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Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime: Powerful Superflex Against The Crown

Posted on November 4, 2022November 4, 2022 by Adam Keith

(*The most complex watch Omega has ever produced, and a world premiere combination of complications*!)

The battle between Rolex and Omega for the heart and souls of buyers in the upper-mid tier segment of the Swiss watch industry is one of the enduring sagas of the luxury world. A strange thing to consider, given the age disparity between the two brands–Louis Brandt’s 1848 atelier that would later become the Greek symbol had a goodly head start on Rolex, which didn’t emerge from the consciousness of already enterprising young sales genius Hans Wilsdorf until 1908, and even further take shape as the watches we know and covet until 1926 onward. However, looking at it from the perspective of our current times, it’s still quite easy to forget that there is anything but Rolex as the dominant king, the very archetype, of what a luxury wristwatch is. Indeed, the Rolex inventions of an incredibly sturdy waterproof case, a revised and extremely reliable selfwinding movement of exceptional functional and chronometric excellence, and designs that have aged beautifully and consistently have all contributed to that assurance, and with it, the prowess of an object that has exceeded the very concept of a watch to become a talisman of success, or an alternative form of currency at times; of late, the Rolex aura has gone even farther into the realm of a speculative investment, for better or worse. In short, Rolex is a nonpareil within the market, when compared to products both below and well above its tier within horology. Much of that has certainly been due to an excellent product combined with equally superlative (*ahem*) marketing. If it weren’t for the latter, and the consistency of the brand message, would we still see Rolex as we do? When considering Omega’s own massive contributions to horology for well over a century, some may begin to wonder a bit, and when products like THIS are revealed…it also begs the question, is it an outright travesty that Omega isn’t the undisputed master in this ongoing battle for buyer affection?

(A fusion between high tech and traditional watchmaking craft, the 1932 Caliber is extensively hand-finished, including its bridges of frosted 18K “Sedna” gold. The beautifully beveled hammers stand ready to strike the gongs when activated, and the Co-Axial Escapement with it’s silicon hairspring ensures antimagnetic resilience to 15,000 Gauss.)

Behold the new 18K Sedna gold Speedmaster Chrono Chime and consider what watchmaking fireworks it brings to the table. The most complicated Omega caliber to date, and replete with the now obligatory Co-Axial Escapement, as well as a master chronometer certification, it offers the world’s first minute repeater variant on the beloved chronograph complication, and not just any chronograph complication mind you, but the notoriously complex split-second variety (all complete with a rapid 5Hz balance frequency and the resultant 1/10th second timing precision)! But let’s get back to the most romantic part of this highly technical watch, and what makes it a different from the already prestigious “normal” minute repeater: as a standalone complication, the typical repeater chimes the hours in a low tone, the quarter hours with a high-low combination, and the remaining minutes on top (if any) in individual treble peals when the slide piece on the case is activated. In the Speedmaster Chime, the minute repeating mechanism chimes not the hours and minutes of the time your watch shows, but rather the elapsed time presented by the chronograph display after its use to measure a sequence. So for example, if you were to activate and run the chronograph for 5 minutes, and 53 seconds, and then halt it before activating the repeater mechanism, you’ll hear a series of these notes: low tone (x 5) to indicate the five minutes, a high/low combination x 3 (to represent the three quarters up to :45), and a finale of eight individual treble tones to mark the individual minutes. The tempo of these strikes is beautifully controlled by a patented governor mechanism to allow maximum sonority and clarity of sound as well, something which only a few of the greatest companies (like Patek Philippe) really have down to a wondrous science. Have a listen for yourself here, to hear what you can expect should an Omega Chrono Chime cross your path.

