Colors are big passion items in the world of luxury watches, more specifically the world of watch dials. Metallic greens, the famous (or perhaps even infamous) “Tiffany blue”, yellows, purples, and other vibrant tones have created a huge excitement around references from the most beloved–and at times overplayed–brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, as well as plenty of others. TAG Heuer is no stranger to the game, and is clearly committed to not being forgotten where such audacity is concerned. One of their most recent hat tosses into the ring of conspicuously colored timepieces is this particularly luscious red dial for the iconic and faithfully retro 39mm Carrera Chronograph. While the Carrera red dial variant will be a scarce commodity due to its limited edition status of 600 pieces, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate all that this classically handsome–and all in all, quite reasonably priced–Swiss chronograph offers.
There is a lot to love about this watch. While cases sizes, and fashion trends around that fabled ideal for whatever kind of timepiece is under discussion (dress watch, dive watch, etc…and lets not even get into “appropriate” sizes for ladies and men!) fluctuate more than the prices of cryptocurrencies, it’s very hard to argue with a watch in the 38-40mm range as anything less than ideal when considering The Whole. In fact, if there’s been one constant in the years I’ve followed the luxury watch scene is that a timepiece in that range is about as close to mythical perfection as there is. And on a personal level, I can’t really disagree: indeed, a watch in this range straddles a nuanced line between the dress and sports watch with aplomb and works well for slender as well as decidedly girthier wrists, and a range of statures. At 39mm, the Carrera Chronograph Red is bang on that bullseye, and possesses all the versatility this seemingly optimal size envelope commands. At 14.7mm thick, it isn’t exactly a ultraplate dress watch, but given that it possesses a keenly engineered integrated chronograph movement, it’s not a bloated hockey puck either; weighed against the 39mm case diameter, the case thickness creates a sense of harmony and proportion, that ideally suit a watch that can go zany-dressy, or casual chic with effortless charm. While no watch will probably ever dethrone the Omega Speedmaster Professional as the strap whore of all time, this ticking red light district by TAG Heuer will certainly give it a run for its money. And of course, I mean this in the most respectful way possible! The power of a strap to transform a watch’s character and presence is not to be underestimated, and the Heuer Carrera and its descendants are among the best of the breed. Dress, casual, and everything in between: this is a wrist chronograph that can become what you require, and regardless of material, color, stitching, or other variables, the end result can bewitch….all ruled over by the ruby red dial with its achingly beautiful and uncluttered, early 1960s aesthetic. Just using the word “ruby” reminds me of a famous set of slippers from a legendary Hollywood production, and indeed, the color here is not far off from that seen on Dorothy’s magical kicks! The adventures the Heuer Carrera red dial reminds us of, however, are found less inside a vortex spawned by witchcraft, but a specialized ring of asphalt engineered for high speed pursuits.
What do I mean? Well, the descendants of this Carrera chronograph were the brainchild of Jack Heuer, and these watches were one of the ultimate creations of their day, a time that auto racing was, shall we say, really taking off, and chronograph watches were in increasingly fevered demand by everyone from the average weekend hobbyist, through the hardcore Hollywood racers like Paul Newman and Steve McQueen, and up to true race car drivers by profession. This clearly legible chronograph wristwatch carries on that legacy, with an enduring tricompax layout, the 30-minute and 12-hour counters horizontally arranged to be distinct from the continuous small seconds subdial. Beyond the luscious coloration, it’s hard not to enjoy the finely engraved little rings on the subdials, the finely polished facets on the hour markers and hands, and the sloped rehaut that, to me at any rate, rather recalls the old “banked” racing tracks of the early 20th century, a time when the thrills of great speed in an automobile were intoxicating for their novelty, but due to few safety limitations, exceedingly risky to life and limb for those who dared! The creamy luminous material applied to the hands has a distinctly yellowish hue, which will please some and annoy others. I feel the aged lume effect worked a bit better on certain other versions of the Carrera (such as an older silver dialed option, where it created a nice contrast) but the ecru is hardly worth any serious objection, and the thin strips in no way overpower the total effect. Instead, we fixate on that beautiful dial, and the charming visual distortions the boxed sapphire crystal creates with any shift of the wrist, or a change in lighting. This is a classic chronograph, and will be appreciated as such, all the more so because “TAG” has been omitted from the dial signature, a respectful nod to the days when the mighty Heuer reigned supreme as a notable producer of Swiss chronographs, minus the additives of an acquiring company who’s vision–while valuable in its own right–represented vastly different values than those of the “early years” from whence Heuer brought forth its wares. Still, we have to respect what TAG has brought to the game, including their movement manufacturing might, so let’s cut right to that…
The TAG Heuer Caliber HEUER02 movement appearing through the sapphire screw-in caseback may not be of A. Lange & Sohne level artwork, but it combines technical prowess and manufacturing precision admirably. Vertical clutch for efficient gear meshing and stutter-free operation of the chronograph central seconds hand? Check. Integrated rather than modular chronograph construction? Yep. Connoisseur-desired column wheel switching? You got it! Modern self-winding efficiency and an impressive power reserve expected in a current production caliber? Yes indeed, the latter topping out at a full 80 hours, which should give this ample running time to be a solid rotation if you have a collection of watches that need shared wrist-time through the week. The decoration, such as the Cotes de Geneve on the bridges and heavily cut-out rotor are machine applied but very neat, and project a sportive flair, that aspect being further enhanced by the bright red column-wheel and the matching caliber markings on the rotor. The movement is rather like a high performance car engine that has been engineered for performance above all else, but still gives the intrepid pilot a mighty fine show through a glass engine cover.
At the end of the day, this is one of those refreshing watches that satisfies all our urges for past glories from “Watchmaking’s Golden Age”, yet doesn’t sacrifice mechanical excellence solely for the mere appearance of a nostalgic comfort. Here, in a perfectly sized chronograph with a historic model lineage, we don’t get yet another ETA or Sellita-based modular rehash (the functional capability of those solutions notwithstanding)…but instead, a manufacture exclusive, integrated column wheel caliber with vertical clutch and a generous power reserve. And, with the Carrera’s 100 meters of guranteed water resistance, that refined engine is also quite well protected, something you don’t always get with a chronograph timepiece, especially one so classically attired.
Perhaps best of all, the entirety of this vintage-inspired goodness comes at a pretty reasonable asking price of $6,750! The TAG Heuer Carrera Red is a refreshing example of a watch that one can get excited about on multiple levels, and the solid value proposition keeps it honest, as such things go. Even those blissfully go-lucky souls who demand style above all else, generally unconcerned with the inner workings, will be left with no want, as this is a sensual and beautiful to behold watch, its dial merely frosting on a very handsomely ribboned package: from the powerful angled lug tips, to the graceful and piston-like pump pushers that brings the stopwatch function to life, pause, and back again, the Heuer Carrera red dial limited edition is the sort of graceful yet saucy companion that could be buckled on the wrist via its deployant clasp, and leave the wearer very content with only it along for Life’s fast ride. (But, perish that thought, naturally!)
