Tag: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 5326G-001 Travel Time: Technical Panache Meets Casual Elegance, For A New Benchmark In Annual Calendars

Posted on by Adam Keith

Patek Philippe put on quite the impressive showing at Watches and Wonders this year, with some fantastic new references to enrich its distinguished catalog. The watch press has expended the fair measure of proverbial ink for good reason, and I’ll join the fray with my thoughts over one of the most lauded, the 5326G-001 Dual Time Annual Calendar. One of the most versatile and useful complicated watches the house has produced in years, it’s the sort of ticking treasure that a cynical horology geek can appreciate most after loving and losing many watches…largely in pursuit of that elusive grail that can accompany one no matter the occasion, yet embody the highest standards of craftsmanship. Refined yet pleasantly capable of casual wear thanks to its design nuances and material contrasts, the 5326G unifies an impressive mechanism with day to day practicality. The overall result is a watch that is deeply prestigious in the best way of the mythic house of Patek Philippe, yet totally wearable on a day to day basis, with a discreet and outwardly humble mien. It’s also an important watch because it represents an evolution of a Patek Philippe innovation–the annual calendar, a clever and well-conceived mechanism requiring a manual calendar correction solely at the start of March. It was Patek, after all, who brought the very first such complication to market back in 1996, offering watch lovers a somewhat more financially reachable–and, easier to live with from a servicing perspective–alternative to its exquisite perpetual calendar offerings. Of course, at just over $75,000 USD this is an eye-wateringly expensive bauble, as are most complicated Patek Philippes. But is it still a good value? As such odd anachronisms as finely crafted mechanical watches go from a brand as sought after as this, I’d say emphatically “yes”, however grotesque that may sound at purely face value. (If all else fails when you contemplate PP pricing vs availability, a quick look at various Nautilus valuations will make the innovative 5326G look like a comparative bargain!) But nevertheless, crass discussions about blue book numbers aren’t the point here, and the watch itself transcends those deftly with its charm and intelligence.

(An intricately made case, with numerous classical Patek Philippe design signatures, is a highlight of the 5326)

Vibes of the legendary Ref. 3448 “Padellone”–one of Patek’s greatest vintage perpetual calendars–are strong with this one, particularly through the strongly set off, attached lugs. This is a white gold case with character, and a strong one at that, but rich with many refined details, from the distinct angular strap horns, to the broad polished surfaces, particularly in the deliciously broad bezel that appeals to me in much the same way as the smooth bezels on the Rolex Explorer do. It’s an elegant and refined look, yet not overdone with bling. That…you’ll find on the case flanks, but tastefully so, where Patek’s trademark “Clous de Paris” hobnail lurks in a glorious 5-row high stack. These tiny, sharply defined diamonds of polished 18K gold reflect light play brilliantly, yet because of their location on the sides of the watch, are much more readily known to the wearer, than an observer from afar. Still, for the lucky one who has one of these buckled on, the complex contrasts create texture and intrigue and provide a delightful dichotomy against the comparative brute strength of the unusual and surprisingly sporty dial. At 41mm in diameter, the Ref. 5326 Annual Calendar is not a restrained dress Patek of old. Still, the diameter is appropriate to let the indications stretch their hands, so to speak, and the reasonably slim 11.7mm thickness means it’ll do no less ably in more formal environs.

The unusual granular dial is sure to divide people: Traditionalists of Patek Philippe may well feel it strangely rough and atypical of the classic and notably formal Patek Philippe opaline designs, while younger or more adventurous watch fans are sure to be refreshed by the interesting texture, and exotic vintage-inspired tonalities of burnt brown and ecru. That same sense of versatility and elegant sportiness is given further wings from the presence of impressive luminosity when the lights go down, courtesy of ample superluminova filling the white gold hands and Arabic hour plots. As you may have guessed, I’m squarely in the “fan camp”, finding the look of this model a welcome departure from the hyper-conservative Patek Philippe expectation, yet one that sacrifices none of the lasting aesthetic appeal a watch of this pedigree should have. Despite the unusual (but tasteful) dial, thanks to the overall design and intricate quality of the casework, the 5326G offers everything a Patek dress watch can muster. To reiterate my point at the start, this is one of those deeply memorable high horology pieces that has the rare combination of qualities that make it appropriate–and desirable–pretty much all the time, with the possible exception of aquatic adventure, where the 30m water resistance falls short of the requisite security most sensible buyers would be comfortable with. But beyond that constructive limitation, where couldn’t one love and enjoy the 5326G’s combination of rich materials, intricate textures, and inviting warm tones? And that’s even before considering the impressive mechanism that resides within, and what it offers, both technically and aesthetically.

(Luscious hand-applied Geneva waves, shapely finger bridges, and a platinum microrotor. The latter boosts winding efficiency nicely!)

