Author: Adam Keith

Zenith Defy Skyline: High Frequency Watchmaking That Channels The 1970s

Posted on by Adam Keith

Manufacture Zenith = El Primero = Hi-Beat Chronograph. Right? Well, yes, but not necessarily always. “Say…what?” Ok, bear with me here. On the one hand, Zenith is rightly celebrated for being an innovative chronograph manufacture, with one of the most historically significant high frequency chrono caliber families to date, and one which provided a base for Rolex’s selfwinding Daytona Cosmograph before Big Green brought out their mighty manufacture 4130. It’s what Zenith is known for to watch aficionados, and rightly so. At the same time, Zenith does, and historically speaking long did, make simpler watches. As of this year, examples of those non-chronograph watches now bring to bear the same rapidly pulsating mechanical wizardry of their more complex brethren, which brings us to the new Defy Skyline here. Sure to raise eyebrows and provoke discussion, Zenith has seen fit to introduce styling and finishes that will provide possibly tempting–and importantly, actually obtainable–alternatives to 1970s legends like the impossible to get Patek Philippe Nautilus, the nearly-impossible to get Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the getting-close-to-impossible Vacheron Constantin Overseas. What’s more, the dials in these Zenith watches have a visceral mechanical life that the more expensive competition can’t quite match for drama, thanks to….yes, a rapidly thundering 1/10th second subsidiary second display!

Comparisons between those aforementioned Big Boys are inevitable, but is that really such a bad thing? Gerald Genta certainly created designs of gargantuan lasting power in the 1970s, and after outgrowing a very short period of acceptance, the iconic “portholes with integrated bracelets” he wrought for the Holy Trinity of Watchmaking have gone on to become not just the pinnacle of 1970s luxury sports watch design, but the very archetype for luxury…period. While not a Genta design, the well known (and now quite collectible) Rolex Oysterquartz family borrowed heavily from the same design language, and few criticized Rolex for flattering Genta with such sincere imitation. Besides, Zenith’s original Defy models, first seen on the market in the late 1960s–and offered again as a tribute model of its own–indeed preceded the Royal Oak and Nautilus to market, their angular bezels perhaps even inspiring Genta in some way to create his famous designs in the short years to come. As the pictures show, the Defy Skyline has that familiar 70s magic, from the angular bezel, the complex yet sturdy bracelet with alluring facets and sumptuous brushing, and dials that captivate as much with rich texture as vibrant and bold color. It’s a winning formula, and Zenith has reached into their storied past with respect, yet modernized their original Defy concept for contemporary expectations of luxurious appointment.

The stainless steel case is 41mm across, a span well in keeping with modern tastes, yet it deftly avoids the excess measurements that might doom it to the fate of becoming an eventual garish fashion statement. A reasonable twelve millimeters tall from sapphire back to sapphire crystal, this is also a watch that will fulfill a wide spectrum of sartorial demands, while being a stylish player with any of them. The contrasting brushed and polished finishes are absolutely eye-catching, as are the distinctive dials complete with a subtle yet alluring star-patterning which echoes the famous Zenith brand symbol gleaming below the baton twelve o’clock hour marker. That index, like its companions around the dial edge, is finely polished and strikes a pleasing dialogue with the faceted baton hands, all showing plenty of Superluminova for a satisfying glow when light gets scarce. An absolutely fantastic user capability of the Zenith Defy is a quick-change strap system at the lugs that allows nearly effortless swaps between the tapered integral bracelet with a butterfly-type deployant clasp, and alternative straps. Let it be said that you don’t need to order extras either, unless you wish to: Zenith supplies an attractively matched rubber strap with each Defy timepiece, blue for the blue dial, black for the black version, and a nice khaki toned one for the dressiest silver variant. This is definitely going to be an instance of some watch-buying indecision, as each of the dials have plenty of charm and panache. I’m personally torn between the blue and black for this multi-faceted Defy timepiece, but I certainly wouldn’t kick the silver out of bed. Between the bracelet and straps, any of the Defy Skyline models are supremely versatile companions, and with a healthy 100m water resistance rating, they can accompany you pretty much anywhere, no matter the season.

(As with newer sports watches from AP and Vacheron Constantin, a quick strap change system means effortless swaps between bracelet and strap)

Aesthetics aside, the Defy Skyline has quite the eyebrow-raising automatic movement, especially for a simple three handed watch with date. Naturally manufactured by Zenith (as if there were any other way!), the caliber 3620 serves up a robust 60 hours of power reserve, an impressive feat considering the energy hunger that surely drives the rapidly pulsing balance wheel rocking two and fro 36,000 times each hour. Strange to see this oscillator outside of a chronograph application, it directly powers the small but mighty subsidiary seconds hand that moves in ten blistering steps on the dial each second, and gives a uniquely animated feel to what otherwise would be a fairly sedate, no-fuss sports watch. Decorative nuances are fairly spare–this is a high quality but industrially finished caliber–but it makes a pleasant impression, and if you like star themes (the rotor is a big one, to cue the brand’s marquee) and some heat-treated blue screws, you’ll enjoy what you see through the exhibition back. But ultimately, the main thing is Zenith’s unwavering commitment to a high performance fast beat movement, and the materials and lubricants needed to support the reliable operation of it for years to come. Even better, you get to see the fruits of that high frequency innovation every day as you look at the time, somehow calm and subtly frenetic all at the same time. The fact that said 1/10th second bravura comes without a chronograph complication makes it an enticingly odd standout amongst its peers, and the WIS in me rejoices at that. At $8,400, the Zenith Defy Skyline is not exactly cheap, but with heritage, striking finishing, and a movement that offers something fresh, this series is worth a serious look for a daily wear with flair for the exotic–as well as ties to a brand with deep history in the annals of Swiss mechanical watchmaking.

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Is A Stunner In New Titanium And Blue Guise

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A Patek 5070P it isn’t, but no apologies are needed. Like that legend, this is a gorgeous two-counter blue chronograph!)

Say what you will about Blancpain, but the small manufacture from the idyllic little farmhouse in Le Brassus can certainly put the color blue to fabulous work. As with the previously discussed Bathyscaphe for Bucherer, this Air Command chronograph injects resplendent, beautiful blue into what is otherwise an already very appealing chronograph both inside and out. The result is a superb high horology wristwatch with interesting mechanical capabilities and a charming vintage-inspired design enhanced by razor sharp color and contrasting textures. One could even argue, somewhat convincingly, that this Blancpain watch represents pretty solid watchmaking value for its luxury asking price in our odd times of hyper-priced luxury. But more about that shortly. Let’s discuss the glamorous, newly attired Air Command Flyback in more detail, and see what makes it a standout.

(The coveted 2019 edition of the Air Command, next to its far rarer 1950s predecessor)

Fans of Blancpain and chronographs in general will find the piece immediately familiar in form and layout. It shares the same fundamentals in size, flyback chronograph functionality, and movement form the 500-piece limited edition Air Command Flyback Ref. AC01 1130 63A, which saw introduction in 2019 and quickly sold out…now of course available on the secondary market from time to time, at well above its retail price. That watch, as an aside, represented a quite faithful reproduction of an exceedingly rare semi-prototype Blancpain pilot’s chronograph from the 1950s, but it brought to the table an impressively modern self-winding caliber produced by the Manufacture Blancpain and complete with such niceties as column wheel switching, a vertical clutch for stutter-free operation of the start stop and return sequences, and a freely sprung balance wheel in silicon. Being a flyback chronograph gave this rendition of a pilot’s watch extra gravitas and meant that, just as in days of old when such things were in fact instruments of genuine necessity, our hypothetical pilot could trigger the crisply actuated chronograph repeatedly without a stop in between, keeping measurements in moments of airborne daredevilry just a little bit easier.

