather hybrid that exudes rugged casualness, and finally, a rivet-style bracelet with a so-called “T-Fit” 8mm on the fly extension system, that keeps the Oyster-inspired design language strong, if perhaps just a touch heavy on the obligatory vintage cues. That subjective critique aside, the matching stainless steel bracelet is a very appealing match to the Pro, and the way I’d order it if I get pushed over the edge. Besides, straps are much easier and more cost effective to source later, as most of us have learned–probably the hard and financially painful way!

But about that multiple watch thing I mentioned before: the toolish charm inherent in the Tudor Black Bay Pro means it could just become that attainable “one watch” companion so many aspiring timepiece owners fantasize about. In the absence of modern Rolex to buy at retail prices, and high horology brands offering watches that might be beautiful and exquisite, but a little too posh to be truly enjoyed to the fullest, the Tudor fills a real void. As has been echoed by others in the hobby, I think it is important to recognize this watch (and other Tudor kin) for its own merits, rather than being a second class citizen to the now-fanatically coveted Rolex product line. While the heritage between the companies is undeniable, and we certainly understand who’s design language influences who, the more attainable products of Tudor are refreshingly honest in their presentation, all while offering truly laudable watchmaking value. It goes without saying that it also has the clout to offer that all-important backup for servicing down the road, a not inconsiderable point which many competitors cannot match. It still amazes me to see how far Tudor has come at defining itself as a brand, especially in the shadow of its sibling. Indeed, Tudor remains, along with modern Omega, as the brand I recommend for new (and returning) watch buyers who want top quality and heritage in a mechanical watch, yet feel alienated by the allocation games and high prices of our current market. I suspect that warm sentiment towards Tudor is shared by many, and it’s something which would surely have pleased the late Hans Wilsdorf himself, who could scarcely imagine the state of the watch industry in 2022, even if he would also hope you stay on that waiting list for whichever Rolex model you secretly desire most. 😉

“Days long past” Or, with a Tudor, are they?

Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale: A Military Diver’s Tool With Interesting Features And A Flavor All Its Own

Posted on by Adam Keith

As a counterpoint to big brother Rolex, Tudor holds the banner for those who appreciate styling cues of the bygone vintage references produced by the five point crown, pricing that is still a relative value for a normal person who desires one badly enough, and designs that recall the classic toolwatch era rather than the modern jewelwatch era where a prestigious mechanical watch–however capable–is more about creating followers on social media, than saving your life atop a mountain, or beneath the waves. So it was with considerable interest to many of us this week when Tudor unveiled this watch–the Ref. 25707B Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale in a satin-finished 42mm titanium case. Not your average dive watch in any way, this is a purpose-built tool that calls to mind Tudor’s very serious credentials with a well-known military dive unit. It delivers a no-nonsense aesthetics, with superb and highly functional construction in a way that may not be for everyone, but may well attain cult status with tool watch fans and those with a particularly keen appreciation for mechanical watches as lifesaving instruments.

As a long time fetishist of a classic mechanical tool watches, the Pelagos FXD resonated strongly with me at first glance. Indications, first and foremost, are sparkling clear and bold–this is not a watch that you will ever glance at and have any doubt about exactly what time is displayed, in any condition. And given the heritage of this watch, that’s really a given. Dating back to shortly after the Rolex Submariner (and the closely related, if more value priced, Tudor Submariner) hit the market in the 1950s, these highly water resistant and functional watches with rotating time-lapse bezels made quite a splash with the French Navy and their well-trained frogmen. Eventually, Tudor would create specific models expressly for the Marine Nationale, featuring distinctive features such as the now-signature Tudor “Snowflake” hands for maximal legibility, and specially welded-in springbars to preclude any chance of the watch parting company with its wearer. The casebacks of these watches were engraved with an MN signature, as well as the year of introduction, for example, “MN74” or “MN80”. In a similar fashion, this new Tudor is made to meet the updated demands of the Marine Nationale, and like its forebears, the caseback is engraved MN21, appropriately enough, along with the insignia of the organization who commissioned it, and the technical details of the Tudor movement encased beneath it.

(Only one-piece straps allowed!)

