Tag: Swiss watch

Patek Philippe 5326G-001 Travel Time: Technical Panache Meets Casual Elegance, For A New Benchmark In Annual Calendars

Posted on by Adam Keith

Patek Philippe put on quite the impressive showing at Watches and Wonders this year, with some fantastic new references to enrich its distinguished catalog. The watch press has expended the fair measure of proverbial ink for good reason, and I’ll join the fray with my thoughts over one of the most lauded, the 5326G-001 Dual Time Annual Calendar. One of the most versatile and useful complicated watches the house has produced in years, it’s the sort of ticking treasure that a cynical horology geek can appreciate most after loving and losing many watches…largely in pursuit of that elusive grail that can accompany one no matter the occasion, yet embody the highest standards of craftsmanship. Refined yet pleasantly capable of casual wear thanks to its design nuances and material contrasts, the 5326G unifies an impressive mechanism with day to day practicality. The overall result is a watch that is deeply prestigious in the best way of the mythic house of Patek Philippe, yet totally wearable on a day to day basis, with a discreet and outwardly humble mien. It’s also an important watch because it represents an evolution of a Patek Philippe innovation–the annual calendar, a clever and well-conceived mechanism requiring a manual calendar correction solely at the start of March. It was Patek, after all, who brought the very first such complication to market back in 1996, offering watch lovers a somewhat more financially reachable–and, easier to live with from a servicing perspective–alternative to its exquisite perpetual calendar offerings. Of course, at just over $75,000 USD this is an eye-wateringly expensive bauble, as are most complicated Patek Philippes. But is it still a good value? As such odd anachronisms as finely crafted mechanical watches go from a brand as sought after as this, I’d say emphatically “yes”, however grotesque that may sound at purely face value. (If all else fails when you contemplate PP pricing vs availability, a quick look at various Nautilus valuations will make the innovative 5326G look like a comparative bargain!) But nevertheless, crass discussions about blue book numbers aren’t the point here, and the watch itself transcends those deftly with its charm and intelligence.

(An intricately made case, with numerous classical Patek Philippe design signatures, is a highlight of the 5326)

Vibes of the legendary Ref. 3448 “Padellone”–one of Patek’s greatest vintage perpetual calendars–are strong with this one, particularly through the strongly set off, attached lugs. This is a white gold case with character, and a strong one at that, but rich with many refined details, from the distinct angular strap horns, to the broad polished surfaces, particularly in the deliciously broad bezel that appeals to me in much the same way as the smooth bezels on the Rolex Explorer do. It’s an elegant and refined look, yet not overdone with bling. That…you’ll find on the case flanks, but tastefully so, where Patek’s trademark “Clous de Paris” hobnail lurks in a glorious 5-row high stack. These tiny, sharply defined diamonds of polished 18K gold reflect light play brilliantly, yet because of their location on the sides of the watch, are much more readily known to the wearer, than an observer from afar. Still, for the lucky one who has one of these buckled on, the complex contrasts create texture and intrigue and provide a delightful dichotomy against the comparative brute strength of the unusual and surprisingly sporty dial. At 41mm in diameter, the Ref. 5326 Annual Calendar is not a restrained dress Patek of old. Still, the diameter is appropriate to let the indications stretch their hands, so to speak, and the reasonably slim 11.7mm thickness means it’ll do no less ably in more formal environs.

The unusual granular dial is sure to divide people: Traditionalists of Patek Philippe may well feel it strangely rough and atypical of the classic and notably formal Patek Philippe opaline designs, while younger or more adventurous watch fans are sure to be refreshed by the interesting texture, and exotic vintage-inspired tonalities of burnt brown and ecru. That same sense of versatility and elegant sportiness is given further wings from the presence of impressive luminosity when the lights go down, courtesy of ample superluminova filling the white gold hands and Arabic hour plots. As you may have guessed, I’m squarely in the “fan camp”, finding the look of this model a welcome departure from the hyper-conservative Patek Philippe expectation, yet one that sacrifices none of the lasting aesthetic appeal a watch of this pedigree should have. Despite the unusual (but tasteful) dial, thanks to the overall design and intricate quality of the casework, the 5326G offers everything a Patek dress watch can muster. To reiterate my point at the start, this is one of those deeply memorable high horology pieces that has the rare combination of qualities that make it appropriate–and desirable–pretty much all the time, with the possible exception of aquatic adventure, where the 30m water resistance falls short of the requisite security most sensible buyers would be comfortable with. But beyond that constructive limitation, where couldn’t one love and enjoy the 5326G’s combination of rich materials, intricate textures, and inviting warm tones? And that’s even before considering the impressive mechanism that resides within, and what it offers, both technically and aesthetically.

(Luscious hand-applied Geneva waves, shapely finger bridges, and a platinum microrotor. The latter boosts winding efficiency nicely!)

A sapphire back is expected, and the view it delivers of the 31-260 (PS QA LU FUS 24H) caliber does not disappoint. Visually, the mechanism invokes the famous 240 microrotor caliber, but offers more to see than that stalwart, with classical Swiss separated “finger bridges” for the gear train exposing more of the inner secrets of power delivery. Deliciously broad Cotes de Geneve patterns give a tacit statement of the hand-finishing expertise involved; the anglage applied to the edges of the rhodium-plated bridges, while narrow, and not as deeply rounded as some competitors, is nonetheless attractive, and the baseplate sparkles with multiple sizes of perlage, a texture once applied to assist any errant dust from reaching the mechanism, but in an era of vastly better case sealing, becomes simply a charming thing to behold. The rotor, complete with the Calatrava cross and circular Geneva waves, is wrought from platinum–a material choice that is as notable for its winding efficiency, as much as any added prestige. The famous freely-sprung Gyromax balance is present, as expected, and should preserve the precision of the exacting 6-position adjustments the Patek Philippe watchmakers have given it, as it beats away at a modern 4Hz pulse. So, it’s clear that the 31-260 is a very nicely finished and constructed high horology movement, as you’d expect from this famous manufacture, yet, the devil is in the details of its 409 components, which unite to power an annual calendar as well as a backwards and forwards adjustable dual time display with day/night indication. Such was the challenge, that no less than eight patents define what lies behind the alluring, finely pebbled charcoal dial.

(View beneath the dial, showing the discs for day, month, date, moon phase, and dual day/night indication. 8 patents in all are behind it, and govern everything from practical functionality when crossing time zones, to protecting the mechanism from inadvertent damage)

The ultimate achievement of this movement, I think, is in its ability to convey the most useful supplementary information most of us would value, all while presenting a pleasing sense of serenity and simplicity. More and more in the frenzied hustle and bustle of the 21st century, I ask myself, does glancing down at (whichever) unnecessary mechanical watch happens to be on my wrist, add to…or detract from…my sense of calm and momentary presence? Can it transport me, as if by magic, to a place of order and harmony…even if only for a moment? This watch, as with so many classic Patek Philippe calendar watches of yesteryear, could pass that test with the most brilliant of flying colors! Despite telling us the day and month at the top of the dial, the phases of the moon inside the sub seconds dial at six, and the status of day/night indication in two time zones at once in two discreet and diminutive circular apertures, calm reigns in this impressively sophisticated complicated watch. Yet, and even better, it does this while retaining ease of operation. While the month and day/date are adjusted via classical caseband pushers (of which there are three) most of the hardest used functions, such as advancing the local hour hand in increments back or forwards, can be ideally operated via the crown, as a proper tool watch should. Did I just say “tool watch”?! Seems discordant where a fine Patek Philippe is concerned, but to a frequent world traveler or international professional, the 5326G certainly offers pleasing functionality fully equal to any more pedestrian options. And, unlike the sacrilege of using a priceless Kamakura-period katana to efficiently carve your turkey, or delimb an overgrown small tree, the team at Patek Philippe fully blesses your full-service use of this beautiful watch! They’ve clearly put a lot of thought into the well-heeled connoisseur who would use and cherish this rare but handy horological companion: just one example of this is the mechanism to drive the date change, now propelled directly by the local hour wheel, and significantly faster than any annual calendar reference previously offered. It assures that your calendar isn’t left too far behind (or ahead) as you switch the independently settable hour hand into a new time zone, a rather important detail. Yet, when you are relaxing in your own hemisphere, free from the hectic considerations of the business world, the skeletonized syringe hand representing home can remain discreetly tucked away beneath its primary white gold twin, returning us to the harmonious bliss hinted at earlier. Yet, OCD fanatics (and chronometry nerds) who delight in testing the precision of their watches against a reference time, will also appreciate that this innovative Patek Philippe movement also offers hacking seconds, for precise setting. A further nicety that speaks to the considerable refinements of the caliber is a reduction wheel that disconnects the auto-wind system during any time the piece is manually wound, saving just a little more wear and tear. Thoughtful, indeed, and clearly a watch designed by, and for, top notch watchmakers–another assurance that the heirloom status always expected of a Patek Philippe remains untarnished into the 21st century.

