Happy New Year everyone! 2022 is here, and Omega has set it off with their own very bold New Year Resolution: the creation of, quite possibly, the ultimate iteration of their legendary Speedmaster chronograph, just in time for the grand watch’s 65th anniversary. Now, understand that when I say that, I take fully into account the exceptional depth of the Speedmaster’s history both within Omega’s brand story arc, and the staggering breadth of the Speedmaster collection, itself. That latter aspect can be awe-inspiring on one hand and occasionally tiresome on the other, given the plethora of limited edition examples and commemorative releases that leave one somewhat numb to the nature of what “special” really is. In this instance, no confusion exists, nor is there any need for some limited edition marketing gimmick to convey the point: the execution in this watch more than suffices.
This watch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is an extraordinary reference in every aspect, from the luxury materials it’s crafted from, the movement which powers it, and the true-to-heritage design honoring one of the most beloved, iconic chronographs ever created by Omega. It’s price tag is…well, pretty staggering, especially compared against even basic precious metal models of more basic Speedies, but I can’t say that it surprises me. The Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is a watch for a select few, not just those well-endowed of wallet, but those with the deepest possible reverence for the history behind the Speedmaster collection, and a desire to own something which is exceedingly special, yet barely whispers as it enters the room. But what is whispered, is oh so sweet. You might say this is the Omega chronograph equivalent of a platinum or white gold Patek Philippe minute repeater with enamel dial, like the legendary Ref. 3939. Even beyond the price and rarity, only a select few of the cognoscenti will understand (or even perceive the significance what they’re looking at) and that’s the whole point behind pieces like these, which raise a proverbial glass of the finest to the dedicated lovers. As mentioned, it doesn’t even need to be a limited edition, in strict terms anyway; the Canopus 321 will remain in production on the go forward, being limited by the small quantity of 321 movements to be produced by Omega annually, the exclusive materials, and the even smaller enthusiast base who will commit the high five figures needed to secure the most expensive Speedmaster in current production.
Before the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was, and the entire connection to space exploration and steps on the moon, the Speedmaster was. Simply, the humble yet very capable Omega Speedmaster, a chronograph intended for race car drivers, and others who might find the chronograph and its supplementary tachymeter scale useful for calculating average speeds and other rates of measure, as well as marking off elapsed time for more mundane tasks. And the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold pays homage–very faithful homage I’ll add–to that first Speedmaster model from 1957, the distinctive and unmistakably period CK2915. How faithful? Well, Omega has managed to duplicate the exact 38.6mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug length, and even the overall thickness of the watch at just under 14mm, even to include the crystal profile despite the modern one being in a modern sapphire material, against than the 2915’s 1950’s-typical acrylic. Yet, despite with the upgrade to sapphire, the beautiful cambered shape remains, and even features an engraved Omega logo on the inside, recalling this traditional mark still seen on the inside surface of hesalite-topped Speedies.
So, it’s faithful to the historic predecessor, in much the same way as the much more attainable 1957 Broad Arrow Speedmaster from 2017 was. Yet, there is so much more with the Canopus 321 to take this Speedmaster into a level of artistry almost touching in its dedication and thoroughness. Take for example the tachymeter bezel, whose markings you might think are filled in to the Canopus gold material with a durable glossy paint, but are actually in grand feu enamel, laid down in several layers and kiln fired multiple times to fix it to the gold, and then assure the splendid, glossy final appearance. The dial is created with similar love for both perfection and luxurious appointment. No paint to be found anywhere, this one is created from the gemstone black onyx, in a meticulous tripartite construction: the back plate, of brass has three applied onyx subdials for the chronograph registers, another onyx layer, with the appropriate cutouts, is placed atop that to create a charming step effect, and finally an outer ring in the same material shows the minutes and seconds markings in absolute clarity. A white gold hand-set, each given a treatment with the greyer toned Canopus gold to match the case, completes the functional work of art. Yet despite all of this opulence, the vintage tool nature of the timepiece is undiminished, preserving the ethos of this classic of classic vintage sport chronographs. To me, the total package is absolutely triumphal!
