Tag: German watches

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition: A Versatile, Salmon Dial Beauty In Steel

(A stunning all-season beauty on the optional Senator bracelet, which features the brand’s excellent concealed micro-adjustment system)

Stately and classic, the Glashütte Original Senator collection has been popular within the brand’s varied lineup for some time, showing off everything from simple time-only watches, through chronographs, and even the very highest complications like the flying tourbillon, the latter a Glashütte town specialty dating back to founding father Alfred Helwig who defined its mechanical principles. The perpetual calendar is another lofty ticking delight seen in the Senator line, and this time, Glashutte Original is offering a particularly ravishing, individually numbered edition of 100 pieces in the ever-tempting combination of a salmon (or rose, if you prefer) dial and white metal. I suspect this one will find plenty of love from fans of fine German watchmaking, as its details are gorgeous while legibility remains high–something certainly not always the case with the complex perpetual calendar, and its multiplicity of indications. The watch projects an aura of refinement without fussiness, and adds a little pinch of sportiness in its attitude, for good measure. As such, this reference seems an ideal candidate for a daily-wear perpetual calendar wristwatch. Let’s get down into its details, and explore why it might be a compelling choice for you.

(The GO Caliber 36-12 powers the complex perpetual calendar, which requires no manual adjustment until the year 2100)

As with all high quality watches, the movement is the all-important foundation. The Caliber 36 in its base form has been around since 2016 and remains in service at the Manufacture for many good reasons. Meeting and exceeding COSC fundamentals with a 6-position adjustment, the caliber radiates classic Germanic watchmaking charm, with concepts of modern high horology in tow to keep things practical. Some of those practical elements include a freely sprung balance wheel with gold regulation screws, a silicon hairspring that is utterly impervious to the effects of magnetism, and a robust 100-hour power reserve, a factor the brand achieves with a single mainspring barrel, by the way. A considered look at the components suggest robustness and sturdy construction, as well as prettiness, but there’s certainly no lack on the latter aspect: bridges shine with nicely laid down Glashütte ribbing (or what the Swiss call “Cotes de Geneve“), the winding wheels display sunburst decor, and the balance cock shows off a distinctive engraving, something of a distinguishing characteristic of many finer German watches. Powering the mainspring barrel with each movement of your wrist is a large centrally mounted rotor that has a heavy 21K gold peripheral mass, elegantly secured to the main body of the component with fire-blued screws. Again, the 36-12 is a great looking movement, but still radiates purposeful construction; you just sort of sense that this is a machine meant to deliver excellent results, despite being very, very easy on the eyes. Stop seconds functionality ensures precise timesetting to a reference signal, a good thing given this watch’s inherent precision capability, and the calendar functions of day, month, leap year cycle, and moonphase can be adjusted with reasonable ease via the traditional inset pushers readily visible on the satin-brushed case flank. The oversized panorama date is both sophisticated and effortless to read, and remains one of those house signatures we’ve come to expect from top-end creations by Glashütte Original.

(An alluring shade of salmon pink is accented by shimmering blue hands and markers. Legibility is superb, despite the purely aesthetic appeal!)

Yet, all of that goodness would matter for little, if it wasn’t presented in an extraordinary manner. The form is familiar and elegant, but the dial absolutely steals the show! Coppery in certain lighting, and salmon pink in others, it immediately reminded me of exquisite high complications in similar shades from some of the most legendary Swiss manufactures, that were often extremely limited in production and typically cased only in platinum. With the Senator, lustrously polished and blued poire-style hands combined with tall, stately Roman numerals to recall the face of classic table clocks. They contrast alluringly against the base dial color, that is further highlighted with a matching blue railroad minute track, brand signatures, and a shimmering metallic moonphase indicator with stars and moon in polished gold. Here, you get the same sense of restrained “special” luxury of those aforementioned Holy Trinity watches, although at a considerably less stratospheric price! This is by every measure a regal watch, of course, but Glashütte Original is known for being a high-end manufacturer that also delivers great value for money. This stunning new reference exemplifies that appreciated quality-price proposition at an suggested retail of USD $20,900 on the strap, or just about a thousand more on the elegant and easily adjustable matching Senator bracelet. For a truly gorgeous, in-house manufactured watch featuring a superbly clear rendition of one of the most prestigious implementations in the classical watchmaking repertoire, and in quite a limited series…well, let’s just say that that MSRP strikes me as a decidedly fair figure, either beyond–but especially within–the surreal market realities of 2021.