(Two supplied straps give the watch awesome versatility. In truth the 5326G will look amazing on many different straps!)

At the end of the day, the Reference 5326G is one of the all-around neatest watches to emerge from Patek Philippe in some time. To my way of thinking, it pays ample respect to the classic greatness of the fruitful era under Henri and Philippe Stern, while showing that heir to the throne Thierry has firmly grasped the scepter of rule to advance his own distinct vision of the house’s values. The fact that Patek is delivering these with two straps as standard procedure–the tan nubuck calf leather seen in the header, along with an additional embossed calf strap that looks shockingly like top-quality synthetic fabric–gives a hint of how much versatility was intended by the design team. All style-points aside, though, nothing about this piece deviates from the 183-year pursuit of watchmaking finesse and innovation that have propelled Patek Philippe to the summit of prestige in the Swiss high watchmaking hierarchy–and kept it there–despite very distinguished and capable competition.

(The white gold deployant clasp features the classic Calatrava cross of the Patek Philippe brand)

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma: A Heavy-Hitting Diamond Watch Worthy Of Attention For Reasons Well Beyond The Bling

Posted on by Adam Keith
(“Techniques d’ Avant Garde”–the TAG brand acronym, exceedingly well represented by this watch)

One need not desire or even find a watch attractive, to find it worthy of interest. At least that’s the way I feel, after having been exposed to more than my fair share of the ticking delights. Diamond and other gem set watches really, really aren’t my thing, and never have been, although…the more I’ve learned about truly masterfully created gem-set pieces (such as the Rolex “Rainbow” series) the more I do appreciate their subtle, and even the decidedly not-so-subtle charms. Then, there are some watches, such as the sublime Patek Philippe Ref. 5170P, or the glacier blue-dialed Rolex Daytona in platinum, in which the twinkle of a few crucially-set baguette diamonds at the hours simple adds pure magic to an already delicious piece of mechanical artistry. Too, there’s a lot of art involved, from the jeweler, or jewelers, who cut and set the stones, to the exacting gemologists who painstakingly choose them for color and clarity prior to the long tedium of creating the piece even starts. But I digress. What if we had before a us a watch which challenges and even changes the very way we perceive diamonds themselves; that is, from coveted precious stones wrenched from the ground in war-torn lands…which somehow become then a synonym for devotion in love, to high-tech laboratory created wonders that push manufacturing capabilities and offer exciting new materials for who knows how many applications in and outside of horology? I know the diamond industry of decades past might not appreciate the advances in laboratory produced diamonds, and maybe the stones don’t have the romance, however controversial, of the “real thing”, but the achievement is impressive. Moreover, the diamonds are real…even if they weren’t made like Mother Earth intended. (Heck, even De Beers itself has their own line of synthetics, so that should tell you all you need to know.) Marry those technological advances to a complicated mechanical watch, and sprinkle in some bold styling and dynamic material choices, and you have the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma, a daring and unquestionably unique introduction for 2022. Nor is its name–Plasma–just some futuristic sounding marketing mumbo jumbo; instead, it makes reference to the exacting process by which the laboratory-produced diamonds in this most unusual complicated watch come into existence.

(48 impeccably cut lab-produced diamonds grace the aluminum case, in a display of very organized gem-set chaos)

The fundamental combination which leads to carbon becoming the cherished form of the diamond as we generally know it–Time and Pressure–now comes from a quiet laboratory rather than the raging bowels of the earth. There, the processes are far less haphazard, and somewhat different in the way the “recipe” comes out, even if the chemical makeup and optical properties are ultimately identical. TAG Heuer has invested heavily into the production of laboratory-produced diamonds, which somewhat like modern laboratory-made corundum (sapphire), begins with a seed or seed of diamond material. Then the controlled magic begins, in a process called chemical vapor deposition whereby these diamond seeds are superheated in a gaseous plasma of hydrogen and carbon to the point that a chemical transformation mutates them into larger examples of diamond, identical in makeup and crystalline structure to traditionally mined ones.

(The distinctive atomic structure of diamond, as seen in a model rendering)

These carefully cultivated stones, of which TAG Heuer has emblazoned this watch with many, completely circumvent the controversy of naturally harvested diamonds, which may or may not be a selling point depending on the customer. That said, there’s little doubt that diamond is a fascinating material quite aside from its sparkling attributes, and makes a fascinating addition when joined to a no-holds-barred design such as this. While jarring, the seemingly random setting patterns of the 48 diamonds into the blackened aluminum case of 44mm diameter creates a fascinating total effect that really makes one contemplate the union of artistic creativity and science on a different level. It’s very cool, and decidedly unlike anything else out there! And indeed, the TAG Heuer Plasma Nanograph is the premiere debut of laboratory made diamonds in watchmaking.

(after being grown from their “seed” within a flux, each diamond is exactly shaped by a laser)

Impressively, the theme of high tech carbon doesn’t stop at the case level, but continues on through the dial, and into the complicated movement. The dial, far from simply being textured or paved with diamonds, is actually in pure nanocrystalline diamond—also lab produced, naturally–which is then carefully affixed to an underlying brass layer. Visible through the caseback, the self-winding Heuer 02 Nanograph mechanism also holds carbon-based secrets of its own. The tourbillon cage, which completes a revolution every 60 seconds, as well as the hairspring its balance wheel holds is made of featherweight carbon composite, materials which are as notable for their amagnetic capabilities as they are an exceptionally low mass. Those attributes are not just a talking point, but a real boon to the performance, both in terms of reducing the parasitic energy loss the tourbillon extracts from the movement as it operates (thanks to less weight to push around) and essential invulnerability to magnetic fields via a material that isn’t fazed in the slightest by them. Seen from the dial side, this space-age looking tourbillon cage combines with the two-counter, column-wheel controlled chronograph complication to present a facade that is highly technical and redolent of engineering virtuosity. It also looks quite fantastic and aggressive against the wild looks of the case. Topping it all off, quite literally, is a regal 2.5 carat diamond crown created in the labs of Capsoul, a firm with significant expertise in the field of creating synthetic diamond.

(Decorated with a checkered flag motif, the Heuer 02 shows its chronograph mechanism, complete with column wheel switching)

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Plasma is a bold and unique super watch, that should herald some interesting moves from the brand–and likely its competitors–as time moves forward. While I don’t adore the Plasma’s aesthetic signatures, I certainly don’t hate them either, as it really looks like no other watch in existence, leaving my compass with no real signpost for reference. It certainly is a memorable, charismatic showpiece of materials and technology with a bold character, as well as a watch with a lot of thought and effort put into its creation. (As you might hope, given the nearly $375,000 price tag) It seems a instance in which bling serves a vastly more interesting purpose than mere status, and hence certainly isn’t for the average devotee of flashy timepieces. TAG Heuer has pushed boundaries in a bold way with the Plasma, and in a world of far too many “me too” homages and attractive but sometimes passe vintage re-issues, there’s a lot to be said for that.