A sapphire back is expected, and the view it delivers of the 31-260 (PS QA LU FUS 24H) caliber does not disappoint. Visually, the mechanism invokes the famous 240 microrotor caliber, but offers more to see than that stalwart, with classical Swiss separated “finger bridges” for the gear train exposing more of the inner secrets of power delivery. Deliciously broad Cotes de Geneve patterns give a tacit statement of the hand-finishing expertise involved; the anglage applied to the edges of the rhodium-plated bridges, while narrow, and not as deeply rounded as some competitors, is nonetheless attractive, and the baseplate sparkles with multiple sizes of perlage, a texture once applied to assist any errant dust from reaching the mechanism, but in an era of vastly better case sealing, becomes simply a charming thing to behold. The rotor, complete with the Calatrava cross and circular Geneva waves, is wrought from platinum–a material choice that is as notable for its winding efficiency, as much as any added prestige. The famous freely-sprung Gyromax balance is present, as expected, and should preserve the precision of the exacting 6-position adjustments the Patek Philippe watchmakers have given it, as it beats away at a modern 4Hz pulse. So, it’s clear that the 31-260 is a very nicely finished and constructed high horology movement, as you’d expect from this famous manufacture, yet, the devil is in the details of its 409 components, which unite to power an annual calendar as well as a backwards and forwards adjustable dual time display with day/night indication. Such was the challenge, that no less than eight patents define what lies behind the alluring, finely pebbled charcoal dial.

(View beneath the dial, showing the discs for day, month, date, moon phase, and dual day/night indication. 8 patents in all are behind it, and govern everything from practical functionality when crossing time zones, to protecting the mechanism from inadvertent damage)

The ultimate achievement of this movement, I think, is in its ability to convey the most useful supplementary information most of us would value, all while presenting a pleasing sense of serenity and simplicity. More and more in the frenzied hustle and bustle of the 21st century, I ask myself, does glancing down at (whichever) unnecessary mechanical watch happens to be on my wrist, add to…or detract from…my sense of calm and momentary presence? Can it transport me, as if by magic, to a place of order and harmony…even if only for a moment? This watch, as with so many classic Patek Philippe calendar watches of yesteryear, could pass that test with the most brilliant of flying colors! Despite telling us the day and month at the top of the dial, the phases of the moon inside the sub seconds dial at six, and the status of day/night indication in two time zones at once in two discreet and diminutive circular apertures, calm reigns in this impressively sophisticated complicated watch. Yet, and even better, it does this while retaining ease of operation. While the month and day/date are adjusted via classical caseband pushers (of which there are three) most of the hardest used functions, such as advancing the local hour hand in increments back or forwards, can be ideally operated via the crown, as a proper tool watch should. Did I just say “tool watch”?! Seems discordant where a fine Patek Philippe is concerned, but to a frequent world traveler or international professional, the 5326G certainly offers pleasing functionality fully equal to any more pedestrian options. And, unlike the sacrilege of using a priceless Kamakura-period katana to efficiently carve your turkey, or delimb an overgrown small tree, the team at Patek Philippe fully blesses your full-service use of this beautiful watch! They’ve clearly put a lot of thought into the well-heeled connoisseur who would use and cherish this rare but handy horological companion: just one example of this is the mechanism to drive the date change, now propelled directly by the local hour wheel, and significantly faster than any annual calendar reference previously offered. It assures that your calendar isn’t left too far behind (or ahead) as you switch the independently settable hour hand into a new time zone, a rather important detail. Yet, when you are relaxing in your own hemisphere, free from the hectic considerations of the business world, the skeletonized syringe hand representing home can remain discreetly tucked away beneath its primary white gold twin, returning us to the harmonious bliss hinted at earlier. Yet, OCD fanatics (and chronometry nerds) who delight in testing the precision of their watches against a reference time, will also appreciate that this innovative Patek Philippe movement also offers hacking seconds, for precise setting. A further nicety that speaks to the considerable refinements of the caliber is a reduction wheel that disconnects the auto-wind system during any time the piece is manually wound, saving just a little more wear and tear. Thoughtful, indeed, and clearly a watch designed by, and for, top notch watchmakers–another assurance that the heirloom status always expected of a Patek Philippe remains untarnished into the 21st century.

(Two supplied straps give the watch awesome versatility. In truth the 5326G will look amazing on many different straps!)

At the end of the day, the Reference 5326G is one of the all-around neatest watches to emerge from Patek Philippe in some time. To my way of thinking, it pays ample respect to the classic greatness of the fruitful era under Henri and Philippe Stern, while showing that heir to the throne Thierry has firmly grasped the scepter of rule to advance his own distinct vision of the house’s values. The fact that Patek is delivering these with two straps as standard procedure–the tan nubuck calf leather seen in the header, along with an additional embossed calf strap that looks shockingly like top-quality synthetic fabric–gives a hint of how much versatility was intended by the design team. All style-points aside, though, nothing about this piece deviates from the 183-year pursuit of watchmaking finesse and innovation that have propelled Patek Philippe to the summit of prestige in the Swiss high watchmaking hierarchy–and kept it there–despite very distinguished and capable competition.

