Patek Philippe put on quite the impressive showing at Watches and Wonders this year, with some fantastic new references to enrich its distinguished catalog. The watch press has expended the fair measure of proverbial ink for good reason, and I’ll join the fray with my thoughts over one of the most lauded, the 5326G-001 Dual Time Annual Calendar. One of the most versatile and useful complicated watches the house has produced in years, it’s the sort of ticking treasure that a cynical horology geek can appreciate most after loving and losing many watches…largely in pursuit of that elusive grail that can accompany one no matter the occasion, yet embody the highest standards of craftsmanship. Refined yet pleasantly capable of casual wear thanks to its design nuances and material contrasts, the 5326G unifies an impressive mechanism with day to day practicality. The overall result is a watch that is deeply prestigious in the best way of the mythic house of Patek Philippe, yet totally wearable on a day to day basis, with a discreet and outwardly humble mien. It’s also an important watch because it represents an evolution of a Patek Philippe innovation–the annual calendar, a clever and well-conceived mechanism requiring a manual calendar correction solely at the start of March. It was Patek, after all, who brought the very first such complication to market back in 1996, offering watch lovers a somewhat more financially reachable–and, easier to live with from a servicing perspective–alternative to its exquisite perpetual calendar offerings. Of course, at just over $75,000 USD this is an eye-wateringly expensive bauble, as are most complicated Patek Philippes. But is it still a good value? As such odd anachronisms as finely crafted mechanical watches go from a brand as sought after as this, I’d say emphatically “yes”, however grotesque that may sound at purely face value. (If all else fails when you contemplate PP pricing vs availability, a quick look at various Nautilus valuations will make the innovative 5326G look like a comparative bargain!) But nevertheless, crass discussions about blue book numbers aren’t the point here, and the watch itself transcends those deftly with its charm and intelligence.
Vibes of the legendary Ref. 3448 “Padellone”–one of Patek’s greatest vintage perpetual calendars–are strong with this one, particularly through the strongly set off, attached lugs. This is a white gold case with character, and a strong one at that, but rich with many refined details, from the distinct angular strap horns, to the broad polished surfaces, particularly in the deliciously broad bezel that appeals to me in much the same way as the smooth bezels on the Rolex Explorer do. It’s an elegant and refined look, yet not overdone with bling. That…you’ll find on the case flanks, but tastefully so, where Patek’s trademark “Clous de Paris” hobnail lurks in a glorious 5-row high stack. These tiny, sharply defined diamonds of polished 18K gold reflect light play brilliantly, yet because of their location on the sides of the watch, are much more readily known to the wearer, than an observer from afar. Still, for the lucky one who has one of these buckled on, the complex contrasts create texture and intrigue and provide a delightful dichotomy against the comparative brute strength of the unusual and surprisingly sporty dial. At 41mm in diameter, the Ref. 5326 Annual Calendar is not a restrained dress Patek of old. Still, the diameter is appropriate to let the indications stretch their hands, so to speak, and the reasonably slim 11.7mm thickness means it’ll do no less ably in more formal environs.
The unusual granular dial is sure to divide people: Traditionalists of Patek Philippe may well feel it strangely rough and atypical of the classic and notably formal Patek Philippe opaline designs, while younger or more adventurous watch fans are sure to be refreshed by the interesting texture, and exotic vintage-inspired tonalities of burnt brown and ecru. That same sense of versatility and elegant sportiness is given further wings from the presence of impressive luminosity when the lights go down, courtesy of ample superluminova filling the white gold hands and Arabic hour plots. As you may have guessed, I’m squarely in the “fan camp”, finding the look of this model a welcome departure from the hyper-conservative Patek Philippe expectation, yet one that sacrifices none of the lasting aesthetic appeal a watch of this pedigree should have. Despite the unusual (but tasteful) dial, thanks to the overall design and intricate quality of the casework, the 5326G offers everything a Patek dress watch can muster. To reiterate my point at the start, this is one of those deeply memorable high horology pieces that has the rare combination of qualities that make it appropriate–and desirable–pretty much all the time, with the possible exception of aquatic adventure, where the 30m water resistance falls short of the requisite security most sensible buyers would be comfortable with. But beyond that constructive limitation, where couldn’t one love and enjoy the 5326G’s combination of rich materials, intricate textures, and inviting warm tones? And that’s even before considering the impressive mechanism that resides within, and what it offers, both technically and aesthetically.
