Tag: 2021 novelties

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Mega Cool: A Personal Trip To The Dial Of The Green Lagoon

Posted on by Adam Keith

Watches might be fantastic, but it is those friendships and human stories around the ticking treasures we watch idiot savants pursue that are vastly better and ultimately, incalculably more valuable. With that preface aside, I got a recent call from a good friend (and fellow horological geek, naturally), who had just returned from a business trip. Not unexpectedly, during this trip he went searching for watch retailers—you know, just to look and see the sights!–and, found himself a victim of the siren song in one of a series of conveniently adjacent boutiques. Some things just don’t stay in Las Vegas, as it turned out, and he returned with a lovely H. Moser & Cie. wristwatch. Naturally I couldn’t resist the opportunity to see the piece live, so we sidled up to the bar to chat a few days ago. What emerged from the watch roll surprised and delighted me in equal measure.

H. Moser & Cie. is an innovative company, a company with a sense of humor, and a Swiss watch brand that is unafraid to go its own way. These are well established virtues, and all admirable in their own right, especially for an upstart, fairly young brand. But a watch still has to “hit” a certain way, aesthetically, technically or otherwise–and the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool certainly does just that. Decidedly imposing at 42.8mm, but not quite over the borderline into unreasonable, the diameter makes sense in the way it gives full breath to the bewitching, polychromatic fume dial. And that is, of course, what really what makes this variant of the deceptively simple Pioneer collection, such a standout. While critics of “negative space” on dials are vocal about their dislikes, and I can respect differences of opinion, this one can be the eternal verdant void for all I care, as the end result is less a mere face for hands, than a scintillating miniature oceanic paradise. And like the ocean, the water’s colors and tonalities shift with every shift of the light source, light type, or arm movement. It’s both mesmerizing and relaxing to behold, and epitomizes why the H. Moser fume is such a superstar in terms of luxury watch dials. The hands upon it are really beautiful, too; I found myself particularly drawn to the creamy white seconds hand, which really stood out as it swept over the impossibly deep surface where greens and blues gave way to a near-black at the edges. Lume? Not terribly bright, as I did my best to discreetly cup the watch into the darkness of my palm in the establishment after a quick 500 lumen hit from my trusty Surefire EDCL1-T, but this is more a watch to be enjoyed in the bright splendor of a sunny day. I’ll confess I really didn’t care all that much that the glow emanating from the hands and hour pips wasn’t torch-like, and there are other famous timepieces that exist for that peculiar pleasure within the hobby.

The case of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer is as interesting in form as it is notable in finishing details. Finely machined striations fill in cavernous indentations in the lugs, seemingly to echo the similarly exacting serrations on the screwed-in winding crown, a feature aiding the watch in achieving its solid 120 meter water resistance. Buckles rendered with care and attention to both thematic and finishing nuances are always appreciated when it comes to top-tier luxury watches, and the Mega Cool delivers here nicely, showing off polished bevels, discreet brushing, and as you can see just above…the selfsame striation pattern that adorns the hollowed strap lugs. Speaking of straps, the blue green fabric unit supplied with the Mega Cool was one of the few aspects of the watch that missed the mark, at least a little, for my own tastes. This was not for any qualitative reason, as the strap is nicely constructed and stitched–it just struck me as being a bit too much, when paired with the glorious blue green dial. A little more contrast would be welcomed, and of course, this can be easily and simply rectified with a strap swap. My friend commented that while he was decidedly captivated with his new H. Moser Pioneer Mega Cool, he wasn’t sure when he’d find the occasion to wear it–largely because of its potent and perhaps even dominating color themes. When I mentioned that a strap swap might make it a little more versatile, he suddenly seemed to perk up. It’s what I’d do, at any rate. Something in light cream, or tan, would make this one of the most stunning all-occasion luxury summer sports watches for that you could possibly imagine. And to be fair, it’d get plenty of wrist time the other three seasons as well!

True to any really special mechanical watch, the view through the back is a confirmation that the sizable funds spent went to an object worthy of the outlay. H. Moser & Cie. is known for its innovative yet practical movements, and while the Pioneer Mega Cool doesn’t showcase any complications beyond central seconds, the HMC 200 caliber exudes an appealing combination of sturdiness, refinement, and engineering cleverness that seem decidedly German-Swiss, in the best traditions of Schaffhausen. Decoration, such as the broad stripes on the bridges, and bevels on the bridges, is clean and elegant, if largely machine applied, but somehow it all seems appropriate to the mission of the mechanism. The large, bi-directional winding rotor with it’s pawl-based transfer system conveys robustness and strength, yet has the refinement to remain an interesting visual inclusion. The balance bridge, with its slightly vaulted form, is the star of the show for me, both for its seductive shape, and relatively large balance wheel with the unique “Straumann” double hairspring. The balance assembly–including the innovative dual hairspring module–is designed to be easily removed for servicing/replacement in the manner of other watches of the brand, and highlights H. Moser’s commitment to horological performance as well as mere good looks. Overall, I’d describe the caliber as appropriate to a distinguished sports watch, yet with the refinement that goes far beyond an off the rack workhorse. Indeed, unlike even something highly respected like a Jaeger-LeCoultre base caliber, you’ll only find the HMC 200 in a watch with an H. Moser & Cie. signature. Exclusivity? Check!

Yet, admitted movement fetishist that I am, it was the dial side of this watch that most stole my heart, and really…I’m sure I’m not alone in that rapture. It was an enjoyable experience to put this one on, and see what all the excitement has been about. In a sea of beautiful luxury watches, this one actually puts the aquamarine glitter of a tropical paradise on your wrist, and has a visual presence scarcely matched by anything short of heavy hitting gem-set watches. Uncommon, sophisticated, and alluring, the Pioneer Mega Cool certainly lives up to its bold and confident name.