(The white gold deployant clasp features the classic Calatrava cross of the Patek Philippe brand)

Patek Philippe 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo: A Dominant Bell Toll In The World Of The Minute Repeater Complication

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A intricate, unusual dial and bright orange strap hint that this minute repeater watch is far, far more than meets the ear!)

Among that elite circle of manufacturers known to produce the devilishly complex minute repeater complication, none are more widely celebrated than Patek Philippe.  Not just because of Patek Philippe’s long expertise in producing these exquisite and highly intricate chiming watches, but their fanatical attention to the sound quality produced by the chimes–itself a difficult acoustic mark to hit, and one affected by many factors, including the length and thickness of the gong springs, the way in which the hammers are adjusted to hit them, and the resonance properties of the case material and its constructive quirks.  Patek has spent many decades mastering this exquisite complication, and one could say they’ve made it a bit of a pleasantly fanatical pursuit to produce the best in class. Indeed, as is well known to many horological devotees, each and every Patek Philippe watch with minute repeater complication is presented to the company head (Thierry Stern, and before him, his father Philippe) who passes the final judgment on whether the product is ready for a discerning owner, or must go back to the master watchmaker’s bench for further minuscule adjustments.
 

(The slide-piece which starts the music is classically placed on the left side of the platinum case, ready to bring the chimes to life)

A quick visit to YouTube to listen to any number of Patek Philippe minute repeater watches of both old and more recent production quickly reveals just how good the brand is at “getting it right”–yet, despite this well-honed mastery, Patek Philippe continues to strive forward and take these aural pieces of horological delight to new levels. The watch we have here, just announced, is the Reference 5750P Fortissimo, and it promises to enrich the traditional minute repeater with innovative technology that will let the chimes of time sing with unparalleled beauty and sonority.  Even more fascinating, the clever acoustical solutions Patek Philippe has come up with negate the advantages (or disadvantages) of various case materials, once a surprisingly important factor in how bold–or muted–a minute repeater might sound to the human ear. That’s one reason that Patek Philippe has chosen to case this groundbreaking minute repeater watch in platinum–a material known to be particularly difficult from an acoustical standpoint.

(The forest of hand finished racks, cams, and other levers under the dial, all meticulously adjusted, control the strike sequence)

What do I mean? Well, denser materials such as platinum tend to absorb more sound than 18K gold, which in turn doesn’t amplify as well as somewhat less noble materials such as steel or titanium, all factors being equal.  Much like an Antonio Stradivari or Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu choosing the finest tone wood for the construction of a fine violin or cello, the materials chosen play a role in the ultimate effect of the completed instrument. Of course, additional gongs, larger gongs, or innovative case design can all play a role too, and Patek Philippe has gone all out to maximize all the factors in making the ultimate example of a chiming watch. Going back to our luthier example, for those who can appreciate the comparison, that might be the equivalent of the arching of the violin when the top and back are being created–those architectural choices, one way or the other, can impact the sonority of the completed, and strung-up violin, as well its ability to deliver a world class concert sound for years, even centuries, into the future.

At first glance, the base R27 movement appears familiar from other Patek Philippe minute repeating wristwatches such as the Ref. 5074 or 5078. But immediate differences from R27s seen in those watches are also readily observable, such as a new rotor in platinum, thinner than the previous 22K gold component yet equally efficient thanks to platinum’s greater density. Most obviously unique to this caliber, however, is the curious forked apparatus traveling from the case edge and gongs, through the jewel settings of the black-polished repeater hammers and terminating in a circular component. This part, a key aspect of the acoustical amplification of this movement is the highly sensitive sound lever, a direct conduit from the vibrating gongs to an nearly invisible sapphire crystal oscillating wafer with a razor thin thickness of just 0.2 millimeter. This sapphire component, part of the several patented elements in this Advanced Research caliber, is attached to–and works with the transmitting sound lever, and a special titanium ring with several cutouts hidden from view–to boost the sound transmission multiple fold over what a standard minute repeater might be capable. The slightly added height this arrangement gave to the R27PS caliber also helps explain the choice for the thinner platinum microrotor I mentioned earlier–every millimeter of added movement height counts in high horology, and Patek Philippe was not about to make the Advanced Research Fortissimo anything less than an elegant, relatively slender wristwatch.

