Amidst all the dead-serious technical and artisanal perfection of exquisite Teutonic watch brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Moritz Grossmann, and Lang & Heyne, you have quirky, youthful NOMOS: no less a manufacture than their illustrious fellow Germans, NOMOS brings freshness and sense of fun to all they do, and by all accounts, their fans remain strongly devoted to them for that! The latest release from NOMOS–part of the Autobahn range and powered by the DUW 6101 caliber that’s made, decorated and adjusted in-house by the company–is a limited set of watches in three potent (yet very different) color schemes, each bearing the designation of major freeways in Germany.
The striking dials, both bold and playful, as well as the so-called racing strap–sort of a stainless steel bracelet interpretation of one of those sporty rally straps with the distinctive perforations–are key elements of this exclusive NOMOS collaboration with designer Werner Aisslinger, who found in the brand an ideal partner to realize his concept for expressing the passion of automobile travel, speed on the motorways, and of course, the all-important relationship of time unifying it all. Looking at it even in the most casual way, these confidently attired Autobahn watches definitely call to mind a speedometer or tachometer gauge in a high-performance car, and, while the time display might remain conventional in terms of its layout and function, it definitely brings a fun and especially dynamic aspect that would keep this watch a superb addition to a collection either focused around sports watches, or simply an easygoing, casual alternative in a more formally biased watch roll, or winder cabinet.
The dials are an enjoyable treat in terms of textures and details, in everything from the deeply sunken seconds subdial and upwards sloping rehaut scale, to the distinctively thinned out minute hand with its luminous tipped point. The presentation is somehow simple yet pleasingly intricate at the same time, yet without any overwhelm or lack of clarity in presenting the important. Overall, I’d say it speaks to the sophistication of a renowned designer working with a brand that has made a name for itself in playing with and refining Bauhaus concepts from the beginning. There’s a lot of apparent joy here, and really, who says Bauhaus needs to be sterile and bland in its pursuit of functional form?
And nor do the movements need to be. The NOMOS-produced DUW 6101 is both a visual, and mechanical treat, full of details for the connoisseur to appreciate. Broad, evenly applied Glashutte stripes adorn the bridges, with neat (if mechanically applied) bevels on the edges. The meticulously fire-blued screws, a hallmark of NOMOS and many other Glashütte manufactures, shine with a subtle luster against the rhodium finishing on the bridges, and the gilt lettering that shows off the movement’s technical designations and jewel count. Speaking of the technical fine points, this movement is thin at a scant 3.6mm in height, has a date wheel that can, very usefully, be adjusted in either direction at whim, and offers the brand’s patented “Swing System” escapement and blued hairspring, as seen above. NOMOS notes that this caliber has been adjusted in-house to meet or exceed chronometer standards, and as such, it clearly represents some of their most cutting edge developments in a high-performance, modern self-winding movement that should prove reliable for the long term. The power reserve is not particularly lengthy by modern standards, at just 42 hours, but assuming the watch is worn with any regularity, I don’t see it being an issue–and even if it should stop, setting the date and time will be accomplished easily and quickly, thanks to the efficient setting system inherent to the DUW 6101.
It’s pleasing and very cool indeed to see how much variety the NOMOS watch lineup has gained in recent years, growing far beyond such iconic basics as the Tangente and Orion. As the NOMOS model range has grown, so has the family of NOMOS’s in-house produced movements, and all of them on some level or another represent exceptional value for knowledgeable buyers, insomuch as they offer a hell of a lot of horological craftsmanship and exclusivity at a very, very reasonable asking price. Philippe Dufour himself has commented on that, and I think no better endorsement of the NOMOS horological allure can be offered. Strikingly rendered and resplendent with sophisticated design touches, these limited production Autobahn editions in a 41mm case and bold stainless steel bracelet should prove yet another enjoyable option from this plucky–yet clearly accomplished–Glashütte manufacturer.