(Restrained but sublime haute de gamme finishing, and uncompromising technical details throughout define the F388B movement)

The titanium blue beauty here does all the same, and is animated by the same F388B mechanism, although the massive central rotor in 18K gold is a little more spare compared to the charmingly thematic plane propeller version inside the coveted steel sibling. Rather than stainless steel, the case of this Air Command is manufactured from an extremely unusual and very high grade of titanium, which the brand has also seen fit to promote in its revised Fifty Fathoms collection. Reserved for very specific applications–surgical/dental implantation, and certain aircraft components being two of the notables–Grade 23 titanium is costlier than, and superior to, other titanium alloys in many respects, to include corrosion resistance, ductile strength and durability. It has a lovely color, and although very difficult to work due to its extremely hard properties, takes a beautiful and lasting polish. That polish is something that Blancpain has lavished with tasteful care here and there, just enough to bring out a bit of glamour, without overpowering the ethos of the fundamental pilot’s tool. The clean and elegant case frames a dial which should satisfy the cravings of the most hopeless addicts of blue dialed watches! Displaying a radial sunburst pattern, this dial will be an absolute stunner in the sun, as well as offering a lot of polychromatic depth in indoor settings. This handsome effect is contrasted well by clear and functional luminous Arabic numbers that forego any faux-aged sort of syndrome, as do the polished white gold hands. This is a spectacular canvas for the time display, yet immediately legible at any time, and beautifully presented in the classic two-counter (or bicompax, if you prefer) manner. Blancpain’s decision to keep dial text minimal is to be applauded, too, as is the choice of a sapphire capped luminous bezel that is deliciously thin and unobtrusive, yet a delight to the eye in both color and luster, to say nothing of being a lovely treat when the lights run low. True to a pilot’s watch functionality, said bezel rotates in both directions, giving you yet another timer on top of your chronograph to play with.

(The pump pushers…the cambered box profile sapphire glass..the contrasting finishes. Subtle details abound!)

The movement checks a lot of important boxes for me. First, it is an exclusive mechanism, recognizing that the Manufacture Blancpain and Frederic Piguet have been intimately cojoined for a long time now. It is beautifully finished as all modern Blancpain calibers are, with particular mention to the absolutely sumptuous anglage on the edge of every bridge, as well as the rather technical looking yet still very cool grey finished 18K gold rotor. As on the bridges of movements seen in the Fifty Fathoms line, a lack of typical Geneva stripes in favor of a grained texture is clever, and eschews the typical expectations for a “high luxury” movement, while giving up nothing in terms of visual appeal–especially in a watch with such sporting aspirations. Vertically rather than horizontally clutched for efficiency, this chronograph nonetheless has a classic column wheel to satisfy purists who demand only best in construction and resultant crisp pusher feel, and the balance wheel is both freely sprung and mounted on a bridge; these features combined with the fine adjustment Blancpain performs–a full six positions rather than a typical luxury watch standard of five–and you have a very high performance, yet sturdy and resilient, complicated movement. Adding to this menu of excellence is an uber-rapid balance frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, meaning that not only is the chronograph central hand possessed of scarcely bested smoothness of sweep, it provides the capability of timing precision to the nearest 1/10th of a second. With all of these points considered together, its clear you have a truly wonderful automatic chronograph movement ticking inside, carrying the high-beat allure of famous competition such as Zenith and Grand Seiko, with the superior finishing of amongst the best of the manufacture level, to include lofty competition like Audemars Piguet and even Patek Philippe, at least as far as more typical volume watches (such as the annual calendar chronographs) from that esteemed brand go. Fear not those precision-destroying magnetic fields either, as the Air Command benefits from the same amagnetic silicon hairspring technology as other esteemed Swatch Group siblings such as Omega and Breguet. Yes, the F388B is a chronograph movement which is beautiful and luxurious, yet high on real world practicality and chronometric excellence. Maybe you can have it all, after all?

(You can obtain the Air Command Flyback in red gold too, which looks stunning paired with blue!)

Topped off by a supple blue calfskin strap that spices it up with bold white stitching, Blancpain’s Air Command Flyback Chronograph in titanium is a companion redolent of class and charm, while offering some serious muscle behind the sapphire caseback. This is a world class high luxury chronograph without any doubt, and at around $18,500 (US) dollars, the price asked seems more than reasonable when compared against some of the aforementioned big competition. Yes, the retail price is well above an El Primero from Zenith, mind you, but then again, so is the finishing, and that’s a big part of the pricing where high horology is concerned. (Being a Blancpain, it’s also likely that “the number” probably isn’t the number, especially if you ask the lovely folks at the boutique nicely.) And, should you want an even more opulent presentation for this watch’s radiant blue two-counter chronograph dial, Blancpain has you covered there: a red gold variant is available which is gorgeous indeed, as colored golds and blue go together about as well as any two things ever. With the exception of a red gold rotor to match the case, and a price tag some $10,000 greater, it’s the same great timepiece.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 42 Limited Edition In White Gold: Stealth Wealth Luxury Diver Of Subtle Distinction

Posted on by Adam Keith

I’ll make no bones about it. We no longer reside in the relaxed atmosphere of 2006, where it seemed the louder one’s luxury watch was, the better. With the maelstrom of world events, economic turbulence, and steep price hikes in recent years, my own favorite luxury watches have ever increasingly become those with a more subdued presence. This is even more the case when we’re discussing an already world famous design or prestige brand flagship which is well known; depending on the fame of said watch design, you may not entirely escape the public’s attention (desired or otherwise), but certain variant or metal choices choices will keep your love of achingly dear horology a more private affair, if you happen to feel similarly to myself, at any rate. (Which I admit, I feel somewhat a minority in, being a horological child of more innocent times in the 90s and early 2000s, when being a watch hobbyist was more accessible and free of stigma.) With that in mind, I think it’s worth taking a look at one of the most recent addition to the prestigious and highly coveted Royal Oak Offshore range from Audemars Piguet. In this case, AP has chosen to expand their Offshore Diver line with a precious white gold model. In so doing, they’ve given this renowned 42mm high-luxury diver a very subtle yet distinguished character which stands out just enough from its more commonly seen steel variants. More specifically, it does so because of well-chosen stylistic choices here and there rather than overt flash and bling. In fact, looking at it, you’d scarcely distinguish it from a steel AP Offshore…unless, you’re a typically sharp-eyed WIS of course! And we all know how that goes, but I digress.

Even before the handsome black ceramic bezel–a key departure from the stainless steel models with their meticulously brushed stainless steel equivalents–I noticed the dial, and more specifically, the color of its luminous applications. An appealing ecru tone, the luminous application strikes a rather nice balance between warmth and the aggressive watch industry trend of fauxtina, which we can all admit has about an equal ratio of ardent fans to vociferous detractors. Regardless of one’s feelings about the trend in vintage-tinted lume, I think most can agree that the shade AP has chosen is very pleasing, reminding me of a well aged tritium dial minus any tropical sort of water damaged affliction seen on certain specimens of vintage sports watches. The Offshore Diver in white gold has the newer luminous hour indexes of differing lengths, giving it a more classic, Submarineresque sort of vibe, which after many decades is almost ingrained into the watch loving public’s subconsciousness as THE look for a dive watch. Legibility is another superb trait of this arrangement, as quarter hours are that much more distinguishable at a quick glance. One can still smile at the large pattern “Mega Tapisserie” waffle guilloche that is a hallmark of the Royal Oak design, knowing the heritage of the watch and its rich history within the pantheon of greats. If that isn’t enough, you have the polished white gold AP signature at 12 o’clock, proud, yet slightly aloof, without the additional Audemars Piguet spelled out in full below it; the hands and hour markers, distinctively shaped and faceted, are also in polished white gold and reflect light in a titillating fashion. Dial print is at a clear minimum, focusing the eyes on the purposeful indications of time, the elapsed time bezel, and the seconds hand sweeping clearly, the latter thing an assurance that your upscale diver’s tool is fully functional to see you through to another dive…or out of a soul-crushing meeting. And speaking of the latter, if you want to dress your diver up, a quick change strap system at the lugs enable you to quickly swap the rubber strap to a supplied alternative in calf leather, or any other appropriate AP or aftermarket alternative in your exotic material of choice.