How much additional sonority does the Fortissimo Module in the Ref. 5750 deliver? Well, Patek Philippe claims a six-fold increase: that is, the dulcet tones of this one can be heard clearly sixty meters away, compared to approximately ten from anything else they’ve produced. That seems impressive indeed, in fact, maybe even slightly more potent than optimal, given the blue-blooded discretion that you’d suspect a typical minute repeater client might normally crave. That said, have no fear–Thierry Stern and his team at Patek have made two other modifications which soothe the near-operatic vocal cords of the Ref. 5750 to a volume befitting the utmost in patrician sensibility. First, Patek Philippe opted for an unusual selection of platinum for the repeater hammers over the standard polished steel, for reasons that the weight and density of the former yield an ultimately softer peal when hitting the gongs. Secondly, and notably, the tempo of a time-strike sequence has been extended for a several second period compared to that of previous Patek Philippe minute repeaters, to allow for a bit more sonic expansion both between hammer strikes, and at the conclusion of the sequence. Of course, at no time will these many refined technical tricks be more enjoyable than at the magical minute repeater “Witching Hour” of 12:59, when the listener is greeted to the always reverential sequence of twelve individual low tones, three high-low combinations for the quarter hours, and an additional nineteen high tones for the remaining individual minutes of the hour.

Yes, the 5750 Advanced Research is a triumphal masterpiece, and represents the best of what Patek Philippe can offer. It’s easy to forget truly wondrous pieces like this amidst the never-ending chatter about the latest Nautilus variant, and the newest sanity-bending sales price for it at one auction venue or another. At 40mm in diameter, this platinum beauty–complete with the signature round brilliant set between the 6 o’clock case lugs as you’d expect–is a contemporary classic already fit to join the rarified company of other Patek minute repeaters produced in years prior. Yet, the Fortissimo has been given some unique details that give it a character unlike any of its siblings. Chalk that up to its saucy orange alligator strap and striking silvered dial with skeletonized lozenge motif; the same detail is echoed on the platinum microrotor’s decoration, and is intended to evoke the spokes of a classic roadster. The dial pattern sort of winks and hints at the engineering brilliance that’s embodied in this classic masterpiece, which is watchmaking artistry on the highest level, no matter how you slice it. The 5750P’s retail price is appropriately high at over half a million dollars, and honestly, watches like this are among the few that can actually justify such Olympian price tags. Only fifteen will be made, and I hope it is the truest of true blue Patek Philippe faithful who acquire these to enjoy and yes…wear. Not just for themselves mind you, but their very blessed descendants as well, just as the historic Genevan manufacturer would intend.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5905/1A-001: Why Lust Over A Green Nautilus When You Can Get This? (Maybe.)

Posted on by Adam Keith
(“Ahh..Nautilus Schmotilus.” The green-dialed 5905/1A-001 fetchingly combines chronograph with annual calendar)

Few events in recent times within the watch community got the resounding collective gasp that the auction sale of a sealed Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus with the new green dial did, not for mere three or four times its list price, but at a nosebleed-inducing, excruciatingly eye-popping sum of approximately USD $471,000. To be clear, a figure some ten times the list price. While the carefree days of being able to contact your Patek Philippe retailer and stroll in to buy a Nautilus at retail, with no significant purchase history, have been over for many a year now, this represented a new level of luxury largess, even obscenity to some, but the results couldn’t be denied. If you weren’t sure before, you certainly knew now: The Nautilus is clearly the world’s hottest high luxury sports watch, and in the upper echelon of buyers, there are few ceilings customers aren’t willing to crash through to put one on their wrist, or more likely, multi-million dollar sealed bank vault treasure trove. And the new, mesmerizing green dial just drove that luxury lust a notch higher…quite a bit higher, very apparently.

So, what about the many true acolytes of Patek Philippe not quite in the billionaire bracket, or pining horological aficionados who wanted a sporty stainless steel watch from the great Genevan manufacturer, and had scrimped to gather the not inconsiderable funds? You might say, those who adored the Nautilus with it’s verdant dial–and were ready to buy if only they could–but could only watch in barely concealed, bitter disillusionment? At last a watch has arrived that may, to some extent scratch the specific itch that only a Patek Philippe in stainless steel can, and while I’m sure it’ll be anything but easy to acquire, it should be a lot more so than anything from the Genta-inspired Family of the Porthole. I’m talking of course about the beautiful new 5905/1A-001 Annual Calendar Chronograph! Sort of a fetching blend between the Aquanaut and the Calatrava, this watch hits some very pleasant notes in its combined qualities, offering a nice alternative that says success, an appreciation for the exceptional, but also departs from the madding crowd…however alluring that entourage’s siren song may be.