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Is A Stunner In New Titanium And Blue Guise

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A Patek 5070P it isn’t, but no apologies are needed. Like that legend, this is a gorgeous two-counter blue chronograph!)

Say what you will about Blancpain, but the small manufacture from the idyllic little farmhouse in Le Brassus can certainly put the color blue to fabulous work. As with the previously discussed Bathyscaphe for Bucherer, this Air Command chronograph injects resplendent, beautiful blue into what is otherwise an already very appealing chronograph both inside and out. The result is a superb high horology wristwatch with interesting mechanical capabilities and a charming vintage-inspired design enhanced by razor sharp color and contrasting textures. One could even argue, somewhat convincingly, that this Blancpain watch represents pretty solid watchmaking value for its luxury asking price in our odd times of hyper-priced luxury. But more about that shortly. Let’s discuss the glamorous, newly attired Air Command Flyback in more detail, and see what makes it a standout.

(The coveted 2019 edition of the Air Command, next to its far rarer 1950s predecessor)

Fans of Blancpain and chronographs in general will find the piece immediately familiar in form and layout. It shares the same fundamentals in size, flyback chronograph functionality, and movement form the 500-piece limited edition Air Command Flyback Ref. AC01 1130 63A, which saw introduction in 2019 and quickly sold out…now of course available on the secondary market from time to time, at well above its retail price. That watch, as an aside, represented a quite faithful reproduction of an exceedingly rare semi-prototype Blancpain pilot’s chronograph from the 1950s, but it brought to the table an impressively modern self-winding caliber produced by the Manufacture Blancpain and complete with such niceties as column wheel switching, a vertical clutch for stutter-free operation of the start stop and return sequences, and a freely sprung balance wheel in silicon. Being a flyback chronograph gave this rendition of a pilot’s watch extra gravitas and meant that, just as in days of old when such things were in fact instruments of genuine necessity, our hypothetical pilot could trigger the crisply actuated chronograph repeatedly without a stop in between, keeping measurements in moments of airborne daredevilry just a little bit easier.

(Restrained but sublime haute de gamme finishing, and uncompromising technical details throughout define the F388B movement)

The titanium blue beauty here does all the same, and is animated by the same F388B mechanism, although the massive central rotor in 18K gold is a little more spare compared to the charmingly thematic plane propeller version inside the coveted steel sibling. Rather than stainless steel, the case of this Air Command is manufactured from an extremely unusual and very high grade of titanium, which the brand has also seen fit to promote in its revised Fifty Fathoms collection. Reserved for very specific applications–surgical/dental implantation, and certain aircraft components being two of the notables–Grade 23 titanium is costlier than, and superior to, other titanium alloys in many respects, to include corrosion resistance, ductile strength and durability. It has a lovely color, and although very difficult to work due to its extremely hard properties, takes a beautiful and lasting polish. That polish is something that Blancpain has lavished with tasteful care here and there, just enough to bring out a bit of glamour, without overpowering the ethos of the fundamental pilot’s tool. The clean and elegant case frames a dial which should satisfy the cravings of the most hopeless addicts of blue dialed watches! Displaying a radial sunburst pattern, this dial will be an absolute stunner in the sun, as well as offering a lot of polychromatic depth in indoor settings. This handsome effect is contrasted well by clear and functional luminous Arabic numbers that forego any faux-aged sort of syndrome, as do the polished white gold hands. This is a spectacular canvas for the time display, yet immediately legible at any time, and beautifully presented in the classic two-counter (or bicompax, if you prefer) manner. Blancpain’s decision to keep dial text minimal is to be applauded, too, as is the choice of a sapphire capped luminous bezel that is deliciously thin and unobtrusive, yet a delight to the eye in both color and luster, to say nothing of being a lovely treat when the lights run low. True to a pilot’s watch functionality, said bezel rotates in both directions, giving you yet another timer on top of your chronograph to play with.

(The pump pushers…the cambered box profile sapphire glass..the contrasting finishes. Subtle details abound!)

The movement checks a lot of important boxes for me. First, it is an exclusive mechanism, recognizing that the Manufacture Blancpain and Frederic Piguet have been intimately cojoined for a long time now. It is beautifully finished as all modern Blancpain calibers are, with particular mention to the absolutely sumptuous anglage on the edge of every bridge, as well as the rather technical looking yet still very cool grey finished 18K gold rotor. As on the bridges of movements seen in the Fifty Fathoms line, a lack of typical Geneva stripes in favor of a grained texture is clever, and eschews the typical expectations for a “high luxury” movement, while giving up nothing in terms of visual appeal–especially in a watch with such sporting aspirations. Vertically rather than horizontally clutched for efficiency, this chronograph nonetheless has a classic column wheel to satisfy purists who demand only best in construction and resultant crisp pusher feel, and the balance wheel is both freely sprung and mounted on a bridge; these features combined with the fine adjustment Blancpain performs–a full six positions rather than a typical luxury watch standard of five–and you have a very high performance, yet sturdy and resilient, complicated movement. Adding to this menu of excellence is an uber-rapid balance frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, meaning that not only is the chronograph central hand possessed of scarcely bested smoothness of sweep, it provides the capability of timing precision to the nearest 1/10th of a second. With all of these points considered together, its clear you have a truly wonderful automatic chronograph movement ticking inside, carrying the high-beat allure of famous competition such as Zenith and Grand Seiko, with the superior finishing of amongst the best of the manufacture level, to include lofty competition like Audemars Piguet and even Patek Philippe, at least as far as more typical volume watches (such as the annual calendar chronographs) from that esteemed brand go. Fear not those precision-destroying magnetic fields either, as the Air Command benefits from the same amagnetic silicon hairspring technology as other esteemed Swatch Group siblings such as Omega and Breguet. Yes, the F388B is a chronograph movement which is beautiful and luxurious, yet high on real world practicality and chronometric excellence. Maybe you can have it all, after all?