Omega’s decision to reissue the famous 321 caliber, painstakingly created from blueprints of the original Lemania-based chronograph mechanism used in early Speedmasters, got a lot of press in the last couple years, first in the flagship platinum 321 model, and after that, the highly coveted stainless steel version that still commands a substantial waiting list, and high aftermarket prices. Unlike most other Omega calibers which see multiple watchmaker’s hands in their assembly line type of construction, each 321 is fully the responsibility of a single watchmaker in a special atelier of the brand dedicated to these chronograph movements. Beyond this fact, which necessarily limits the numbers which can be produced each year compared to more industrialized movements (like the new 3861), are a number of horological niceties the high horology lover will adore: a column wheel control for the chronograph switching, a large screw-weighted balance wheel complete with a hand-crafted Breguet overcoil hairspring in blued steel (naturally beating at a stately 18,000 vph), and bridges with nicely chamfered edges, as well as a grained finish finely garnished with a layer of reddish Sedna gold for that extra degree of distinction. (This was the movement which featured in the Speedmasters which saw the moon’s surface, after all.)
A special feature of the caseback view of the Canopus 321 Speedmaster, compared to its no-less coveted 321 siblings, is a sapphire glass etched with the famous Hippocampus/seahorse logo. My first reaction to this was one of slight disappointment because I felt it detracted from an ability to see the lovely 321 movement; after looking more closely, I began to appreciate the detail itself, and one in particular: the tiny blue eye of the seahorse creature is an actual sapphire gemstone, which Omega has painstakingly set into the sapphire back glass. They achieved this by creating a minuscule laser-carved indentation into the sapphire glass, into which a platinum setting complete with the sapphire gemstone is placed! Needless to say, it’s a really incredible detail, and an impressive feat of Omega’s manufacturing prowess, all while being very subtle and barely noticeable at most angles. Moreover, the sapphire Hippocampus is another example of the many labors of love this watch embodies, which barely reveal themselves unless you seek them.
A watch of this sort deserves a bracelet that is no less regal, and Omega delivered there as well. This classic flat-link bracelet, which shares the same design as the stainless steel 321 variant introduced previously, is crafted from the Omega’s proprietary Canopus 18K gold alloy, a formulation that is true to color all the way through, unlike typical white golds. Solid all the way through, and adding a stately heft to the special watch it supports, the design really strikes an balance between rugged construction, understated appearance, and just the right amount of polished surfaces to retain a dash of tasteful luxury. Even better, Omega added a concealed slider to the clasp to enable effortless tool-free adjustments of the bracelet to the tune of just over two millimeters, making this an all-season companion. This, combined with the delightfully compact–and to me, simply perfect 38.6mm case diameter–case, means this Omega showpiece has all the qualifications to be a regular player in a top-shelf rotation of watches, rather than a prissy benchwarmer best left in the safe. The 321 movement, despite its prestige, defined the early history of the Omega Speedmaster as a true tool watch for the ages, and is hardly a wilting violet in terms of ruggedness. You might not want to dish it out on something so beautiful, but this caliber has what it takes to roll with life’s vicissitudes, just like the watch housing it.
To me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus gold is a real treasure, and epitomizes the term “heirloom”. In a world awash with luxury watches, some of them very fine and many bearing lofty price tags, this one strikes me as something genuinely and memorably special. Rarely do you see a watch designed with little to no compromise, for the pure enthusiast; even among the most prestigious brands, many models compromise something here or there, to eke a little tighter profit margin out of the end product. Here is a watch that showcases a historic, hand-crafted chronograph mechanism within a timelessly beautiful vintage design from a golden era of wristwatches, and laden to the hilt with luxury materials, as well as discreet, thematic easter eggs of the most sublime variety. In discreet white gold, there is no overt ostentation, no showboating of any kind; the Canopus 321 could blend in anywhere, appearing to all the world like yet another smallish stainless steel chronograph, or just another humble off-the-rack Speedmaster at most. Yet, the robust nature of the watch, its historic capability as a tool, and the fine yet also unquestionably tough movement also means it has every bit the usability of its more attainable model brethren. While many buyers won’t put a watch this rare and expensive to the test, this is the kind of exquisite item that begs to be used, pleads for some honest wear, and gives it back at the end of the day with memories that can be passed on, just like the similarly coveted stainless steel and platinum versions of the resurrected 321 Speedmasters. Viewed as a comprehensive object of historic, yet imminently wearable luxury watchmaking at the highest level, the $81,000 price tag seems…well, if not a bargain, much, much easier to justify. I’ll go as far as to say that were I so able, my order for a Canopus 321 Calibre Speedmaster would already be in the queue at Omega.