A sapphire back is expected, and the view it delivers of the 31-260 (PS QA LU FUS 24H) caliber does not disappoint. Visually, the mechanism invokes the famous 240 microrotor caliber, but offers more to see than that stalwart, with classical Swiss separated “finger bridges” for the gear train exposing more of the inner secrets of power delivery. Deliciously broad Cotes de Geneve patterns give a tacit statement of the hand-finishing expertise involved; the anglage applied to the edges of the rhodium-plated bridges, while narrow, and not as deeply rounded as some competitors, is nonetheless attractive, and the baseplate sparkles with multiple sizes of perlage, a texture once applied to assist any errant dust from reaching the mechanism, but in an era of vastly better case sealing, becomes simply a charming thing to behold. The rotor, complete with the Calatrava cross and circular Geneva waves, is wrought from platinum–a material choice that is as notable for its winding efficiency, as much as any added prestige. The famous freely-sprung Gyromax balance is present, as expected, and should preserve the precision of the exacting 6-position adjustments the Patek Philippe watchmakers have given it, as it beats away at a modern 4Hz pulse. So, it’s clear that the 31-260 is a very nicely finished and constructed high horology movement, as you’d expect from this famous manufacture, yet, the devil is in the details of its 409 components, which unite to power an annual calendar as well as a backwards and forwards adjustable dual time display with day/night indication. Such was the challenge, that no less than eight patents define what lies behind the alluring, finely pebbled charcoal dial.
The ultimate achievement of this movement, I think, is in its ability to convey the most useful supplementary information most of us would value, all while presenting a pleasing sense of serenity and simplicity. More and more in the frenzied hustle and bustle of the 21st century, I ask myself, does glancing down at (whichever) unnecessary mechanical watch happens to be on my wrist, add to…or detract from…my sense of calm and momentary presence? Can it transport me, as if by magic, to a place of order and harmony…even if only for a moment? This watch, as with so many classic Patek Philippe calendar watches of yesteryear, could pass that test with the most brilliant of flying colors! Despite telling us the day and month at the top of the dial, the phases of the moon inside the sub seconds dial at six, and the status of day/night indication in two time zones at once in two discreet and diminutive circular apertures, calm reigns in this impressively sophisticated complicated watch. Yet, and even better, it does this while retaining ease of operation. While the month and day/date are adjusted via classical caseband pushers (of which there are three) most of the hardest used functions, such as advancing the local hour hand in increments back or forwards, can be ideally operated via the crown, as a proper tool watch should. Did I just say “tool watch”?! Seems discordant where a fine Patek Philippe is concerned, but to a frequent world traveler or international professional, the 5326G certainly offers pleasing functionality fully equal to any more pedestrian options. And, unlike the sacrilege of using a priceless Kamakura-period katana to efficiently carve your turkey, or delimb an overgrown small tree, the team at Patek Philippe fully blesses your full-service use of this beautiful watch! They’ve clearly put a lot of thought into the well-heeled connoisseur who would use and cherish this rare but handy horological companion: just one example of this is the mechanism to drive the date change, now propelled directly by the local hour wheel, and significantly faster than any annual calendar reference previously offered. It assures that your calendar isn’t left too far behind (or ahead) as you switch the independently settable hour hand into a new time zone, a rather important detail. Yet, when you are relaxing in your own hemisphere, free from the hectic considerations of the business world, the skeletonized syringe hand representing home can remain discreetly tucked away beneath its primary white gold twin, returning us to the harmonious bliss hinted at earlier. Yet, OCD fanatics (and chronometry nerds) who delight in testing the precision of their watches against a reference time, will also appreciate that this innovative Patek Philippe movement also offers hacking seconds, for precise setting. A further nicety that speaks to the considerable refinements of the caliber is a reduction wheel that disconnects the auto-wind system during any time the piece is manually wound, saving just a little more wear and tear. Thoughtful, indeed, and clearly a watch designed by, and for, top notch watchmakers–another assurance that the heirloom status always expected of a Patek Philippe remains untarnished into the 21st century.
At the end of the day, the Reference 5326G is one of the all-around neatest watches to emerge from Patek Philippe in some time. To my way of thinking, it pays ample respect to the classic greatness of the fruitful era under Henri and Philippe Stern, while showing that heir to the throne Thierry has firmly grasped the scepter of rule to advance his own distinct vision of the house’s values. The fact that Patek is delivering these with two straps as standard procedure–the tan nubuck calf leather seen in the header, along with an additional embossed calf strap that looks shockingly like top-quality synthetic fabric–gives a hint of how much versatility was intended by the design team. All style-points aside, though, nothing about this piece deviates from the 183-year pursuit of watchmaking finesse and innovation that have propelled Patek Philippe to the summit of prestige in the Swiss high watchmaking hierarchy–and kept it there–despite very distinguished and capable competition.