At 42mm and just over 14mm in height, it’s clear this watch is no svelte Calatrava ready to disappear under the tight French cuff. However, the sparkling green 5905/1A should be very, very wearable for many, and look exceptional during the experience. Much of that can be owed to the sensual, flowing lines of the case, and pivoting end link bracelet in brushed and polished steel that allows a tidy, more discreet drape over a broader array of wrist sizes than an alternative design might. The richly shaded green dial, dark but not overly so, has a lovely radial brushed pattern that will catch the light in superb fashion– likely quite explosively in an outdoors setting, yet elegantly and subtle indoors, appearing almost black at certain angles. The white gold hands, in a style reminiscent of Dauphine styles but somewhat more modern, gleam seductively, offset against their companion dial markers that show off multiple facets in the manner of many classic PP dress references. Legibility of the annual calendar displays is superb too, and well known from other watches in the brand’s stable which utilize the same mechanism. Day of the week, date, and month arc preside harmoniously over the upper hemisphere without dominating the dial, and grant the user a lot of useful information that will surely (and perhaps hopefully) reduce their glances at a soulless smartphone for similar information.

(A glimpse of the underdial works for the annual calendar, complete with day/night indication)

The chronograph complication, with its central seconds and single counter for elapsed hours, is exceedingly clean and enables this fairly complex Patek Philippe to take on the role of a sporty yet effectively dressy watch with real aplomb. If you enjoy playing with your chronograph function–and I would certainly hope you would if something like this will likely grace your wrist–the chronograph has flyback capability, enabling you to toggle it repeatedly rather than interrupting the flow by having to stop the central hand in between sequences. An additional, discrete circular cutout, at the bottom of the 60-minutes counter reveals whether the time on the dial is AM or PM, precluding any setting mishaps of the annual calendar mechanism, whose adjustments are partially governed by a set of three pushers discreetly inset into the non-crown side of the case band.

(A lovely and familiar sight on a selfwinding PP, the 21K gold rotor shows the brand’s famed Calatrava Cross)

While nothing absolutely new, the CH 28‑520 QA 24H caliber is a technically accomplished and modernistic high-end watchmaking engine. While the hardcore collectors while inevitably gravitate to Patek Philippe’s exquisite handwound chronograph movements (be they the in-house crop, or the heavily refined classic Lemania bases of old) the more modern and efficient vertical-clutch automatic calibers such as this are arguably the practical choice. Technical specs are well known and appreciated, but the vertical clutch engagement assures smooth chronograph action without unsightly seconds hand jump (and minimal wear to the mechanism, amongst other virtues). Too, the classic column wheel controlling the start-return to zero-stop and start-stop-return to zero functions offers a crisp and notably more precise experience than would be the case with most easier to produce cam and shuttle alternatives.

Finishing is beautiful, as you would expect from a Patek Philippe caliber, with circular Cotes de Geneve on the bridges, various sizes of perlage on the plates, and brushed finishes on steel parts, as well as black polished screws and other nuanced touches. The iconic freely sprung Gyromax balance pays homage to several generations of Patek Philippe watches dating to the 1950s, and suggests the precision that this watch is capable of. The movement, as do all modern Patek references, bears the mildly controversial Patek Philippe Seal, Patek’s own in-house certification of their adjustment, finishing and decorative standards. It has been some time since the self-applied accolade supplanted the classic independently-awarded Poinçon de Genève hallmark, a pretty elite standard which only a few Geneva houses, such as their distinguished cross-town competitor Vacheron Constantin, could achieve with any regularity. Once fully powered up, the mainspring will offer a goodly 55 hours before stopping, so the owner can certainly give other watches in the collection some wrist time without fear their shimmering green dialed annual calendar will come to a halt in the interim.

(Patek Philippe’s press photo shows the double deployant folding clasp, with twin-trigger releases for smooth on and off from the wrist)

Sometimes the interstate rather less traveled is a great place to be. Even though it may not be the unicorn Nautilus 5711/1A so many are obsessed with, the competition for this Patek Philippe watch at dealers should still be pretty fierce. Nonetheless, a sports watch with classical form from one of the hallowed brands could certainly be a worthy goal for the seasoned collector or passionate watch lover, and with patience you may just get it. Some say a grail is something one can never truly have. But how much fun is that? Something that’s hard to have but possible if you’re well and truly lucky…well, that just might be the sweet spot. And with a list price of just over 51,000 Euros, this one seems quite the bargain–at least compared to a green Nautilus, anyway!

“WTF??” Abominable Hybrid Of Great Seagoing Luxury Watches…Or Worthy Novelty: This Cthulhu Mythos For The Wrist Throws A Tentacle Slap Across The Faces Of AP, And Patek Philippe

Posted on by Adam Keith
(What the hell is going on here?? Wait a minute….yup, they really went and did *that*)

“Hybrid children watch the sea…pray for father roaming free.”  So goes one of the most hair-raising and spooky verses from Metallica’s Lovecraftian-themed “The Thing That Should Not Be” in their 1986 Master Of Puppets album.  The foreboding intonation about Cthulhu’s spawn seems to apply just a bit to this jaw-dropping, provocative horological monstrosity…which likewise, might also be something terrible to behold.  Yet, like the hideous and supremely powerful Great Old One, the two watches which spawned it were intended for a life at sea, both with bezels inspired by ship portholes. Of course, both luxury legends also sprang into existence out of the fertile, creative mind of the late Gerald Genta, arguably the most celebrated watch designer in history.   