(Not a Kryptonite Cocktail, this is the mysterious plasma from which the synthetic diamonds are spawned)

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: A Mechanical Wonder In Deceptively Simplistic Form

Posted on by Adam Keith

There are many wondrous mechanical watches, from stately tourbillons, maddeningly complex chain-and-fusees, dulcet-toned minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and intricate split-second chronographs being just a few of the hallowed. We admire them because they encapsulate centuries of tradition as well as undeniable mastery of truly skilled watchmakers dedicated to constructing painstaking and delicate mechanisms. Even if those of us who aren’t engineers or horological surgeons really understand them fully, we sort of get what they do with gentle and patient explanation (and maybe a few detailed illustrations or animations), and how they do it, at least in the most layman sense. Yet, there are certain mechanical debuts that simply challenge our perception of the very basics of a watch and how it operates, like the first Ulysse Nardin “Freak” at the start of the new milennium, (which incidentally just underwent an insane revision of its own, well worthy of another blog in the near future), or the various “Horological Machines” from MB&F. But today, I’m discussing the fabulous Cartier Masse Mysterieuse–the “Mystery (Winding) Mass”–a watch which has taken the better part of eight years to bring from initial concept to fruition, such were the challenges posed in its creation. Automatic mechanical watches are as common as blades of grass, but how about one who’s self-winding mechanism also contains the very movement it feeds power to? Here we have a timepiece which really comes off as less a piece of mechanical engineering, than an object of some strange mechanical-magic conjuring, all while wrapped within the apparent–yet highly deceptive–veil of elegant simplicity. How did Cartier do it?

The answer to this 4 Hertz ticking riddle, in part, can be found in a system of four all-but invisible fine toothed sapphire discs–their edge hidden beneath the Roman hour track at the dial edge–each supporting the moving parts such as the hands, the rotor contained movement and the wheel which bears them. Two additional sapphire crystals cover the dial and back, respectively, in standard fashion. However, within Cartier’s deceptively simple three-handed mechanism, is an ingenious differential gearing which permits the hands to be driven with independence, and without any interference, from the apparently suspended and free-floating mechanism! While the Mystery mechanism has been a delight and bafflement for Cartier buyers and admirers since the brand’s clocks of the same moniker first debuted in early 20th century, the Masse Mysterieuse takes things to another level, and unifies the brand’s mastery in both that specialized metier, and the more broadly seen, yet no less tricky, horological art of the skeletonized, or openworked, movement.

(Note the beautifully beveled, open-worked rotor which shows off the entire watch mechanism, including the escapement and going train)

Add everything together, and the result is astonishingly striking and beautifully whimsical, a near-fantasy expression of Cartier’s typical penchant for Parisian high style, and impeccable Swiss high craftsmanship. It should also be noted that the watch is yet another brilliant technical coup for Carole Forestier-Kasapi, a veritable Wonder Woman in the realm of high watchmaking, and a creator and deep contributor to more than a few headscratchingly innovative complicated watches over the years, including the famous Ulysse Nardin Freak mentioned above. While she’s now creating Tomorrow’s marvels for TAG-Heuer, her more than decade long tenure at Cartier certainly ends on the most triumphal of notes with this reference!

(Yes, you’ll see your hand through the watch, but I’m certain that’s an aesthetic price well worth paying for this very special Cartier!)

The Cartier Masse Mysterieuse is a unique statement, one which is delicate and refined on the one hand, yet bold and attention getting with its 43.5mm diameter platinum case. Some might not be enthused that you can see your hand (hair and all, as the case may be for some) through the sapphire construction, but that’s the nature of this very special mechanical beauty. Price is set at just over $275,000 in its basic form with hand-sewn alligator strap seen here, limited to 30 pieces. But Cartier will also offer spectacular baguette diamond-set variants (topping out at over $1M for the version with full set platinum bracelet) that also flex Cartier’s might as a jeweler with few peers, and no masters. For the ten individuals able to score one of those, or the thirty who’ll grab the sans joaillerie version for that matter, I doubt the price of entry is more than a financial formality. For the rest of us, Watches and Wonders 2022 was a fantastic opportunity to appreciate what the house of Cartier can do when all constraint is removed, and creativity takes glorious wing.

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0: A Quartz-Powered Trip Back To The Future

Posted on by Adam Keith
(The life of a hand model has gotta be rougher than their skin, but the GP Casquette 2.0 is a nice prop against the meticulously manicured digits)

The world is a strange place, and the stubborn affection we watch lovers have for basically anything other than our omnipresent and omniscient (but not necessarily always benevolently so) smart phones and smart watches to give us the most fundamental of information, is possibly irrefutable proof that the heart is an organ notably more compelling than the brain. Of course, there’s a lot more to our adoration of high-craft mechanical watches than keeping us on schedule! Chief among those would include a connection with human achievement, an appreciation for artistry and craft, and our longing for mythically simpler or more hopeful times–a time-traveling machine of sorts, rather than a machine for time keeping, if you will. There’s more than a bit of irony, to me at least, that enough water has passed under the bridge that even digital quartz watches, the very antithesis of classical mechanical watches when they emerged, and a force that nearly killed the latter off entirely before the “Mechanical Revolution” of the late 1980s and early 1990s, have entered our space as objects of renewed affection and appreciation–perhaps a silent recognition of a time in history when newly emerging technology still felt exciting and universe opening, rather than domineering and all-consuming. And with that, enter Girard-Perregaux’s new wrist-born time machine, the Casquette 2.0!

(The whimsical packaging is just part of the pleasure inherent in GP’s Casquette 2.0)

Girard-Perregaux, a somewhat dusty but nonetheless venerable name amongst classical Swiss watchmaking houses, is best known for its magnificent Tourbillon With Three Bridges Of Gold and the many iterations of it that have appeared over the years. The company has also produced many other fine complicated pieces, some interesting dive watches, and a plethora of beautiful, simple dress watches, normally featuring calibers the brand has manufactured and refined in-house. This point is something GP is appreciated for among the cognoscenti because they followed that practice long before the now-vaunted manufacture caliber was an expectation for a “serious” Maison. But less known is that Girard-Perregaux was also an early player in quartz timepieces, keeping in mind that in the late 1960s and 1970s, it appeared that this ultra-precise, battery powered technology was The Way; Swiss companies from humble to mighty were all scrambling to get on board, and remain in the business of selling watches to a public suddenly demanding something very different than old fashioned wheels and pinions. Girard-Perregaux was an early contributor to that mighty leap into timekeeping precision, and by the introduction of their first quartz caliber in 1970, even established the 32.768 Hertz vibration frequency that would become the industry standard for the quartz oscillator to the present day. But, beyond all of that disruption, the 1970s was also an era of extremely bold fashion, obviously, and analog quartz watches eventually saw an exciting new sibling for the hyper-accurate quartz movement technology: the wildly futuristic LED digital display! First seen in the almost absurdly expensive 1972 Hamilton/Pulsar P1, I can only imagine how Space Age the digital readout would have seemed to viewers then, probably provoking reactions not unlike those to the at-the-time cutting edge special effects of 1977’s Star Wars, which debuted just one year after the original Casquette.