While the 18K white gold case might be barely indistinguishable from stainless steel alternatives used in other AP Offshore Diver model references, the use of ceramic for the octagonal bezel, screw-locked winding crown, and the secondary bezel adjustment crown give a barely noticeable yet decidedly clear upsurge of luxury presence. Impeccably manufactured from the nearly scratch proof material, these elements display the same crisp angles and beautiful polished facets as the case flanks and lugs, and keep the feeling of the details high tech as well as artisanal. While there are few precious metal dive watches that might tempt you to challenge the depths beyond your desk, this one has enough subtlety and purposefulness to push that envelope and tempt a few brave souls who long for the days when an expensive tool watch was, well, still a tool. Should you dare to so do, know that Audemars Piguet has verified the pressure-proof capability to a very worthy 300 meters, far more than sufficient for scuba diving necessity, and well above the limits of the average Homo sapiens.

The in-house AP 4308 movement, familiar from its stainless steel Offshore Diver brethren, continues Audemars Piguet’s family of updated in-house calibers. It is both refined, attractively appointed in the extreme, and at 5.4mm thick, surely more than reasonably robust for a haute horlogerie engine. Equipped with a freely-sprung Gyromax balance wheel pulsing 28,800 beats hourly on a fully supported balance bridge, the 4308 offers up 60 hours of power reserve–not the longest in the field of worthy competitors, but certainly more than enough for most reasonable use, especially when considering the attractive sight it offers through the sapphire back. Those niceties include lusciously broad Geneva stripes, bridges with scintillating polished angles, and a 22K gold mass elegantly and discreetly oxidized a dark color for a nice contrast with the rhodium-plated bridges, as well as a nod to the purposeful capabilities behind the luxury facade. It’s slightly surreal to acknowledge the passing of nineteen years since the debut of the caliber’s forefather, the 3120, but the aesthetic and functional heritage of that pioneering automatic for AP is clear, and it’s great to see it evolving into existing and new model families from the esteemed Vallee de Joux manufacture. This movement is certainly not the most exotic of Audemars Piguet calibers, nor the most extensively hand finished, but it represents AP’s commitment to functional yet luxurious and exclusive mechanisms for their most popular model lines. It’s a shame that just 300 examples of this specific Offshore Diver will be made, but I suppose “all good things must come to an end”, as the saying goes.

Omega Kicks Off 2022 In Fine Style With The Ultimate Speedmaster Chronograph

Posted on by Adam Keith

Happy New Year everyone! 2022 is here, and Omega has set it off with their own very bold New Year Resolution: the creation of, quite possibly, the ultimate iteration of their legendary Speedmaster chronograph, just in time for the grand watch’s 65th anniversary. Now, understand that when I say that, I take fully into account the exceptional depth of the Speedmaster’s history both within Omega’s brand story arc, and the staggering breadth of the Speedmaster collection, itself. That latter aspect can be awe-inspiring on one hand and occasionally tiresome on the other, given the plethora of limited edition examples and commemorative releases that leave one somewhat numb to the nature of what “special” really is. In this instance, no confusion exists, nor is there any need for some limited edition marketing gimmick to convey the point: the execution in this watch more than suffices.

This watch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is an extraordinary reference in every aspect, from the luxury materials it’s crafted from, the movement which powers it, and the true-to-heritage design honoring one of the most beloved, iconic chronographs ever created by Omega. It’s price tag is…well, pretty staggering, especially compared against even basic precious metal models of more basic Speedies, but I can’t say that it surprises me. The Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is a watch for a select few, not just those well-endowed of wallet, but those with the deepest possible reverence for the history behind the Speedmaster collection, and a desire to own something which is exceedingly special, yet barely whispers as it enters the room. But what is whispered, is oh so sweet. You might say this is the Omega chronograph equivalent of a platinum or white gold Patek Philippe minute repeater with enamel dial, like the legendary Ref. 3939. Even beyond the price and rarity, only a select few of the cognoscenti will understand (or even perceive the significance what they’re looking at) and that’s the whole point behind pieces like these, which raise a proverbial glass of the finest to the dedicated lovers. As mentioned, it doesn’t even need to be a limited edition, in strict terms anyway; the Canopus 321 will remain in production on the go forward, being limited by the small quantity of 321 movements to be produced by Omega annually, the exclusive materials, and the even smaller enthusiast base who will commit the high five figures needed to secure the most expensive Speedmaster in current production.

Before the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was, and the entire connection to space exploration and steps on the moon, the Speedmaster was. Simply, the humble yet very capable Omega Speedmaster, a chronograph intended for race car drivers, and others who might find the chronograph and its supplementary tachymeter scale useful for calculating average speeds and other rates of measure, as well as marking off elapsed time for more mundane tasks. And the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold pays homage–very faithful homage I’ll add–to that first Speedmaster model from 1957, the distinctive and unmistakably period CK2915. How faithful? Well, Omega has managed to duplicate the exact 38.6mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug length, and even the overall thickness of the watch at just under 14mm, even to include the crystal profile despite the modern one being in a modern sapphire material, against than the 2915’s 1950’s-typical acrylic. Yet, despite with the upgrade to sapphire, the beautiful cambered shape remains, and even features an engraved Omega logo on the inside, recalling this traditional mark still seen on the inside surface of hesalite-topped Speedies.

So, it’s faithful to the historic predecessor, in much the same way as the much more attainable 1957 Broad Arrow Speedmaster from 2017 was. Yet, there is so much more with the Canopus 321 to take this Speedmaster into a level of artistry almost touching in its dedication and thoroughness. Take for example the tachymeter bezel, whose markings you might think are filled in to the Canopus gold material with a durable glossy paint, but are actually in grand feu enamel, laid down in several layers and kiln fired multiple times to fix it to the gold, and then assure the splendid, glossy final appearance. The dial is created with similar love for both perfection and luxurious appointment. No paint to be found anywhere, this one is created from the gemstone black onyx, in a meticulous tripartite construction: the back plate, of brass has three applied onyx subdials for the chronograph registers, another onyx layer, with the appropriate cutouts, is placed atop that to create a charming step effect, and finally an outer ring in the same material shows the minutes and seconds markings in absolute clarity. A white gold hand-set, each given a treatment with the greyer toned Canopus gold to match the case, completes the functional work of art. Yet despite all of this opulence, the vintage tool nature of the timepiece is undiminished, preserving the ethos of this classic of classic vintage sport chronographs. To me, the total package is absolutely triumphal!

(The famous 321 caliber, and the laser-etched Hippocampus, it’s eye inset in a blue sapphire gemstone)

Omega’s decision to reissue the famous 321 caliber, painstakingly created from blueprints of the original Lemania-based chronograph mechanism used in early Speedmasters, got a lot of press in the last couple years, first in the flagship platinum 321 model, and after that, the highly coveted stainless steel version that still commands a substantial waiting list, and high aftermarket prices. Unlike most other Omega calibers which see multiple watchmaker’s hands in their assembly line type of construction, each 321 is fully the responsibility of a single watchmaker in a special atelier of the brand dedicated to these chronograph movements. Beyond this fact, which necessarily limits the numbers which can be produced each year compared to more industrialized movements (like the new 3861), are a number of horological niceties the high horology lover will adore: a column wheel control for the chronograph switching, a large screw-weighted balance wheel complete with a hand-crafted Breguet overcoil hairspring in blued steel (naturally beating at a stately 18,000 vph), and bridges with nicely chamfered edges, as well as a grained finish finely garnished with a layer of reddish Sedna gold for that extra degree of distinction. (This was the movement which featured in the Speedmasters which saw the moon’s surface, after all.)

