Watches might be fantastic, but it is those friendships and human stories around the ticking treasures we watch idiot savants pursue that are vastly better and ultimately, incalculably more valuable. With that preface aside, I got a recent call from a good friend (and fellow horological geek, naturally), who had just returned from a business trip. Not unexpectedly, during this trip he went searching for watch retailers—you know, just to look and see the sights!–and, found himself a victim of the siren song in one of a series of conveniently adjacent boutiques. Some things just don’t stay in Las Vegas, as it turned out, and he returned with a lovely H. Moser & Cie. wristwatch. Naturally I couldn’t resist the opportunity to see the piece live, so we sidled up to the bar to chat a few days ago. What emerged from the watch roll surprised and delighted me in equal measure.
H. Moser & Cie. is an innovative company, a company with a sense of humor, and a Swiss watch brand that is unafraid to go its own way. These are well established virtues, and all admirable in their own right, especially for an upstart, fairly young brand. But a watch still has to “hit” a certain way, aesthetically, technically or otherwise–and the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool certainly does just that. Decidedly imposing at 42.8mm, but not quite over the borderline into unreasonable, the diameter makes sense in the way it gives full breath to the bewitching, polychromatic fume dial. And that is, of course, what really what makes this variant of the deceptively simple Pioneer collection, such a standout. While critics of “negative space” on dials are vocal about their dislikes, and I can respect differences of opinion, this one can be the eternal verdant void for all I care, as the end result is less a mere face for hands, than a scintillating miniature oceanic paradise. And like the ocean, the water’s colors and tonalities shift with every shift of the light source, light type, or arm movement. It’s both mesmerizing and relaxing to behold, and epitomizes why the H. Moser fume is such a superstar in terms of luxury watch dials. The hands upon it are really beautiful, too; I found myself particularly drawn to the creamy white seconds hand, which really stood out as it swept over the impossibly deep surface where greens and blues gave way to a near-black at the edges. Lume? Not terribly bright, as I did my best to discreetly cup the watch into the darkness of my palm in the establishment after a quick 500 lumen hit from my trusty Surefire EDCL1-T, but this is more a watch to be enjoyed in the bright splendor of a sunny day. I’ll confess I really didn’t care all that much that the glow emanating from the hands and hour pips wasn’t torch-like, and there are other famous timepieces that exist for that peculiar pleasure within the hobby.
The case of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer is as interesting in form as it is notable in finishing details. Finely machined striations fill in cavernous indentations in the lugs, seemingly to echo the similarly exacting serrations on the screwed-in winding crown, a feature aiding the watch in achieving its solid 120 meter water resistance. Buckles rendered with care and attention to both thematic and finishing nuances are always appreciated when it comes to top-tier luxury watches, and the Mega Cool delivers here nicely, showing off polished bevels, discreet brushing, and as you can see just above…the selfsame striation pattern that adorns the hollowed strap lugs. Speaking of straps, the blue green fabric unit supplied with the Mega Cool was one of the few aspects of the watch that missed the mark, at least a little, for my own tastes. This was not for any qualitative reason, as the strap is nicely constructed and stitched–it just struck me as being a bit too much, when paired with the glorious blue green dial. A little more contrast would be welcomed, and of course, this can be easily and simply rectified with a strap swap. My friend commented that while he was decidedly captivated with his new H. Moser Pioneer Mega Cool, he wasn’t sure when he’d find the occasion to wear it–largely because of its potent and perhaps even dominating color themes. When I mentioned that a strap swap might make it a little more versatile, he suddenly seemed to perk up. It’s what I’d do, at any rate. Something in light cream, or tan, would make this one of the most stunning all-occasion luxury summer sports watches for that you could possibly imagine. And to be fair, it’d get plenty of wrist time the other three seasons as well!
True to any really special mechanical watch, the view through the back is a confirmation that the sizable funds spent went to an object worthy of the outlay. H. Moser & Cie. is known for its innovative yet practical movements, and while the Pioneer Mega Cool doesn’t showcase any complications beyond central seconds, the HMC 200 caliber exudes an appealing combination of sturdiness, refinement, and engineering cleverness that seem decidedly German-Swiss, in the best traditions of Schaffhausen. Decoration, such as the broad stripes on the bridges, and bevels on the bridges, is clean and elegant, if largely machine applied, but somehow it all seems appropriate to the mission of the mechanism. The large, bi-directional winding rotor with it’s pawl-based transfer system conveys robustness and strength, yet has the refinement to remain an interesting visual inclusion. The balance bridge, with its slightly vaulted form, is the star of the show for me, both for its seductive shape, and relatively large balance wheel with the unique “Straumann” double hairspring. The balance assembly–including the innovative dual hairspring module–is designed to be easily removed for servicing/replacement in the manner of other watches of the brand, and highlights H. Moser’s commitment to horological performance as well as mere good looks. Overall, I’d describe the caliber as appropriate to a distinguished sports watch, yet with the refinement that goes far beyond an off the rack workhorse. Indeed, unlike even something highly respected like a Jaeger-LeCoultre base caliber, you’ll only find the HMC 200 in a watch with an H. Moser & Cie. signature. Exclusivity? Check!
Yet, admitted movement fetishist that I am, it was the dial side of this watch that most stole my heart, and really…I’m sure I’m not alone in that rapture. It was an enjoyable experience to put this one on, and see what all the excitement has been about. In a sea of beautiful luxury watches, this one actually puts the aquamarine glitter of a tropical paradise on your wrist, and has a visual presence scarcely matched by anything short of heavy hitting gem-set watches. Uncommon, sophisticated, and alluring, the Pioneer Mega Cool certainly lives up to its bold and confident name.
Wonderfully written, as always!
Thank you so much, Eric! On to the next acquisition? 😉