(Sleek, stylish, and a little foreboding, the Casquette 2.0 is a striking fashion statement as well as a digital luxury watch par excellence)

Only 8,200 original Casquette watches were produced by Girard-Perregaux, and they have become quite collectible, particularly in the rarest all-black synthetic variant in polycarbonate. Obviously, this variant, rather than the shell gold or steel variants which also saw production, is the one the brand has paid homage to, and it seems very fitting giving the sleek design, striking angles, and futuristic space-travel sort of vibe the watch evokes. The materials have been updated in an intelligent yet coherent manner, with the case and bracelet being from black ceramic for absolute scratch resistant permanence, and the caseback section, pushers, and a little Girard-Perregaux “GP” logo of Grade 5 titanium for just a bit of scintillating contrast against that visual vacuum of sheer blackness. The bracelet, which appears highly articulated, should be very comfortable, even more so due to a rubber lining on the interior and a fairly basic but sleek single-deployant clasp in titanium. Beyond the feathery lightness of ceramic and titanium, the dimensions are reasonable too, at just 42.40mm from lug-to-lug, and 33.60mm across. The Casquette 2.0 is stylish, and visually provocative while being simultaneously stealthy as a ninja’s garb, and one hell of a conversation piece if you desire it to be so. It goes without saying, that while they are mighty against scratches and wear, watches of ceramic construction don’t handle sharp impacts well….so, please don’t drop your Casquette 2.0! What’s more, there are only 820 of them slated for production, although they won’t be individually numbered. Price, at $4,700 is either reasonable, or heinous, depending upon what your views on quartz digital technology are, and, what premium you place on history, attention to design details, and quality of materials. While I’m not a quartz guy in general, I can appreciate that the quartz oscillator was immensely important, still has its place in the world of watches, and quartz watches from their inception to the present do in fact occupy a broad spectrum of quality, capability, and importance, just as mechanical ones do. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 is decidedly special, and it’s fair to recognize it is a true luxury object. Moreover, it is one created with care, and respect for a very dynamic time in horology.

(It may not look like much, uncased, but this tubular LED display is where you’ll interact with your Casquette 2.0. Lots of retro-futuristic fun!)

Being that this Girard-Perregaux has a very function-oriented quartz caliber, we needn’t dally long on the decorative nuances…there aren’t any to note. But, what the battery-powered GP3980 lacks in angled bridges, an exotic mechanical escapement, black polished screws, and ultra-thin construction, it makes up for in the delight of its stark red indications, of which the owner will get a few to play with: The time (adjustable between 12-hour and 24-hour formats), a second time zone, the day/date/month/year, a chronograph, and somewhat whimsically…a secret, programmable date to remind you of a big anniversary of importance limited to only your own imagination, or priorities. Depending on how crucial that date may be, the Casquette 2.0 can even be set up to remind you on a daily basis! Interestingly, the displays are normally in a powered-down mode, so to see or toggle through the modes, you simply need to press the polished titanium pusher, and the watch will spring to life. While some may find the power-down feature annoying, I think it’s a good one, as it preserves battery life for the longest possible interval (GP says approximately two years) when you’re rotating through other watches in the collection, while also giving you more occasion to interact with the piece when you do choose to sport it. Besides, even without the red LED grabbing our eyeballs, the murdered out, high-fashion 1970s futurism aspect of the Casquette 2.0 surely always will.

(Even without the ominous red LED display, the Casquette is a lethal looker, and a scintillating object to be appreciated)

Zenith Defy Skyline: High Frequency Watchmaking That Channels The 1970s

Posted on by Adam Keith

Manufacture Zenith = El Primero = Hi-Beat Chronograph. Right? Well, yes, but not necessarily always. “Say…what?” Ok, bear with me here. On the one hand, Zenith is rightly celebrated for being an innovative chronograph manufacture, with one of the most historically significant high frequency chrono caliber families to date, and one which provided a base for Rolex’s selfwinding Daytona Cosmograph before Big Green brought out their mighty manufacture 4130. It’s what Zenith is known for to watch aficionados, and rightly so. At the same time, Zenith does, and historically speaking long did, make simpler watches. As of this year, examples of those non-chronograph watches now bring to bear the same rapidly pulsating mechanical wizardry of their more complex brethren, which brings us to the new Defy Skyline here. Sure to raise eyebrows and provoke discussion, Zenith has seen fit to introduce styling and finishes that will provide possibly tempting–and importantly, actually obtainable–alternatives to 1970s legends like the impossible to get Patek Philippe Nautilus, the nearly-impossible to get Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the getting-close-to-impossible Vacheron Constantin Overseas. What’s more, the dials in these Zenith watches have a visceral mechanical life that the more expensive competition can’t quite match for drama, thanks to….yes, a rapidly thundering 1/10th second subsidiary second display!

Comparisons between those aforementioned Big Boys are inevitable, but is that really such a bad thing? Gerald Genta certainly created designs of gargantuan lasting power in the 1970s, and after outgrowing a very short period of acceptance, the iconic “portholes with integrated bracelets” he wrought for the Holy Trinity of Watchmaking have gone on to become not just the pinnacle of 1970s luxury sports watch design, but the very archetype for luxury…period. While not a Genta design, the well known (and now quite collectible) Rolex Oysterquartz family borrowed heavily from the same design language, and few criticized Rolex for flattering Genta with such sincere imitation. Besides, Zenith’s original Defy models, first seen on the market in the late 1960s–and offered again as a tribute model of its own–indeed preceded the Royal Oak and Nautilus to market, their angular bezels perhaps even inspiring Genta in some way to create his famous designs in the short years to come. As the pictures show, the Defy Skyline has that familiar 70s magic, from the angular bezel, the complex yet sturdy bracelet with alluring facets and sumptuous brushing, and dials that captivate as much with rich texture as vibrant and bold color. It’s a winning formula, and Zenith has reached into their storied past with respect, yet modernized their original Defy concept for contemporary expectations of luxurious appointment.

The stainless steel case is 41mm across, a span well in keeping with modern tastes, yet it deftly avoids the excess measurements that might doom it to the fate of becoming an eventual garish fashion statement. A reasonable twelve millimeters tall from sapphire back to sapphire crystal, this is also a watch that will fulfill a wide spectrum of sartorial demands, while being a stylish player with any of them. The contrasting brushed and polished finishes are absolutely eye-catching, as are the distinctive dials complete with a subtle yet alluring star-patterning which echoes the famous Zenith brand symbol gleaming below the baton twelve o’clock hour marker. That index, like its companions around the dial edge, is finely polished and strikes a pleasing dialogue with the faceted baton hands, all showing plenty of Superluminova for a satisfying glow when light gets scarce. An absolutely fantastic user capability of the Zenith Defy is a quick-change strap system at the lugs that allows nearly effortless swaps between the tapered integral bracelet with a butterfly-type deployant clasp, and alternative straps. Let it be said that you don’t need to order extras either, unless you wish to: Zenith supplies an attractively matched rubber strap with each Defy timepiece, blue for the blue dial, black for the black version, and a nice khaki toned one for the dressiest silver variant. This is definitely going to be an instance of some watch-buying indecision, as each of the dials have plenty of charm and panache. I’m personally torn between the blue and black for this multi-faceted Defy timepiece, but I certainly wouldn’t kick the silver out of bed. Between the bracelet and straps, any of the Defy Skyline models are supremely versatile companions, and with a healthy 100m water resistance rating, they can accompany you pretty much anywhere, no matter the season.

(As with newer sports watches from AP and Vacheron Constantin, a quick strap change system means effortless swaps between bracelet and strap)

Aesthetics aside, the Defy Skyline has quite the eyebrow-raising automatic movement, especially for a simple three handed watch with date. Naturally manufactured by Zenith (as if there were any other way!), the caliber 3620 serves up a robust 60 hours of power reserve, an impressive feat considering the energy hunger that surely drives the rapidly pulsing balance wheel rocking two and fro 36,000 times each hour. Strange to see this oscillator outside of a chronograph application, it directly powers the small but mighty subsidiary seconds hand that moves in ten blistering steps on the dial each second, and gives a uniquely animated feel to what otherwise would be a fairly sedate, no-fuss sports watch. Decorative nuances are fairly spare–this is a high quality but industrially finished caliber–but it makes a pleasant impression, and if you like star themes (the rotor is a big one, to cue the brand’s marquee) and some heat-treated blue screws, you’ll enjoy what you see through the exhibition back. But ultimately, the main thing is Zenith’s unwavering commitment to a high performance fast beat movement, and the materials and lubricants needed to support the reliable operation of it for years to come. Even better, you get to see the fruits of that high frequency innovation every day as you look at the time, somehow calm and subtly frenetic all at the same time. The fact that said 1/10th second bravura comes without a chronograph complication makes it an enticingly odd standout amongst its peers, and the WIS in me rejoices at that. At $8,400, the Zenith Defy Skyline is not exactly cheap, but with heritage, striking finishing, and a movement that offers something fresh, this series is worth a serious look for a daily wear with flair for the exotic–as well as ties to a brand with deep history in the annals of Swiss mechanical watchmaking.