Much like the movement inside, the case of the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual watch reflects thoughtful refinement with straightforward robustness. Predominantly brushed for discretion, there are just enough polished bevels here and there to create an appealing light play, without any excess ostentation. That’s probably a good thing, because while this is a beautiful timepiece by any consideration, it certainly isn’t a small one, at 42mm. Still, given the easy presentation of the large dial, the ample diameter of the purpose-built in-house movement powering everything, and the overall sense of serene complexity, that case size seems perfectly natural. This is a surprisingly practical (and affordable, relatively speaking) high complication watch that can be enjoyed both for what it offers technically, and how clearly–and elegantly–it conveys that information to the wearer. This is a relaxed high complication piece that can surely be worn almost anywhere, from casual to formal settings, and back again. We’re it me, I’d spring for the bracelet version, and add the blue alligator strap afterward, giving a rare and lovely timekeeping companion that could do just about everything from casual to formal, all four seasons of the year.

NOMOS Autobahn Director’s Cut: Bright, Fun Limited Edition Watches With A Serious Manufacture Movement

The Autobahn A3 variant, a beauty in brilliant orange and pale blue!

Amidst all the dead-serious technical and artisanal perfection of exquisite Teutonic watch brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Moritz Grossmann, and Lang & Heyne, you have quirky, youthful NOMOS: no less a manufacture than their illustrious fellow Germans, NOMOS brings freshness and sense of fun to all they do, and by all accounts, their fans remain strongly devoted to them for that! The latest release from NOMOS–part of the Autobahn range and powered by the DUW 6101 caliber that’s made, decorated and adjusted in-house by the company–is a limited set of watches in three potent (yet very different) color schemes, each bearing the designation of major freeways in Germany.

(The A9, A7, and A3, respectively. Each will be produced in a series of 175 pieces)

The striking dials, both bold and playful, as well as the so-called racing strap–sort of a stainless steel bracelet interpretation of one of those sporty rally straps with the distinctive perforations–are key elements of this exclusive NOMOS collaboration with designer Werner Aisslinger, who found in the brand an ideal partner to realize his concept for expressing the passion of automobile travel, speed on the motorways, and of course, the all-important relationship of time unifying it all. Looking at it even in the most casual way, these confidently attired Autobahn watches definitely call to mind a speedometer or tachometer gauge in a high-performance car, and, while the time display might remain conventional in terms of its layout and function, it definitely brings a fun and especially dynamic aspect that would keep this watch a superb addition to a collection either focused around sports watches, or simply an easygoing, casual alternative in a more formally biased watch roll, or winder cabinet.

(Textures, contrasts and subtle details abound, rewarding the owner’s closer scrutiny!)

The dials are an enjoyable treat in terms of textures and details, in everything from the deeply sunken seconds subdial and upwards sloping rehaut scale, to the distinctively thinned out minute hand with its luminous tipped point. The presentation is somehow simple yet pleasingly intricate at the same time, yet without any overwhelm or lack of clarity in presenting the important. Overall, I’d say it speaks to the sophistication of a renowned designer working with a brand that has made a name for itself in playing with and refining Bauhaus concepts from the beginning. There’s a lot of apparent joy here, and really, who says Bauhaus needs to be sterile and bland in its pursuit of functional form?

(The DUW 6101 being assembled, with rotor yet to be installed. Note the blued, NOMOS hairspring, part of the brand’sSwing System”)