(Gerald Genta and two of his greatest designs, the AP Royal Oak and PP Nautilus)

So I guess fathers (plural) would be more fitting, but you get the idea: this concept piece by the shadowy brand “Genius Watches” is a literal 50/50 joining of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus designs, watches which are so similar in certain ways, with a shared lineage, yet so, so different.  Who’d have ever thought somebody would have thought to hybridize these two superstars, who shared a genesis from Mr. Genta during the 1970s?? But if you’d ever wondered, here it is, at least in theory, with half of its dial having the Royal Oak’s grande tapisserie waffle pattern, and half the horizontally striated Nautilus dial; the bezel, too, shows the similar yet distinctly differing porthole approach of both houses in equal measure, part having the hexagonal screws of the AP contender, and the other being barren of such decor in the way of Patek Philippe. Continuing the theme, the upper half of the bracelet reproduces the Nautilus integrated bracelet, with the lower showing the distinctly different form AP is known for. (One thing that both its “fathers” have–but it won’t be getting–is a particularly refined or rare movement, instead relying on a workhorse Sellita base.) The price of this provocation, while nowhere even near the galaxy of an AP Royal Oak or Patek Philippe Nautilus in any metal, will still reportedly set you back slightly more than a steel Omega Seamaster 300m Diver, a value proposition that is…assuredly questionable, to put it politely. But then again, what price can one put on a good, hardcore luxury trolling session these days?

This thing is wild, upsetting, humorous, and scandalous. I don’t love it–and I don’t see how I ever could. In fact, I quite loathe it. BUT, I must admit that I do admire how brash the creator is, even if they aren’t being particularly original beyond the process of creating discord and keeping discussion lively. A look at the cryptic Genius Watches website shows that this seems to be exactly the creative inspiration though, so draw from that what you will.  Let’s face it, as much as we love the powerhouse high luxury brands–and AP and PP are both at the pinnacle of that elite group–the hype has become excessive…so, maybe, just maybe, a little comic relief at their expense now and again will keep us watch geeks from taking things so seriously. (Doubtful, that.) And, according to scuttlebutt from around the web, the watch has received no blessings from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, or the estate of Genta, so one may assume it will likely receive a firing squad death of lawsuits-as-bullets from every direction before it even sees the light of day. Or, the sand of a beach. As it crawls from the depths…or, whatever. We shall see!

Patek Philippe Ref. 6119: Maintaining The Calatrava’s Eternally Elegant Recipe In Delicious Fashion

Posted on by Adam Keith

Almost two decades ago, at an age just smart enough to understand price, but too foolish to understand value, I was fortunate enough to acquire a Patek Philippe 5107R Calatrava. It was my first truly exceptional watch, and it represented something magical for me: an intersection of brand greatness, legendary design continuity, and movement workmanship at the high level. I cherished it, until I later on became tempted with other watches, and sold it off to fund those dalliances in things which ticked. A bad case of sellers remorse, despite it going to the best of homes? Oh yes, and that would be only one of many I have had over the years, but at least I had been able to experience one of the handful of true horological legends. When people think of exceptional complications, they often think of Patek Philippe first–yet, the storied Geneva brand associated with so many famous owners and appreciators also comes to mind when elegant simplicity is considered, as the Calatrava collection has really defined the round gentleman’s wristwatch since 1932, when the Reference 96 debuted.

(A vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava, Ref. 96)

There have been many legendary references, though, some hand-wound like the 96 and its current honorable predecessor and others (like the aforementioned 5107) with automatic winding movements. While no bad choice can be made in the Calatrava lineup, my heart tells me that if I ever get a chance to don one again, said Calatrava would have to be manual wind, without date display, to be in the spirit of its ancestor. With that established, Patek Philippe has created something wonderful with their 2021 introduction, the References 6119G and 6119R, in white and rose gold respectively. Deceptively simple, yet with a potent visual presence, and each metal having its own distinct character thanks to differing finishing textures, the 6119 also boasts a new, slightly larger 39mm case–giving the classic dress watch form greater capability for everyday wear.