(*A dial of starry aventurine glass enamel, and beautiful guilloched details but scratch the surface of the complexity and craft contained beneath*)

Omega’s long and rich brand heritage is sometimes lost in a sea of limited edition offerings, and I think–as many probably have lamented as well–that this has been its biggest consistent weakness. It is, perhaps, an inevitability with Omega’s status as the commercially mightiest brand within a corporate portfolio of the mighty Swatch Group, where new (and not always inspired) product is constantly being produced to keep brand revenue and stock market share prices up. Yet, while this Devil’s Due of having the might of the corporate giant behind it has had this occasionally cheapening effect on the perception by hobbyists, the very considerable positive side has been hugely deep pockets to develop the horological might of the great Omega, much as we’ve seen with smaller, more niche brands in the group, such as Breguet and Blancpain. Indeed, it was the deep high horology expertise of the group’s sister Blancpain brand, which was tapped to bring this project to fruition, a long-term benefit to both maisons, at least as far as I see the situation. And make no mistake, the inspiration of creations like the Chrono Chime (as well as other less complex but appealing releases) certainly make up for the occasional Swatch Group peccadillo here and there.

(Holder of 15 patents, and 5 years in development before release, Omega’s Chime caliber comprises 575 hand finished parts. On top of its exceptional complications, it offers 1/10th second timing precision, and all the remarkable magnetism resistance of a Master Chronometer)

Despite what sometimes seems to be, Omega as a whole is much, much more than gimmicky Agent 007-themed divers, and the umpteenth basic Speedmaster Moon Watch edition. Nor is it even “just” about making dependable everyday luxury watches of fine quality at reasonable prices, such as the versatile Aqua Terra or the now-iconic wave-dialed Seamaster 300M line. Omega is a brand that has crossed horological disciplines like few others. As a start, its fanatical devotion to chronometric excellence through the years is remarkable, and like arch-competitor Rolex, Omega have devoted themselves to manufacturing series-produced movements of exceptional practical quality, culminating in the series production of the Daniel’s Co-Axial Escapement, a really remarkable thing if you consider the almost universal hegemony of the Swiss Lever across the watch industry. Omega’s long-standing commitment to creating tool watches suitable for adventures above the earth, and below the deepest oceans is equally impressive, and while Rolex may have great chops in this arena as well, Omega’s mightiest technical watches of both past and present can rival anything the crown has made, and sometimes arguably surpass them. And while haute horlogerie has not been the Omega’s bread and butter compared to the great Swiss patricians like Vacheron Constantin, AP, or Patek, the brand from Biel has certainly produced more than their fair share of remarkable tourbillon watches (both within the parameters of chronometer competitions and production watches such as the Central Tourbillon), minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and of course…exquisite and innovative chronographs, such as the masterpiece under discussion. None of this sort of mechanical art can be claimed by Rolex, and while one can say that this isn’t Rolex’s game and be right in so doing, it means that Omega offers a combination of diversity, quality, watchmaking prestige, and technical audacity–all with a certain humility of sorts–that is scarcely matched by anyone. It’s been said by a lot of fans that Omega has been on a real roll for the past decade, and I’d have to agree. While not many may have the resources to buy a Speedmaster Chrono Chime or its more subtly luxurious mechanical twin, the 1932 Chrono Chime seen below, the unadulterated watchmaking craft and engineering behind this titan is a tacit nod to the ingenuity and quality contained, albeit in smaller measure, within every Omega currently offered, as well as many references from the past. In a world where luxury watch delivered value is seemingly ever more smoke and mirrors, that kind of authentic prestige is the sort that can make one really proud to wear and support a brand.