A special feature of the caseback view of the Canopus 321 Speedmaster, compared to its no-less coveted 321 siblings, is a sapphire glass etched with the famous Hippocampus/seahorse logo. My first reaction to this was one of slight disappointment because I felt it detracted from an ability to see the lovely 321 movement; after looking more closely, I began to appreciate the detail itself, and one in particular: the tiny blue eye of the seahorse creature is an actual sapphire gemstone, which Omega has painstakingly set into the sapphire back glass. They achieved this by creating a minuscule laser-carved indentation into the sapphire glass, into which a platinum setting complete with the sapphire gemstone is placed! Needless to say, it’s a really incredible detail, and an impressive feat of Omega’s manufacturing prowess, all while being very subtle and barely noticeable at most angles. Moreover, the sapphire Hippocampus is another example of the many labors of love this watch embodies, which barely reveal themselves unless you seek them.

A watch of this sort deserves a bracelet that is no less regal, and Omega delivered there as well. This classic flat-link bracelet, which shares the same design as the stainless steel 321 variant introduced previously, is crafted from the Omega’s proprietary Canopus 18K gold alloy, a formulation that is true to color all the way through, unlike typical white golds. Solid all the way through, and adding a stately heft to the special watch it supports, the design really strikes an balance between rugged construction, understated appearance, and just the right amount of polished surfaces to retain a dash of tasteful luxury. Even better, Omega added a concealed slider to the clasp to enable effortless tool-free adjustments of the bracelet to the tune of just over two millimeters, making this an all-season companion. This, combined with the delightfully compact–and to me, simply perfect 38.6mm case diameter–case, means this Omega showpiece has all the qualifications to be a regular player in a top-shelf rotation of watches, rather than a prissy benchwarmer best left in the safe. The 321 movement, despite its prestige, defined the early history of the Omega Speedmaster as a true tool watch for the ages, and is hardly a wilting violet in terms of ruggedness. You might not want to dish it out on something so beautiful, but this caliber has what it takes to roll with life’s vicissitudes, just like the watch housing it.

Three distinct dial components in onyx make this one exceptional Speedmaster dial! Yet, the functionality and clarity are undiminished.

To me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus gold is a real treasure, and epitomizes the term “heirloom”. In a world awash with luxury watches, some of them very fine and many bearing lofty price tags, this one strikes me as something genuinely and memorably special. Rarely do you see a watch designed with little to no compromise, for the pure enthusiast; even among the most prestigious brands, many models compromise something here or there, to eke a little tighter profit margin out of the end product. Here is a watch that showcases a historic, hand-crafted chronograph mechanism within a timelessly beautiful vintage design from a golden era of wristwatches, and laden to the hilt with luxury materials, as well as discreet, thematic easter eggs of the most sublime variety. In discreet white gold, there is no overt ostentation, no showboating of any kind; the Canopus 321 could blend in anywhere, appearing to all the world like yet another smallish stainless steel chronograph, or just another humble off-the-rack Speedmaster at most. Yet, the robust nature of the watch, its historic capability as a tool, and the fine yet also unquestionably tough movement also means it has every bit the usability of its more attainable model brethren. While many buyers won’t put a watch this rare and expensive to the test, this is the kind of exquisite item that begs to be used, pleads for some honest wear, and gives it back at the end of the day with memories that can be passed on, just like the similarly coveted stainless steel and platinum versions of the resurrected 321 Speedmasters. Viewed as a comprehensive object of historic, yet imminently wearable luxury watchmaking at the highest level, the $81,000 price tag seems…well, if not a bargain, much, much easier to justify. I’ll go as far as to say that were I so able, my order for a Canopus 321 Calibre Speedmaster would already be in the queue at Omega.

An exquisite hardwood and leather presentation box complete with a loupe fittingly accompanies the Canopus 321

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface: A Daring Take On A Classic Dress Watch, Or A Case Of Confused Identity?

Posted on by Adam Keith

Just because you can…doesn’t always mean you should. A nugget of wisdom bandied about for ages, and one you don’t think much about, until you see something that makes you say “oh yeah…that is sort of good advice”. I think it’s a tad applicable with these new releases from Vacheron Constantin, which take one of their most beautiful classic complications and render it somewhat diluted, even confused as to brand identity. There are few bigger fans of Vacheron than myself, mind you, but this is an illustration that even the greatest of classic brands can fall a little short of the mark, by trying to put a new spin on something simply to generate novelty for its own sake. To be clear–pun slightly intended–the historic manufacturer has done avant garde well in the past, if we look at something like the now extinct Quai De L’ile series. Maybe they weren’t for Vacheron Constantin purists, but they had their own character, used exotic materials, and made their point in a fresh way. These aren’t that though, and the avant garde design approach doesn’t quite get it done when applied to typical Vacheron hyper classicism as seen in the aptly-named Traditionnelle line. To be clear, these Complete Calendar Openface variants are gorgeous watches, in terms of execution—but they prove that simply showing off the mechanics in a watch, however artfully crafted that watch may be, doesn’t necessarily make an existing watch more compelling as horological art. As with a gourmet meal, the finest ingredients are always the foundation, but those ingredients can’t just be thrown together haphazardly…likewise, a timepiece like this depends on finery, but the whole is so, so much more than the sum.

(The sight is lovely, but there’s a LOT going on here. Legibility isn’t a strong suit, either, unfortunately.)

Let’s focus on the many positives first, though. These open-faced Traditionnelle Complete Calendars are beautiful in every detail, without any question, as you’d expect. A Poincon de Geneve hallmarked triple calendar moonphase from one of the oldest and most historic maisons in the world? Yes, an automatic gold star! The 41mm diameter cases are lovely and stately in form, the dauphine hands with their polished and frosted surfaces a delight, and the proportions overall a sublime study in the classic wristwatch, regardless of whether you opt for the rose or white gold version.The dial–whether you enjoy its transparent striptease or find it distracting–is a marvel of intricacy, featuring three distinct yet barely separated levels, to include the vertically oriented guilloche sector, a flange above that presenting the calendar numerology, and finally, a sapphire crystal atop them, bearing the meticulously polished and faceted gold hour markers. With the underdial mechanism exposed, you can clearly view the beautifully chamfered and brushed steel jumpers, polished screws, and other subtle nuances such as the transparent sapphire discs for the days and months, as well as an impressively rendered moonphase disc showing a decidedly detailed impression of the lunar surface. The same can be said of the opposite side of the watch, which shows off the immaculately finished Vacheron Constantin 2460 QCL/2 caliber through a pane of sapphire glass. It is, naturally, an in-house movement and presents all the luxurious, visual treats of a Geneva Seal-winning caliber, including such delightful extras as an openworked Maltese Cross-formed 22K gold winding rotor, and bridges with a dark anthracite treatment for that little bit of stealthy but impossible to ignore haute de gamme showboating. Despite the relatively small movement size relative to the case, it really is a spectacle to relish, and makes one wonder why an aspiring collector of haute horlogerie bothers with the average “entry level” precious metal Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Sohne, especially these days. Anyone who chooses one of these triple calendars will doubtless get a superbly crafted, manufacture dress watch of the highest pedigree, with impeccable details and a daring raise-your-eyebrows sort of variation upon the themes of which Vacheron Constantin is a great master.

But then, you pause to consider, and realize…these watches, at just over $47,000 USD, are hardly an inexpensive value proposition either compared to references from the major competitors, and the triple calendar, while classic and charming, is quite a ways behind the perpetual calendar, or even an annual, which adjusts itself for most of the year, (if you don’t mind intervening on February, of course!) And that “face”…well, it is indeed a pretty sight in miniature detail, but as a whole, maybe exudes too much quasi-Hublot novelty in the shell of a iconic dress watch, and that’s even before we get into issues of legibility and the sense of stately calm you surely expect in a complete calendar classic such as a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle. And even within the brand’s own offerings, a quick glance at the conventional versions of these Vacheron Constantin classics quickly restores a sense that this is what was intended where such things are concerned. And what of the aforementioned Quai De L’Ile collection, which took features such as daringly open dials and really gave them a bold new stage to play on? Well, that collection sadly met its end in 2019, after just a ten year run. More’s the pity, as I think there was a lot to like about it, yet, I’d argue against partially resurrecting those aesthetic cues here, where they are even more incongruous with the celebrated Vacheron Constantin design language. “Render unto Caesar what is Caesar’s…”

(The same mechanism and case, sans open dial. Despite some mechanical mystery, Isn’t that just a *little* more pleasing?)

