Tag: Cartier

Cartier Pebble 2022: Ravishing Style At The Intersection of Fine Watchmaking And High Jewelry

(It’s back! One of the rarest Cartier beauties has reappeared for 2022 as a numbered, limited edition of 150 pieces)

Just look at it. Those sensual curves, the intersection between the 18K gold case, which almost appears as it were a melting cube of finest butter, and the inverted square crystal which seems melting back into the former in turn. It is a subtle duet to bewitch the eye and create the illusion that the iconically elongated Roman numerals are bending and distorting, yet that impression is not deceptive enough to take away from instant readability of the time shown upon the impeccable canvas of discreet eggshell white. Upon it, where we note the famous “CARTIER” signature tucked away within the seven marker, fire-blued sword hands slowly move their way through the implacable passage of time, in steady measure with absolute confidence that only the most stylish objects–much like rare individuals–can project. The Cartier Pebble, a reissue of an extremely scarce Cartier wristwatch dating to the early 1970s and produced in only the smallest handful, is back and destined to take its place among the most beautiful and iconic Cartier designs….even if we discount the almost dismissive nickname it acquired here in the United States, suggesting our most famous pastime and the shape of the field that sport is played on. And if we talk about icons and the name Cartier in the same breath, there’s certainly been no shortage of those since the multi-generational family of jewelers and artists made the eponymous brand a near synonym with the highest points of refined luxury, confident iconic design, and refined workmanship. The client list over the many decades since the early 1900s on certainly speaks for itself.

(Do clothes–or a watch–make the man, or woman? A Pebble must at least increase one’s debonair factor considerably! The one pictured is one of the rare originals, which inspired this edition. With few minor exceptions, the reissue is nearly identical)

Models like the Tank (and its many scintillating variations such as the Asymetrique), the Santos, the Tortue, and the playful, nearly psychedelic Crash are visual icons almost without peer in the world of luxury at large, instantly recognizable and classic, yet dashing and stimulating to the senses. While the Cartier brand is no stranger to making fine mechanical watches, occasionally even highly complicated ones, they are just as often seen as a house of fine jewelry, and alternately as a house of high fashion. In truth, the multiple identities of Cartier overlap endlessly, creating something of a unique phenomenon in the world of luxury. For me, it’s always been the magical simplicity of the greatest Cartier watches that distinguished these pieces, and even if dress watches haven’t often been my number one go-to, how could you say no to owning (or fantasizing about owning) something so beautiful as the Pebble? It would almost be worth going out and getting a fantastical, dapper wardrobe merely to keep pace with the watch itself! There aren’t many ticking objects for the wrist that get one into that mindset, but Cartier is among the few that invite such impractical flights of fancy.

(The Crash–another unusual yet impossibly attractive Cartier wristwatch, very different from the Pebble, yet of the same creative cloth)

And what of the Pebble Reissue, and its origins? Produced in a very small series of six to perhaps ten watches in 1973, and then only for the daring London market, it remains one of the rarest and least discussed Cartier wristwatches, despite that it seems something so effortlessly debonair and surefooted as to be a natural addition to more typically encountered Cartier models like the aforementioned Tank or Santos. Like those classics, but subtly quirkier in keeping with the wilder times it was born in, the Pebble is simple, yet somehow enticing–a pillowy round 36mm case of yellow gold, with a square crystal tipped on its edge are the basic ingredients, yet the resultant product is indeed compelling to both eye and fingers. Appealingly thin thanks to the manual-winding movement that animates it, it lives up to its name–appearing like a smooth little rock rounded by countless eons of tossing by the rolling ocean. Grasping the little golden crown with its row of beaded projections and the gleaming sapphire cabochon set atop, it goes without saying that winding this watch to get the balance wheel swinging would be a true delight, and the fairly short 38 hour power reserve of the Piaget base caliber would only mean more opportunity to interact. The lack of small seconds is also an advantage here, as its absence gives a sense of serenity that would be lost with the extra hand whizzing about, and really….this is a watch that should take us away from anxiety over time’s passage, and into the pure of enjoyment of the finer things that can occupy it. It would be hoped that your time is full of enjoyable experiences; and, if you’re wearing this watch, I think it’s safe to say the odds of that being the case are certainly greater than average. (And if not, they’ve certainly gotten one hell of a lot better.)