(The “other” version of the magnificent Chrono Chime is seen here, in the “Olympic 1932”, an homage to classic Omega sports chronographs which cemented Omega’s proud status as official timer of the Olympic Games. *While more austere than the Speedmaster Chrono Chime, with movement oriented differently to shift the subdials, it has a charming pocket-watch adapted style and a classic hand-fired enamel dial*)

Love Or Loathe It, 2022’s Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Launch Has Us Talking About Watches Like Never Before, And What They Mean On A Deeper Level

Posted on April 9, 2022April 9, 2022 by Adam Keith

With Watches and Wonders behind us, there were some superlative releases from many brands, and some controversial ones, like Rolex’s left-handed “Riddler” GMT-Master II, that created plenty of chatter. But all of them paled in comparison to the impact of the collaboration between Swatch Group superstars Omega, and that purveyor of fun Swiss made plastic quartz watches, Swatch. The community has nearly torn itself asunder in the recent week, with many being vociferous fans of the collaboration, seeing it as a fun exercise in democratizing luxury–at least as a concept. Many others have been decidedly unimpressed, offering equally passionate vitriol and disdain that a luxury brand of historic import would besmirch itself with a cheapening move solely for apparent short-term publicity and little else.

As an admitted fan of the collaboration, what I find interesting, is less the watches themselves, but the reactions they’ve provoked and the scuttlebutt they’ve created within a community that’s grown stagnant with never-ending valuation and scarcity discussions. More specifically, I find myself questioning what those reactions say about what we ourselves value. Is this hobby an inclusive one, or a good ol’ boys club for high-net-worth individuals and established players? Is it just an opportunity to get some photos on social media and move on? Is it a place one can learn and grow in, or be forced to admit you just don’t belong? I suppose it depends upon whom you ask, but it’s fairly clear that watches are not as readily attainable, in material reality, or even a topic of welcoming discussion, as they were even a short decade ago. Can the Omega MoonSwatch right that wrong? I think it can, possibly, or if not, at very least begin illuminating the way to a better place…a place we were not so terribly long ago. But I digress.

While my own interest in all things horological began in my early teens, it wasn’t until I began hanging around authorized retailers, talking to watch collectors, reading books on the subject, and through some fortuitous circumstances, getting my first couple “serious” pieces (from Rolex and Patek Philippe) that I really became really and truly hooked. This time period was a rather glorious one for budding and long-time watch lovers alike: the internet community at large was as fresh and new, with forums everywhere bursting with fresh energy, and decidedly enthusiastic discussions about all aspects of watches, from brand historical paths, to the smallest decorative minutiae, and functional and technical nuances. Stalwarts like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and even lofty Patek Philippe–still largely word of mouth at that time amongst cognoscenti, and not a pop culture phenom like it is now, as hard as that may be to imagine for newcomers to the scene–were compared and contrasted against then new and rapidly emerging luxury brands (many now sadly gone), as well as craftily and creatively revived ones. Well-known examples of the latter included Blancpain, which had been re-imagined by the brilliant Jean-Claude Biver, and then sold in the early 1990s to the Swatch Group, who now had an in-group high end competitor to their already topmost star, Breguet. New and exciting brands headed by superstar virtuoso watchmakers such as the late Roger Dubuis also joined the fray. Tourbillons, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars proliferated from brands across the alphabet, as did the sizes of watches, to house the seeming never-to-end proliferation of innovation, complication, and sybaritic audacity.

This period of fruitful abundance would of course eventually lead to the excessive glut of luxury watches seen just before the economic debacle of 2008/2009, but that’s looking at things with the luxury of hindsight. You might compare it to the innocent days of “free love” and drug experimentation in the early 1960s before things got much uglier, existentially confused, and more cynical towards the start of the 70s. However you slice it, though, the late 90s and early 2000s were a wonderful time to be alive in the watch world. Arguments happened, to be certain, and egos got hurt on occasion, but conversations were ever abundant, there was a strong sense of community, and people of all watch collecting genres seemed to genuinely enjoy sharing their passion for things that ticked, regardless of escapement type, power source, brand, or price point. Watch Get-Togethers were a common occurrence in major metropoli, with stunners from A. Lange & Sohne, and Patek Philippe cohabiting happily at the table with (then!) run-of-the mill Rolex Submariners, Zenith El Primeros, the odd pre-LVMH Hublot, vintage pocket watches, an occasional independent masterpiece, and even digital watches like Casio and Citizen. If that weren’t enough to miss, Authorized Dealers of all major brands were comfortably stocked with watches, modest to occasionally generous discounts could be obtained on most models from even the most aristocratic marques, and one seldom had to wait terribly long to obtain a grail watch, once funds were ready….oh sure, you might have to pay a bit of a premium for a new watch in the glow of post-Baselworld hype, to be an early adopter, but with a few model exceptions you could get what you wanted relatively easily, without fuss or politicking, and be treated well by sellers even if you weren’t an oligarch or one-soon-to-be. It truly was an age of glory, sort of a watch collecting version of King Arthur’s Camelot before the destruction of the round table, and a kingdom’s fall from grace.