Patek Philippe 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo: A Dominant Bell Toll In The World Of The Minute Repeater Complication

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A intricate, unusual dial and bright orange strap hint that this minute repeater watch is far, far more than meets the ear!)

Among that elite circle of manufacturers known to produce the devilishly complex minute repeater complication, none are more widely celebrated than Patek Philippe.  Not just because of Patek Philippe’s long expertise in producing these exquisite and highly intricate chiming watches, but their fanatical attention to the sound quality produced by the chimes–itself a difficult acoustic mark to hit, and one affected by many factors, including the length and thickness of the gong springs, the way in which the hammers are adjusted to hit them, and the resonance properties of the case material and its constructive quirks.  Patek has spent many decades mastering this exquisite complication, and one could say they’ve made it a bit of a pleasantly fanatical pursuit to produce the best in class. Indeed, as is well known to many horological devotees, each and every Patek Philippe watch with minute repeater complication is presented to the company head (Thierry Stern, and before him, his father Philippe) who passes the final judgment on whether the product is ready for a discerning owner, or must go back to the master watchmaker’s bench for further minuscule adjustments.
 

(The slide-piece which starts the music is classically placed on the left side of the platinum case, ready to bring the chimes to life)

A quick visit to YouTube to listen to any number of Patek Philippe minute repeater watches of both old and more recent production quickly reveals just how good the brand is at “getting it right”–yet, despite this well-honed mastery, Patek Philippe continues to strive forward and take these aural pieces of horological delight to new levels. The watch we have here, just announced, is the Reference 5750P Fortissimo, and it promises to enrich the traditional minute repeater with innovative technology that will let the chimes of time sing with unparalleled beauty and sonority.  Even more fascinating, the clever acoustical solutions Patek Philippe has come up with negate the advantages (or disadvantages) of various case materials, once a surprisingly important factor in how bold–or muted–a minute repeater might sound to the human ear. That’s one reason that Patek Philippe has chosen to case this groundbreaking minute repeater watch in platinum–a material known to be particularly difficult from an acoustical standpoint.

(The forest of hand finished racks, cams, and other levers under the dial, all meticulously adjusted, control the strike sequence)

What do I mean? Well, denser materials such as platinum tend to absorb more sound than 18K gold, which in turn doesn’t amplify as well as somewhat less noble materials such as steel or titanium, all factors being equal.  Much like an Antonio Stradivari or Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu choosing the finest tone wood for the construction of a fine violin or cello, the materials chosen play a role in the ultimate effect of the completed instrument. Of course, additional gongs, larger gongs, or innovative case design can all play a role too, and Patek Philippe has gone all out to maximize all the factors in making the ultimate example of a chiming watch. Going back to our luthier example, for those who can appreciate the comparison, that might be the equivalent of the arching of the violin when the top and back are being created–those architectural choices, one way or the other, can impact the sonority of the completed, and strung-up violin, as well its ability to deliver a world class concert sound for years, even centuries, into the future.

At first glance, the base R27 movement appears familiar from other Patek Philippe minute repeating wristwatches such as the Ref. 5074 or 5078. But immediate differences from R27s seen in those watches are also readily observable, such as a new rotor in platinum, thinner than the previous 22K gold component yet equally efficient thanks to platinum’s greater density. Most obviously unique to this caliber, however, is the curious forked apparatus traveling from the case edge and gongs, through the jewel settings of the black-polished repeater hammers and terminating in a circular component. This part, a key aspect of the acoustical amplification of this movement is the highly sensitive sound lever, a direct conduit from the vibrating gongs to an nearly invisible sapphire crystal oscillating wafer with a razor thin thickness of just 0.2 millimeter. This sapphire component, part of the several patented elements in this Advanced Research caliber, is attached to–and works with the transmitting sound lever, and a special titanium ring with several cutouts hidden from view–to boost the sound transmission multiple fold over what a standard minute repeater might be capable. The slightly added height this arrangement gave to the R27PS caliber also helps explain the choice for the thinner platinum microrotor I mentioned earlier–every millimeter of added movement height counts in high horology, and Patek Philippe was not about to make the Advanced Research Fortissimo anything less than an elegant, relatively slender wristwatch.

How much additional sonority does the Fortissimo Module in the Ref. 5750 deliver? Well, Patek Philippe claims a six-fold increase: that is, the dulcet tones of this one can be heard clearly sixty meters away, compared to approximately ten from anything else they’ve produced. That seems impressive indeed, in fact, maybe even slightly more potent than optimal, given the blue-blooded discretion that you’d suspect a typical minute repeater client might normally crave. That said, have no fear–Thierry Stern and his team at Patek have made two other modifications which soothe the near-operatic vocal cords of the Ref. 5750 to a volume befitting the utmost in patrician sensibility. First, Patek Philippe opted for an unusual selection of platinum for the repeater hammers over the standard polished steel, for reasons that the weight and density of the former yield an ultimately softer peal when hitting the gongs. Secondly, and notably, the tempo of a time-strike sequence has been extended for a several second period compared to that of previous Patek Philippe minute repeaters, to allow for a bit more sonic expansion both between hammer strikes, and at the conclusion of the sequence. Of course, at no time will these many refined technical tricks be more enjoyable than at the magical minute repeater “Witching Hour” of 12:59, when the listener is greeted to the always reverential sequence of twelve individual low tones, three high-low combinations for the quarter hours, and an additional nineteen high tones for the remaining individual minutes of the hour.

Yes, the 5750 Advanced Research is a triumphal masterpiece, and represents the best of what Patek Philippe can offer. It’s easy to forget truly wondrous pieces like this amidst the never-ending chatter about the latest Nautilus variant, and the newest sanity-bending sales price for it at one auction venue or another. At 40mm in diameter, this platinum beauty–complete with the signature round brilliant set between the 6 o’clock case lugs as you’d expect–is a contemporary classic already fit to join the rarified company of other Patek minute repeaters produced in years prior. Yet, the Fortissimo has been given some unique details that give it a character unlike any of its siblings. Chalk that up to its saucy orange alligator strap and striking silvered dial with skeletonized lozenge motif; the same detail is echoed on the platinum microrotor’s decoration, and is intended to evoke the spokes of a classic roadster. The dial pattern sort of winks and hints at the engineering brilliance that’s embodied in this classic masterpiece, which is watchmaking artistry on the highest level, no matter how you slice it. The 5750P’s retail price is appropriately high at over half a million dollars, and honestly, watches like this are among the few that can actually justify such Olympian price tags. Only fifteen will be made, and I hope it is the truest of true blue Patek Philippe faithful who acquire these to enjoy and yes…wear. Not just for themselves mind you, but their very blessed descendants as well, just as the historic Genevan manufacturer would intend.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Green Guilloche: A High Tech Beauty That’s Changed My Mind About An Enthusiast Brand

Posted on by Adam Keith

Think of a top industry actress (or actor, if you prefer!) that is universally extolled for their talent, filmographic repertoire, and most notably for this discussion, beauty and sex appeal, around the globe…but that individual for whatever reason, doesn’t really resonate with you in that way. Oh sure, you unabashedly recognize that this person ticks all the boxes for what makes a human appealing, and you certainly wouldn’t kick them out of bed for eating crackers, but they just aren’t your type, even if you had half a snowball’s chance in the Devil’s dominion. But one day, you see them in a certain film, and be it their attire, their character, or how it all comes together, and it’s now a very different perception…all of a sudden, you get it. That’s a bit like how the very high end watch brand of De Bethune is for me, as a watch guy. I’ve intellectually admired them for a long time, recognized how so many other watch lovers could find them irresistible, but few models have really called out to me on any cohesive level, despite my acknowledgement of the horological ingenuity, finishing, and unique presence. And now…this DB25 Perpetual Calendar gets announced. And yes, now I “get it”. What a gorgeous and absolutely covetous watch!

