Voutilainen 28SC-SB Central Seconds Watch: Another Handcrafted Masterpiece

Any time that independent watchmaking master Kari Voutilainen debuts a timepiece, it is an event worth paying attention to. One of the world’s greatest living masters, his penchant for classic yet deeply individualistic design, to say nothing of technical and finishing perfection to the highest standards of the horological craft, have long defined his extremely exclusive output and made his works coveted to collectors in much the same manner as fellow AHCI independent and legend Philippe Dufour.

Voutilainen’s new 28SC-SB Central Seconds is first and foremost a technical tour de force, as would be expected. The sapphire exhibition back reveals a place of harmony, artisanal hand finishing typical of Voutilainen, and technical innovation. Perhaps most striking is the wonderfully large and visually dominant balance wheel which incorporates a virtuosic escapement: at the heart, a balance spring incorporating a Phillips overcoil on the exterior curve, and a much less commonly encountered Grossmann curve on the internal. Among the various attributes of this unconventional and meticulously rendered system are a significant reduction in friction compared to a typical Swiss lever escapement, through use of two escapement wheels which convey an efficient direct impulse to the balance. This aspect, in conjunction with Voutilainen’s exceptional attention to regulation, to say nothing of perfect finish of every component in the gear train, assures a very high degree of chronometric performance, all while keeping the traditional (and may I say, poetic and beautiful!) beat rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour like the pocket watches of old. In that same way, the bridges showcase a lovely frosted finish with perfect polish on the interior angles that contrast beautifully with the black polished screws, balance bridge and other steel components. Pinions and wheels showcase similar uncompromising standards of functional and decorative nuance, to ensure not just absolute beauty in aesthetics, but a watch movement that will endure countless decades and generations, all while keeping time brilliantly.

Kari’s lovely Vingt-8 movement gets an interesting case as well. Showcasing classical lines and elegantly shaped lugs, the Central Seconds case is crafted from an unusual variety of 316L. Dubbed AISI 4441, the properties are described as solar-forged and of 100% recycled (and re-recyclable) stock, of which this series of watch cases was apparently the very first use of. While the apparent environmental benefits are certainly appreciated, the beauty is undeniable, and keeps our fascination with steel cases for the finest pieces well and truly alive.

And the dial…what a dial! A feast of textures, colors, and materials, the base material is silver upon which multiple textures interplay. At the periphery, with applied cabochons outboard of the hour indexes is a grained finish. Interior to that, containing the faceted hour indices themselves is a barleycorn type guilloche in green, while the champagne center displays the waviest of guilloche with an almost three dimensional effect. The hands are as distinctive and striking as they are masterful in construction and finish: wrought from a combination of blued steel and 18K gold, they invoke classicism and strong character at the same time, and are another wonderful detail (amongst so many) to enjoy. I’ll add how much I love the winding crown, too: it is quite short and barely sticks out from the caseband, but the deep knurling and large size relative to the case creates an exciting point of architectural interest, and a sense of what is sure to be heightened anticipatory joy as the lucky owner prepares to wind this very special mechanism.

The sad part? Only 12 of these will be made…and one may be certain they’re all spoken for. Seeing work like this is always a pleasure though, and defines what “Grails” can be when we really aren’t fooling about with the term.