“*Mission to Mars*” (*This one is a fan favorite,* *due to its styling cues that recall the Alaska Project Speedmaster)*

But, like Camelot, this moment in time was as brief as it was shining, and one which has passed into nostalgic memory. Watches have become speculative, grossly materialistic in all too many cases, and shallow vessels of the most base speculation. As the exploratory fun has been gradually siphoned away in the past decade, so too has the community which once participated waned in numbers and atrophied. As the most coveted brands become less available, and ever higher priced, customers steadily yet relentlessly migrated to other competitors, and so on, and then from one model to the next with the same cycle repeating itself (witness the values progression of the Patek Philippe Nautilus to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series, to finally, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas line, as a stark example) Finally, we are at a stage wherein Rolex dealers are now entirely devoid of any stock, and even once ho-hum model lines like the venerable but not terribly exciting Datejust in two-tone configurations are suddenly white hot “must haves” selling for well over list price, as buyers desperate for social media viewers moved on from the impossible-to-acquire sport models, and began frenzy feeding on the base ranges.

With this dire situation only growing in scope, some collectors and would-be enthusiasts shifted to small micro-brands and independents to assuage their longings, while others decided to sit things out, and yet more gave up the watch hobby entirely in disgust and disillusionment. While there is no dearth of watch fans both established and new who enjoy their watches even now, this ledge of diminished experience is largely the precipice upon which we stand as 2022 marches on. And yet, this same year, one watch more than any other made the community look up, and reevaluate…perhaps even smile and laugh. Yes, that would be the MoonSwatch, this delightful, silly, possibly even profane and utterly ridiculous collaboration between Omega—a titan of classical Swiss watchmaking lore–and Swatch, a longtime purveyor of inexpensive fun, provocation, and the much more democratized aspect of the storied land of Helvetia.

But back to the MoonSwatch, and what it is…or isn’t. I do understand the concerns that a marriage between Omega and Swatch could cheapen the Omega brand, specifically the all-powerful icon in the latter’s brand palette…the eternal Speedmaster. There is definitely some validity to this, and I think a lot there depends upon how long the collaboration goes on, and how deep the connection runs into the model range. Omega, and its Swatch Group sibling, Swatch, should tread carefully here, far less for the detriment to Swatch–which stands to benefit–but the old stalwart Omega, who’s name carries quite a bit of nobility, despite more than a few missteps over the years, including far too many limited editions that have diluted brand equity compared to laser-focused arch-competitors such as Rolex. Despite that, Omega has, for me at least, done more than perhaps any other brand to remain a beacon of impressive watchmaking innovation and horological prestige that somehow seems attainable and for lack of a better word, humanistic. The Speedmaster Professional itself, possibly more than any other watch ever made, is less a refined mechanical chronograph than a vessel of the best impulses of collective Mankind, a talisman that reminds us that despite our ages-long savagery, the human creature can collaborate, innovate for the greater good, and strive far beyond to transcend the very bounds of our planetary bond. That combination of mechanical virtue and civilized intangibles is one of the primary reasons I cherish my own 3861-powered Omega Speedy Pro, and find enjoyment in it all out of proportion to its cult status as a classic hand-wound chronograph.

