Wow, it’s been over a month since my last post! Time sure does fly when you’re embroiled in the busybody machinations of a move, and all the sundry re-organizing that accompanies it, but such is how things go, as nearly anyone who’s been there a time or four can begrudgingly attest. Now that I’m in new and tidier quarters, Dear Readers, it’s time to get back to our favorite idiosyncratic hobby. And while there are many watches I could blather on about to dust off the keyboard, I think the proverbial crosshairs will settle on some low hanging horological fruit–the new and blazingly white hot Tudor Pelagos 39, Reference M25407N-0001. A titillating mashup that combines beloved design cues from both vintage Tudor and it’s big brother Rolex, as well as appealing, practical modern materials, and near-perfection in the realm of universal sports watch proportion, the Pelagos 39 is a new superstar of luxury divers that ticks so many boxes–and that’s even before considering the shockingly reasonable price tag. Indeed, one might wonder what out there can possibly challenge it as the watch to beat in its segment.
Nothing is perfect of course. But the Tudor Pelagos 39 comes shockingly close, at least in the beloved realm of sports watches, and the dive watch genre particularly. I’ve stated before, and I’m far from the first to make the point, that watches in the 38-40mm range occupy a rare happy medium that satisfies arguments for large and bold, as well as smaller and more classic, watches with equal aplomb. At 39mm, the Tudor Pelagos can be worn beautifully on daintier wrists at six inches in below, and behemoths over eight inches, a feat smaller or larger timepieces can’t really pull off to the same degree, its feathery lightness from the soft gray, hypoallergenic Grade 2 Titanium making it almost an afterthought of effortlessness. The dial, blessedly free of a date display to mar the classic symmetry that makes us all sigh a little, recalls classic plexiglass-adorned 5512 and 5513 Rolex Submariners. At the same time though, it adds new spice of its own with Tudor’s three-dimensional block luminous plots, which incidentally are matched in brilliance by the fully luminous bezel insert, a real feat of pyrotechnics when the lights go low on your Pelagos 39. And we can’t forget that alluring “Pelagos” in crimson, a nod to famous references made by Rolex in the 1960s and 1970s, such as the wildly coveted “Double Red” Sea-Dwellers and the “Red Submariner” variants of the 1680 Submariner Date. The bezel and crown and both crisply and usefully knurled, the former extending usefully past the case edge, giving just the slightest amplification to the 39mm case diameter (making it wear more like a 40 or perhaps 41mm watch) and assuring operational ease no matter how slippery the hands turning it may be; the large winding crown now far more recalls the design and look of it’s famous Rolex counterparts than previous editions of Tudor divers, and with the backing of Big Green (Rolex) behind it, you can be certain that water most certainly will not pass its many protective gaskets…at least assuming the owner attends to servicing at even the most modest intervals. And man do those pointed crown guards look good, providing both plenty of protection to the winding crown, and recalling the profile of some of the rarest 1950s and 60s treasures of Rolex and Tudor alike. Yet at the end of the day, the modern Tudor concept remains potent, chiefly through the signature Snowflake hands and seconds hand lume pips. It looks the business, yet keeps tool watch functionality undiminished. In keeping with that theme, the all brushed case and bracelet flow together lithely, just as you’d expect from a hardcore, titanium dive watch bearing the redoubtable Tudor shield, now with no faux rivets to spoil the party. It seemed that Tudor heeded the laments of its faithful fans, who’d been rather unhappy for some time about these sorts of overwrought vintage design elements. And Tudor even went a step further to rectify those sins of the recent past by throwing in a complimentary, very well designed rubber strap with the Pelagos 39, as if to sweeten the deal, and show these buyers and enthusiasts that versatility and value are the way forward.