(You can obtain the Air Command Flyback in red gold too, which looks stunning paired with blue!)

Topped off by a supple blue calfskin strap that spices it up with bold white stitching, Blancpain’s Air Command Flyback Chronograph in titanium is a companion redolent of class and charm, while offering some serious muscle behind the sapphire caseback. This is a world class high luxury chronograph without any doubt, and at around $18,500 (US) dollars, the price asked seems more than reasonable when compared against some of the aforementioned big competition. Yes, the retail price is well above an El Primero from Zenith, mind you, but then again, so is the finishing, and that’s a big part of the pricing where high horology is concerned. (Being a Blancpain, it’s also likely that “the number” probably isn’t the number, especially if you ask the lovely folks at the boutique nicely.) And, should you want an even more opulent presentation for this watch’s radiant blue two-counter chronograph dial, Blancpain has you covered there: a red gold variant is available which is gorgeous indeed, as colored golds and blue go together about as well as any two things ever. With the exception of a red gold rotor to match the case, and a price tag some $10,000 greater, it’s the same great timepiece.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 42 Limited Edition In White Gold: Stealth Wealth Luxury Diver Of Subtle Distinction

Posted on by Adam Keith

I’ll make no bones about it. We no longer reside in the relaxed atmosphere of 2006, where it seemed the louder one’s luxury watch was, the better. With the maelstrom of world events, economic turbulence, and steep price hikes in recent years, my own favorite luxury watches have ever increasingly become those with a more subdued presence. This is even more the case when we’re discussing an already world famous design or prestige brand flagship which is well known; depending on the fame of said watch design, you may not entirely escape the public’s attention (desired or otherwise), but certain variant or metal choices choices will keep your love of achingly dear horology a more private affair, if you happen to feel similarly to myself, at any rate. (Which I admit, I feel somewhat a minority in, being a horological child of more innocent times in the 90s and early 2000s, when being a watch hobbyist was more accessible and free of stigma.) With that in mind, I think it’s worth taking a look at one of the most recent addition to the prestigious and highly coveted Royal Oak Offshore range from Audemars Piguet. In this case, AP has chosen to expand their Offshore Diver line with a precious white gold model. In so doing, they’ve given this renowned 42mm high-luxury diver a very subtle yet distinguished character which stands out just enough from its more commonly seen steel variants. More specifically, it does so because of well-chosen stylistic choices here and there rather than overt flash and bling. In fact, looking at it, you’d scarcely distinguish it from a steel AP Offshore…unless, you’re a typically sharp-eyed WIS of course! And we all know how that goes, but I digress.

Even before the handsome black ceramic bezel–a key departure from the stainless steel models with their meticulously brushed stainless steel equivalents–I noticed the dial, and more specifically, the color of its luminous applications. An appealing ecru tone, the luminous application strikes a rather nice balance between warmth and the aggressive watch industry trend of fauxtina, which we can all admit has about an equal ratio of ardent fans to vociferous detractors. Regardless of one’s feelings about the trend in vintage-tinted lume, I think most can agree that the shade AP has chosen is very pleasing, reminding me of a well aged tritium dial minus any tropical sort of water damaged affliction seen on certain specimens of vintage sports watches. The Offshore Diver in white gold has the newer luminous hour indexes of differing lengths, giving it a more classic, Submarineresque sort of vibe, which after many decades is almost ingrained into the watch loving public’s subconsciousness as THE look for a dive watch. Legibility is another superb trait of this arrangement, as quarter hours are that much more distinguishable at a quick glance. One can still smile at the large pattern “Mega Tapisserie” waffle guilloche that is a hallmark of the Royal Oak design, knowing the heritage of the watch and its rich history within the pantheon of greats. If that isn’t enough, you have the polished white gold AP signature at 12 o’clock, proud, yet slightly aloof, without the additional Audemars Piguet spelled out in full below it; the hands and hour markers, distinctively shaped and faceted, are also in polished white gold and reflect light in a titillating fashion. Dial print is at a clear minimum, focusing the eyes on the purposeful indications of time, the elapsed time bezel, and the seconds hand sweeping clearly, the latter thing an assurance that your upscale diver’s tool is fully functional to see you through to another dive…or out of a soul-crushing meeting. And speaking of the latter, if you want to dress your diver up, a quick change strap system at the lugs enable you to quickly swap the rubber strap to a supplied alternative in calf leather, or any other appropriate AP or aftermarket alternative in your exotic material of choice.

While the 18K white gold case might be barely indistinguishable from stainless steel alternatives used in other AP Offshore Diver model references, the use of ceramic for the octagonal bezel, screw-locked winding crown, and the secondary bezel adjustment crown give a barely noticeable yet decidedly clear upsurge of luxury presence. Impeccably manufactured from the nearly scratch proof material, these elements display the same crisp angles and beautiful polished facets as the case flanks and lugs, and keep the feeling of the details high tech as well as artisanal. While there are few precious metal dive watches that might tempt you to challenge the depths beyond your desk, this one has enough subtlety and purposefulness to push that envelope and tempt a few brave souls who long for the days when an expensive tool watch was, well, still a tool. Should you dare to so do, know that Audemars Piguet has verified the pressure-proof capability to a very worthy 300 meters, far more than sufficient for scuba diving necessity, and well above the limits of the average Homo sapiens.

