As heir to the throne of vintage Fifty Fathoms divers–the watch which actually beat the vaunted Rolex Submariner to the punch in defining what we what we now take for granted as a dive watch–the modern Ref 5015 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has earned its laurel as the archetypal modern Blancpain luxury sports watch. That being said, I absolutely adore its slightly smaller, and less celebrated familial offshoot, the more subtle (and easier to wear) 43mm Bathyscaphe. So much so, that one is on my wrist as I write this, and I can say without a shadow of a doubt that the full-size Bathyscaphe has earned its place as among the most comprehensively satisfying watches I’ve had the opportunity to own and enjoy in well over a decade. Probably the only meaningful nit that I can pick with it is the oddball 23mm lug spacing, but I’ll gripe more about that later, after dishing out heaping quantities of effusive praise.
A study in subtlety, might be the best way to describe it. Toolish and somewhat stark on the outside, yet beautifully refined on the inside with its 5-day automatic caliber and gradient sunburst dial that sparkles with polished white gold accents, the modern Bathyscaphe in any of its guises is a multifaceted timepiece that rewards an owner most at close inspection. At the same time, it keeps its high horology secrets discreetly concealed from the public eye, in the way that only a true Watch Idiot Savant favorite can. No wilting violet despite its savoir faire credentials, the Bathyscaphe, like its 45mm brother is ISO 6425 certified and happily pressure-tight 300 meters below the water’s surface…a depth far greater than most humans can survive at, let alone functionally utilize, its luminous hands and bezel pearl brightly shining all the while. Tool and high watchmaking jewel all in one, I adore the Bathyscaphe for its surprising versatility, refined craftsmanship, and brute capability. Many watches offer these qualities to some degree or another, but few put them together in as interesting and enjoyably cohesive–dare I say useful?–a package as this one does.
Still, with modern-day Blancpain being part of the Swatch Group complex of brands, there have been a plethora of additions and special variants, some with exotic cases in materials like ceramic or titanium, and others with special dial colors or lack of date display–such as the fabulous green Mokarran, a beloved favorite for fans of Blancpain and dive watches alike. The watch here is but another stunning addition to the family, and is being produced in conjunction with the prestigious European retailer Bucherer, for a run of just 188 pieces to be offered exclusively via the retailer’s boutiques. To be clear, this isn’t the first Blancpain diver to be offered in partnership with Bucherer, nor even the first Bathyscaphe: in 2018, a similarly azure variant of the technically brilliant Bathyscaphe Chronograph saw introduction, going so far as to feature a case manufactured from blue ceramic. This time, we get back to basics, and the result is no less superb–the epitome of a high luxury tool watch, with a little something extra special thrown in for good measure.
The case is familiar, at the standard 43mm, but is offered in black ceramic as have been certain iterations in the past. Due to that exotic and extraordinarily hard material, you can expect a watch that is essentially immune to scratches, but does carry the decided risk of chipping or shattering if dropped or impacted severely. That said, with a modicum of care, that should be easy to avoid. What is new, for this model, is an absolutely ravishing blue dial that is a sybaritic joy of contrasts and textures. Not only does this version show off the radiant and sublimely variant sunburst of other members of the family, it also shows off a contrastingly-grained section at the dial’s edge where the hour markers reside: to me, the effect recalls, ever so slightly, some of the classic “pie pan” type dials seen in certain vintage watches, while giving a new and even more complex dimension to the radiant light play already on display. Like many, I’m a sucker for a beautiful sunburst dial, and while a few companies do an exceptional job of producing them (Rolex would certainly come to mind here), I don’t think anyone does it any better than Blancpain, and the ample open space on this reference offers an expanse of serenity to amplify the effect. Fine details abound, as we’ve come to expect from any Blancpain watch: the distinctive block hands with their delightfully fine and elegantly curved syringe tips are made from highly polished white gold and catch the light with every turn of the wrist or shift of a light source. Yet, they–like the dial–are in no way garish or a detraction to timekeeping functionality. The luminous plots on the hands are huge and make reading the time effortless whenever you deign to look. Hit those hands with even a short exposure to a bright light source, and they all but explode with a brilliant glow that lasts well through the night. Keeping the chromatic theme consistent is a lustrous blue ceramic bezel insert, created using the innovative and high tech “Liquid Metal” amorphous metal bonding technique developed by the Swatch Group, and familiar from some of the top-range dive watches from Swatch Group sibling Omega.
The movement remains the richly crafted and time-proven Blancpain 1315 caliber, a caliber that has seen service in the 43mm Bathyscaphe and 45mm Fifty Fathoms for quite some years now. For those not familiar with it, this movement was developed from the ground up by Blancpain in conjunction with the firm’s movement manufacturer Frederic Piguet. It offers both the high-end finish and constructive quality and materials expected of a movement in the haute de gamme category, and the toughness and reliability of a workhorse-type tracteur, along with a very impressive 5 day power reserve courtesy of three mainspring barrels, and a freely sprung balance with magnetism-foiling silicon hairspring for superior timekeeping stability. Few movements anywhere in the industry offer such an impressive combination of luxury, innovation and durability. In my own experience, the 1315 has delivered all promised, being both extremely resilient, and very precise in terms of daily rate. It’s also beautiful to behold, with some of the richest bridge bevels you can hope to find, lovely sunburst textures on the winding wheels, and opulently large jewels set in polished countersinks on the spiral decorated bridges; if you seek out a disassembly pictorial of the caliber (such as this one from the esteemed Peter Speake-Marin) the fine finishing extends to areas of the mechanism only the watchmaker will see. In the Bucherer edition, you get another special aesthetic touch: here, the 18K gold winding rotor, showing off the same lovely bevels and textures as the base model, offers the Blancpain insignia in conjunction with that of the retailer’s, highlighted against a signature blue motif which unifies the theme of blue, and with it, the ocean conservation programs Blancpain remains actively involved in funding.
Each of the 188 Bucherer Blue Bathyscaphes will be individually numbered on the edge of the caseback. A fabric strap, slightly different than the meticulously crafted NATO type strap, or sailcloth option, that normally graces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe completes the watch. And on that note, we return one final time to what is probably my only real complaint with both the modern Fifty Fathoms and Bathyscaphe collections: the full-sized watches have a 23mm lug spacing, and if you ever try to source 23mm straps…you’ll quickly realize its very much an uphill battle. Yes, one can make do with squeezing a 24mm in (which looks ok but not perfectly tailored) or deal with an unsightly, sloppy gap by going to a 22mm, but that really shouldn’t be necessary with a watch that is such an absolutely glorious “strap monster” in every other respect. I know, I know…the brand offers a few very nicely designed (and expensive) options in NATO or sailcloth, but if the 43mm Bathyscaphe had a lug width just one millimeter narrower, a whole universe of aftermarket straps would open up for owners of these watches, and make this often overlooked, but truly fabulous high-end diver, a force to be reckoned with against just about anything out there. “Blancpain, hear the collective prayers of your Fifty Fathoms faithful, please!” Be that as it may, this is still a damned fine example of Blancpain’s virtues as a house of horology, and at a suggested list USD price of around $17,000, a notable value when shopped against the most vaunted high luxury sports watches from the “Big Three”.