And nor do the movements need to be. The NOMOS-produced DUW 6101 is both a visual, and mechanical treat, full of details for the connoisseur to appreciate. Broad, evenly applied Glashutte stripes adorn the bridges, with neat (if mechanically applied) bevels on the edges. The meticulously fire-blued screws, a hallmark of NOMOS and many other Glashütte manufactures, shine with a subtle luster against the rhodium finishing on the bridges, and the gilt lettering that shows off the movement’s technical designations and jewel count. Speaking of the technical fine points, this movement is thin at a scant 3.6mm in height, has a date wheel that can, very usefully, be adjusted in either direction at whim, and offers the brand’s patented “Swing System” escapement and blued hairspring, as seen above. NOMOS notes that this caliber has been adjusted in-house to meet or exceed chronometer standards, and as such, it clearly represents some of their most cutting edge developments in a high-performance, modern self-winding movement that should prove reliable for the long term. The power reserve is not particularly lengthy by modern standards, at just 42 hours, but assuming the watch is worn with any regularity, I don’t see it being an issue–and even if it should stop, setting the date and time will be accomplished easily and quickly, thanks to the efficient setting system inherent to the DUW 6101.

It’s pleasing and very cool indeed to see how much variety the NOMOS watch lineup has gained in recent years, growing far beyond such iconic basics as the Tangente and Orion. As the NOMOS model range has grown, so has the family of NOMOS’s in-house produced movements, and all of them on some level or another represent exceptional value for knowledgeable buyers, insomuch as they offer a hell of a lot of horological craftsmanship and exclusivity at a very, very reasonable asking price. Philippe Dufour himself has commented on that, and I think no better endorsement of the NOMOS horological allure can be offered. Strikingly rendered and resplendent with sophisticated design touches, these limited production Autobahn editions in a 41mm case and bold stainless steel bracelet should prove yet another enjoyable option from this plucky–yet clearly accomplished–Glashütte manufacturer.

(A distinctive luminous show keeps the Autobahn fascinating even at night)

Defakto Transit Futur Perfekt V2: A Fun Watch For Lovers Of Legibility And Lume

“Lume, glorious lume!”

In the cosmos of watch brands, not everything is prestige, lofty brand history, and complicated, exquisitely adorned and decorated mechanisms. Sometimes designs from small, lesser known, indeed…young!…brands just jump out at you, and make you smile. Such was immediately the case when I caught wind of the Defakto Transit Futur Perfekt V2 watch you see here. A deft combination of focused Bauhaus sensibility, supreme legibility and an absolutely delightful light show in the form of some glorious lume, this is a simple, time-only watch one could pull out at just about anytime for a refreshing perspective on the oft-unsung joy of presenting information clearly. Just don’t forget your high-powered LED flashlight, because were it me, I’d be hitting the dial with it and finding just about any silly excuse to duck in to dimly lit areas and witness that brightly glowing ruddy orange second hand sweeping over its hour and minute mates in pale blue. (And afterwards: “What damn time was it again??” And, in my nerdy fascination about the lume…I would’ve doubtless already forgotten!)

(Note the nicely executed details on the case and dial, as well as the hands, which are bent at their tips to match the dial curvature)

Defakto is indeed a young brand, founded just thirteen years ago, by Raphael Ickler, who sought to create watches with a clear, focused aesthetic, quality materials, and exceptional value for dollar, or Deutschmark, as the case may be. While a decidedly youthful entrepreneur with a vision all his own, Rafael’s family is not new to the watch business, the Ickler company heading a dependable and well-regarded manufacturer of quality watch cases and other accessories from the mid-1920s onward. “German Made Puristic Watches” is right on the homepage, and there you have it right from the source! A perusal of the Pforzheim-based brand’s website reveals a very appealing range of watches that have a distinctive character that stand out from the crowd, yet all do so in a discreet, yet uniquely confident way. That’s a hard line to walk, but Defakto seems to keenly understand the tempo and distance of the strides needed to make their mark in a crowded and often imitative industry.

(The Transit Futur Perfekt V2 by daylight–the sunburst dial is unique to this model)