The in-house AP 4308 movement, familiar from its stainless steel Offshore Diver brethren, continues Audemars Piguet’s family of updated in-house calibers. It is both refined, attractively appointed in the extreme, and at 5.4mm thick, surely more than reasonably robust for a haute horlogerie engine. Equipped with a freely-sprung Gyromax balance wheel pulsing 28,800 beats hourly on a fully supported balance bridge, the 4308 offers up 60 hours of power reserve–not the longest in the field of worthy competitors, but certainly more than enough for most reasonable use, especially when considering the attractive sight it offers through the sapphire back. Those niceties include lusciously broad Geneva stripes, bridges with scintillating polished angles, and a 22K gold mass elegantly and discreetly oxidized a dark color for a nice contrast with the rhodium-plated bridges, as well as a nod to the purposeful capabilities behind the luxury facade. It’s slightly surreal to acknowledge the passing of nineteen years since the debut of the caliber’s forefather, the 3120, but the aesthetic and functional heritage of that pioneering automatic for AP is clear, and it’s great to see it evolving into existing and new model families from the esteemed Vallee de Joux manufacture. This movement is certainly not the most exotic of Audemars Piguet calibers, nor the most extensively hand finished, but it represents AP’s commitment to functional yet luxurious and exclusive mechanisms for their most popular model lines. It’s a shame that just 300 examples of this specific Offshore Diver will be made, but I suppose “all good things must come to an end”, as the saying goes.

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface: A Daring Take On A Classic Dress Watch, Or A Case Of Confused Identity?

Posted on by Adam Keith

Just because you can…doesn’t always mean you should. A nugget of wisdom bandied about for ages, and one you don’t think much about, until you see something that makes you say “oh yeah…that is sort of good advice”. I think it’s a tad applicable with these new releases from Vacheron Constantin, which take one of their most beautiful classic complications and render it somewhat diluted, even confused as to brand identity. There are few bigger fans of Vacheron than myself, mind you, but this is an illustration that even the greatest of classic brands can fall a little short of the mark, by trying to put a new spin on something simply to generate novelty for its own sake. To be clear–pun slightly intended–the historic manufacturer has done avant garde well in the past, if we look at something like the now extinct Quai De L’ile series. Maybe they weren’t for Vacheron Constantin purists, but they had their own character, used exotic materials, and made their point in a fresh way. These aren’t that though, and the avant garde design approach doesn’t quite get it done when applied to typical Vacheron hyper classicism as seen in the aptly-named Traditionnelle line. To be clear, these Complete Calendar Openface variants are gorgeous watches, in terms of execution—but they prove that simply showing off the mechanics in a watch, however artfully crafted that watch may be, doesn’t necessarily make an existing watch more compelling as horological art. As with a gourmet meal, the finest ingredients are always the foundation, but those ingredients can’t just be thrown together haphazardly…likewise, a timepiece like this depends on finery, but the whole is so, so much more than the sum.

(The sight is lovely, but there’s a LOT going on here. Legibility isn’t a strong suit, either, unfortunately.)

Let’s focus on the many positives first, though. These open-faced Traditionnelle Complete Calendars are beautiful in every detail, without any question, as you’d expect. A Poincon de Geneve hallmarked triple calendar moonphase from one of the oldest and most historic maisons in the world? Yes, an automatic gold star! The 41mm diameter cases are lovely and stately in form, the dauphine hands with their polished and frosted surfaces a delight, and the proportions overall a sublime study in the classic wristwatch, regardless of whether you opt for the rose or white gold version.The dial–whether you enjoy its transparent striptease or find it distracting–is a marvel of intricacy, featuring three distinct yet barely separated levels, to include the vertically oriented guilloche sector, a flange above that presenting the calendar numerology, and finally, a sapphire crystal atop them, bearing the meticulously polished and faceted gold hour markers. With the underdial mechanism exposed, you can clearly view the beautifully chamfered and brushed steel jumpers, polished screws, and other subtle nuances such as the transparent sapphire discs for the days and months, as well as an impressively rendered moonphase disc showing a decidedly detailed impression of the lunar surface. The same can be said of the opposite side of the watch, which shows off the immaculately finished Vacheron Constantin 2460 QCL/2 caliber through a pane of sapphire glass. It is, naturally, an in-house movement and presents all the luxurious, visual treats of a Geneva Seal-winning caliber, including such delightful extras as an openworked Maltese Cross-formed 22K gold winding rotor, and bridges with a dark anthracite treatment for that little bit of stealthy but impossible to ignore haute de gamme showboating. Despite the relatively small movement size relative to the case, it really is a spectacle to relish, and makes one wonder why an aspiring collector of haute horlogerie bothers with the average “entry level” precious metal Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Sohne, especially these days. Anyone who chooses one of these triple calendars will doubtless get a superbly crafted, manufacture dress watch of the highest pedigree, with impeccable details and a daring raise-your-eyebrows sort of variation upon the themes of which Vacheron Constantin is a great master.

But then, you pause to consider, and realize…these watches, at just over $47,000 USD, are hardly an inexpensive value proposition either compared to references from the major competitors, and the triple calendar, while classic and charming, is quite a ways behind the perpetual calendar, or even an annual, which adjusts itself for most of the year, (if you don’t mind intervening on February, of course!) And that “face”…well, it is indeed a pretty sight in miniature detail, but as a whole, maybe exudes too much quasi-Hublot novelty in the shell of a iconic dress watch, and that’s even before we get into issues of legibility and the sense of stately calm you surely expect in a complete calendar classic such as a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle. And even within the brand’s own offerings, a quick glance at the conventional versions of these Vacheron Constantin classics quickly restores a sense that this is what was intended where such things are concerned. And what of the aforementioned Quai De L’Ile collection, which took features such as daringly open dials and really gave them a bold new stage to play on? Well, that collection sadly met its end in 2019, after just a ten year run. More’s the pity, as I think there was a lot to like about it, yet, I’d argue against partially resurrecting those aesthetic cues here, where they are even more incongruous with the celebrated Vacheron Constantin design language. “Render unto Caesar what is Caesar’s…”

(The same mechanism and case, sans open dial. Despite some mechanical mystery, Isn’t that just a *little* more pleasing?)