(In 44mm polished titanium with unique De Bethune design cues, the DB 25 is unmistakable yet subtle)

The DeBethune here is not a classic perpetual calendar like the legendary Ref. 3448 Patek Philippe, a mid-century Audemars Piguet, or even a Lange Langematik Perpetual–its 44mm case breadth and unique De Bethune styling signatures such as the skeletonized lugs, are obvious assurances of that point. But, it delves deeply into the vocabulary of classic detailing that keeps it firmly in the camp of a watch that has ageless beauty. No more is that evident than in the mesmerizing green dial, which radiates the feeling of something special, without any garish overtone that some green dials can convey–the shade and finish of it is sublime, completely transcending the modern industry fetish for green-themed watches. And while the DB25 Perpetual is large, it can’t be denied that the ample real estate lets this dial stretch its very shapely legs. Classic roman numerals in contrasting silver at the hours and a railroad minute track with Arabic marks at the 5-minute intervals speak to watches known and loved for over a century, while the intricate guilloche center, set distinct from the outer chapter shows off the illusory sense of bending light and three dimensional texture, a sensation enhanced by the absolutely ravishing polished leaf hands, with tips gracefully curving towards the dial. Calendar days and months at the center of the dial, at 9 and 3 respectively lend a sense of calm and balance, setting the stage for a famous DeBethune specialty: the rotating, hemispherical moonphase, comprised of joined sections of oxidized steel and palladium to artfully replicate the lighter and darker sides of our heavenly satellite, all against a poetic background of a blackened gold sky shining with inlaid rose gold stars. The fact that De Bethune has discreetly included a leap year indicator just below the moon phase, all while keeping the poetic night sky effect unperturbed, is most pleasing. The polished titanium case with its thin bezel and unique architecture contribute to this DB25’s sense of unstressed complexity, serenity, and utterly wearable nature.

(Innovation and exclusivity: De Bethune movements are full of patented horological goodies)

Even before my “enlightenment”, I always admired the effort De Bethune put forth in creating high-end manufacture movements chock full of innovative mechanisms that distinguished them amongst the high horology crowd. The DB2324, comprising 425 parts and 47 jewels, is no exception to that track record, and decorated in striking manner that is both refined yet somehow architecturally fascinating and futuristic. To my eyes, it comes off more like a miniature exotic car engine, or something similar, than just another pretty movement. Elements that reinforce that sort of impression include the rotor with its blued titanium arms screwed to the white gold outer mass with an almost excessive–if excitingly so!–four screws on each arm, and a similarly shaped balance bridge of the same material, its securing point thrusting sharply upward from the outer legs, and connecting to an additional supporting structure to carry off the distinctive “Triple Parachute” shock absorber system for the freely sprung balance wheel. That balance wheel, manufactured from a combination of titanium and platinum, is itself another example of De Bethune innovation, offering up distinctive regulation weights for fine adjustment, and a patented hairspring with a flat terminal curve. The 5-day power reserve is another notable technical feature of the caliber, and should ensure preservation of the most certainly excellent precision–as well as a giving a nice chance to rotate this beauty out for others in your collection, when you can bear to take it off, that is! While on the topic of precision, once its set, the DB2324’s moonphase display also won’t deviate from astronomic reality by a single day for 122 years, rather a moot point for the average human, but again, we see another example of the thoughtful perfectionism that De Bethune strives for.

(A green textile strap is provided as an additional alternative, and looks casually smashing with that dial!)

To me, De Bethune has created a fine example of their unique watchmaking aesthetic in this green DB25 variant, one that calls to mind all the romantic things beloved in classical horology but framed in a refreshing and very forward-looking way, with cutting edge mechanical tech to match. This is a watch that is beautiful and intricate, but without any excessive formality to relegate it to more occasional use. Dressed down (or up), this is a masterful creation that begs to be worn daily, with the rarefied details to delight its owner at every glance. I’ll confess that it also makes me want to dig back into the De Bethune catalog and explore their impressive watchmaking adventures more. Clearly, I’ve been missing out!

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One: High Luxury Sports Watch At Another Level Of Excellence

Posted on by Adam Keith

Some people really do have everything, and are looking for the next frontier of luxury experience. Others could have everything, (or pretty close to it) but choose to be more selective in their process, and want to surround themselves with exceptional objects so discreet and unusual that only a handful of cognoscenti would have any idea. For either of those categories of elite watch collectors, the brilliant and perfectionistic Romain Gauthier has just the piece for you: the Continuum Titanium Edition One. It is sure to be an appetizing antidote to the hegemony of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, nameless AP Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition, or even another hyper-priced, but perhaps equally overly hyped, Richard Mille.

(A component from a Romain Gauthier watch, showing the typical obsessive attention to finishing and detail practiced by the Manufacture)


For those who’ve been following the progression of Romain Gauthier since the early 2000s, it’s indeed difficult to not be impressed with the combination of exceptional artisanal finish and mechanical ingenuity embodied in the creations of this humble yet demanding independent–one who’s passion originated not from a watchmaker’s training, but a background in precision engineering. This, of course, ultimately led to Gauthier’s first ventures in creating high quality parts and technical solutions for other watchmakers. Yet, after doing that for a time, the man grew restless and sought to create a watch collection of his own, unifying the best of classical watchmaking with his own forward-thinking mechanical and aesthetic ethos. Those ambitions in haute horlogerie were nurtured and coached by none other than Philippe Dufour, who’s expertise the ambitious yet humble founder sought out from the early days, with results that have been clear to see across the growing, award-winning Romain Gauthier collection. And while it was tours de forces like the exquisite “Logical One” with its superbly crafted, ingenious jeweled chain-and-fusee mechanism that have increasingly made the name a magical one for collectors of the ultra-rare, sports watches weren’t something you might have expected to see.  With the introduction of the Continuum, limited to an achingly small edition of 28 pieces, that has all certainly changed. It is a watch far…far from inexpensive, and nor would you expect it to be given the maker, but the CHF 37,000 price accorded the Continuum is really quite reasonable indeed when you begin to wrap your heart and head around the Romain Gauthier watchmaking philosophy, the true labor of love involved in any watch emerging from the atelier, and the undeniable, hyper exclusivity factor.

The team at Romain Gauthier have created a case measuring 41mm wide by x 9.55 mm tall in hypoallergenic Grade 5 titanium. At a length of 49.5mm lug to lug, it is certainly a wrist filler, but given the striking presence and flawless execution, I doubt it will be an impediment to a real love affair with this watch! What grabs you immediately with the Continuum Titanium Edition One is the unity of a striking design with beautiful, and extremely intricate craftsmanship, from the brushed and polished alternating scallops on the bezel, to fascinating angular lugs that perfectly mate to the dark grey rubber strap. Even the strap carries on that feeling of extreme detail, from the texture of it, down to the richly crafted buckle in finely brushed and polished alternations. Everywhere you look, contrasting finishes and angles surfaces converge in sublime and delightful ways, drawing the viewer in to discover additional secrets about the watch that might not have been evident on the first, or even the tenth viewing. As with the best movies, books, or music, a truly great watch can be discovered–and rediscovered–many times over, and the Continuum certainly passes that litmus test with flying colors.

(The utmost attention to detail continues even to the strap and buckle textures)

The dial titillates the eye in a similar way, featuring an unusual yet compelling merger of drawn out and compact indexes, the always-charming “3-6-9” Arabic numeral principals that have defined more than a few famous sports watch dials over the decades, and an offset subsidiary seconds dial that is both restrained and a little bit crazy at the same time, thanks to the unusual red sunray pattern exploding out from it. Meticulous finishing contrasts abound here as with the case, the matte, grained Grade 5 titanium dial giving emphasis to the subtle faceting of the hour indexes, which–like the quite three-dimensional hands (sort of a neo-dauphine style, perhaps?)–are crafted from satin-finished white gold, and have ample luminous fill to keep things easily legible in darkness.