The opaline dial of the rose gold model is the classic, warmer choice of the two, while the vertically grained one in the white gold is discreet, icily beautiful, and glittering with nuance. In either, a fine sector division at the seconds subdial, a railroad track minute section, and multiply faceted hands and hour markers in polished 18K gold create a glittering feast of varied light play and details to admire. Crowning these dial fireworks is a hobnailed guilloched bezel as iconic for PP as the fluted one is for Rolex, and it creates another sublime light play which changes quite dramatically according to the type and quantity cast upon it. I simply adore the hobnail bezel on this new model, and it pairs impeccably with these exquisite dials.

Of course, a Patek Philippe watch is as much about what’s inside, as it is a showcase of timeless style. And here, watch lovers should find a lot to rejoice about. Rather than shoehorn an old, smaller diameter movement into the case with a spacer ring and call it a day–something some have found a bit egregious with the 37mm Ref. 5196’s relatively undersized 215PS that was mercifully hidden by a solid caseback–Patek Philippe here created a proper brand new caliber, and a fine one it is!

(The new 39mm case…and a proper, larger diameter movement to fill it! Thickness is a scant 2.5mm, however.)

Dubbed 30-255 PS (PS = “petite seconde“), this caliber fully fills the 39mm gold case of its host, offers a sensuous structure of swooping bridges adorned with traditional haute de gamme finishing, and gives a significant power reserve upgrade compared to predecessors. That would be a full 65 hours in fact, thanks to double mainspring barrels. These mainspring barrels, which unwind in like measure through the reserve, also give the mechanism a very strong dose of torque, contributing further to excellent chronometric precision from full wind to near stop. All I can say is, I’d spend a lot of time looking at this caliber through the caseback as it’s very pretty in form and decoration, and a lot of the gear train is visible as well: hardcore loupe-lookers and macro photography masochists might argue that beveling and details are not quite at Lange level, (or maybe even modern Vacheron Constantin) but that’s picking pretty pettily at straws, and merit is dubious. I do find myself wistfully wishing the escape wheel bridge had a black polished cap, though, just like the classic, simple Patek Philippe movements from the 1940s, 50s, or 60s did, but as a total package, this watch–and its movement–is a cohesive powerhouse of high luxury excellence, Bauhaus design perfection, and watchmaking prowess.

Patek Philippe prices have become a bitter pill to swallow in recent years, like all of the most sought after brands. It’s hard to believe those halcyon days of the late 90s or early 2000s when an equivalent Patek Philippe reference might have sold new at an authorized dealer for ten to twelve thousand or so. Not so, now: this one will set you back $29,570 Yankee dollars, and at that lofty price, there is plenty of worthy competition from brands like the aforementioned A. Lange or Vacheron Constantin, as well as new upstarts like the exceptional Genevan maker Laurent Ferrier. F.P. Journe and H. Moser, as well as others, would stand in this elite company, as well. Still, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 6119 is one of those hallowed watches that combines everything you could want in a way few others can. And beyond that comprehensive excellence, the Calatrava will never go out of style, will always be coveted, and be a collection cornerstone to never get rid of…no matter what. (Ask me how I know!) Now I reckon it’s time to just quell that butthurt over those long-ago silly decisions and get a GoFundMe going to put a 6119G on my wrist, so I can have that second chance! 😉

A Grande Finale AP Royal Oak Jumbo, a Complicated Patek Philippe Table Clock, And Other Standouts Of Only Watch 2021

Posted on by Adam Keith

The annual Only Watch charity event provides a spectacular showcase for the finest–yet simultaneously most diverse–in horology each year, with independents and brands alike producing exceptional and unforgettable “Pièces Uniques” that go to auction in Monaco for the good cause of battling Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). There are many beauties already announced for 2021, and I wanted to illuminate just a handful of the standouts amongst many. Before I do so, I should point out that the single thing I love the most about the Only Watch event offerings, is how wonderfully wide-ranging the offered watches are, running the gamut from classic and stately, to wild and fun, with movements breathakingly complicated and refreshingly simple–it is a veritable smorgasbord of diversity from great watchmaking houses all across the spectrum in size and public visibility. To someone looking in, the event is a fabulous slideshow of just how extensive the watchmaking universe really is, and an opportunity to appreciate the most special and rare of timepieces. I wish I had the time to share them all, but I’ll hit some highlights that spoke loudest (to me)…

Pulling no punches at all, Patek Philippe floored me with their announcement of this keywound, complicated table clock! Despite the masterful in-house designed and manufactured movement with a perpetual calendar showing day, date, month, leap year, moon phase, and calendar week, as well as power reserve for the 31 day autonomy, this creation is just as notable for its rich Art Deco ornamentation and the luxurious appointments, which include hand-decorated sterling silver, gold, and select American walnut. The harmony and complexity of this piece are stunning, and suggest what we already know: this will grace one hell of a desk of power, whose owner has the means to acquire whatever his or her heart desires. Fittingly to that last point, the Only Watch 2021 desk clock was modeled after another watch lover of this description, automobile baron James Ward Packard, who was famed as an avid collector of complicated and rare Patek Philippes, and had a similar piece delivered to him in 1923. Interestingly, Packard’s great rival in Patek Philippe collecting, banker Henry Graves, Jr–who of course won the one-upmanship game going on with Packard after getting his eponymous Supercomplication in 1933–had a unique Patek Philippe table clock of his own, too. (Of course he did.) Bottom line: the historical lineage of this Patek Philippe clock is simply irresistible, and what an utterly amazing object of art, horology, and miniature architecture it is!

