Chopard may be known to many for its exceptional jewelry, but for a good many years now, they’ve shown perhaps even more initiative as a serious–no make that very serious–manufacture of exceptional high horology. While I’ve covered some of their work before, it is a brand, an independent, family-owned brand no less, that deserves to get the spotlight more than it does, because in the modern era, they produce products that rival the finest quality of “Holy Trinity” (AP, PP & VC) watches from the Golden Era of watchmaking. I daresay the Manufacture Chopard even comes surprisingly close to the greatest of independents today, in terms of both mechanical ingenuity and, in a point particularly close to my heart, artisanal movement finishing. Few watches ever exemplified this more than the watch that sort of started it all for the modern Chopard brand, the L.U.C 1860 which emerged in 1997 and very quickly proceeded to blow the collective socks off of watch aficionados who probably weren’t expecting to find such exquisite Geneva Hallmark-signed horological mastery from a company best known for high-end jewelry and cute ladies watches with floating diamonds. To this day, the L.U.C 1860 remains a modern icon in truly fine watchmaking, and it was the watch that first made me fall head over heels in love with the brand. Now, after Watches and Wonders 2023, we can draw those admiring sighs again, as the classic is back…and even better than ever.
Like the original L.U.C 1860, the 2023 model has a 36.5mm diameter case, although this time fashioned from Lucent steel, a recycled alloy the brand has made of use of before, and continues to tout for it’s reduced environmental impact in terms of production, as well as a particularly luminous sheen. Be that as the last claim may or may not be, Chopard certainly understands the ins and outs of exceptional case finishing, both from its background as a jeweler and watchmaker, and this classic case design sets a particularly pleasing middle point between dressiness and daily versatility with a smart combination of polished and brushed surfaces. The dial, however, just about makes one melt. As with the original 1860, the new model in Lucent steel displays a beautiful arrangement of guilloche patterns, and the warm coppery glow of the metallic salmon dial suggests something exclusive yet remarkably inviting, visually—appearing as well attired for dress as it would for far more day to day settings. And for me, the cherry atop it all is the blessed lack of a calendar display, something the original models offered without exception, and I slightly lamented, my love for the aesthetics and quality of the L.U.C 1860 notwithstanding. Of course a date is “practical” but for a watch this perfectly designed, aesthetics were paramount, and always have been; I’d no more want a date on this watch than I would a Dufour Simplicity (if such a thing existed, perish the thought!). That said, the fact that this fetchingly wrought dial sprang from a common producer (Metalem) shared by both the famous independent watchmaker and Manufacture Chopard just makes the newly introduced time only variant that much more a treasure to cherish. In many ways, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 is as close as one might get to an automatic version of the Dufour Simplicity, and it conceptually shares–even more so now with this revised model–a surprising degree of similarity to that greatest of independently-crafted masterpieces. A few may whinge about the “small” case diameter, but for me the 36mm is a perfect delivery for the message of elegance, focused classical beauty, and purity of watchmaking distilled to the absolute. How fortunate that trends seem to be favoring more modest diameters anyway, but even without that factor, I’m grateful the L.U.C 1860s classical proportion has remained unchanged. The 8.2mm thickness of the watch is a delight too, in an age awash with chunky divers and other sports watches that could give hockey pucks a fair run for their money. There is a time and place for that of course, but not in something with a soul like this.
There are few movements created—ever–with the finish quality, proportional elegance, and no corners cut approach of Chopard’s in-house L.U.C 1.96. The only manufactured movements I can think that would equal, or possibly exceed it, might be the Patek Philippe automatics of the 1950s and 1960s, but even then, that’s splitting hairs. The L.U.C 1.96 Caliber is that good. One needs just look at the perfection in the hand-laid Cotes de Geneve, the immaculate hand-applied anglage on the sensually curved bridges, the sensually arched steel swan’s neck regulator adjoining the freely-sprung Breguet overcoil balance wheel, and the richly adorned 22K microrotor feeding the twin, stacked mainspring barrels that lie adjacent it to realize this watch is one serious piece for a connoisseur who truly knows his or her watches, and deeply appreciates watchmaking as both science and art. It features the same distinctive and efficient pawl-winding system that the original 1.96 did, and now, for the first time also has a hacking seconds function, something that is most welcome indeed, given the precision promise of the COSC chronometer certification. That it bears both a Poincon de Geneve stamp, attesting to its impeccable workmanship in the best Genevan norms, and that chronometer certificate, is more of a formality after looking at the uncompromising build of this caliber. Yet, that dual accolade places this caliber in a very elite category of movements, right up there with the ultra rare tourbillon models (such as the Ref 3939) from Patek Philippe. And better yet, this ticking supermodel sits perfectly within that beautifully proportioned case, waiting to greet you each time you take the watch off–yet can’t but fail to turn it over to enjoy this view for a minute, or maybe several. A jeweler’s loupe will definitely be something you’ll want , if you don’t have one already, but the quality certainly radiates through without the aid of any magnification. The final impression of this movement is always that of a movement for watch lovers, by a company who loves watchmaking. The Scheufele family have certainly demonstrated their dedication to this increasingly rare category of very special luxury watches, and the fact that the L.U.C line is so broad ensures that there is really something for everyone.
At least in theory, anyway! While this perfected resurrection of the fabled original L.U.C masterpiece won’t be a limited edition, the quantities produced annually will be very small, in the less than couple dozen range, and available exclusively through Chopard boutiques. According to a recent, refreshingly candid interview by Revolution Magazine, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele himself is on a waiting list for an 1860 in Lucent Steel, which should tell you something! While I expect the family-owned brand’s president won’t have to wait as long as other clients, it definitely hints at the nostalgia and puristic pride behind this outwardly humble yet inwardly remarkable watch, which will remain a sort of shared secret handshake among the super-cognoscenti. The $23,200 pricing, while no outright bargain, as luxury watches go is quite fair given the remarkable movement and historic importance of this classic, and well in line for value–or better–than anything competitive. Even against its likely challengers from the most celebrated names, some of which cost notably more, the L.U.C 1860 in its fresh Lucent Steel guise, could very well be Primus inter pares.