The watch under contemplation this day is not entirely new. It’s based on a model, the Transit Standard, which celebrated the 10th anniversary of the brand, and earned a top prize from the German Design Award committee in 2020. Like the Standard model, the Futur Perfekt V2 has a subtly contrasted, brushed case measuring 40mm from side-to-side, 44mm from lug to lug, and just 9.8mm in height. The eagle-eyed and refined of touch will note the presence of multiple directional finishes on the case and lugs, yet all of this is contained within the extremely modest context of a brushed theme. For those disinclined for any ostentation, I can’t really think of a more appealing presentation, and it totally works with the stunning sunburst dial, leaving that element to do the coloratura singing. Regarding that, this is where the V2 really stands out from its award winning fundamental: it shows off a radial sunburst pattern that gives the otherwise somewhat spartan and very stark dial a totally different level of spice! Not that the standard matte model was lacking in any way, but this metallic sunburst has a level of sophistication that sets it apart, giving it a quality that is decidedly less tool-like, and almost verging upon…formal. To be sure, a dress watch this isn’t, but with the reasonable dimensions, and subtle light play of the dial texture, you have a watch that can effortlessly transition from less to more casual situations with exceptional ease. The matte black calfskin strap certainly works here, but this is a watch that will surely beg for some strap experimentation from its owner. And on that point, the fact that Defakto opted for the near-universal 20mm lug spacing again shows great intelligence and foresight in letting customers play and enjoy. Bravo, Defakto!

And how about the movement? Well, for just over 1,000 Euros, you won’t be receiving a caliber worthy of Philippe Dufour (or Patek Philippe, even). What you will get, however, is a tried and tested friend, the stalwart ETA 2824–a long-produced and dependable “tracteur“. This legendary workhorse movement has been used to power countless excellent watches over the decades, from vintage Tudor Submariners, to higher-end pieces by independent watchmakers who have used modified versions to power an array of complex modules, and plenty in between. Reliable and usefully precise, the ETA 2824’s long production run assures that spare parts will be plentiful for many years to come, and your local, reputable watchmaker will be comfortable to service and care for it. That in turn means you can focus on the wearing enjoyment of this beautiful, versatile, and conversation worthy German watch. Don’t wait too long to put your order in, though–Defakto will be offering just thirty pieces of the Futur Perfekt V2, with ten percent of the sales proceeds going to the Doctors Without Borders organization.

(Movements can be pretty, but functionality, reliability and serviceability is a must. The ETA 2824 is a champion there.)

A. Lange & Sohne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst: The Spectacular Return Of Germany’s Most Glamorous Rectangular Watch


With every bit of regrettable news, a brighter update can often emerge to save the day. In the case of A. Lange & Sohne’s beautiful rectangular watch, the Cabaret, “the show” came to an end some time ago. This model loss in the Lange catalog always seemed a shame to me, however understandable it may have been from a business perspective. Rectangular watches, after all, are a rare, if less appreciated breed in modern times–but this one was stunning. The glamorous Cabaret bucked the trend of round watches both within and beyond Lange’s outstanding catalog, and was a daring, dashing, and provocative challenger against established offerings from revered Swiss watchmaking houses like Jaeger-LeCoultre with the Reverso, and exceptional houses of jewelry who also happened to make fine watches, such as Cartier and their iconic Tank. But alas, the Cabaret, despite gaining a few acclaimed variants like a beautiful Moonphase iteration, proved a slow seller in the original Lange lineup, and was dropped in favor of continued development on the 1815, Lange 1, Datograph, and other hard hitting model families.

Still, before the final curtain, Lange brought out its ultimate Cabaret iteration–one fitted with an exceptional tourbillon caliber in 2008, and this watch continued in production for five years. Fast forward to 2021, and the Cabaret Tourbillon is back, and what a reissue it is! A. Lange & Sohne applies the Handwerkskunst designation to a tiny handful of models for very limited production, that showcase the absolute highest, no holds barred, levels of craftsmanship the brand is capable of. Of course, every A. Lange watch is a masterpiece of watchmaking and craft, but these special models take things even further, and this Cabaret Tourbillon lives up to every expectation one might have of something like this…as if the original model wasn’t impressive enough.

Starting with the 26.5mm wide by x 39.2mm tall platinum case, we have a very exclusive material, and it suits the dial materials and artistry very well, as we’ll explore in a moment. The Cabaret case has always been an extremely intricate iteration of the square/rectangle form, with its stepped bezel and subtle yet strong lugs that flare every so slightly away from the contrastingly brushed caseband. This is not a case for mass production, and handling one, or even seeing a good quality image, should tell you that the creation process is, and was, very costly. The dial, with its muted silver and grey tones, to say nothing of delectable texture and depth, is where our mouths begin to fall open a little bit, because there is a lot going on there—all very simply and elegantly of course–and we must take a deeper dive to understand just how much handcraft is needed to create this playing field of finely measured time.