With that established, could there be a better watch model for such a globally inclusive collaboration than the iconic Speedmaster design? I think not. Multiple things can be true at once…and indeed, the naysayers may be correct in their assessment that this is merely a marketing coup for Omega and its parent company to garner publicity in the shadow of Rolex, or even, a gateway drug to capture a new generation of watch lovers that don’t yet have the budget for “the real thing”, or whatever. Others have pointed out that the mindblowing lines seen in Swatch stores at the historic product launch were made up less of the truly passionate watch fan, but the same flippers and profiteers that have ruined everything else, eager to take their $260 battery-powered quartz watch and turn it into a quick $2,000 + online, all to supply the click additions of social media addicts who simply can’t wait for the Swatch online release at the accessible retail price. And yet, in my heart of hearts, I feel the frenetic post-launch hype will subside soon enough and the MoonSwatch will capture its proper audience in earnest—the passionate lover of watches, who regardless of budget, simply wants to rediscover joy in actually wearing, and sharing, a cool wristwatch with a near-mythic backstory.

*“Mission to the Moon”*...the closest MoonSwatch to the Speedy Pro. Your full-blooded Omega should feel no threat, I opine.

It is beyond past the time to bring some passion back to this hobby, to let people discuss the origins behind models and brands, and get newcomers and those who’ve long been around the scene alike to questioning and feeling what it was–and is–that excites them about these strange little timekeeping machines that play shockingly little actual role in our high-tech world, yet create such sense of connection and passion. The discussion itself–beyond what the watch is or isn’t–can only be to the good, I suspect, and possibly ignite a much larger, and lifelong interest in watchmaking at large for a new troop of WIS. Perhaps from there, a gradual trickle-down will occur that triggers an eventual return to comparative reality for brands across the spectrum. Excessive idealism in a very complex global economy beset with issues far beyond luxury goods on their own merits? Quite possibly, but….one can dream!

The status players and speculators in the hobby may never understand, and that’s perfectly fine. There are many valid reasons to collect watches, statements of wealth and prestige signaling included, and we all must recognize that. Yet, admirers of watches who simply find excitement in all things horological, will find no threat in the MoonSwatch, and possibly much to love. Judging by reactions around the globe, the positive vibes have come from all ends of the net worth continuum. To that end, the Swatch/Omega collaboration, and their controversial product in all of its celestial variations, may just in fact be the sort of horological hero we need in these difficult times, even if it wasn’t the one we expected!

Omega Kicks Off 2022 In Fine Style With The Ultimate Speedmaster Chronograph

Posted on January 8, 2022January 8, 2022 by Adam Keith

Happy New Year everyone! 2022 is here, and Omega has set it off with their own very bold New Year Resolution: the creation of, quite possibly, the ultimate iteration of their legendary Speedmaster chronograph, just in time for the grand watch’s 65th anniversary. Now, understand that when I say that, I take fully into account the exceptional depth of the Speedmaster’s history both within Omega’s brand story arc, and the staggering breadth of the Speedmaster collection, itself. That latter aspect can be awe-inspiring on one hand and occasionally tiresome on the other, given the plethora of limited edition examples and commemorative releases that leave one somewhat numb to the nature of what “special” really is. In this instance, no confusion exists, nor is there any need for some limited edition marketing gimmick to convey the point: the execution in this watch more than suffices.

