Tag: Kari Voutilainen

Voutilainen 28SC-SB Central Seconds Watch: Another Handcrafted Masterpiece

Any time that independent watchmaking master Kari Voutilainen debuts a timepiece, it is an event worth paying attention to. One of the world’s greatest living masters, his penchant for classic yet deeply individualistic design, to say nothing of technical and finishing perfection to the highest standards of the horological craft, have long defined his extremely exclusive output and made his works coveted to collectors in much the same manner as fellow AHCI independent and legend Philippe Dufour.

Voutilainen’s new 28SC-SB Central Seconds is first and foremost a technical tour de force, as would be expected. The sapphire exhibition back reveals a place of harmony, artisanal hand finishing typical of Voutilainen, and technical innovation. Perhaps most striking is the wonderfully large and visually dominant balance wheel which incorporates a virtuosic escapement: at the heart, a balance spring incorporating a Phillips overcoil on the exterior curve, and a much less commonly encountered Grossmann curve on the internal. Among the various attributes of this unconventional and meticulously rendered system are a significant reduction in friction compared to a typical Swiss lever escapement, through use of two escapement wheels which convey an efficient direct impulse to the balance. This aspect, in conjunction with Voutilainen’s exceptional attention to regulation, to say nothing of perfect finish of every component in the gear train, assures a very high degree of chronometric performance, all while keeping the traditional (and may I say, poetic and beautiful!) beat rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour like the pocket watches of old. In that same way, the bridges showcase a lovely frosted finish with perfect polish on the interior angles that contrast beautifully with the black polished screws, balance bridge and other steel components. Pinions and wheels showcase similar uncompromising standards of functional and decorative nuance, to ensure not just absolute beauty in aesthetics, but a watch movement that will endure countless decades and generations, all while keeping time brilliantly.

Kari’s lovely Vingt-8 movement gets an interesting case as well. Showcasing classical lines and elegantly shaped lugs, the Central Seconds case is crafted from an unusual variety of 316L. Dubbed AISI 4441, the properties are described as solar-forged and of 100% recycled (and re-recyclable) stock, of which this series of watch cases was apparently the very first use of. While the apparent environmental benefits are certainly appreciated, the beauty is undeniable, and keeps our fascination with steel cases for the finest pieces well and truly alive.

And the dial…what a dial! A feast of textures, colors, and materials, the base material is silver upon which multiple textures interplay. At the periphery, with applied cabochons outboard of the hour indexes is a grained finish. Interior to that, containing the faceted hour indices themselves is a barleycorn type guilloche in green, while the champagne center displays the waviest of guilloche with an almost three dimensional effect. The hands are as distinctive and striking as they are masterful in construction and finish: wrought from a combination of blued steel and 18K gold, they invoke classicism and strong character at the same time, and are another wonderful detail (amongst so many) to enjoy. I’ll add how much I love the winding crown, too: it is quite short and barely sticks out from the caseband, but the deep knurling and large size relative to the case creates an exciting point of architectural interest, and a sense of what is sure to be heightened anticipatory joy as the lucky owner prepares to wind this very special mechanism.

The sad part? Only 12 of these will be made…and one may be certain they’re all spoken for. Seeing work like this is always a pleasure though, and defines what “Grails” can be when we really aren’t fooling about with the term.

MB&F Legacy Machines 101: Pure Imagination in Watchmaking Art, Fantasy, and Classical Steampunk

It is a decidedly difficult task for the watch lover to not be enraptured by the many wondrous horological propositions of Maximilian Busser. One of the industry’s most consistently inventive, and mechanically enraptured frontmen, he’s stunned us over and over from the early days of the Harry Winston Opus series in the 1990s, then to his own ventures at MB&F with the wildly inventive Horological Machines and on to the fundamentally simpler, yet no less stunning Legacy Machines line of which we have further development here to ponder over. The Legacy Machines 101 are MB&F’s attempts to distill the pure aesthetics of functional watchmaking in a way that creates genuine visual intrigue and openness into the heart of horology, as seen through the lens of classical 19th century craftsmanship and technical solutions. Thrust high above the stepped and separated subdials for hours and minutes, as well as seconds, the balance wheel and escapement float high atop it all, like something from a Salvador Dali painting. The result is ethereal, yet technical and mesmerizing, a tribute to both science and fantasy. As always, the perfectionist ethos of MB&F’s friends, such as the legendary independent master Kari Voutilainen who was an early partner in these watches, ensure that every single component of the movement, is engineered and finished to a level near the pinnacle of the craft.

2021’s LM101 editions add further visual intrigue to this lovely line of watches with gorgeous shades of clear lacquer, in a royal blue for the red gold version, paler blue for the stainless steel option, and an iridescent purple for the white gold Legacy Machine 101. The scintillating nature of this dial is achieved by the manufacturer via a multi-layer, multi-step heating process in which these layers of translucent lacquer are gradually drawn out to cover the entire dial’s surface area. These are all so gorgeous to behold, I don’t know how one could choose, and can only say there is no answer which isn’t resoundingly right! “Let the beholder find their beauty.”

As always, bravo to Mr. Busser and his team, for ensuring we all just can stop a moment to appreciate the wonder of Swiss watchmaking at a fantasy level, both in terms of pure craftsmanship, and inventive artistry that transcends petty commercialism.