A. Lange & Sohne artisans begin with a dial base of white gold, the center of which is entirely carved out by hand with an interlocking series of lozenge (or diamond shaped, if you prefer) motifs, a task which as you may imagine, involves an extraordinarily trained and unhurried engraver’s hand. Additional tasks the engraver also has to achieve here on the Cabaret Tourbillon include a tremblage section around the tiny periphery of the diamond-within-diamond section, and a grained pattern on the black rhodiumized outer area in which the gold Roman numerals are applied. Let’s backtrack to that tremblage aspect again, just to focus on one technique here, and what difficulty it entails: the engraver, armed with a burin tool, must impress tiny interconnecting dots, not too deep, yet just enough, so as to create a fine stippled texture. Needless to say, a person not possessed of patience–extreme patience?–need not apply. Yet, it only gets harder from here, believe it or not!

After accomplishing all this, the skilled hands at Lange must undertake the most hair-raising element of creating these dials: grand feu enameling. Long considered one of the trickiest handcrafts in making exceptional watches, dials in this type of enamel are difficult enough to produce on simpler dials, from application to kiln firing, all the while hoping the translucence and evenness holds up and survives the literal trial of fire without any cracks. Speaking of those, the odds of cracking are much higher on a dial like this, due to the intricate metal structures around the apertures (for the date windows, tourbillon cage, and second hand and power reserve subdials), which place heightened stress on the already fragile, thin enamel. These tricky obstacles resulted in approximately half of these Cabaret dials requiring things to start from scratch, all over again. Further adding to the nerve-wracking process was an additional final firing cycle–at a somewhat lower temperature–just to fix the brand signature, in a very specific paint, to the enamel base! It seems the powers that be at A. Lange & Sohne were quite relieved that only thirty had to be completed, and that I can absolutely believe. That said, the result of their labor is indeed amazing and lives up to everything the Handwerkskunst designation promises.

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As expected, the movement is a match to the glorious dial. L042.1 equals and then builds on the excellence of the one powering the original Cabaret Tourbillon. In terms of technical basics–a long 120 hour power reserve (courtesy of two large mainspring barrels), a hand-crafted, hand-regulated one minute tourbillon mounted on diamond endstones in the manner of the finest Saxon watches, and jewels mounted in gold chatons fixed down with fire-blued screws–they are much the same. Yet this watch does offer some additional refinements over its predecessor. For example, the balance wheel contained within the 60 second “whirlwind” is now freely sprung for superior performance, and as an additional point, shows off Lange’s now in-house manufactured balance spring. And, as superlative as the finish of the first rectangular Lange tourbillon caliber was, this one offers some additional flourishes and differentiators: plates are frosted rather than Glashutte ribbed, and the winding wheels have a circular grained finish that differs slightly from the typical sunburst effect seen on other such Lange components. (And may, may I add, holy smokes are those wheels finished impeccably!) Perhaps most distinctively, the cocks supporting the intermediate drive wheel and tourbillon carriage charmingly show off the same–hand engraved, of course!–lozenge motif that the dial does. Art, craft, and history are all seamlessly joined in the Cabaret Handwerkskunst.

Leave it to A. Lange & Sohne to leave our mouths watering once again. As mentioned, there won’t–and really, can’t–be too many of these. For the thirty who are fortunate enough, the necessarily steep €315,200 asking price for this extraordinary Lange Cabaret is surely just a formality.

Glashutte Original Senator Sixties Chronograph Stuns In Limited Edition Green For 2021

Glashutte Original is not only a staple of German fine watchmaking, they are a house of surprising versatility as far as collections and themes go. From the highest complications like tourbillons and complex chronograph variants in classic forms, to horologically sophisticated observatory chronometer pieces, pilot’s watches and divers with sporty attitude, this flexibility of offerings has positioned GO as somewhat more audacious alternative to A. Lange & Sohne, as well as a significantly better price proposition (with surprisingly close parity in craftsmanship) than their prestigious neighbor.