Patek Philippe 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo: A Dominant Bell Toll In The World Of The Minute Repeater Complication

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A intricate, unusual dial and bright orange strap hint that this minute repeater watch is far, far more than meets the ear!)

Among that elite circle of manufacturers known to produce the devilishly complex minute repeater complication, none are more widely celebrated than Patek Philippe.  Not just because of Patek Philippe’s long expertise in producing these exquisite and highly intricate chiming watches, but their fanatical attention to the sound quality produced by the chimes–itself a difficult acoustic mark to hit, and one affected by many factors, including the length and thickness of the gong springs, the way in which the hammers are adjusted to hit them, and the resonance properties of the case material and its constructive quirks.  Patek has spent many decades mastering this exquisite complication, and one could say they’ve made it a bit of a pleasantly fanatical pursuit to produce the best in class. Indeed, as is well known to many horological devotees, each and every Patek Philippe watch with minute repeater complication is presented to the company head (Thierry Stern, and before him, his father Philippe) who passes the final judgment on whether the product is ready for a discerning owner, or must go back to the master watchmaker’s bench for further minuscule adjustments.
 

(The slide-piece which starts the music is classically placed on the left side of the platinum case, ready to bring the chimes to life)

A quick visit to YouTube to listen to any number of Patek Philippe minute repeater watches of both old and more recent production quickly reveals just how good the brand is at “getting it right”–yet, despite this well-honed mastery, Patek Philippe continues to strive forward and take these aural pieces of horological delight to new levels. The watch we have here, just announced, is the Reference 5750P Fortissimo, and it promises to enrich the traditional minute repeater with innovative technology that will let the chimes of time sing with unparalleled beauty and sonority.  Even more fascinating, the clever acoustical solutions Patek Philippe has come up with negate the advantages (or disadvantages) of various case materials, once a surprisingly important factor in how bold–or muted–a minute repeater might sound to the human ear. That’s one reason that Patek Philippe has chosen to case this groundbreaking minute repeater watch in platinum–a material known to be particularly difficult from an acoustical standpoint.

(The forest of hand finished racks, cams, and other levers under the dial, all meticulously adjusted, control the strike sequence)

What do I mean? Well, denser materials such as platinum tend to absorb more sound than 18K gold, which in turn doesn’t amplify as well as somewhat less noble materials such as steel or titanium, all factors being equal.  Much like an Antonio Stradivari or Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu choosing the finest tone wood for the construction of a fine violin or cello, the materials chosen play a role in the ultimate effect of the completed instrument. Of course, additional gongs, larger gongs, or innovative case design can all play a role too, and Patek Philippe has gone all out to maximize all the factors in making the ultimate example of a chiming watch. Going back to our luthier example, for those who can appreciate the comparison, that might be the equivalent of the arching of the violin when the top and back are being created–those architectural choices, one way or the other, can impact the sonority of the completed, and strung-up violin, as well its ability to deliver a world class concert sound for years, even centuries, into the future.

At first glance, the base R27 movement appears familiar from other Patek Philippe minute repeating wristwatches such as the Ref. 5074 or 5078. But immediate differences from R27s seen in those watches are also readily observable, such as a new rotor in platinum, thinner than the previous 22K gold component yet equally efficient thanks to platinum’s greater density. Most obviously unique to this caliber, however, is the curious forked apparatus traveling from the case edge and gongs, through the jewel settings of the black-polished repeater hammers and terminating in a circular component. This part, a key aspect of the acoustical amplification of this movement is the highly sensitive sound lever, a direct conduit from the vibrating gongs to an nearly invisible sapphire crystal oscillating wafer with a razor thin thickness of just 0.2 millimeter. This sapphire component, part of the several patented elements in this Advanced Research caliber, is attached to–and works with the transmitting sound lever, and a special titanium ring with several cutouts hidden from view–to boost the sound transmission multiple fold over what a standard minute repeater might be capable. The slightly added height this arrangement gave to the R27PS caliber also helps explain the choice for the thinner platinum microrotor I mentioned earlier–every millimeter of added movement height counts in high horology, and Patek Philippe was not about to make the Advanced Research Fortissimo anything less than an elegant, relatively slender wristwatch.

How much additional sonority does the Fortissimo Module in the Ref. 5750 deliver? Well, Patek Philippe claims a six-fold increase: that is, the dulcet tones of this one can be heard clearly sixty meters away, compared to approximately ten from anything else they’ve produced. That seems impressive indeed, in fact, maybe even slightly more potent than optimal, given the blue-blooded discretion that you’d suspect a typical minute repeater client might normally crave. That said, have no fear–Thierry Stern and his team at Patek have made two other modifications which soothe the near-operatic vocal cords of the Ref. 5750 to a volume befitting the utmost in patrician sensibility. First, Patek Philippe opted for an unusual selection of platinum for the repeater hammers over the standard polished steel, for reasons that the weight and density of the former yield an ultimately softer peal when hitting the gongs. Secondly, and notably, the tempo of a time-strike sequence has been extended for a several second period compared to that of previous Patek Philippe minute repeaters, to allow for a bit more sonic expansion both between hammer strikes, and at the conclusion of the sequence. Of course, at no time will these many refined technical tricks be more enjoyable than at the magical minute repeater “Witching Hour” of 12:59, when the listener is greeted to the always reverential sequence of twelve individual low tones, three high-low combinations for the quarter hours, and an additional nineteen high tones for the remaining individual minutes of the hour.