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Is A Stunner In New Titanium And Blue Guise

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A Patek 5070P it isn’t, but no apologies are needed. Like that legend, this is a gorgeous two-counter blue chronograph!)

Say what you will about Blancpain, but the small manufacture from the idyllic little farmhouse in Le Brassus can certainly put the color blue to fabulous work. As with the previously discussed Bathyscaphe for Bucherer, this Air Command chronograph injects resplendent, beautiful blue into what is otherwise an already very appealing chronograph both inside and out. The result is a superb high horology wristwatch with interesting mechanical capabilities and a charming vintage-inspired design enhanced by razor sharp color and contrasting textures. One could even argue, somewhat convincingly, that this Blancpain watch represents pretty solid watchmaking value for its luxury asking price in our odd times of hyper-priced luxury. But more about that shortly. Let’s discuss the glamorous, newly attired Air Command Flyback in more detail, and see what makes it a standout.

(The coveted 2019 edition of the Air Command, next to its far rarer 1950s predecessor)

Fans of Blancpain and chronographs in general will find the piece immediately familiar in form and layout. It shares the same fundamentals in size, flyback chronograph functionality, and movement form the 500-piece limited edition Air Command Flyback Ref. AC01 1130 63A, which saw introduction in 2019 and quickly sold out…now of course available on the secondary market from time to time, at well above its retail price. That watch, as an aside, represented a quite faithful reproduction of an exceedingly rare semi-prototype Blancpain pilot’s chronograph from the 1950s, but it brought to the table an impressively modern self-winding caliber produced by the Manufacture Blancpain and complete with such niceties as column wheel switching, a vertical clutch for stutter-free operation of the start stop and return sequences, and a freely sprung balance wheel in silicon. Being a flyback chronograph gave this rendition of a pilot’s watch extra gravitas and meant that, just as in days of old when such things were in fact instruments of genuine necessity, our hypothetical pilot could trigger the crisply actuated chronograph repeatedly without a stop in between, keeping measurements in moments of airborne daredevilry just a little bit easier.

(Restrained but sublime haute de gamme finishing, and uncompromising technical details throughout define the F388B movement)

The titanium blue beauty here does all the same, and is animated by the same F388B mechanism, although the massive central rotor in 18K gold is a little more spare compared to the charmingly thematic plane propeller version inside the coveted steel sibling. Rather than stainless steel, the case of this Air Command is manufactured from an extremely unusual and very high grade of titanium, which the brand has also seen fit to promote in its revised Fifty Fathoms collection. Reserved for very specific applications–surgical/dental implantation, and certain aircraft components being two of the notables–Grade 23 titanium is costlier than, and superior to, other titanium alloys in many respects, to include corrosion resistance, ductile strength and durability. It has a lovely color, and although very difficult to work due to its extremely hard properties, takes a beautiful and lasting polish. That polish is something that Blancpain has lavished with tasteful care here and there, just enough to bring out a bit of glamour, without overpowering the ethos of the fundamental pilot’s tool. The clean and elegant case frames a dial which should satisfy the cravings of the most hopeless addicts of blue dialed watches! Displaying a radial sunburst pattern, this dial will be an absolute stunner in the sun, as well as offering a lot of polychromatic depth in indoor settings. This handsome effect is contrasted well by clear and functional luminous Arabic numbers that forego any faux-aged sort of syndrome, as do the polished white gold hands. This is a spectacular canvas for the time display, yet immediately legible at any time, and beautifully presented in the classic two-counter (or bicompax, if you prefer) manner. Blancpain’s decision to keep dial text minimal is to be applauded, too, as is the choice of a sapphire capped luminous bezel that is deliciously thin and unobtrusive, yet a delight to the eye in both color and luster, to say nothing of being a lovely treat when the lights run low. True to a pilot’s watch functionality, said bezel rotates in both directions, giving you yet another timer on top of your chronograph to play with.

(The pump pushers…the cambered box profile sapphire glass..the contrasting finishes. Subtle details abound!)

The movement checks a lot of important boxes for me. First, it is an exclusive mechanism, recognizing that the Manufacture Blancpain and Frederic Piguet have been intimately cojoined for a long time now. It is beautifully finished as all modern Blancpain calibers are, with particular mention to the absolutely sumptuous anglage on the edge of every bridge, as well as the rather technical looking yet still very cool grey finished 18K gold rotor. As on the bridges of movements seen in the Fifty Fathoms line, a lack of typical Geneva stripes in favor of a grained texture is clever, and eschews the typical expectations for a “high luxury” movement, while giving up nothing in terms of visual appeal–especially in a watch with such sporting aspirations. Vertically rather than horizontally clutched for efficiency, this chronograph nonetheless has a classic column wheel to satisfy purists who demand only best in construction and resultant crisp pusher feel, and the balance wheel is both freely sprung and mounted on a bridge; these features combined with the fine adjustment Blancpain performs–a full six positions rather than a typical luxury watch standard of five–and you have a very high performance, yet sturdy and resilient, complicated movement. Adding to this menu of excellence is an uber-rapid balance frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, meaning that not only is the chronograph central hand possessed of scarcely bested smoothness of sweep, it provides the capability of timing precision to the nearest 1/10th of a second. With all of these points considered together, its clear you have a truly wonderful automatic chronograph movement ticking inside, carrying the high-beat allure of famous competition such as Zenith and Grand Seiko, with the superior finishing of amongst the best of the manufacture level, to include lofty competition like Audemars Piguet and even Patek Philippe, at least as far as more typical volume watches (such as the annual calendar chronographs) from that esteemed brand go. Fear not those precision-destroying magnetic fields either, as the Air Command benefits from the same amagnetic silicon hairspring technology as other esteemed Swatch Group siblings such as Omega and Breguet. Yes, the F388B is a chronograph movement which is beautiful and luxurious, yet high on real world practicality and chronometric excellence. Maybe you can have it all, after all?

(You can obtain the Air Command Flyback in red gold too, which looks stunning paired with blue!)

Topped off by a supple blue calfskin strap that spices it up with bold white stitching, Blancpain’s Air Command Flyback Chronograph in titanium is a companion redolent of class and charm, while offering some serious muscle behind the sapphire caseback. This is a world class high luxury chronograph without any doubt, and at around $18,500 (US) dollars, the price asked seems more than reasonable when compared against some of the aforementioned big competition. Yes, the retail price is well above an El Primero from Zenith, mind you, but then again, so is the finishing, and that’s a big part of the pricing where high horology is concerned. (Being a Blancpain, it’s also likely that “the number” probably isn’t the number, especially if you ask the lovely folks at the boutique nicely.) And, should you want an even more opulent presentation for this watch’s radiant blue two-counter chronograph dial, Blancpain has you covered there: a red gold variant is available which is gorgeous indeed, as colored golds and blue go together about as well as any two things ever. With the exception of a red gold rotor to match the case, and a price tag some $10,000 greater, it’s the same great timepiece.

Patek Philippe 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo: A Dominant Bell Toll In The World Of The Minute Repeater Complication

Posted on by Adam Keith
(A intricate, unusual dial and bright orange strap hint that this minute repeater watch is far, far more than meets the ear!)

Among that elite circle of manufacturers known to produce the devilishly complex minute repeater complication, none are more widely celebrated than Patek Philippe.  Not just because of Patek Philippe’s long expertise in producing these exquisite and highly intricate chiming watches, but their fanatical attention to the sound quality produced by the chimes–itself a difficult acoustic mark to hit, and one affected by many factors, including the length and thickness of the gong springs, the way in which the hammers are adjusted to hit them, and the resonance properties of the case material and its constructive quirks.  Patek has spent many decades mastering this exquisite complication, and one could say they’ve made it a bit of a pleasantly fanatical pursuit to produce the best in class. Indeed, as is well known to many horological devotees, each and every Patek Philippe watch with minute repeater complication is presented to the company head (Thierry Stern, and before him, his father Philippe) who passes the final judgment on whether the product is ready for a discerning owner, or must go back to the master watchmaker’s bench for further minuscule adjustments.
 

