Anyone who knows me, or has spent time chatting about brands which are my favorites and the “why’s” of that, know that I’ve long been an admirer of the manufacture timepieces produced by Chopard under their Louis-Ulysse Chopard (L.U.C) banner. Since the early days of the L.U.C caliber 1.96, hallmarked with the Geneva Seal and finished in absolutely breathtaking fashion inside an out, these Chopard watches were a delightfully under-the-radar answer for the collector demanding vintage Patek Philippe level finishing but with the convenience of a modern piece, and with a slightly saucier attitude.
With that said, one of Chopard’s most ravishing haute horlogerie introductions of recent note is this Perpetual Calendar Chrono in a new titanium variant. It’s big–ok, very big, at 45mm, sharing dimensions from an earlier version of the model in 18K gold. That said, the Grade 5 titanium case, finished as you’d expect the jewelers from the house of Chopard to do, should keep the weight pretty feathery on the wrist, and quite comfortable for many wearers. The dial harkens back to early iterations of L.U.C timepieces, dispensing with the rather Baroque roman numerals that this line often has, and getting back to the faceted dagger shaped batons with a doubled index at 12. And how about the dial? I think it’s stunning, however easy to read it is really not. Everything is shifted to the center, with the large case diameter, with chronograph indications sort of jammed in amidst the various indications for the perpetual calendar, including a nearly vestigial leap year and day/night indicator. It can be deciphered, but reading glasses or maybe even a loupe will definitely be a welcomed aid for many. Then again, is immediate sports watch worthy reading of every function really the reason for this watch’s existence? I think not, and suspect you’ll get lost for many a minute in the beautiful gold dial with it’s radiating line pattern, and that ravishing orbital moon phase indication…to my mind, on of the most sublime in the business. What’s more, the function one will surely use the most–the large date–is easily ascertained at front and center, and the long, modified dauphine hands have plenty of lume to be visible at just about any time.
Turning the Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono over reveals why Chopard gets the love it does from the passionate collector set. As finely rendered as any modern Patek, Vacheron (or dare I say it, Lange??), the L.U.C 03.10-L has over 450 components, among them a flyback chronograph featuring both column wheel and vertical clutch for both refined feel, and easy, low-friction use as a functional complication. The view is absolutely stunning, and a feast of details abound, including the finest in hand-laid Cotes de Geneve, anglage polishing, and various sizes of perlage in the tightest and most pearlescent of patterns. As with Lange, the bridges are rendered in German silver (or “maillechort”) for a distinctly warm glow that rhodiumized bridges simply don’t have. To say that this movement proudly wears its Poincon de Geneve hallmark goes without saying, and few modern movements wear it more justifiably. It’s gorgeous. If any nits could be picked here, it could really only be that the movement looks a bit lost inside the large case, but the outer ring it has to compensate for that is quite attractive in its own right, and…we accept the reality of why it is there. Would it be nice to see a smaller version at some point? Sure, although I’m not sure how well the displays would play given how much is already going on.
At the end of the day, Chopard has produced another true in-house beauty following upon an already outstanding collection, and the few minor akward points about this piece pale in comparison to the total package represented. Just 20 of these gorgeous pieces will be made, and EUR 74,500 is the asking price. Seems…fair, somehow. 🙂