Yes, the 5750 Advanced Research is a triumphal masterpiece, and represents the best of what Patek Philippe can offer. It’s easy to forget truly wondrous pieces like this amidst the never-ending chatter about the latest Nautilus variant, and the newest sanity-bending sales price for it at one auction venue or another. At 40mm in diameter, this platinum beauty–complete with the signature round brilliant set between the 6 o’clock case lugs as you’d expect–is a contemporary classic already fit to join the rarified company of other Patek minute repeaters produced in years prior. Yet, the Fortissimo has been given some unique details that give it a character unlike any of its siblings. Chalk that up to its saucy orange alligator strap and striking silvered dial with skeletonized lozenge motif; the same detail is echoed on the platinum microrotor’s decoration, and is intended to evoke the spokes of a classic roadster. The dial pattern sort of winks and hints at the engineering brilliance that’s embodied in this classic masterpiece, which is watchmaking artistry on the highest level, no matter how you slice it. The 5750P’s retail price is appropriately high at over half a million dollars, and honestly, watches like this are among the few that can actually justify such Olympian price tags. Only fifteen will be made, and I hope it is the truest of true blue Patek Philippe faithful who acquire these to enjoy and yes…wear. Not just for themselves mind you, but their very blessed descendants as well, just as the historic Genevan manufacturer would intend.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Green Guilloche: A High Tech Beauty That’s Changed My Mind About An Enthusiast Brand

Posted on by Adam Keith

Think of a top industry actress (or actor, if you prefer!) that is universally extolled for their talent, filmographic repertoire, and most notably for this discussion, beauty and sex appeal, around the globe…but that individual for whatever reason, doesn’t really resonate with you in that way. Oh sure, you unabashedly recognize that this person ticks all the boxes for what makes a human appealing, and you certainly wouldn’t kick them out of bed for eating crackers, but they just aren’t your type, even if you had half a snowball’s chance in the Devil’s dominion. But one day, you see them in a certain film, and be it their attire, their character, or how it all comes together, and it’s now a very different perception…all of a sudden, you get it. That’s a bit like how the very high end watch brand of De Bethune is for me, as a watch guy. I’ve intellectually admired them for a long time, recognized how so many other watch lovers could find them irresistible, but few models have really called out to me on any cohesive level, despite my acknowledgement of the horological ingenuity, finishing, and unique presence. And now…this DB25 Perpetual Calendar gets announced. And yes, now I “get it”. What a gorgeous and absolutely covetous watch!

(In 44mm polished titanium with unique De Bethune design cues, the DB 25 is unmistakable yet subtle)

The DeBethune here is not a classic perpetual calendar like the legendary Ref. 3448 Patek Philippe, a mid-century Audemars Piguet, or even a Lange Langematik Perpetual–its 44mm case breadth and unique De Bethune styling signatures such as the skeletonized lugs, are obvious assurances of that point. But, it delves deeply into the vocabulary of classic detailing that keeps it firmly in the camp of a watch that has ageless beauty. No more is that evident than in the mesmerizing green dial, which radiates the feeling of something special, without any garish overtone that some green dials can convey–the shade and finish of it is sublime, completely transcending the modern industry fetish for green-themed watches. And while the DB25 Perpetual is large, it can’t be denied that the ample real estate lets this dial stretch its very shapely legs. Classic roman numerals in contrasting silver at the hours and a railroad minute track with Arabic marks at the 5-minute intervals speak to watches known and loved for over a century, while the intricate guilloche center, set distinct from the outer chapter shows off the illusory sense of bending light and three dimensional texture, a sensation enhanced by the absolutely ravishing polished leaf hands, with tips gracefully curving towards the dial. Calendar days and months at the center of the dial, at 9 and 3 respectively lend a sense of calm and balance, setting the stage for a famous DeBethune specialty: the rotating, hemispherical moonphase, comprised of joined sections of oxidized steel and palladium to artfully replicate the lighter and darker sides of our heavenly satellite, all against a poetic background of a blackened gold sky shining with inlaid rose gold stars. The fact that De Bethune has discreetly included a leap year indicator just below the moon phase, all while keeping the poetic night sky effect unperturbed, is most pleasing. The polished titanium case with its thin bezel and unique architecture contribute to this DB25’s sense of unstressed complexity, serenity, and utterly wearable nature.

(Innovation and exclusivity: De Bethune movements are full of patented horological goodies)

Even before my “enlightenment”, I always admired the effort De Bethune put forth in creating high-end manufacture movements chock full of innovative mechanisms that distinguished them amongst the high horology crowd. The DB2324, comprising 425 parts and 47 jewels, is no exception to that track record, and decorated in striking manner that is both refined yet somehow architecturally fascinating and futuristic. To my eyes, it comes off more like a miniature exotic car engine, or something similar, than just another pretty movement. Elements that reinforce that sort of impression include the rotor with its blued titanium arms screwed to the white gold outer mass with an almost excessive–if excitingly so!–four screws on each arm, and a similarly shaped balance bridge of the same material, its securing point thrusting sharply upward from the outer legs, and connecting to an additional supporting structure to carry off the distinctive “Triple Parachute” shock absorber system for the freely sprung balance wheel. That balance wheel, manufactured from a combination of titanium and platinum, is itself another example of De Bethune innovation, offering up distinctive regulation weights for fine adjustment, and a patented hairspring with a flat terminal curve. The 5-day power reserve is another notable technical feature of the caliber, and should ensure preservation of the most certainly excellent precision–as well as a giving a nice chance to rotate this beauty out for others in your collection, when you can bear to take it off, that is! While on the topic of precision, once its set, the DB2324’s moonphase display also won’t deviate from astronomic reality by a single day for 122 years, rather a moot point for the average human, but again, we see another example of the thoughtful perfectionism that De Bethune strives for.

(A green textile strap is provided as an additional alternative, and looks casually smashing with that dial!)

To me, De Bethune has created a fine example of their unique watchmaking aesthetic in this green DB25 variant, one that calls to mind all the romantic things beloved in classical horology but framed in a refreshing and very forward-looking way, with cutting edge mechanical tech to match. This is a watch that is beautiful and intricate, but without any excessive formality to relegate it to more occasional use. Dressed down (or up), this is a masterful creation that begs to be worn daily, with the rarefied details to delight its owner at every glance. I’ll confess that it also makes me want to dig back into the De Bethune catalog and explore their impressive watchmaking adventures more. Clearly, I’ve been missing out!