(The slide-piece which starts the music is classically placed on the left side of the platinum case, ready to bring the chimes to life)

A quick visit to YouTube to listen to any number of Patek Philippe minute repeater watches of both old and more recent production quickly reveals just how good the brand is at “getting it right”–yet, despite this well-honed mastery, Patek Philippe continues to strive forward and take these aural pieces of horological delight to new levels. The watch we have here, just announced, is the Reference 5750P Fortissimo, and it promises to enrich the traditional minute repeater with innovative technology that will let the chimes of time sing with unparalleled beauty and sonority.  Even more fascinating, the clever acoustical solutions Patek Philippe has come up with negate the advantages (or disadvantages) of various case materials, once a surprisingly important factor in how bold–or muted–a minute repeater might sound to the human ear. That’s one reason that Patek Philippe has chosen to case this groundbreaking minute repeater watch in platinum–a material known to be particularly difficult from an acoustical standpoint.

(The forest of hand finished racks, cams, and other levers under the dial, all meticulously adjusted, control the strike sequence)

What do I mean? Well, denser materials such as platinum tend to absorb more sound than 18K gold, which in turn doesn’t amplify as well as somewhat less noble materials such as steel or titanium, all factors being equal.  Much like an Antonio Stradivari or Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu choosing the finest tone wood for the construction of a fine violin or cello, the materials chosen play a role in the ultimate effect of the completed instrument. Of course, additional gongs, larger gongs, or innovative case design can all play a role too, and Patek Philippe has gone all out to maximize all the factors in making the ultimate example of a chiming watch. Going back to our luthier example, for those who can appreciate the comparison, that might be the equivalent of the arching of the violin when the top and back are being created–those architectural choices, one way or the other, can impact the sonority of the completed, and strung-up violin, as well its ability to deliver a world class concert sound for years, even centuries, into the future.

At first glance, the base R27 movement appears familiar from other Patek Philippe minute repeating wristwatches such as the Ref. 5074 or 5078. But immediate differences from R27s seen in those watches are also readily observable, such as a new rotor in platinum, thinner than the previous 22K gold component yet equally efficient thanks to platinum’s greater density. Most obviously unique to this caliber, however, is the curious forked apparatus traveling from the case edge and gongs, through the jewel settings of the black-polished repeater hammers and terminating in a circular component. This part, a key aspect of the acoustical amplification of this movement is the highly sensitive sound lever, a direct conduit from the vibrating gongs to an nearly invisible sapphire crystal oscillating wafer with a razor thin thickness of just 0.2 millimeter. This sapphire component, part of the several patented elements in this Advanced Research caliber, is attached to–and works with the transmitting sound lever, and a special titanium ring with several cutouts hidden from view–to boost the sound transmission multiple fold over what a standard minute repeater might be capable. The slightly added height this arrangement gave to the R27PS caliber also helps explain the choice for the thinner platinum microrotor I mentioned earlier–every millimeter of added movement height counts in high horology, and Patek Philippe was not about to make the Advanced Research Fortissimo anything less than an elegant, relatively slender wristwatch.

How much additional sonority does the Fortissimo Module in the Ref. 5750 deliver? Well, Patek Philippe claims a six-fold increase: that is, the dulcet tones of this one can be heard clearly sixty meters away, compared to approximately ten from anything else they’ve produced. That seems impressive indeed, in fact, maybe even slightly more potent than optimal, given the blue-blooded discretion that you’d suspect a typical minute repeater client might normally crave. That said, have no fear–Thierry Stern and his team at Patek have made two other modifications which soothe the near-operatic vocal cords of the Ref. 5750 to a volume befitting the utmost in patrician sensibility. First, Patek Philippe opted for an unusual selection of platinum for the repeater hammers over the standard polished steel, for reasons that the weight and density of the former yield an ultimately softer peal when hitting the gongs. Secondly, and notably, the tempo of a time-strike sequence has been extended for a several second period compared to that of previous Patek Philippe minute repeaters, to allow for a bit more sonic expansion both between hammer strikes, and at the conclusion of the sequence. Of course, at no time will these many refined technical tricks be more enjoyable than at the magical minute repeater “Witching Hour” of 12:59, when the listener is greeted to the always reverential sequence of twelve individual low tones, three high-low combinations for the quarter hours, and an additional nineteen high tones for the remaining individual minutes of the hour.

Yes, the 5750 Advanced Research is a triumphal masterpiece, and represents the best of what Patek Philippe can offer. It’s easy to forget truly wondrous pieces like this amidst the never-ending chatter about the latest Nautilus variant, and the newest sanity-bending sales price for it at one auction venue or another. At 40mm in diameter, this platinum beauty–complete with the signature round brilliant set between the 6 o’clock case lugs as you’d expect–is a contemporary classic already fit to join the rarified company of other Patek minute repeaters produced in years prior. Yet, the Fortissimo has been given some unique details that give it a character unlike any of its siblings. Chalk that up to its saucy orange alligator strap and striking silvered dial with skeletonized lozenge motif; the same detail is echoed on the platinum microrotor’s decoration, and is intended to evoke the spokes of a classic roadster. The dial pattern sort of winks and hints at the engineering brilliance that’s embodied in this classic masterpiece, which is watchmaking artistry on the highest level, no matter how you slice it. The 5750P’s retail price is appropriately high at over half a million dollars, and honestly, watches like this are among the few that can actually justify such Olympian price tags. Only fifteen will be made, and I hope it is the truest of true blue Patek Philippe faithful who acquire these to enjoy and yes…wear. Not just for themselves mind you, but their very blessed descendants as well, just as the historic Genevan manufacturer would intend.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Green Guilloche: A High Tech Beauty That’s Changed My Mind About An Enthusiast Brand

Posted on by Adam Keith

Think of a top industry actress (or actor, if you prefer!) that is universally extolled for their talent, filmographic repertoire, and most notably for this discussion, beauty and sex appeal, around the globe…but that individual for whatever reason, doesn’t really resonate with you in that way. Oh sure, you unabashedly recognize that this person ticks all the boxes for what makes a human appealing, and you certainly wouldn’t kick them out of bed for eating crackers, but they just aren’t your type, even if you had half a snowball’s chance in the Devil’s dominion. But one day, you see them in a certain film, and be it their attire, their character, or how it all comes together, and it’s now a very different perception…all of a sudden, you get it. That’s a bit like how the very high end watch brand of De Bethune is for me, as a watch guy. I’ve intellectually admired them for a long time, recognized how so many other watch lovers could find them irresistible, but few models have really called out to me on any cohesive level, despite my acknowledgement of the horological ingenuity, finishing, and unique presence. And now…this DB25 Perpetual Calendar gets announced. And yes, now I “get it”. What a gorgeous and absolutely covetous watch!

