Just look at it. Those sensual curves, the intersection between the 18K gold case, which almost appears as it were a melting cube of finest butter, and the inverted square crystal which seems melting back into the former in turn. It is a subtle duet to bewitch the eye and create the illusion that the iconically elongated Roman numerals are bending and distorting, yet that impression is not deceptive enough to take away from instant readability of the time shown upon the impeccable canvas of discreet eggshell white. Upon it, where we note the famous “CARTIER” signature tucked away within the seven marker, fire-blued sword hands slowly move their way through the implacable passage of time, in steady measure with absolute confidence that only the most stylish objects–much like rare individuals–can project. The Cartier Pebble, a reissue of an extremely scarce Cartier wristwatch dating to the early 1970s and produced in only the smallest handful, is back and destined to take its place among the most beautiful and iconic Cartier designs….even if we discount the almost dismissive nickname it acquired here in the United States, suggesting our most famous pastime and the shape of the field that sport is played on. And if we talk about icons and the name Cartier in the same breath, there’s certainly been no shortage of those since the multi-generational family of jewelers and artists made the eponymous brand a near synonym with the highest points of refined luxury, confident iconic design, and refined workmanship. The client list over the many decades since the early 1900s on certainly speaks for itself.
Models like the Tank (and its many scintillating variations such as the Asymetrique), the Santos, the Tortue, and the playful, nearly psychedelic Crash are visual icons almost without peer in the world of luxury at large, instantly recognizable and classic, yet dashing and stimulating to the senses. While the Cartier brand is no stranger to making fine mechanical watches, occasionally even highly complicated ones, they are just as often seen as a house of fine jewelry, and alternately as a house of high fashion. In truth, the multiple identities of Cartier overlap endlessly, creating something of a unique phenomenon in the world of luxury. For me, it’s always been the magical simplicity of the greatest Cartier watches that distinguished these pieces, and even if dress watches haven’t often been my number one go-to, how could you say no to owning (or fantasizing about owning) something so beautiful as the Pebble? It would almost be worth going out and getting a fantastical, dapper wardrobe merely to keep pace with the watch itself! There aren’t many ticking objects for the wrist that get one into that mindset, but Cartier is among the few that invite such impractical flights of fancy.
And what of the Pebble Reissue, and its origins? Produced in a very small series of six to perhaps ten watches in 1973, and then only for the daring London market, it remains one of the rarest and least discussed Cartier wristwatches, despite that it seems something so effortlessly debonair and surefooted as to be a natural addition to more typically encountered Cartier models like the aforementioned Tank or Santos. Like those classics, but subtly quirkier in keeping with the wilder times it was born in, the Pebble is simple, yet somehow enticing–a pillowy round 36mm case of yellow gold, with a square crystal tipped on its edge are the basic ingredients, yet the resultant product is indeed compelling to both eye and fingers. Appealingly thin thanks to the manual-winding movement that animates it, it lives up to its name–appearing like a smooth little rock rounded by countless eons of tossing by the rolling ocean. Grasping the little golden crown with its row of beaded projections and the gleaming sapphire cabochon set atop, it goes without saying that winding this watch to get the balance wheel swinging would be a true delight, and the fairly short 38 hour power reserve of the Piaget base caliber would only mean more opportunity to interact. The lack of small seconds is also an advantage here, as its absence gives a sense of serenity that would be lost with the extra hand whizzing about, and really….this is a watch that should take us away from anxiety over time’s passage, and into the pure of enjoyment of the finer things that can occupy it. It would be hoped that your time is full of enjoyable experiences; and, if you’re wearing this watch, I think it’s safe to say the odds of that being the case are certainly greater than average. (And if not, they’ve certainly gotten one hell of a lot better.)
The only regrettable point to this utterly charming gold wristwatch is the sheer scarcity of them. Just 150 will be made, and while that’s a goodly greater quantity than the original, it will remain a rare and hard to acquire item. I suppose that’s the way of truly desirable luxury, though. The nearly $45,000 price is quite a high hurdle as well, and while I can certainly agree there are far more technically artful watches with simple three handed displays and for considerably less money to boot (the delicious A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin, for example), there is a certain intangible design magic to this watch for the right buyer, that will simply prove irresistible against even the most lofty horological champions. That, in a nutshell, is the power of Cartier.