The Sixties collection has always been appealing to me, having that classic round dress watch appearance that can absolutely work with suited attire, yet true to its decade namesake, has a free spirited way about it and a aesthetic approach of elegance that lives by its own code–meaning you can dress it down, too. Basically, these watches look great with anything and have a heritage that is clear, drawing from the brand’s Spezimatic model range that were retailed during the 1960s. The curved sapphire crystals and domed sapphire caseback create interesting optical effects and are a hallmark of the modern Senator Sixties line, distinguishing them from the likely competition. As the collection has grown in popularity, Glashutte has produced some models with extra pizazz in limited editions, the latest of which you see here.

Green is in in a major way with luxury watches as of the moment, but few nail the mystique of the color like this one. The degrade dial, with shading going from vibrant peacock green to darker forest green at the dial edge is given an extra pop thanks to a texture that is reminiscent of broken glass shards or moving ribbons of water. Glashutte Original is absolutely on point with their suede light brown strap pairing, as well, highlighting how much a strap can make the watch. The whole thing is a great ensemble that achieves being classy and funky at the same time, all while being a clear and very readable backdrop for a two counter chronograph. Speaking of that, I particularly enjoy the outspoken small seconds and 30 minutes counters on this watch, and the large dial gives the displays plenty of room to stretch their legs. This is a striking and beautiful, yet easygoing, presentation of a chronograph, and there are many fine details to enjoy, from the elegant pump pushers to minute and chronograph central seconds hands subtly curved at the tips to match the curvature of the dial periphery. The movement ticking inside the Sixties Chronograph is a visually appealing manufacture mechanism produced in house by the brand, yet with its proven Caliber 39 base, offers the robustness a daily watch demands. All things to like! It seems there is no numbered edition in this instance, but Glashutte Original will only be offering this verdant Sixties Chronograph for the remainder of the 2021 year. If the recent–and very strong–trend for green dials resonates with you, definitely don’t miss out on this beautiful watch.

Glashutte Original SeaQ Bi-Color: A Dive Watch Beauty In Blue and Gold

Glashutte Original has done a tremendous job in carving out a name for itself in the higher echelons of German luxury watchmaking in recent years, even acquitting themselves in admirable fashion against fellow Glashutte titan A. Lange & Sohne. There’s a lot of diversity in the GO lineup, and one of my favorite fairly new additions is the SeaQ, which provides a refreshing upmarket and small production alternative to such iconic divers as the Omega Seamaster 300m Diver and the now nearly impossible to get (at list) Rolex Submariner. Of course, one could argue that the Glashutte Original SeaQ’s most direct competition is the uber high luxury divers such as those in Blancpain’s legendary Fifty Fathoms collection and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, pieces which–in similar fashion to the GO–are produced in small to exceedingly small quantities, and showcase movements of high refinement and pedigree. On the other hand, dive watches are a hot category in the luxury watch world, and their fans have many good choices all across the brand and pricing spectrum.

With that point in mind, the question becomes: despite the beauty and exclusivity, why might you choose something like the SeaQ over established dive watch legends from power brands of mass recognition like Omega or Rolex? Well, let’s explore that a little bit! This SeaQ, as with others in the collection is based upon the Spezimatic from 1969, and has an appealing vintage diver vibe which still remains blessedly free from excessive patina stylization. (No complaints here, per se, but there is definitely a lot of “fauxtina” on dive watches of late). At 39.5mm, this German high luxury diver will wear very well in casual or more buttoned down settings, it’s modest height of 12.1mm keeping it a contender for the ever popular “sports watch in a dress watch” role. And this two-tone configuration is simply beautiful, thanks in large part to the resplendent, fresh blue sunburst dial with just enough yellow gold accents on the hands and winding crown to offer maximum contrast and high luxury feel. A choice of a black rubber or blue fabric strap gives two really appealing options for the SeaQ Bi-Color owner, and I’d be hard pressed to choose, honestly. (My heart loves the matching blue strap, but the rubber dive strap is really an instance of “form following function” to its truest, so I’d probably opt for that if pressed. Plus, one can always accessorize with NATO straps later, and those lugs all but beg to be outfitted with some nylon.)