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One: High Luxury Sports Watch At Another Level Of Excellence

Posted on by Adam Keith

Some people really do have everything, and are looking for the next frontier of luxury experience. Others could have everything, (or pretty close to it) but choose to be more selective in their process, and want to surround themselves with exceptional objects so discreet and unusual that only a handful of cognoscenti would have any idea. For either of those categories of elite watch collectors, the brilliant and perfectionistic Romain Gauthier has just the piece for you: the Continuum Titanium Edition One. It is sure to be an appetizing antidote to the hegemony of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, nameless AP Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition, or even another hyper-priced, but perhaps equally overly hyped, Richard Mille.

(A component from a Romain Gauthier watch, showing the typical obsessive attention to finishing and detail practiced by the Manufacture)


For those who’ve been following the progression of Romain Gauthier since the early 2000s, it’s indeed difficult to not be impressed with the combination of exceptional artisanal finish and mechanical ingenuity embodied in the creations of this humble yet demanding independent–one who’s passion originated not from a watchmaker’s training, but a background in precision engineering. This, of course, ultimately led to Gauthier’s first ventures in creating high quality parts and technical solutions for other watchmakers. Yet, after doing that for a time, the man grew restless and sought to create a watch collection of his own, unifying the best of classical watchmaking with his own forward-thinking mechanical and aesthetic ethos. Those ambitions in haute horlogerie were nurtured and coached by none other than Philippe Dufour, who’s expertise the ambitious yet humble founder sought out from the early days, with results that have been clear to see across the growing, award-winning Romain Gauthier collection. And while it was tours de forces like the exquisite “Logical One” with its superbly crafted, ingenious jeweled chain-and-fusee mechanism that have increasingly made the name a magical one for collectors of the ultra-rare, sports watches weren’t something you might have expected to see.  With the introduction of the Continuum, limited to an achingly small edition of 28 pieces, that has all certainly changed. It is a watch far…far from inexpensive, and nor would you expect it to be given the maker, but the CHF 37,000 price accorded the Continuum is really quite reasonable indeed when you begin to wrap your heart and head around the Romain Gauthier watchmaking philosophy, the true labor of love involved in any watch emerging from the atelier, and the undeniable, hyper exclusivity factor.

The team at Romain Gauthier have created a case measuring 41mm wide by x 9.55 mm tall in hypoallergenic Grade 5 titanium. At a length of 49.5mm lug to lug, it is certainly a wrist filler, but given the striking presence and flawless execution, I doubt it will be an impediment to a real love affair with this watch! What grabs you immediately with the Continuum Titanium Edition One is the unity of a striking design with beautiful, and extremely intricate craftsmanship, from the brushed and polished alternating scallops on the bezel, to fascinating angular lugs that perfectly mate to the dark grey rubber strap. Even the strap carries on that feeling of extreme detail, from the texture of it, down to the richly crafted buckle in finely brushed and polished alternations. Everywhere you look, contrasting finishes and angles surfaces converge in sublime and delightful ways, drawing the viewer in to discover additional secrets about the watch that might not have been evident on the first, or even the tenth viewing. As with the best movies, books, or music, a truly great watch can be discovered–and rediscovered–many times over, and the Continuum certainly passes that litmus test with flying colors.

(The utmost attention to detail continues even to the strap and buckle textures)

The dial titillates the eye in a similar way, featuring an unusual yet compelling merger of drawn out and compact indexes, the always-charming “3-6-9” Arabic numeral principals that have defined more than a few famous sports watch dials over the decades, and an offset subsidiary seconds dial that is both restrained and a little bit crazy at the same time, thanks to the unusual red sunray pattern exploding out from it. Meticulous finishing contrasts abound here as with the case, the matte, grained Grade 5 titanium dial giving emphasis to the subtle faceting of the hour indexes, which–like the quite three-dimensional hands (sort of a neo-dauphine style, perhaps?)–are crafted from satin-finished white gold, and have ample luminous fill to keep things easily legible in darkness.

But it is through the exhibition back where the Continuum Titanium Edition One surely proves its ultimate mettle. The impression of this in-house produced and conceived, manually wound Romain Gauthier caliber is that of a strong and capable machine conceived with vibrant engineering passion, yet one beautifully designed and finished with the highest degree of care from the ground up–a melding of traditional watchmaking concepts with something modern, and perhaps even futuristic, you might say. Manually wound, the basics include a construction of 154 parts, 24 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and 60 hours of power reserve. The bridge shape and detail–an homage to the “finger bridge” style synonymous with classical Vallee de Joux movements–aren’t decoratively fussy in any way, yet show off extreme attention to finishing quality, and a distinctive three-dimensional aspect, much in the same manner as the watch’s hand set. A fascinating, hand-applied tremblage type finish graces the primary surfaces and matte, coolly-technical bevels with a distinct double-bordered step frame them in; they aren’t as immediately visually radiant as the bridge finishing seen on some of the more complex Romain Gauthier models, but I think the aesthetic perfectly suits the flavor and themes of the Continuum as a whole. It is subtle and technical, with a modest beauty that pulls you in…at which point you realize this is far beyond your average, entry-level Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe reference.

Examining the painstakingly finished wheels with their swooping, circular–and yes, beveled!–spokes reveals the same fanatical attention to minding the little things, and the construction of the caliber allows us to perceive many interesting technical and decorative aspects. Examples of the latter would include the black polished S-shaped screws securing the bridges (also a feature on the caseback of the watch, in a superb example of luxurious continuity), the distinctive conoid regulating weights on the freely sprung balance wheel, and an ingenious snail cam for precise stopping and restarting of the escapement. This beautifully polished little component comes in contact with the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out to affect setting, and creates optimal precision not just in halting the balance, but getting it robustly back into motion once the crown is pressed back in. Romain Gauthier also proudly makes note of their proprietary triangular pallet lever, a subtle but notable improvement to the typical more fork-like appendage seen in most Swiss lever implementations.