(In 44mm polished titanium with unique De Bethune design cues, the DB 25 is unmistakable yet subtle)

The DeBethune here is not a classic perpetual calendar like the legendary Ref. 3448 Patek Philippe, a mid-century Audemars Piguet, or even a Lange Langematik Perpetual–its 44mm case breadth and unique De Bethune styling signatures such as the skeletonized lugs, are obvious assurances of that point. But, it delves deeply into the vocabulary of classic detailing that keeps it firmly in the camp of a watch that has ageless beauty. No more is that evident than in the mesmerizing green dial, which radiates the feeling of something special, without any garish overtone that some green dials can convey–the shade and finish of it is sublime, completely transcending the modern industry fetish for green-themed watches. And while the DB25 Perpetual is large, it can’t be denied that the ample real estate lets this dial stretch its very shapely legs. Classic roman numerals in contrasting silver at the hours and a railroad minute track with Arabic marks at the 5-minute intervals speak to watches known and loved for over a century, while the intricate guilloche center, set distinct from the outer chapter shows off the illusory sense of bending light and three dimensional texture, a sensation enhanced by the absolutely ravishing polished leaf hands, with tips gracefully curving towards the dial. Calendar days and months at the center of the dial, at 9 and 3 respectively lend a sense of calm and balance, setting the stage for a famous DeBethune specialty: the rotating, hemispherical moonphase, comprised of joined sections of oxidized steel and palladium to artfully replicate the lighter and darker sides of our heavenly satellite, all against a poetic background of a blackened gold sky shining with inlaid rose gold stars. The fact that De Bethune has discreetly included a leap year indicator just below the moon phase, all while keeping the poetic night sky effect unperturbed, is most pleasing. The polished titanium case with its thin bezel and unique architecture contribute to this DB25’s sense of unstressed complexity, serenity, and utterly wearable nature.

(Innovation and exclusivity: De Bethune movements are full of patented horological goodies)

Even before my “enlightenment”, I always admired the effort De Bethune put forth in creating high-end manufacture movements chock full of innovative mechanisms that distinguished them amongst the high horology crowd. The DB2324, comprising 425 parts and 47 jewels, is no exception to that track record, and decorated in striking manner that is both refined yet somehow architecturally fascinating and futuristic. To my eyes, it comes off more like a miniature exotic car engine, or something similar, than just another pretty movement. Elements that reinforce that sort of impression include the rotor with its blued titanium arms screwed to the white gold outer mass with an almost excessive–if excitingly so!–four screws on each arm, and a similarly shaped balance bridge of the same material, its securing point thrusting sharply upward from the outer legs, and connecting to an additional supporting structure to carry off the distinctive “Triple Parachute” shock absorber system for the freely sprung balance wheel. That balance wheel, manufactured from a combination of titanium and platinum, is itself another example of De Bethune innovation, offering up distinctive regulation weights for fine adjustment, and a patented hairspring with a flat terminal curve. The 5-day power reserve is another notable technical feature of the caliber, and should ensure preservation of the most certainly excellent precision–as well as a giving a nice chance to rotate this beauty out for others in your collection, when you can bear to take it off, that is! While on the topic of precision, once its set, the DB2324’s moonphase display also won’t deviate from astronomic reality by a single day for 122 years, rather a moot point for the average human, but again, we see another example of the thoughtful perfectionism that De Bethune strives for.

(A green textile strap is provided as an additional alternative, and looks casually smashing with that dial!)

To me, De Bethune has created a fine example of their unique watchmaking aesthetic in this green DB25 variant, one that calls to mind all the romantic things beloved in classical horology but framed in a refreshing and very forward-looking way, with cutting edge mechanical tech to match. This is a watch that is beautiful and intricate, but without any excessive formality to relegate it to more occasional use. Dressed down (or up), this is a masterful creation that begs to be worn daily, with the rarefied details to delight its owner at every glance. I’ll confess that it also makes me want to dig back into the De Bethune catalog and explore their impressive watchmaking adventures more. Clearly, I’ve been missing out!

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One: High Luxury Sports Watch At Another Level Of Excellence

Posted on by Adam Keith

Some people really do have everything, and are looking for the next frontier of luxury experience. Others could have everything, (or pretty close to it) but choose to be more selective in their process, and want to surround themselves with exceptional objects so discreet and unusual that only a handful of cognoscenti would have any idea. For either of those categories of elite watch collectors, the brilliant and perfectionistic Romain Gauthier has just the piece for you: the Continuum Titanium Edition One. It is sure to be an appetizing antidote to the hegemony of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, nameless AP Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition, or even another hyper-priced, but perhaps equally overly hyped, Richard Mille.

(A component from a Romain Gauthier watch, showing the typical obsessive attention to finishing and detail practiced by the Manufacture)


For those who’ve been following the progression of Romain Gauthier since the early 2000s, it’s indeed difficult to not be impressed with the combination of exceptional artisanal finish and mechanical ingenuity embodied in the creations of this humble yet demanding independent–one who’s passion originated not from a watchmaker’s training, but a background in precision engineering. This, of course, ultimately led to Gauthier’s first ventures in creating high quality parts and technical solutions for other watchmakers. Yet, after doing that for a time, the man grew restless and sought to create a watch collection of his own, unifying the best of classical watchmaking with his own forward-thinking mechanical and aesthetic ethos. Those ambitions in haute horlogerie were nurtured and coached by none other than Philippe Dufour, who’s expertise the ambitious yet humble founder sought out from the early days, with results that have been clear to see across the growing, award-winning Romain Gauthier collection. And while it was tours de forces like the exquisite “Logical One” with its superbly crafted, ingenious jeweled chain-and-fusee mechanism that have increasingly made the name a magical one for collectors of the ultra-rare, sports watches weren’t something you might have expected to see.  With the introduction of the Continuum, limited to an achingly small edition of 28 pieces, that has all certainly changed. It is a watch far…far from inexpensive, and nor would you expect it to be given the maker, but the CHF 37,000 price accorded the Continuum is really quite reasonable indeed when you begin to wrap your heart and head around the Romain Gauthier watchmaking philosophy, the true labor of love involved in any watch emerging from the atelier, and the undeniable, hyper exclusivity factor.

The team at Romain Gauthier have created a case measuring 41mm wide by x 9.55 mm tall in hypoallergenic Grade 5 titanium. At a length of 49.5mm lug to lug, it is certainly a wrist filler, but given the striking presence and flawless execution, I doubt it will be an impediment to a real love affair with this watch! What grabs you immediately with the Continuum Titanium Edition One is the unity of a striking design with beautiful, and extremely intricate craftsmanship, from the brushed and polished alternating scallops on the bezel, to fascinating angular lugs that perfectly mate to the dark grey rubber strap. Even the strap carries on that feeling of extreme detail, from the texture of it, down to the richly crafted buckle in finely brushed and polished alternations. Everywhere you look, contrasting finishes and angles surfaces converge in sublime and delightful ways, drawing the viewer in to discover additional secrets about the watch that might not have been evident on the first, or even the tenth viewing. As with the best movies, books, or music, a truly great watch can be discovered–and rediscovered–many times over, and the Continuum certainly passes that litmus test with flying colors.

(The utmost attention to detail continues even to the strap and buckle textures)

The dial titillates the eye in a similar way, featuring an unusual yet compelling merger of drawn out and compact indexes, the always-charming “3-6-9” Arabic numeral principals that have defined more than a few famous sports watch dials over the decades, and an offset subsidiary seconds dial that is both restrained and a little bit crazy at the same time, thanks to the unusual red sunray pattern exploding out from it. Meticulous finishing contrasts abound here as with the case, the matte, grained Grade 5 titanium dial giving emphasis to the subtle faceting of the hour indexes, which–like the quite three-dimensional hands (sort of a neo-dauphine style, perhaps?)–are crafted from satin-finished white gold, and have ample luminous fill to keep things easily legible in darkness.

But it is through the exhibition back where the Continuum Titanium Edition One surely proves its ultimate mettle. The impression of this in-house produced and conceived, manually wound Romain Gauthier caliber is that of a strong and capable machine conceived with vibrant engineering passion, yet one beautifully designed and finished with the highest degree of care from the ground up–a melding of traditional watchmaking concepts with something modern, and perhaps even futuristic, you might say. Manually wound, the basics include a construction of 154 parts, 24 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and 60 hours of power reserve. The bridge shape and detail–an homage to the “finger bridge” style synonymous with classical Vallee de Joux movements–aren’t decoratively fussy in any way, yet show off extreme attention to finishing quality, and a distinctive three-dimensional aspect, much in the same manner as the watch’s hand set. A fascinating, hand-applied tremblage type finish graces the primary surfaces and matte, coolly-technical bevels with a distinct double-bordered step frame them in; they aren’t as immediately visually radiant as the bridge finishing seen on some of the more complex Romain Gauthier models, but I think the aesthetic perfectly suits the flavor and themes of the Continuum as a whole. It is subtle and technical, with a modest beauty that pulls you in…at which point you realize this is far beyond your average, entry-level Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe reference.