Going in a totally different direction towards the popular sports watch, Blancpain is offering up another tantalizing variant of its eternally gorgeous Fifty Fathoms dive watch, which I’ll admit I wish wasn’t limited to a single example.

This particular Blancpain Fifty Fathoms variant grabs your eyeballs by the proverbial collar thanks to an extensive and potent use of orange superluminova material throughout the sapphire capped luminous dive bezel, and the dial. This use of orange, which also extends to the famous and historically fascinating “No Radiations” mark at 6 o’clock, honors the color theme of this year’s Only Watch auction, and in my opinion, looks absolutely smashing on the classic Fifty Fathoms. Turning the watch over shows off a characteristically finely decorated F. Piguet 1151 movement with blackened gold winding mass much in the style of other Fifty Fathoms models, but with a special motif highlighting the Only Watch association, as well as the words “Piece Unique” on the edge of the caseback, in case you weren’t satisfied that yours will be the only one in existence.

Among more obscure artist brands, Atelier de Chronometrie announced this absolutely breathtaking watch (the modestly named AdC21) which reminds me of some of the observatory watches of the 1940s–hardly a surprise, I guess, as the young yet highly talented, artisanal brand from Barcelona has built their star on creating pieces that represent the best in the vintage wristwatch era, to the extent of even using fine, old stock calibers as base movements–which they then rework extensively.

The rose gold case of the AdC21, largely handmade in the shop, looks ravishing. It frames up the similarly golden toned sector dial, which shows off curved sword hands in rose gold, as well as a fire blued seconds hand for just that one delightfully rich pop of notable color contrast. As stylish and classic as all of this may be, the real show can be seen behind the exhibition caseback, where a slow beat, handwound movement with an indirectly driven center seconds function ticks in stately 18,000 vph fashion.

The finish and attention to detail of this movement, as in the past with earlier creations, can only be described as a labor of love. I’m not certain which vintage caliber ADC used as the base–I know they’ve used vintage handwound Omega calibers in some earlier debuts–but as always, the tiny team of watchmakers pulled out all the stops, from the chamfers on the bridges, to the finish on the flanks and tooth profiles of the wheels in the gear train. The result is clearly exceptional in every way. Only Watch or not, this kind of dedicated virtuosity makes me very interested in Atelier de Chronometrie and, their (hopefully bright) prospects for the years to come.

Bright and bold colors, a practical complication, and a refreshing sense of freedom and fun bring the Speake-Marin’s One & Two Dual Time seen just above to life. I find myself really engrossed with the contrasts and striking look of this GMT piece in everything from the three dimensional multi-layered dial with explosions of orange, yellow and red, to the skeletonized cutout showing some of the underlying mechanism. Of all the orange-themed watches I’ve seen–again, this color has been selected as the official visual theme of Only Watch 2021–this one seems to use it among the most effectively, and interestingly. While the brand is not quite as endearing to me as when Peter himself was at the helm, this is still a very impressive piece tilted towards the avant garde–definitely not one to be slid surreptitiously under a dress cuff!

And, taking us back to familiar and hallowed territory, is this sensational interpretation of what is arguably Audemars Piguet’s single most iconic single watch – the reverential Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Always coveted, now exceptionally expensive to acquire, AP’s thinnest and most fundamental Royal Oak can get any watch enthusiast practically salivating, regardless of metal and dial combination. How about this then?

Limited to a single piece for the Only Watch cause, it’s wrought from a jaw-droppingly cool combination of satin blasted titanium and polished bulk metallic glass–a material sharing characteristics of other glass formulations, but also being an alloy of palladium, one that offers a fascinating combination of strength and exceptional polishability; in this case, the small links and signature octagonal bezel of the Royal Oak both feature use of this material. The press photos are tantalizing, but I can’t wait to see live photos of it! Sadly, this materially cutting edge, yet delightfully understated interpretation will be the very last iteration of the 15202 before the historic Royal Oak Jumbo model–along with its legendary ultra-slim JLC based movement–is retired by AP in favor of more modern references of the Royal Oak, with modern AP mechanical hearts beating in them. In homage to this point, the dial features the classic hobnail pattern and the marquee and brand signature in the same orientation as the original Reference 5402 Jumbo from the 1970s. The great Jumbo will be missed, but ah, what a grande finale this one is!