An interesting thing is that Glashutte Original doesn’t equip the standard SeaQ variants with a sapphire back–for that you’d have to venture into the pricier SeaQ Panorama Date models, which are admittedly superb, as well as more complex. One part of me rather regrets that, as the GO Caliber 39-11 is some lovely kit, with a bevy of typical Glashutte decorations, an elegant swan neck fine regulator, and a signed rotor with a peripheral mass in gold. On the other hand, the solid back speaks to the sports watch purist in me, and exudes ultimate strength and durability for what this watch is capable of…even if few owners will take them into the murky depths. Beyond the luxury looks and admittedly fine details of this Glashutte Original diver in steel and 18K gold, we have a very useful, highly legible tool watch–a delicious dichotomy for me, personally. The bezel is deeply knurled, and should be very easy to rotate with or without the aid of gloves, and the overall presentation looks lovely yet somehow unpretentious at the same time, thanks to the clean case lines, and abundance of discreet, yet impeccably executed brushed surfaces. Just enough sparkle here and there lets the luxury out of the proverbial bag, but it’s clearly there if you seek it, and deliciously alluring to the eye.

Basically, this is a top notch choice in a small production, exclusive diver. A fantastic piece for the person who’s bought the expected sports references from Rolex, Omega, or Breitling, and wants something considerably closer to unique, and even more than that, under the radar. In the case of Rolex particularly, daunting multi-year waitlists, rumored AD shenanigans, and grey market pricing at nosebleed levels make a fine watch such as the SeaQ Bi-Color truly tempting indeed. While resale might not compete with the vaunted Rolex sports watches–and really, what exactly can?–the price of this Glashutte Original seems fully justified, and there won’t be any games to get it on your wrist. Once there, this will be a truly exclusive, beautiful, and rugged companion that checks a lot of boxes in a timepiece that deserves to be called a “keeper”.

Why Horologically Happy? What makes us tick?

Hello, my name is Adam Keith, and I’d like to welcome you to my new blog, Horologically Happy. Why happy? Because the history and art of watchmaking have fascinated and given me joy since early childhood, with that fascination continuing on into my teens. Eventually, it brought opportunities to work within the industry itself, where I was able to experience some of the finest creations of truly legendary brands and even better, able to interact and share passion with customers, collectors, and admirers of horology from all walks of life. Other life changes took me in different directions after 2012, but I’m beyond pleased to be back and writing on this beloved topic once again. I’m looking forward to seeing what develops as the blog (and hopefully more) moves forward, but everything from here forward stems from a desire to share the joy of watches with readers and guests, finding kindred spirits and even friends along the way.

I feel that watches are a tremendous source of beauty, calm, and reflection. Just putting a fine watch to the ear and hearing the soft ticking of the escapement can be a blessed escape, as I’m sure more than a few of you can appreciate! And of course, it’s far more than just the watches themselves, but the stories of the watchmakers both independent and illustrious and those who toil quietly behind the scenes to produce their craft for brands which have come, gone, and maybe even come again, to say nothing of how these stories have influenced culture. In a troubled world, these beautiful little machines have always given me something to focus upon, and while I’ve owned, as well as traded and sold my share of pieces over the years, the greatest joy comes in the learning and appreciating, and taking the time to contemplate what each watch can teach. I’d like to use this blog format for that as time goes on, eventually adding videos and other formats for communication, so let’s have some fun discussing watches and see where it goes!

I hope you’ll join me in appreciating the whimsy and beauty of watches as we move forward into 2021 and beyond, perhaps sharing your own thoughts and inviting friends who also share similar passions for watches, watch collecting, and just the simple appreciation of horology and all that goes with it. I will certainly try to cover new and emerging watches as they appear, but I also plan to freely discuss pieces which have been around for a good while, and are simply worth discussing because of the merits they possess, and their importance to the community. And of course, I would love suggestions and feedback, so please reach out if you would enjoy doing so. Because we’re human, it’s only natural to discuss prices sometimes and maybe poke fun of the inevitable industry hype, but the underlying theme that I’d like to animate things here from the go-forward is a simple appreciation for the aesthetic qualities, mechanical ingenuity, and design of all things watches. Because it is these things…which keep us happy, not just in collecting watches, but Life at large!

To your Happiness,

Adam