But it is through the exhibition back where the Continuum Titanium Edition One surely proves its ultimate mettle. The impression of this in-house produced and conceived, manually wound Romain Gauthier caliber is that of a strong and capable machine conceived with vibrant engineering passion, yet one beautifully designed and finished with the highest degree of care from the ground up–a melding of traditional watchmaking concepts with something modern, and perhaps even futuristic, you might say. Manually wound, the basics include a construction of 154 parts, 24 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and 60 hours of power reserve. The bridge shape and detail–an homage to the “finger bridge” style synonymous with classical Vallee de Joux movements–aren’t decoratively fussy in any way, yet show off extreme attention to finishing quality, and a distinctive three-dimensional aspect, much in the same manner as the watch’s hand set. A fascinating, hand-applied tremblage type finish graces the primary surfaces and matte, coolly-technical bevels with a distinct double-bordered step frame them in; they aren’t as immediately visually radiant as the bridge finishing seen on some of the more complex Romain Gauthier models, but I think the aesthetic perfectly suits the flavor and themes of the Continuum as a whole. It is subtle and technical, with a modest beauty that pulls you in…at which point you realize this is far beyond your average, entry-level Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe reference.

Examining the painstakingly finished wheels with their swooping, circular–and yes, beveled!–spokes reveals the same fanatical attention to minding the little things, and the construction of the caliber allows us to perceive many interesting technical and decorative aspects. Examples of the latter would include the black polished S-shaped screws securing the bridges (also a feature on the caseback of the watch, in a superb example of luxurious continuity), the distinctive conoid regulating weights on the freely sprung balance wheel, and an ingenious snail cam for precise stopping and restarting of the escapement. This beautifully polished little component comes in contact with the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out to affect setting, and creates optimal precision not just in halting the balance, but getting it robustly back into motion once the crown is pressed back in. Romain Gauthier also proudly makes note of their proprietary triangular pallet lever, a subtle but notable improvement to the typical more fork-like appendage seen in most Swiss lever implementations.

(Romain Gauthier’s triangular pallet lever advances classic Swiss lever escapement performance)

The triangular modification of this small yet critical escapement component is claimed to improve stability, efficiency, and shock resistance as well as give a slight boost to the balance amplitude, all while retaining the classic reliability and predictable performance of the proven Swiss Lever. Again, a nod to proven traditions of watchmaking, but rendered in a fresh, thoughtful, and cleverly engineered way! The Romain Gauthier way.

A founder with real passion for excellence, Romain Gauthier is at the vanguard of 21st century independent watchmaking

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365BR/15/9WU: An Exquisite Tribute To The Inventor Of The Whirlwind Escapement

Posted on by Adam Keith

There are a goodly number of tourbillon watches in existence, many of the notable ones being exquisite examples of watchmaking’s finest craftsmanship, with such legendary names signed to their bridges as Girard-Perregaux, Helwig and Pratt, among a few others. But there’s something about a Breguet tourbillon that seems so fitting, less for the classic beauty and aesthetic details inherent in a Breguet watch, and more for the simple fact that such watches bear the name of the man who envisioned the very principles of the complication in the first place. Such was the difficulty to produce and adjust this gravity-defying escapement, that during his lifetime, Abraham-Louis Breguet only produced 35 examples of watches with tourbillon, those rare pieces destined solely for the wealthiest of his clients, and the inventories of royal houses. While the advent of modern manufacturing techniques have made the fascinating complication significantly easier to produce, and their status somewhat deflated as a result, a truly high-end tourbillon execution is still a feat of exceptional watchmaking, and few can produce one like the modern house of Breguet–certainly not with a similar degree of panache and instantly recognizable provenance. With that distinguished history in mind, and an anniversary celebration of 220 years of the Tourbillon at hand, it’s fitting that Manufacture Breguet is offering this beautiful Classique model, in a numbered edition of….you guessed it, 35 pieces.

(Breguet’s patent application drawing from 1801, which is replicated in hand engraving on the movement’s bridges!)

First things I perceive: Ref 5365BR/15/9WU is a classic Breguet watch, through and through. The individually welded 18K gold lugs affixed with solid gold screwed bars, the stately fluted caseband, and most especially a stunningly intricate, silver-plated solid gold dial with multiple guilloche textures painstakingly created by a hand-guided rose engine all immediately distinguish it. Without question, a dress watch with something much, much more, yet discreetness and pure elegance to temper the virtuosity. Only a closer look reveals some interesting touches that set this apart as a special commemorative, and with a dial this gorgeous, believe me…you’ll want to spend some time with a loupe! While Breguet tourbillons from the collection typically sport a tourbillon bridge of black-polished steel, this one diverges slightly…showing off a fire-blued finish which is particularly sublime as it compliments the famously shaped, blued signature hands. Too, the outermost edge of the tourbillon aperture displays a “Brevet No 157”, a subtle detail that points to the specific patent which the pioneering French watchmaker received for the tourbillon escapement. Naturally the secret Breguet signature is in place astride the 12 o’clock roman numeral, which is as charming as ever alongside the numerous textured fineries that greet the eye, and of course, the audacious, slightly discordant, off-centered time display–a look which Breguet pioneered on his original 18th century pocket watches. The 41mm rose gold case is definitely a concession to modern tastes, but the proportional balance of this wristwatch remains superb, and there’s more reason for it when we consider the mechanically intricate, and intricately decorated caliber that greets the eye through the sapphire back.

Calibre 581 is expansive, filling the voluminous case in the way a movement purist can appreciate. It’s easy to mistake it for a manual winding caliber, but that’s not the situation. So, where is the rotor? Neither centrally mounted, nor a microrotor, the winding mass is on the edge of the caliber, a fairly uncommon way to implement the automatic mechanism, but the result is very visually pleasing and keeps the view unobstructed. To ensure that said winding mass also does a good job of winding the Calibre 581 when worn, it is wrought from massive, precious platinum for maximal inertia, and a hand engraved guilloche pattern keeps it a thing of beauty, as well. An on the topic of aesthetics, the caliber is an exemplar of classical watchmaking finishing techniques throughout, with the bridges featuring beautiful hand-polished anglage with a lusciously broad width to give that polish an extra bit of visual potency. Jewels are set in similarly polished sinks. The many screws are black polished, and a humble satin-grained texture graces the bridges, drawing the eye’s admiration to something extraordinary: a hand-engraved replication of Breguet’s drawings of the tourbillon for his patent application! It’s a detail that is both strikingly handsome and subtle, in the way that more special, commemorative pieces from other houses could take a lesson from. Other discreet commemorative details to enjoy include a mainspring barrel hand engraved with the 220th anniversary dates of the tourbillon’s patenting, and another across the tourbillon carriage bridge, this one illustrating the patent number, and the year of the patent, “7 Messidor An 9”. That latter calendar term, being equivalent to June 26, 1801, reflects the unusual parlance of the Republican calendar, ushered in after the French Revolution and coming to an end by Napoleonic decree in 1806. (And you thought this was just a watch blog! 😉 )

(A hand-executed engraving of the Breguet patent drawing is one of many aesthetic delights of Cal 581. Note the platinum oscillating weight, too.)

Returning again to the movement finishing itself, the presence of a a few tricky interior angles in places is another point that will delight perfectionists that increasingly find inspiration only in the artisanal work of the most fastidious independent masters such as Dufour or Rexhepi. Yet, despite all this charming 19th century watchmaking artistry, the one-minute tourbillon itself gets an up-to-the-minute hairspring and a LIGA-etched escape wheel in high-tech silicon. This is a very interesting thing about modern Breguet to me, as the brand respects both its heritage as one of the best in traditional high horology, and the pioneering spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet, who always pushed to find newer and better solutions, as well as fight the eternal watchmaker’s enemy: friction. Would the great Breguet himself have used silicon, had the technologies to manufacture watchmaking components from it existed then? Hard to say for sure, but I think we can surmise he would have been highly interested in their capabilities, and eager to experiment. In any event, tradition and modernism firmly clasp hands in this beautiful mechanism which ticks at a modern 28,800 vph frequency, offers superior six-position adjustment, and will run for 80 hours at maximum wind.