This watch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is an extraordinary reference in every aspect, from the luxury materials it’s crafted from, the movement which powers it, and the true-to-heritage design honoring one of the most beloved, iconic chronographs ever created by Omega. It’s price tag is…well, pretty staggering, especially compared against even basic precious metal models of more basic Speedies, but I can’t say that it surprises me. The Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is a watch for a select few, not just those well-endowed of wallet, but those with the deepest possible reverence for the history behind the Speedmaster collection, and a desire to own something which is exceedingly special, yet barely whispers as it enters the room. But what is whispered, is oh so sweet. You might say this is the Omega chronograph equivalent of a platinum or white gold Patek Philippe minute repeater with enamel dial, like the legendary Ref. 3939. Even beyond the price and rarity, only a select few of the cognoscenti will understand (or even perceive the significance what they’re looking at) and that’s the whole point behind pieces like these, which raise a proverbial glass of the finest to the dedicated lovers. As mentioned, it doesn’t even need to be a limited edition, in strict terms anyway; the Canopus 321 will remain in production on the go forward, being limited by the small quantity of 321 movements to be produced by Omega annually, the exclusive materials, and the even smaller enthusiast base who will commit the high five figures needed to secure the most expensive Speedmaster in current production.

Before the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was, and the entire connection to space exploration and steps on the moon, the Speedmaster was. Simply, the humble yet very capable Omega Speedmaster, a chronograph intended for race car drivers, and others who might find the chronograph and its supplementary tachymeter scale useful for calculating average speeds and other rates of measure, as well as marking off elapsed time for more mundane tasks. And the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold pays homage–very faithful homage I’ll add–to that first Speedmaster model from 1957, the distinctive and unmistakably period CK2915. How faithful? Well, Omega has managed to duplicate the exact 38.6mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug length, and even the overall thickness of the watch at just under 14mm, even to include the crystal profile despite the modern one being in a modern sapphire material, against than the 2915’s 1950’s-typical acrylic. Yet, despite with the upgrade to sapphire, the beautiful cambered shape remains, and even features an engraved Omega logo on the inside, recalling this traditional mark still seen on the inside surface of hesalite-topped Speedies.

So, it’s faithful to the historic predecessor, in much the same way as the much more attainable 1957 Broad Arrow Speedmaster from 2017 was. Yet, there is so much more with the Canopus 321 to take this Speedmaster into a level of artistry almost touching in its dedication and thoroughness. Take for example the tachymeter bezel, whose markings you might think are filled in to the Canopus gold material with a durable glossy paint, but are actually in grand feu enamel, laid down in several layers and kiln fired multiple times to fix it to the gold, and then assure the splendid, glossy final appearance. The dial is created with similar love for both perfection and luxurious appointment. No paint to be found anywhere, this one is created from the gemstone black onyx, in a meticulous tripartite construction: the back plate, of brass has three applied onyx subdials for the chronograph registers, another onyx layer, with the appropriate cutouts, is placed atop that to create a charming step effect, and finally an outer ring in the same material shows the minutes and seconds markings in absolute clarity. A white gold hand-set, each given a treatment with the greyer toned Canopus gold to match the case, completes the functional work of art. Yet despite all of this opulence, the vintage tool nature of the timepiece is undiminished, preserving the ethos of this classic of classic vintage sport chronographs. To me, the total package is absolutely triumphal!

(*The famous 321 caliber, and the laser-etched Hippocampus, it’s eye inset in a blue sapphire gemstone*)

Omega’s decision to reissue the famous 321 caliber, painstakingly created from blueprints of the original Lemania-based chronograph mechanism used in early Speedmasters, got a lot of press in the last couple years, first in the flagship platinum 321 model, and after that, the highly coveted stainless steel version that still commands a substantial waiting list, and high aftermarket prices. Unlike most other Omega calibers which see multiple watchmaker’s hands in their assembly line type of construction, each 321 is fully the responsibility of a single watchmaker in a special atelier of the brand dedicated to these chronograph movements. Beyond this fact, which necessarily limits the numbers which can be produced each year compared to more industrialized movements (like the new 3861), are a number of horological niceties the high horology lover will adore: a column wheel control for the chronograph switching, a large screw-weighted balance wheel complete with a hand-crafted Breguet overcoil hairspring in blued steel (naturally beating at a stately 18,000 vph), and bridges with nicely chamfered edges, as well as a grained finish finely garnished with a layer of reddish Sedna gold for that extra degree of distinction. (This was the movement which featured in the Speedmasters which saw the moon’s surface, after all.)