Less harmonious perhaps is the modest sunburst effect on the dial and the sheen of the subtly striated ceramic bezel, and that brings us to our first points of discord. Would a (*sniff*) “real tool watch” have these crass, glamorous cues? Does this seem in fitting with the Pelagos design ethic that brought forth such technically brutish beauties like the original Pelagos 500M, to say nothing of the purpose-built Pelagos FXD, with it’s unique strap lugs and unflappable connection to the hardcore combat swimmers of the French Marine Nationale-an outfit who still relies upon that watch’s capabilities to this day? Is this new addition to this distinguished company–the upstart Pelagos 39–conceived to be a dive watch that might be a fashionable tag-along…or a fashion item first that just happens to be a kickass tool that any diver would be happy to tote as a backup? Tudor’s marketing angle suggests the latter, and while that’s just marketing–not the essence of the product itself–it really does sort of affect how buyers might be swayed by the watch. Ah, but the general luxury owner and the true enthusiast are zebras of very different stripes, aren’t they? Needless to say, it is us (the watch geeks) that seem to be less unsure of the combination offered us, even if we recognize that the result is, like a multi-platinum song we hear far too often, damn catchy to say the least, even great…despite being a well-calculated commercial juggernaut. But Rolex and its more modestly priced sibling brand have not achieved the success they enjoy by being blind to the larger public, so should we be surprised? This is indeed a watch created to sell supremely well and increase Tudor market share. At the same time, there is nothing cheesy or inauthentic; it is quality through and through, and a watch worthy of admiration beyond the hashtags of a fawning consumer base. As I result, I suspect that many aficionados who might now feel aloof to this Prom King of dive watches, might just be tempted to pick one up when pre-owned examples begin to circulate at prices too tempting to pass up, and more are seen in the wild. I mean, just consider what you get…
I see the Tudor Pelagos 39 for exactly what it is: a ridiculously well-balanced and attractive diver with a useful and entirely appropriate, but not necessarily overpowering, amount of water resistance. On that issue, 200 meters is more than enough for the vast majority of serious dive usage, and while helium valves might excite the dive watch tech-heads, the fact is, beyond the hyper specialized world of saturation divers, the presence of one of these little gas release valves means just another potential vulnerability in the case, a tiny hole that might fail when the chips are down. So, the lack of that specific feature might actually make the Pelagos 39 a better tool for most, be said buyer be a dedicated diver, swimmer, or an active person who happens to be around aquatic environments of any kind, and in fact, the aforementioned Pelagos FXD is similarly non-equipped for exactly the same reason. The MT5402 movement inside the Pelagos 39 is of the same COSC-certified dependable Kenissi/Tudor family tree that powers the Black Bay 58, and most other modern Tudors. In short, the full balance bridge, silicon escapement, and 70-hour power reserve means the movement within is exceedingly well matched to the task at hand, and offers quality of the highest practical level, mechanically speaking, minus any decorative or finishing excess. And what of the bracelet? In addition to the lightweight and corrosion resistant titanium material that means featherweight comfort for just about anyone, the Pelagos 39 offers a brilliantly engineered “T-Fit” clasp extension system that really leaves you wanting for little (where slick on-the-fly fine and gross adjustments are concerned) even when directly compared to the rightly adored Rolex Glidelock unit found on the far more expensive Rolex Submariner; if for some reason you don’t like said bracelet, then swap it out for the very nicely designed rubber strap with titanium buckle (and clever wetsuit extender piece!) that comes along at no additional surcharge. Great looks? Check. True dive and all-round sports watch capability? Check. Brand heritage? In spades. So, what exactly is the problem? Perception. By that, I mean that had the Pelagos 39 been introduced in a campaign showing professional divers moving about in dimly lit water, signalling to one another whilst glancing purposefully at the brightly lumed bezels of their 39s, rather than models lounging in the pool on a set, this watch would have come up nothing but raves amongst the cognoscenti…well, at least for those who can accept an exceptional all-rounder. As it stands, Tudor’s newest Pelagos entry somehow appears too slickly packaged, too commercially coiffed, like a superstar athlete such as Tom Brady, or chart-topping songs by one of several Butt Rock bands over the years that everyone claims to hate, but has probably hummed–or perhaps even sung along with–more than a few times, at least when no one else was around, because y’know…the lyrics and riffs were in fact, just that catchy. Only here, the salability of the thing doesn’t diminish its excellence.
And therein lies the watch purist’s conundrum. This is a very capable dive tool that just happens to be a ravishingly good looking wristwatch on top of it, and fully ready to be the companion for anything a wearer might desire…even if those wearing habits are far more poolside (or river side, or snowy mountain side even) than on the slimy slop inside a diving boat or bell. That this watch can take on the hardcore adventure duties with ease is just frosting on the cake, but Rolex/Tudor know you (the watch nerd) know that. They also know that the general luxury buyer who desires image and lifestyle above all else is the prime force that drives their revenue, and if a few watch idiot savants want to come along, well…so be it. Unlike some, I accept that my proclivities are not what drives growth in the industry, but I’ll take my victories when I can. And, when compared with the indignity of admitting you’ve hummed a Nickelback song, there’s really no need to save any face if you return from the authorized dealer with one of these buckled on. It might not be the most hardcore Tudor diver ever designed, or laden with the edgiest personality, nor a replacement for Rolex’s all-important icon (the Submariner and its kin), but the Pelagos 39 does everything a great everyday watch needs to do, while looking superb in the process, and can accompany you to more elegant places after you conquer the wilds atop or below the waves. Come to think of it, that comprehensive talent would make the Pelagos 39 just about the very archetype of the wristwatch ideal envisioned by Rolex (and not long after, Tudor) founder, Hans Wilsdorf, back when the Oyster case was but a gleam in his mind’s eye. The clincher? All of this goodness comes at an asking price of just $4,400. And with that, there’s nothing more I can add other than saying, “go on…treat yourself“. Stop being the contrarian elitist, and quietly succumb to the worthy charms of a timepiece whose popularity will be unstoppable, and understandably so; be it an addition to a watch collection, or a first and only watch for the aspirational watch lover, the Tudor Pelagos 39 is a winner already poised to be a contemporary classic.