The only regrettable point to this utterly charming gold wristwatch is the sheer scarcity of them. Just 150 will be made, and while that’s a goodly greater quantity than the original, it will remain a rare and hard to acquire item. I suppose that’s the way of truly desirable luxury, though. The nearly $45,000 price is quite a high hurdle as well, and while I can certainly agree there are far more technically artful watches with simple three handed displays and for considerably less money to boot (the delicious A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin, for example), there is a certain intangible design magic to this watch for the right buyer, that will simply prove irresistible against even the most lofty horological champions. That, in a nutshell, is the power of Cartier.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: A Mechanical Wonder In Deceptively Simplistic Form

There are many wondrous mechanical watches, from stately tourbillons, maddeningly complex chain-and-fusees, dulcet-toned minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and intricate split-second chronographs being just a few of the hallowed. We admire them because they encapsulate centuries of tradition as well as undeniable mastery of truly skilled watchmakers dedicated to constructing painstaking and delicate mechanisms. Even if those of us who aren’t engineers or horological surgeons really understand them fully, we sort of get what they do with gentle and patient explanation (and maybe a few detailed illustrations or animations), and how they do it, at least in the most layman sense. Yet, there are certain mechanical debuts that simply challenge our perception of the very basics of a watch and how it operates, like the first Ulysse Nardin “Freak” at the start of the new milennium, (which incidentally just underwent an insane revision of its own, well worthy of another blog in the near future), or the various “Horological Machines” from MB&F. But today, I’m discussing the fabulous Cartier Masse Mysterieuse–the “Mystery (Winding) Mass”–a watch which has taken the better part of eight years to bring from initial concept to fruition, such were the challenges posed in its creation. Automatic mechanical watches are as common as blades of grass, but how about one who’s self-winding mechanism also contains the very movement it feeds power to? Here we have a timepiece which really comes off as less a piece of mechanical engineering, than an object of some strange mechanical-magic conjuring, all while wrapped within the apparent–yet highly deceptive–veil of elegant simplicity. How did Cartier do it?

The answer to this 4 Hertz ticking riddle, in part, can be found in a system of four all-but invisible fine toothed sapphire discs–their edge hidden beneath the Roman hour track at the dial edge–each supporting the moving parts such as the hands, the rotor contained movement and the wheel which bears them. Two additional sapphire crystals cover the dial and back, respectively, in standard fashion. However, within Cartier’s deceptively simple three-handed mechanism, is an ingenious differential gearing which permits the hands to be driven with independence, and without any interference, from the apparently suspended and free-floating mechanism! While the Mystery mechanism has been a delight and bafflement for Cartier buyers and admirers since the brand’s clocks of the same moniker first debuted in early 20th century, the Masse Mysterieuse takes things to another level, and unifies the brand’s mastery in both that specialized metier, and the more broadly seen, yet no less tricky, horological art of the skeletonized, or openworked, movement.

(Note the beautifully beveled, open-worked rotor which shows off the entire watch mechanism, including the escapement and going train)

Add everything together, and the result is astonishingly striking and beautifully whimsical, a near-fantasy expression of Cartier’s typical penchant for Parisian high style, and impeccable Swiss high craftsmanship. It should also be noted that the watch is yet another brilliant technical coup for Carole Forestier-Kasapi, a veritable Wonder Woman in the realm of high watchmaking, and a creator and deep contributor to more than a few headscratchingly innovative complicated watches over the years, including the famous Ulysse Nardin Freak mentioned above. While she’s now creating Tomorrow’s marvels for TAG-Heuer, her more than decade long tenure at Cartier certainly ends on the most triumphal of notes with this reference!

(Yes, you’ll see your hand through the watch, but I’m certain that’s an aesthetic price well worth paying for this very special Cartier!)

The Cartier Masse Mysterieuse is a unique statement, one which is delicate and refined on the one hand, yet bold and attention getting with its 43.5mm diameter platinum case. Some might not be enthused that you can see your hand (hair and all, as the case may be for some) through the sapphire construction, but that’s the nature of this very special mechanical beauty. Price is set at just over $275,000 in its basic form with hand-sewn alligator strap seen here, limited to 30 pieces. But Cartier will also offer spectacular baguette diamond-set variants (topping out at over $1M for the version with full set platinum bracelet) that also flex Cartier’s might as a jeweler with few peers, and no masters. For the ten individuals able to score one of those, or the thirty who’ll grab the sans joaillerie version for that matter, I doubt the price of entry is more than a financial formality. For the rest of us, Watches and Wonders 2022 was a fantastic opportunity to appreciate what the house of Cartier can do when all constraint is removed, and creativity takes glorious wing.