A special feature of the caseback view of the Canopus 321 Speedmaster, compared to its no-less coveted 321 siblings, is a sapphire glass etched with the famous Hippocampus/seahorse logo. My first reaction to this was one of slight disappointment because I felt it detracted from an ability to see the lovely 321 movement; after looking more closely, I began to appreciate the detail itself, and one in particular: the tiny blue eye of the seahorse creature is an actual sapphire gemstone, which Omega has painstakingly set into the sapphire back glass. They achieved this by creating a minuscule laser-carved indentation into the sapphire glass, into which a platinum setting complete with the sapphire gemstone is placed! Needless to say, it’s a really incredible detail, and an impressive feat of Omega’s manufacturing prowess, all while being very subtle and barely noticeable at most angles. Moreover, the sapphire Hippocampus is another example of the many labors of love this watch embodies, which barely reveal themselves unless you seek them.

A watch of this sort deserves a bracelet that is no less regal, and Omega delivered there as well. This classic flat-link bracelet, which shares the same design as the stainless steel 321 variant introduced previously, is crafted from the Omega’s proprietary Canopus 18K gold alloy, a formulation that is true to color all the way through, unlike typical white golds. Solid all the way through, and adding a stately heft to the special watch it supports, the design really strikes an balance between rugged construction, understated appearance, and just the right amount of polished surfaces to retain a dash of tasteful luxury. Even better, Omega added a concealed slider to the clasp to enable effortless tool-free adjustments of the bracelet to the tune of just over two millimeters, making this an all-season companion. This, combined with the delightfully compact–and to me, simply perfect 38.6mm case diameter–case, means this Omega showpiece has all the qualifications to be a regular player in a top-shelf rotation of watches, rather than a prissy benchwarmer best left in the safe. The 321 movement, despite its prestige, defined the early history of the Omega Speedmaster as a true tool watch for the ages, and is hardly a wilting violet in terms of ruggedness. You might not want to dish it out on something so beautiful, but this caliber has what it takes to roll with life’s vicissitudes, just like the watch housing it.

Three distinct dial components in onyx make this one exceptional Speedmaster dial! Yet, the functionality and clarity are undiminished.

To me, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus gold is a real treasure, and epitomizes the term “heirloom”. In a world awash with luxury watches, some of them very fine and many bearing lofty price tags, this one strikes me as something genuinely and memorably special. Rarely do you see a watch designed with little to no compromise, for the pure enthusiast; even among the most prestigious brands, many models compromise something here or there, to eke a little tighter profit margin out of the end product. Here is a watch that showcases a historic, hand-crafted chronograph mechanism within a timelessly beautiful vintage design from a golden era of wristwatches, and laden to the hilt with luxury materials, as well as discreet, thematic easter eggs of the most sublime variety. In discreet white gold, there is no overt ostentation, no showboating of any kind; the Canopus 321 could blend in anywhere, appearing to all the world like yet another smallish stainless steel chronograph, or just another humble off-the-rack Speedmaster at most. Yet, the robust nature of the watch, its historic capability as a tool, and the fine yet also unquestionably tough movement also means it has every bit the usability of its more attainable model brethren. While many buyers won’t put a watch this rare and expensive to the test, this is the kind of exquisite item that begs to be used, pleads for some honest wear, and gives it back at the end of the day with memories that can be passed on, just like the similarly coveted stainless steel and platinum versions of the resurrected 321 Speedmasters. Viewed as a comprehensive object of historic, yet imminently wearable luxury watchmaking at the highest level, the $81,000 price tag seems…well, if not a bargain, much, much easier to justify. I’ll go as far as to say that were I so able, my order for a Canopus 321 Calibre Speedmaster would already be in the queue at Omega.