Delving further into the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale, it’s very clear this is a watch designed with the brutally necessary in mind, with those things contradicting this left out…with the possible exception of the typical and rather iconic Rolex/Tudor “marketing novel” on the dial! (Well, at least the “Rotor Self-Winding” bit is left off) As a purist’s piece, this Tudor Pelagos variant thankfully omits a date display, keeping the dial beautifully symmetrical and free of any unnecessary functional distractions. It also aids in keeping the watch quite slender, at just 12.7mm, meaning this will be a very comfortable, easy to wear piece that won’t flop around, especially when used in conjunction with any good one-piece strap, such as either of the ones that Tudor includes with each watch. And speaking of that, do note that only one piece straps can work with the Pelagos FXD: in a very cool touch, the lugs are a one piece loop of thoughtfully-beveled titanium, that is integral with the case itself—a very modern take on the welded strap bars concept of vintage models. I love the look of these lugs, as they distinguish this watch from almost anything else out there, the one piece metal loops tacitly growling “Whatever you’ve got..bring it on!” (The only thing I can think of with a similarly bombproof strap attachment is the insanely water resistant Omega Ultra Deep, another uncompromising tool watch if ever there was one!)

With its purposeful entirely matte finished surfaces, and rich blue dial, this new Tudor has no dress watch pretense in it–and as such, should be one of the ultimate watches for anyone who rejoices in trying out various NATO and ZULU straps, of which the wisely chosen 22mm spacing will give quite the selection from any number of excellent suppliers. It’s also worth pointing out that this watch, unlike the original Pelagos, has neither a particularly boast-worthy depth rating, nor a helium valve; the conservative 200m-rated construction is more than adequate for what the Marine Nationale combat swimmers require, and a helium valve has no value for their missions either, being just one additional hole in the case for water ingress. Again, pure functionality reigns: as much as necessary where required, but no more, and specifications that are adapted to specific, real world applications.

(Gotta love those pointed, satin-brushed crown guards! Focused functionality is present everywhere with this tool watch. Note too, how closely the watch sits to the wrist, with the integrated lugs pulling the strap tightly to the wearer.)

And speaking of that, the bezel has to be both admired, and discussed. The first thing that struck me was the raspy, fine-toothed knurling–almost reminiscent of the points on a wheel or pinion! Just looking at it, you simply have no doubts that moving this unusual time lapse system will be effortless with even the bulkiest of gloves wrapped around your briny, frozen mitts. Why unusual? Well, this bezel and its literally backward graduations compared to a more typical dive bezel, as well as its bi-directional functionality (a contradiction to the well-established ISO 6425 standard) are meant to time the very specific underwater movements that each of the French naval dive teams must perform in their line of work. Utilizing a compass, the team moves in a straight line at relatively shallow depth for a determined exact period of time, which the countdown bezel perfectly enables them to track; once the minute hand hits the luminous bezel pip, the divers change course, and the bezels are again reset to the minute hand to begin the sequence anew. Because the combat swimmers aren’t ascending and descending like recreational divers (who have to track decompression stops, etc), and must frequently adjust their timing sequences while moving in their lines, the bi-directional countdown bezel is the perfect measurement gauge. That said, that same easy to twist functionality will doubtless be very useful above the waves, and for timing all manner of mundane things most of us must attend to on a daily basis here on terra firma. And the glow, oh the glow! This is definitely a watch that will delight the lover of lume, even if you’re just charging it up for the sheer fun of it.

Naturally, an in-house Manufacture Tudor movement can be found behind the screwed-in, engraved stainless steel caseback. Essentially a larger diameter version of the MT5601 found in the Black Bay lineup, the MT5602 is of course an officially certified Swiss chronometer, and carries the expected high-tech goodies that make a movement resilient in the modern era. At the heart of the caliber is a silicon hairspring for optimum magnetism resistance, and a bridge-mounted balance wheel with variable inertia screws for precise adjustment, as well as the ability to hold that fine adjustment once set. Its bidirectional rotor smoothy feeds the mainspring barrel, and when fully wound, the mechanism will run a goodly 70 hours before coming to a halt. Having worn a Black Bay 58 for a time, I can attest that these Tudor calibers are certainly capable of superb precision, and uphold the role of a precise, reliable workhorse with aplomb–just like you’d expect from any product coming from the Rolex complex. What’s also undeniable, is the excellent value proposition found in this particular watch. Due to its slightly simpler movement, lack of a bracelet, and focused minimalism, the Pelagos FXD will come in at an MSRP of USD$3,900, a surprisingly reasonable number that undercuts the standard Pelagos by a small amount, and like other Tudor offerings, gives a lot of attainability to watch fans across the spectrum. While this one probably won’t be as broadly appealing as some of the Black Bay divers and perhaps even the standard date-equipped Pelagos, I suspect it’ll be a resounding fan favorite of dive watch collectors, tool watch lovers, and aficionados of specially tailored historical equipment with deeper connections to performance under real pressure.

(Robust, reliable, and precise: the MT5602 caliber)