That Breguet has many compellingly beautiful watches in its catalog is an understatement, some far simpler, and some more complicated. But it is the tourbillon in its pure form, arguably more than any other complication or specialty of watchmaking which defines the ingenuity and elegance of the house and its storied, endlessly inventive namesake. In that vein, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365 captures the aesthetic signatures of Breguet in a very compelling way, offering a thoughtfully conceived commemorative effort that feels truly special without excess, or a sense of overdone commercial sensationalism. With a richly padded alligator leather strap and triple-deployant buckle in rose gold, this is a distinguished high complication that will certainly dress up, but it itself is always the occasion. Bearing that in mind, the lofty CHF 158,000 price seems…well, just a formality.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale: A Military Diver’s Tool With Interesting Features And A Flavor All Its Own

Posted on by Adam Keith

As a counterpoint to big brother Rolex, Tudor holds the banner for those who appreciate styling cues of the bygone vintage references produced by the five point crown, pricing that is still a relative value for a normal person who desires one badly enough, and designs that recall the classic toolwatch era rather than the modern jewelwatch era where a prestigious mechanical watch–however capable–is more about creating followers on social media, than saving your life atop a mountain, or beneath the waves. So it was with considerable interest to many of us this week when Tudor unveiled this watch–the Ref. 25707B Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale in a satin-finished 42mm titanium case. Not your average dive watch in any way, this is a purpose-built tool that calls to mind Tudor’s very serious credentials with a well-known military dive unit. It delivers a no-nonsense aesthetics, with superb and highly functional construction in a way that may not be for everyone, but may well attain cult status with tool watch fans and those with a particularly keen appreciation for mechanical watches as lifesaving instruments.

As a long time fetishist of a classic mechanical tool watches, the Pelagos FXD resonated strongly with me at first glance. Indications, first and foremost, are sparkling clear and bold–this is not a watch that you will ever glance at and have any doubt about exactly what time is displayed, in any condition. And given the heritage of this watch, that’s really a given. Dating back to shortly after the Rolex Submariner (and the closely related, if more value priced, Tudor Submariner) hit the market in the 1950s, these highly water resistant and functional watches with rotating time-lapse bezels made quite a splash with the French Navy and their well-trained frogmen. Eventually, Tudor would create specific models expressly for the Marine Nationale, featuring distinctive features such as the now-signature Tudor “Snowflake” hands for maximal legibility, and specially welded-in springbars to preclude any chance of the watch parting company with its wearer. The casebacks of these watches were engraved with an MN signature, as well as the year of introduction, for example, “MN74” or “MN80”. In a similar fashion, this new Tudor is made to meet the updated demands of the Marine Nationale, and like its forebears, the caseback is engraved MN21, appropriately enough, along with the insignia of the organization who commissioned it, and the technical details of the Tudor movement encased beneath it.

(Only one-piece straps allowed!)

Delving further into the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale, it’s very clear this is a watch designed with the brutally necessary in mind, with those things contradicting this left out…with the possible exception of the typical and rather iconic Rolex/Tudor “marketing novel” on the dial! (Well, at least the “Rotor Self-Winding” bit is left off) As a purist’s piece, this Tudor Pelagos variant thankfully omits a date display, keeping the dial beautifully symmetrical and free of any unnecessary functional distractions. It also aids in keeping the watch quite slender, at just 12.7mm, meaning this will be a very comfortable, easy to wear piece that won’t flop around, especially when used in conjunction with any good one-piece strap, such as either of the ones that Tudor includes with each watch. And speaking of that, do note that only one piece straps can work with the Pelagos FXD: in a very cool touch, the lugs are a one piece loop of thoughtfully-beveled titanium, that is integral with the case itself—a very modern take on the welded strap bars concept of vintage models. I love the look of these lugs, as they distinguish this watch from almost anything else out there, the one piece metal loops tacitly growling “Whatever you’ve got..bring it on!” (The only thing I can think of with a similarly bombproof strap attachment is the insanely water resistant Omega Ultra Deep, another uncompromising tool watch if ever there was one!)

With its purposeful entirely matte finished surfaces, and rich blue dial, this new Tudor has no dress watch pretense in it–and as such, should be one of the ultimate watches for anyone who rejoices in trying out various NATO and ZULU straps, of which the wisely chosen 22mm spacing will give quite the selection from any number of excellent suppliers. It’s also worth pointing out that this watch, unlike the original Pelagos, has neither a particularly boast-worthy depth rating, nor a helium valve; the conservative 200m-rated construction is more than adequate for what the Marine Nationale combat swimmers require, and a helium valve has no value for their missions either, being just one additional hole in the case for water ingress. Again, pure functionality reigns: as much as necessary where required, but no more, and specifications that are adapted to specific, real world applications.

(Gotta love those pointed, satin-brushed crown guards! Focused functionality is present everywhere with this tool watch. Note too, how closely the watch sits to the wrist, with the integrated lugs pulling the strap tightly to the wearer.)

And speaking of that, the bezel has to be both admired, and discussed. The first thing that struck me was the raspy, fine-toothed knurling–almost reminiscent of the points on a wheel or pinion! Just looking at it, you simply have no doubts that moving this unusual time lapse system will be effortless with even the bulkiest of gloves wrapped around your briny, frozen mitts. Why unusual? Well, this bezel and its literally backward graduations compared to a more typical dive bezel, as well as its bi-directional functionality (a contradiction to the well-established ISO 6425 standard) are meant to time the very specific underwater movements that each of the French naval dive teams must perform in their line of work. Utilizing a compass, the team moves in a straight line at relatively shallow depth for a determined exact period of time, which the countdown bezel perfectly enables them to track; once the minute hand hits the luminous bezel pip, the divers change course, and the bezels are again reset to the minute hand to begin the sequence anew. Because the combat swimmers aren’t ascending and descending like recreational divers (who have to track decompression stops, etc), and must frequently adjust their timing sequences while moving in their lines, the bi-directional countdown bezel is the perfect measurement gauge. That said, that same easy to twist functionality will doubtless be very useful above the waves, and for timing all manner of mundane things most of us must attend to on a daily basis here on terra firma. And the glow, oh the glow! This is definitely a watch that will delight the lover of lume, even if you’re just charging it up for the sheer fun of it.

Naturally, an in-house Manufacture Tudor movement can be found behind the screwed-in, engraved stainless steel caseback. Essentially a larger diameter version of the MT5601 found in the Black Bay lineup, the MT5602 is of course an officially certified Swiss chronometer, and carries the expected high-tech goodies that make a movement resilient in the modern era. At the heart of the caliber is a silicon hairspring for optimum magnetism resistance, and a bridge-mounted balance wheel with variable inertia screws for precise adjustment, as well as the ability to hold that fine adjustment once set. Its bidirectional rotor smoothy feeds the mainspring barrel, and when fully wound, the mechanism will run a goodly 70 hours before coming to a halt. Having worn a Black Bay 58 for a time, I can attest that these Tudor calibers are certainly capable of superb precision, and uphold the role of a precise, reliable workhorse with aplomb–just like you’d expect from any product coming from the Rolex complex. What’s also undeniable, is the excellent value proposition found in this particular watch. Due to its slightly simpler movement, lack of a bracelet, and focused minimalism, the Pelagos FXD will come in at an MSRP of USD$3,900, a surprisingly reasonable number that undercuts the standard Pelagos by a small amount, and like other Tudor offerings, gives a lot of attainability to watch fans across the spectrum. While this one probably won’t be as broadly appealing as some of the Black Bay divers and perhaps even the standard date-equipped Pelagos, I suspect it’ll be a resounding fan favorite of dive watch collectors, tool watch lovers, and aficionados of specially tailored historical equipment with deeper connections to performance under real pressure.

(Robust, reliable, and precise: the MT5602 caliber)