Examining the painstakingly finished wheels with their swooping, circular–and yes, beveled!–spokes reveals the same fanatical attention to minding the little things, and the construction of the caliber allows us to perceive many interesting technical and decorative aspects. Examples of the latter would include the black polished S-shaped screws securing the bridges (also a feature on the caseback of the watch, in a superb example of luxurious continuity), the distinctive conoid regulating weights on the freely sprung balance wheel, and an ingenious snail cam for precise stopping and restarting of the escapement. This beautifully polished little component comes in contact with the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out to affect setting, and creates optimal precision not just in halting the balance, but getting it robustly back into motion once the crown is pressed back in. Romain Gauthier also proudly makes note of their proprietary triangular pallet lever, a subtle but notable improvement to the typical more fork-like appendage seen in most Swiss lever implementations.

(Romain Gauthier’s triangular pallet lever advances classic Swiss lever escapement performance)

The triangular modification of this small yet critical escapement component is claimed to improve stability, efficiency, and shock resistance as well as give a slight boost to the balance amplitude, all while retaining the classic reliability and predictable performance of the proven Swiss Lever. Again, a nod to proven traditions of watchmaking, but rendered in a fresh, thoughtful, and cleverly engineered way! The Romain Gauthier way.

A founder with real passion for excellence, Romain Gauthier is at the vanguard of 21st century independent watchmaking

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365BR/15/9WU: An Exquisite Tribute To The Inventor Of The Whirlwind Escapement

Posted on by Adam Keith

There are a goodly number of tourbillon watches in existence, many of the notable ones being exquisite examples of watchmaking’s finest craftsmanship, with such legendary names signed to their bridges as Girard-Perregaux, Helwig and Pratt, among a few others. But there’s something about a Breguet tourbillon that seems so fitting, less for the classic beauty and aesthetic details inherent in a Breguet watch, and more for the simple fact that such watches bear the name of the man who envisioned the very principles of the complication in the first place. Such was the difficulty to produce and adjust this gravity-defying escapement, that during his lifetime, Abraham-Louis Breguet only produced 35 examples of watches with tourbillon, those rare pieces destined solely for the wealthiest of his clients, and the inventories of royal houses. While the advent of modern manufacturing techniques have made the fascinating complication significantly easier to produce, and their status somewhat deflated as a result, a truly high-end tourbillon execution is still a feat of exceptional watchmaking, and few can produce one like the modern house of Breguet–certainly not with a similar degree of panache and instantly recognizable provenance. With that distinguished history in mind, and an anniversary celebration of 220 years of the Tourbillon at hand, it’s fitting that Manufacture Breguet is offering this beautiful Classique model, in a numbered edition of….you guessed it, 35 pieces.

(Breguet’s patent application drawing from 1801, which is replicated in hand engraving on the movement’s bridges!)

First things I perceive: Ref 5365BR/15/9WU is a classic Breguet watch, through and through. The individually welded 18K gold lugs affixed with solid gold screwed bars, the stately fluted caseband, and most especially a stunningly intricate, silver-plated solid gold dial with multiple guilloche textures painstakingly created by a hand-guided rose engine all immediately distinguish it. Without question, a dress watch with something much, much more, yet discreetness and pure elegance to temper the virtuosity. Only a closer look reveals some interesting touches that set this apart as a special commemorative, and with a dial this gorgeous, believe me…you’ll want to spend some time with a loupe! While Breguet tourbillons from the collection typically sport a tourbillon bridge of black-polished steel, this one diverges slightly…showing off a fire-blued finish which is particularly sublime as it compliments the famously shaped, blued signature hands. Too, the outermost edge of the tourbillon aperture displays a “Brevet No 157”, a subtle detail that points to the specific patent which the pioneering French watchmaker received for the tourbillon escapement. Naturally the secret Breguet signature is in place astride the 12 o’clock roman numeral, which is as charming as ever alongside the numerous textured fineries that greet the eye, and of course, the audacious, slightly discordant, off-centered time display–a look which Breguet pioneered on his original 18th century pocket watches. The 41mm rose gold case is definitely a concession to modern tastes, but the proportional balance of this wristwatch remains superb, and there’s more reason for it when we consider the mechanically intricate, and intricately decorated caliber that greets the eye through the sapphire back.

Calibre 581 is expansive, filling the voluminous case in the way a movement purist can appreciate. It’s easy to mistake it for a manual winding caliber, but that’s not the situation. So, where is the rotor? Neither centrally mounted, nor a microrotor, the winding mass is on the edge of the caliber, a fairly uncommon way to implement the automatic mechanism, but the result is very visually pleasing and keeps the view unobstructed. To ensure that said winding mass also does a good job of winding the Calibre 581 when worn, it is wrought from massive, precious platinum for maximal inertia, and a hand engraved guilloche pattern keeps it a thing of beauty, as well. An on the topic of aesthetics, the caliber is an exemplar of classical watchmaking finishing techniques throughout, with the bridges featuring beautiful hand-polished anglage with a lusciously broad width to give that polish an extra bit of visual potency. Jewels are set in similarly polished sinks. The many screws are black polished, and a humble satin-grained texture graces the bridges, drawing the eye’s admiration to something extraordinary: a hand-engraved replication of Breguet’s drawings of the tourbillon for his patent application! It’s a detail that is both strikingly handsome and subtle, in the way that more special, commemorative pieces from other houses could take a lesson from. Other discreet commemorative details to enjoy include a mainspring barrel hand engraved with the 220th anniversary dates of the tourbillon’s patenting, and another across the tourbillon carriage bridge, this one illustrating the patent number, and the year of the patent, “7 Messidor An 9”. That latter calendar term, being equivalent to June 26, 1801, reflects the unusual parlance of the Republican calendar, ushered in after the French Revolution and coming to an end by Napoleonic decree in 1806. (And you thought this was just a watch blog! 😉 )

(A hand-executed engraving of the Breguet patent drawing is one of many aesthetic delights of Cal 581. Note the platinum oscillating weight, too.)

Returning again to the movement finishing itself, the presence of a a few tricky interior angles in places is another point that will delight perfectionists that increasingly find inspiration only in the artisanal work of the most fastidious independent masters such as Dufour or Rexhepi. Yet, despite all this charming 19th century watchmaking artistry, the one-minute tourbillon itself gets an up-to-the-minute hairspring and a LIGA-etched escape wheel in high-tech silicon. This is a very interesting thing about modern Breguet to me, as the brand respects both its heritage as one of the best in traditional high horology, and the pioneering spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet, who always pushed to find newer and better solutions, as well as fight the eternal watchmaker’s enemy: friction. Would the great Breguet himself have used silicon, had the technologies to manufacture watchmaking components from it existed then? Hard to say for sure, but I think we can surmise he would have been highly interested in their capabilities, and eager to experiment. In any event, tradition and modernism firmly clasp hands in this beautiful mechanism which ticks at a modern 28,800 vph frequency, offers superior six-position adjustment, and will run for 80 hours at maximum wind.

That Breguet has many compellingly beautiful watches in its catalog is an understatement, some far simpler, and some more complicated. But it is the tourbillon in its pure form, arguably more than any other complication or specialty of watchmaking which defines the ingenuity and elegance of the house and its storied, endlessly inventive namesake. In that vein, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365 captures the aesthetic signatures of Breguet in a very compelling way, offering a thoughtfully conceived commemorative effort that feels truly special without excess, or a sense of overdone commercial sensationalism. With a richly padded alligator leather strap and triple-deployant buckle in rose gold, this is a distinguished high complication that will certainly dress up, but it itself is always the occasion. Bearing that in mind, the lofty CHF 158,000 price seems…well, just a formality.