(Romain Gauthier’s triangular pallet lever advances classic Swiss lever escapement performance)

The triangular modification of this small yet critical escapement component is claimed to improve stability, efficiency, and shock resistance as well as give a slight boost to the balance amplitude, all while retaining the classic reliability and predictable performance of the proven Swiss Lever. Again, a nod to proven traditions of watchmaking, but rendered in a fresh, thoughtful, and cleverly engineered way! The Romain Gauthier way.

A founder with real passion for excellence, Romain Gauthier is at the vanguard of 21st century independent watchmaking

Patek Philippe Ref. 6119: Maintaining The Calatrava’s Eternally Elegant Recipe In Delicious Fashion

Posted on by Adam Keith

Almost two decades ago, at an age just smart enough to understand price, but too foolish to understand value, I was fortunate enough to acquire a Patek Philippe 5107R Calatrava. It was my first truly exceptional watch, and it represented something magical for me: an intersection of brand greatness, legendary design continuity, and movement workmanship at the high level. I cherished it, until I later on became tempted with other watches, and sold it off to fund those dalliances in things which ticked. A bad case of sellers remorse, despite it going to the best of homes? Oh yes, and that would be only one of many I have had over the years, but at least I had been able to experience one of the handful of true horological legends. When people think of exceptional complications, they often think of Patek Philippe first–yet, the storied Geneva brand associated with so many famous owners and appreciators also comes to mind when elegant simplicity is considered, as the Calatrava collection has really defined the round gentleman’s wristwatch since 1932, when the Reference 96 debuted.

(A vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava, Ref. 96)

There have been many legendary references, though, some hand-wound like the 96 and its current honorable predecessor and others (like the aforementioned 5107) with automatic winding movements. While no bad choice can be made in the Calatrava lineup, my heart tells me that if I ever get a chance to don one again, said Calatrava would have to be manual wind, without date display, to be in the spirit of its ancestor. With that established, Patek Philippe has created something wonderful with their 2021 introduction, the References 6119G and 6119R, in white and rose gold respectively. Deceptively simple, yet with a potent visual presence, and each metal having its own distinct character thanks to differing finishing textures, the 6119 also boasts a new, slightly larger 39mm case–giving the classic dress watch form greater capability for everyday wear.

The opaline dial of the rose gold model is the classic, warmer choice of the two, while the vertically grained one in the white gold is discreet, icily beautiful, and glittering with nuance. In either, a fine sector division at the seconds subdial, a railroad track minute section, and multiply faceted hands and hour markers in polished 18K gold create a glittering feast of varied light play and details to admire. Crowning these dial fireworks is a hobnailed guilloched bezel as iconic for PP as the fluted one is for Rolex, and it creates another sublime light play which changes quite dramatically according to the type and quantity cast upon it. I simply adore the hobnail bezel on this new model, and it pairs impeccably with these exquisite dials.

Of course, a Patek Philippe watch is as much about what’s inside, as it is a showcase of timeless style. And here, watch lovers should find a lot to rejoice about. Rather than shoehorn an old, smaller diameter movement into the case with a spacer ring and call it a day–something some have found a bit egregious with the 37mm Ref. 5196’s relatively undersized 215PS that was mercifully hidden by a solid caseback–Patek Philippe here created a proper brand new caliber, and a fine one it is!

(The new 39mm case…and a proper, larger diameter movement to fill it! Thickness is a scant 2.5mm, however.)

Dubbed 30-255 PS (PS = “petite seconde“), this caliber fully fills the 39mm gold case of its host, offers a sensuous structure of swooping bridges adorned with traditional haute de gamme finishing, and gives a significant power reserve upgrade compared to predecessors. That would be a full 65 hours in fact, thanks to double mainspring barrels. These mainspring barrels, which unwind in like measure through the reserve, also give the mechanism a very strong dose of torque, contributing further to excellent chronometric precision from full wind to near stop. All I can say is, I’d spend a lot of time looking at this caliber through the caseback as it’s very pretty in form and decoration, and a lot of the gear train is visible as well: hardcore loupe-lookers and macro photography masochists might argue that beveling and details are not quite at Lange level, (or maybe even modern Vacheron Constantin) but that’s picking pretty pettily at straws, and merit is dubious. I do find myself wistfully wishing the escape wheel bridge had a black polished cap, though, just like the classic, simple Patek Philippe movements from the 1940s, 50s, or 60s did, but as a total package, this watch–and its movement–is a cohesive powerhouse of high luxury excellence, Bauhaus design perfection, and watchmaking prowess.

Patek Philippe prices have become a bitter pill to swallow in recent years, like all of the most sought after brands. It’s hard to believe those halcyon days of the late 90s or early 2000s when an equivalent Patek Philippe reference might have sold new at an authorized dealer for ten to twelve thousand or so. Not so, now: this one will set you back $29,570 Yankee dollars, and at that lofty price, there is plenty of worthy competition from brands like the aforementioned A. Lange or Vacheron Constantin, as well as new upstarts like the exceptional Genevan maker Laurent Ferrier. F.P. Journe and H. Moser, as well as others, would stand in this elite company, as well. Still, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 6119 is one of those hallowed watches that combines everything you could want in a way few others can. And beyond that comprehensive excellence, the Calatrava will never go out of style, will always be coveted, and be a collection cornerstone to never get rid of…no matter what. (Ask me how I know!) Now I reckon it’s time to just quell that butthurt over those long-ago silly decisions and get a GoFundMe going to put a 6119G on my wrist, so I can have that second chance! 😉